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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > HELP!! Possible N55 Engine Failure! VIDEO!



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      05-21-2017, 01:38 PM   #23
floydarogers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad E92 View Post
Shop got back to me and told me it's mechanical. They said it's a spun rod bearing. They didn't drop the pan. Still don't know how this is possible. They then told me they removed JB4 because it was making the car have starting problems. They also compression tested the engine. Apparently 2 of the 6 cylinders aren't balanced. I asked why they couldn't just change the rod bearings and they said that the clearance would be too much. I'm sending it to a well known highly respected BMW only shop next week to see what they say. All of this still dosent add up to me.
To change the rod bearings, you have to at least remove the oil pan. But it's not just the bearings: you need to at least re-surface the crankshaft, which means removing the engine. Might as well buy a used engine if that's the case.

Might be broken valves or rocker-arm assembly or camshaft - much easier to repair, but a piston may have been hit, which might affect the bottom end, too.

This is why JB4 and other mods are known as "pay to play".
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      05-21-2017, 01:51 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by floydarogers View Post
To change the rod bearings, you have to at least remove the oil pan. But it's not just the bearings: you need to at least re-surface the crankshaft, which means removing the engine. Might as well buy a used engine if that's the case.

Might be broken valves or rocker-arm assembly or camshaft - much easier to repair, but a piston may have been hit, which might affect the bottom end, too.

This is why JB4 and other mods are known as "pay to play".
Used engine runs for 5.5k and labor is 4k. It's a big expensive job. Wouldn't it be cheaper to just rebuild with new rods new crank and bearings?
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      05-21-2017, 09:51 PM   #25
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Used engine runs for 5.5k and labor is 4k. It's a big expensive job. Wouldn't it be cheaper to just rebuild with new rods new crank and bearings?
In both cases, you will have the $4K labor charge to R&R the motor. Parts, labor, machine shop, etc., you're talking at least another $2K (probably much more.)
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      05-22-2017, 07:38 PM   #26
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Just got quoted 7.2k in labor (45 hours). Thats w/o parts. With parts it's close to 10k. Used engine is the way to go.

I just picked the car up today from the shop who gave the diagnostic and the cars not making the obnoxious loud metal on metal noises as seen in my video. Werid....
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      05-23-2017, 05:47 PM   #27
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That's insane. Chip Foose could build an entire car from scratch in 45 hours.
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      05-23-2017, 06:05 PM   #28
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That's insane. Chip Foose could build an entire car from scratch in 45 hours.
Yeah it's fucking crazy. This car is driving me nuts man. I feel like one of the two shops I sent it too messed with my JB4 connects. JB4s steering controls don't work and on top of the ECU cover there's a piece of tape with 6.2 L and 6.5 Q written on it. Don't know why or who put that on. Like I said that noise is gone as seen in the video but the car idles soo rough. Plugs arent due unitl 7k more miles. Still have the half engine light. I'm sending it to one more shop next week to see what they say. Car is making me go crazy.
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      05-23-2017, 08:13 PM   #29
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I was troubleshooting my JB4 with Jon over email and I have to send in my board for them to test it. Doesn't look like it has anything to do with my engine sound. But it might give me the half engine light right?
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      05-25-2017, 03:29 PM   #30
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Sounds pretty much like this N54... https://www.instagram.com/p/s-YmFrMAjI/
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      05-26-2017, 02:56 PM   #31
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Sending the car to another BMW indy to make sure I really DO need an engine. Looks like I might have to bite the bullet
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      05-26-2017, 04:34 PM   #32
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Sucks man, it will be interesting to see what they find if you have it torn apart. I have have poor experiences with piggy backs on boosted applications, which is why I went MHD on mine.
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      05-26-2017, 06:42 PM   #33
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Sucks man, it will be interesting to see what they find if you have it torn apart. I have have poor experiences with piggy backs on boosted applications, which is why I went MHD on mine.
I'm not talking shit about JB4 but personally I feel like I'm gonna get MHD and sell the JB4 after I get an engine :\ This car is going no where till the wheels fall off.
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      05-26-2017, 06:44 PM   #34
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I like your attitude.
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      05-26-2017, 10:09 PM   #35
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I like your attitude.
She's a great car, but she's a little feisty and reckless.
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      05-29-2017, 05:51 PM   #36
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Buy used engine, drop it in. Should be able to find a shop to swap the fine for u for around 2k. For 10k, you can buy a whole used car.
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      05-29-2017, 11:31 PM   #37
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Buy used engine, drop it in. Should be able to find a shop to swap the fine for u for around 2k. For 10k, you can buy a whole used car.
Yeah 4.6k for the rebuilt motor and 2.5k for the labor. Still gonna make sure I need a new engine before I proceed.
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      06-01-2017, 01:53 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Mad E92 View Post
Yeah 4.6k for the rebuilt motor and 2.5k for the labor. Still gonna make sure I need a new engine before I proceed.
I'm having a similar issue that I can hear knocking from the engine that's more apparent around 2-3000 RPM's. I just took it to a BMW indy shop and they said it sounds like a rod bearing but they are gonna do some tests on it tomorrow to know for sure. They did tell me that if it is a bearing or something like that it would be more cost effective to get a used motor. They said a motor with 40-50k miles and a 6 or 12 month warranty on the motor and labor would run about $9k grand total installed. I don't know if the new motor would come with the manifolds or turbo though; I would think it would be better to replace the turbo in case of any metal flakes getting in there from the oil. Let me know what you end up doing OP
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      06-01-2017, 10:55 AM   #39
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An oil sample test would tell you for sure.

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 06-02-2017 at 08:16 AM.
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      06-01-2017, 03:40 PM   #40
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I opened the oil cap today and just saw some milky spots on the cap. Maybe I have a small leak into the cylinder?
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      06-01-2017, 05:21 PM   #41
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I'm not sure if it's cool in SF right now or not, it could just be condensation in the oil. But a $28.00 oil test would tell you a lot.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php


Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 06-02-2017 at 08:16 AM.
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      06-02-2017, 01:54 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 View Post
I'm not sure if it's cool in SF right now or not, it could just be condensation in the oil. But a $28.00 oil test would tell you a lot.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php
It was sort of cold. I just ordered the kit.
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      06-16-2017, 09:05 PM   #43
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Update: I sourced a rebuilt N55 engine from a engine re-builder on eBay. The rebuilt engine cost $5350 including a $1000 core charge and a $350 freight charge. Honestly anything could've caused this engine to knock. It's not worth trying to figure it out but I think my belt that shredded and entered the front main seal is the cause of my engine failure. I sent it to an indy who dropped the pan to clean all the belt material and get a new gasket. The belt pieces made it's way up to the valve cover via the timing chain which still has debris in it sadly. What I've learned from this whole thing, never let your OFHG leak and to always service your belt. At the end of the day, a $500 job that I should've done sooner would've saved me $7.5k :\
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      06-19-2017, 12:02 PM   #44
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That's a fair price, does he outline what he replaces and what parts, etc?
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