[NoTempoLimitN54]

Finally... Got it installed at LTBMW (their sign reads LTMotorwerks now).

First impression: Drove home on Coldwater tonight (my normal commute), and I was blessed to have no one in front of me (which hardly ever happens). So I got to hustle a bit. I have to keep it kind of tame because it's really dark there and sight distance is very limited. So high 2nd gear / low 3rd gear range.

Now my car finally WANTS TO TURN... Before I had to be very conscious of weight transfer. I had to load the front end by braking going into the turn and I could feel the chassis take some time to settle. Now my car is not nearly as sensitive to weight transfer and the chassis does not need time to settle like it did before. Nice feedback through the steering wheel.

On the highway my car is more sensitive to steering input (reacts faster) but you can still drive comfortably as long as you're willing to focus on driving (not use iPhoneiPodiPad put on make-up etc.)

Shortly I'll be heading off to work and my commute takes me on Mulholland drive. So hopefully no slow-ass drivers in front of me today as I'm very curious to see how my car will feel on Mulholland.

My car is CPO and at 61k miles. At the 60k mile service the BMW dealer SA told me my front tension link bushings were leaking. This isn't to bash on the dealer (they have a good service department) but their price to replace the bushings was $609.-! Ummmm.... no, thanks. My total cost was $843.-, but as you'll see below there is a lot more value:

$515.- M3 lower control arms & tension links (Tischer) These are the ///M branded parts.
$ 38.- New fastener kit for installation (ECS)
$200.- Install labor (LTBMW)
$ 90.- Alignment

I didn't DIY because I have a narrow 1 car garage that makes any work near the wheels a PITA. I damn near needed a chiropractor after doing the brakes on my E39 due to the contortions I had to get into. Plus I don't have any alignment places nearby.

I with with BMW ///M OE parts at slightly more cost. My car is under CPO for another 18 months so I don't want any B.S. about "non-factory modifications". You can save about $140.- with the TRW branded parts which seem to be identical. In the front suspension, these parts are easily visible so I felt that made it worth seeing the BMW and ///M logos. You can see it just by turning the steering to full lock. In the rear I will do the TRW parts with the ///M ground off.

I do have an issue that my camber is now -0.8 L -1.4 R. I had to get back to the office and the alignment guy wanted more $$ to try pulling the alignment pin and couldn't say how long it would take or guarantee that it would work. I could tell he didn't want to do it. Car was drivable and almost meets spec (0.6º difference between sides, it should be no more than 0.5º). So I had to call it and head to the office. Looks like I'm going to have to set something up at West End Alignment to pull the pin. I'd like at least -1.0 preferably -1.2 on the left side.

Anybody have any comments or advice about pulling the alignment pin? Does changing camber affect toe? Could I buy a tool to measure camber and do this in my garage?

More to follow...

[2010MSPORT335i]

Nice

Front and Rear?

[j23a45m]

good to hear

[Volasko]

How do you find the NVH levels? I just got my a whole new front end with M3 arms and I can notice the extra stiffness in the solid bushings vs the OEM liquid filled ones. I am also noticing much more interior panel rattling. The joys of driving an 8 year old BMW.

[NoTempoLimitN54]

Originally Posted by Volasko

How do you find the NVH levels? I just got my a whole new front end with M3 arms and I can notice the extra stiffness in the solid bushings vs the OEM liquid filled ones. I am also noticing much more interior panel rattling. The joys of driving an 8 year old BMW.

I noticed more feeling through the steering which I expected and wanted. Definitely not too much NVH for me. I'm running Michelin Pilot Super Sport non-run-flat. 235/35-19 front 265/30-19 rear.

What kind of wheels/tires are you running? Also, consider your tire pressure. BMW specs too high a pressure for the rear tires. Pressure that high would only be needed running the square setup and fully loaded with passengers and luggage.

[Volasko]

Running Conti DW's non run flats with 32psi front and back. Detailed wheel specs listed in my garage.

[vasillalov]

The alignment pin takes 5 minutes to take out. Most shops just drill them out since in most cases the alignment pin is stuck in the strut tower.

You should be able to get aroud -1.4 to -1.6 degrees of negative camber without the pins. I am at -1.5 on both left and right.

[nikitino25]

I got my alignment pins out just using some vice grips to get a good grip and then just unscrew....

[NoTempoLimitN54]

Thinking about doing the alignment pin myself...

Last night going home late I came up on a "hidden" on-ramp to US-101. It comes up at a 90º angle to the road that leads to it.

I passed up another car that was in the right lane to try to ensure that I would have no one in front of my on the ramp, then I moved into the right lane in front of him. I then realized that the turn-in point was coming up sooner than I expected and I was carrying a bit too much speed (compared to normal).

I got on the brakes, smoothly but firmly, and started my turn-in. I was expecting some squealing from my tires, perhaps a little bit of slip. Instead my car just turned in, not a bit of protest from the tires, and I was able to get back on the throttle just as I was pointing straight up the ramp.

That must have looked really cool from the perspective of the car behind me!

When you push your car's handling is when you really notice the difference between the mushy stock parts and the M3 front suspension components.

[vasillalov]

Originally Posted by NoTempoLimitN54

When you push your car's handling is when you really notice the difference between the mushy stock parts and the M3 front suspension components.

Everything on the M3 is just a tad better:

The suspension is a bit better.
The steering is a bit better.
The bushings are a bit better.
The strut bar is a bit better.
The weight distribution is a bit better.
The power delivery is a bit better.
The brakes are a bit better.
The cooling is a bit better.

Once you start getting into the details, you realize what an incredible machine the M3 really is out of the factory.

[335dFan]

Originally Posted by NoTempoLimitN54

When you push your car's handling is when you really notice the difference between the mushy stock parts and the M3 front suspension components.

You have got that right! The real evidence for me was at the HPDE at the Shenandoah Circuit of Summit Point Motorsports Park last Saturday.

[N0Chill 335i]

So my passenger side bushing is dying and I'm about to replace both sides with M3 Control arms. Is there anything else I need to buy besides the arms with built in bushings?

[Jdub679]

Originally Posted by NoTempoLimitN54

Thinking about doing the alignment pin myself...

Last night going home late I came up on a "hidden" on-ramp to US-101. It comes up at a 90º angle to the road that leads to it.

I passed up another car that was in the right lane to try to ensure that I would have no one in front of my on the ramp, then I moved into the right lane in front of him. I then realized that the turn-in point was coming up sooner than I expected and I was carrying a bit too much speed (compared to normal).

I got on the brakes, smoothly but firmly, and started my turn-in. I was expecting some squealing from my tires, perhaps a little bit of slip. Instead my car just turned in, not a bit of protest from the tires, and I was able to get back on the throttle just as I was pointing straight up the ramp.

That must have looked really cool from the perspective of the car behind me!

When you push your car's handling is when you really notice the difference between the mushy stock parts and the M3 front suspension components.

What's the fastener kit that you have listed on your OP?

Btw, nice descriptions!

[NoTempoLimitN54]

Originally Posted by Jdub679

What's the fastener kit that you have listed on your OP?

Btw, nice descriptions!

Thanks!

Front control arm "installation kit" (fasteners):

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335...Arm/ES2623061/

Ran an autocross on Sunday. BIG improvement in handling. My primary focus was no longer on fighting understeer (unfortunately it was on the persistent wheelspin from the lack of LSD).

Unlike the first time I ran autocross, the wear pattern on my front tires did not go past the triangles on the shoulder. With the stock bushings the wear went well past that and wore off the triangles and the stripes on the shoulder.

So I can now say with confidence that the excessive tire shoulder wear is caused by the stock bushings and stock alignment.

Next step is to pull the alignment pins and get my camber to be nearly equal L-R.

[N0Chill 335i]

Originally Posted by DeMerrisK

So my passenger side bushing is dying and I'm about to replace both sides with M3 Control arms. Is there anything else I need to buy besides the arms with built in bushings?

?

[Jdub679]

Originally Posted by NoTempoLimitN54

Thanks!

Front control arm "installation kit" (fasteners):

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335...Arm/ES2623061/

Ran an autocross on Sunday. BIG improvement in handling. My primary focus was no longer on fighting understeer (unfortunately it was on the persistent wheelspin from the lack of LSD).

Unlike the first time I ran autocross, the wear pattern on my front tires did not go past the triangles on the shoulder. With the stock bushings the wear went well past that and wore off the triangles and the stripes on the shoulder.

So I can now say with confidence that the excessive tire shoulder wear is caused by the stock bushings and stock alignment.

Next step is to pull the alignment pins and get my camber to be nearly equal L-R.

Thanks for the link. Why can't the original fasteners be used?

[NoTempoLimitN54]

Originally Posted by Jdub679

Thanks for the link. Why can't the original fasteners be used?

I believe the fasteners are the same. But there are locking nuts used on the suspension that are meant to be used one time only (according to the Bentley manual). They may not "lock" if removed and re-installed.

Seems like cheap insurance to me to have new fasteners put in.

[Jdub679]

Originally Posted by NoTempoLimitN54

I believe the fasteners are the same. But there are locking nuts used on the suspension that are meant to be used one time only (according to the Bentley manual). They may not "lock" if removed and re-installed.

Seems like cheap insurance to me to have new fasteners put in.

Makes sense. Thanks!

[raceyBMW]

You can reuse, but make sure you use Loctite if you do, because like said above they may lose their ability to stay locked.

[NoTempoLimitN54]

NEXT -> Pull alignment Pins -> max out negative camber and equal L-R

Also going to change out front sway bar brackets and bushings to M3 brackets (stronger) and BMW Motorsport bushings (much harder), but keep stock bar for now. This will make the front bar "respond faster" without actually increasing the spring rate which would cause too much understeer.

[NoTempoLimitN54]

Tried removing the strut alignment pins => FAIL!

I knew the 3mm internal hex was likely to strip. So I made a special tool. It is a 1/8 hex bit with the flanks ground down to 3mm at the tip. The result is a 3º tapered hex key going from 3.00 mm to 3.17 mm. Grinding the tip and flanks gives it sharp edges that grab into even stripped internal hexes.

I've successfully used this type of tool before to remove stripped cap screws. You hammer it in and then turn it to remove the screw.

The internal hex still stripped right away with this tool. Then I tried hammering in a T20 torx. It also stripped the hole. Despite the torque I was applying the T20 had no damage. Then I cut a slot in the pin with my Dremel. The metal bends under the pressure of the screwdriver without turning the pin and the screwdriver cams out. Obviously the strut alignment pins are made from a very soft metal. They seem to be annealed steel.

If anyone is wondering I used both Kroil (penetrating oil) and heat (mini blow torch). Did not help one bit. I also had the corner of the car jacked up and the strut tower nuts backed off. I should mention that the top of the strut stayed in contact with the inside of the strut tower even with the nuts backed off and the wheel in the air. Is this situation caused by the sway bar?

If anyone has any input on successfully removing the strut pins without damaging anything else, please let me know...

[Lifted07Duramax]

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