[johnnymu]

Originally Posted by Railgunner

Not now, I had to put everything back stock so I could have the car tommorrow. But it's pretty clear from the 2nd and 3rd pic. There's no room
to slide the filter onto the pipe. That air line is blocking the filter. Either my pipe was cut short or the air line comes out as a slightly different angle on the '08s.

Here's another pic I took before I relocated the power steering pump but you can already see that there's no way the filter will clear that air tube to slide onto the pipe.





L8Apex, It would move a little, maybe 1/4 inch but not nearly enough. I was not going to force it and take a chance of breaking the fitting where the pipe connects a few inches down.

From the pix provided from logic that air tube you are drawling over is relocated to the top and that black bracket is removed completely. So only thing I see that is in the way is the diverter valve tube, but that can easily be adjusted. But again you could have gotten a shorter tube, no idea if true or not. I hope it's just the relocation, which should be a easy fix.

[Park2670]

Originally Posted by Railgunner

You think? Read my posts. That pic was taken before I moved the power steering unit. The power steering unit is not the problem.

The picture you posted with the drawing showed that the filter does not fit with the PS bracket there. If you are having problems, post the pictures with it not fitting with the reservoir moved with the supplied bracket and show us how it doesnt fit. EVERY single picture you posted with it not fitting the reservoir is still in the OEM location.

[L8Apex]

This is what it should look like: Make sure you push the blow off pipe towards the motor (it will flex fine), then slide the filter over the pipe. It takes a little effort. The screwdriver in the second pic shows the end of the pipe (plenty of room).

[johnnymu]

Originally Posted by Railgunner

No, in the 2nd and 3rd pic, showing the filter, the power steering unit has been moved already. I've already said this about 5 times.

we know you stated this, but everytime you post a pic you contradict what you are saying, we're just making sure you mean what you are saying. everyone is just trying to help you out.

[Park2670]

There isnt anything different in the engine compartment of the 08s, there is something going wrong with your install.
Make sure the reservoir looks like this, and the diverter tube also looks like it goes right underneath the intake without strain

[Park2670]

What if you pushed the entire intake tube too far into the back? That would also cause strain on the filter. I wish I could be there, I would love to solve your situation.

[johnnymu]

Originally Posted by Railgunner

I don't think you could relocate the the diverter valve tube. There's no swivel on that fitting the plug is connected to and there's no way to bend it enough without potentially breaking or completely kinking it to get enough room.

You can altar the tube more than you think, when I changed to forge valves I tried bending twisting the oem tube like no tomorrow, and still came out undamaged. Of course I don't recommend this, I only did this for experiment only. An alternative method you could try is release one end of the valve and connect the intake first then try reattaching the diverter valve.

[Max@Logic]

Hi George,

We have installed the HVI on several 08s and a quite a few sedans already. Make sure your filter is installed on the HVI before you install it. I think you may be trying to install the filter last. Which you cannot due to the constraints of the engine bay. Put the filter on first and try it again. It will slide in just fine. The diverter valve hose sits right under the air filter flange. You have to gently push down while twisting the HVI towards the drivers side. It will go right in. Then just hold it in place to the desired position and tighten down the front hose clamp. Give me a call at the shop tomorrow if you are still have issues.

Best Regards,
Max-

[Max@Logic]

Hi George,

To clean or change the filter all you need to do is remove the front hose clamp and unscrew the air filter. No need to remove the HVi from the car. It's only 2 hose clamps.

Best Regards,
Max-

[Max@Logic]

Hi George,

You have an invoice and some nice black oxide bolts and lock nuts on its way to you. It was sent out last week. You should have it by monday or tuesday. Let me know via pm if you don't receive it.


We now stock the black oxide bolts and lock nuts for all HVI's. All kits come with them inside the K&N box.

Best Regards,
Max-

[ezatnova]

Originally Posted by Max@Logic

Hi George,

To clean or change the filter all you need to do is remove the front hose clamp and unscrew the air filter. No need to remove the HVi from the car. It's only 2 hose clamps.

Best Regards,
Max-

Granted I don't have mine yet, but this comment has me confused. In your prior post you mention you have to have the filter on the pipe first, then install the pipe or it won't clear. Then in the post above you imply the filter should come right off the pipe for cleaning. Am I missing something? Or, by "remove the front hose clamp" do you mean the one to the plastic tube, below the filter, then just bend the whole unit up a bit. I was thinking by "front hose clamp" you meant the one holding the filter to the hvi pipe.

[L8Apex]

Just and Fyi, I have removed my filter and tried a bigger cone filter from the HVI twice and reinstalled it no problem. I did not have to remove the HVI to do the swap. Yes this is on a E90.

[ontopofm]

to remove the filter you will have to remove the pipe but it's a piece of cake, loosen up the 2 clamps, remove the pipe and off the filter, it's a one minute job, dont need to remove anything else, i know bcuz i've done it, this is on e92

[ezatnova]

Well, going out and doing a mock-walk-through of the steps before I get mine, I have three initial questions.
1. Why remove the two black plastic shell pieces in step one? I certainly understand removing the center piece, since that holds the hoses, but, why pop off the two plastic pieces on either side of that (I thought this is where the DME was)?

2. That air hose clamp from the brake booster that you have to squeeze is a little bugger. I squeezed it pretty hard and got the clip to release, but, I pulled up decently and the hose didn't pop off. Do you have to pull pretty hard? Do you just sqeeze enough to unclip it but then pull up on the more solid part of it rather than the plastic clip?

3. The same air hose, where it's clipped into the stock air box by the plastic claw looking bracket, it really feels like it could break there if I pulled too hard to remove that. That just pops out though, huh?

[Max@Logic]

Pm replied!

[2_N54's]

Max thanks for the great product and thanks for teaching me how to install it. I'm glad the pictures turned out okay.

Russ

[Max@Logic]

Hey Russ,

It was my pleasure. Thanks for allowing us to use your car for the DIY. Let me know when you have time to try the HVI on your 535.. Happy Motoring!

Best Regards,
Max-

[ezatnova]

Well, my install is basicaly done. I think I want to re-loosen the two hose clamps and try to rotate the thing a little more downwards towards the driver's side wheel to lower the filter. It looks like it might hit the hood insulation and I don't need that wearing and looking like crap.

My thoughts and experiences from the install:

- Honestly it was more complicated and time consuming that I thought it would be. It took me a solid two hours and I have been wrenching on cars for 12 years now and I've done way harder things than installing intakes

- I think a little more comprehensive DIY would help a lot of people. There are just little steps here and there that it would help to explain (i.e. pulling the center plastic piece straight back towards you to pop it out after you lift the air cleaner housing up in step 1. Or having to yank the two rubber hoses from the hose clamp attached to the PS bracket before it can be removed. Or, having to pull up fairly hard on the stock air box to remove it from the ruber grommet posts that it is secured on. Etc etc)

- After the PS bracket is removed, there is a bare bolt that is darn near one of the PS hoses. I wasn't comfortable with this, so I covered the bolt sticking up with electrical tape so if it rubbed the hose, it wouldn't cut it over time.

- The rubber "grommet" things that hold the three air tubes to the stock box are a major PITA to get off. You really have to pull hard and finagle them up. It's MUCH easier to get them on the logic intake mounts.

- Maybe putting the hardware in a ziplock in the K&N box would help, since my bolts and nuts and all fell out of the K&N box during shipping and I had to root through the peanuts for them like an excited 3 year old. Also, it would be beautiful to packing-tape the holes of the intake over its ends before packing peanuts are put around it...mine was JAMMED with those suckers. Some fool may install it with some jammed in there...that would suck (literally)

No review of it yet from me since I haven't even started the car. I'm praying it isn't loud and annoying. Will post my thoughts tomorrow or later tonight.

[Nexus-6]

I wanted to chime in on the power steering reservoir and clamp location.

The hoses attached to the bottom of the PS reservoir use clamp clips which stick out and aren't the smoothest of things. On my car, the larger clip pressed directly into the front hose for my Forge DV's. If you run Forge, you know how thick those hoses are.

At first, I did the same thing and placed a bit of soft velcro tape between the clip and the hose but then I noticed the 10mm bolt securing the PS reservoir - it's a circular bracket and if you loosen that 10mm bolt, you can rotate the entire reservoir within the round bracket to relieve all tension on the hoses, plus of course it gets the clip away from that front hose.

At first blush you may think it's a bolt holding the two hemispheres of the reservoir together, but it's not. It's a silver bolt on the inboard side of the PS reservoir - loosen it about halfway, and using both hands grasp the reservoir and twist it clockwise a bit until the tension on the new hoses from the new mounted angle is eliminated and/or the PS hose clip is away from the front diverter hose.

Also, I placed some loctite (blue - medium) on the bracket bolts to keep things secure. I know someone mentioned someplace that they were concerned about vibes loosening that single bolt holding it to the car, and although I don't think that could actually happen, with a little medium loctite it won't happen for sure.

Last note - the filter edges do contact the hoodliner a tad, but not enough to leave impressions from what I can tell. There is enough give in the overall assembly that there is no firm pressure being applied upwards into the hoodliner so it won't get boogered up over time (nor is there enough downward pressure from the hood to cause any issues given the thickness of the hoodliner plus just how little contact there is).


Pics :


Loosen this bolt (it doesn't look like it here but there is a 2 inch gap between the bolt and the DV hose) :




After rotating the reservoir with the above bolt loosened, you can get the bottom PS hose clamp away from the diverter hose like this :




With the way the PS reservoir is mounted from the factory, there is tension on the PS hoses when you relocate it using the Logic bracket. Not enough to really matter, but in my case with the FDV's, the front hose was making direct and firm contact with that clamp shown in the second pic which over time would have cut or nicked it.

Fix is simple - just don't mistake that silver bolt as the thing keeping the reservoir together. It's just the round tension bracket that secures the round reservoir.

Don't forget to tighten the 10mm bolt back up though afterwards!

[Max@Logic]

Great write up guys! Keep the feedback coming. Thanks for all the kind words, friendly pms as well as the calls. Customer service is our #1 Goal and we will continue to move forward.

Best Regards,
Max-

[ezatnova]

Alright, I went for a drive. I also PM'd my results to Max so he is aware of my findings. I wanted to post here too in case any others have the same thing happen, as many people are probably installing this week/weekend.

First, I'll say that the sound is fantastic. I wanted the least sound possible, and I understand there will be a little turbo hiss audible now and I'll live with that. I'm thrilled with the lack of ricer-growl from the intake though. The natural engine note and exhaust are still by far the most prevalent!

However...after I drove for 10 minutes and warmed the car up (185 or so on the oil temp), I punched it in third gear. At about 4k-5k rpm the car cut out and hesitated rather abruptly for a half second. I thought I was going crazy so I slowed a bit and nailed it again...same thing. A hickup/stutter around 4500. Sort of felt sick to the stomach...last thing I want with my car is to botch it up with this. I slowed and did a second gear pull and this time it didn't hesitate but abruptly felt like it kicked in more power at high rpm (like vtec, honestly). I slowed and did second and third gear and similarly, it felt like an extra bump in the pants, abruptly, around 4500 rpm or higher. While this may seem fun, I'm actually concerned about it since the car was always butter smooth with the stock intake and I don't see what the heck would change that.
My only thought is that there is some "learning" the car has to do with sucking in the extra air, and Max did concur. My only thought is that it leaned out from the extra air and had to either dump in fuel, bogging it, or it knocked a bit from being lean and pulled timing...then when it was "learning" on the subsequent pulls, it was adding timing/boost back in as warranted.
I'll post up again tomorrow night or Friday as I can do more WOT pulls. I want that smoothness to come back though!

**UPDATE**: Next day - Car seems to have adapted and isn't hesitating in the last couple pulls I've gotten in. I will elaborate in a new post below.

[Nexus-6]

I'll be able to test as soon as the floods stop here in Dallas...

For what it's worth, I disconnected my battery overnight last night expecting the rains and completed the install this afternoon as the rive...er, roads flowed outside.

Anyhow, given that, I'll be able to test from a clean slate in other words in terms of any relearn going on. I have to say, I can't any adapting causing such a "hitch in yer giddiup" so to speak, based on what you described. Typically any such adapting will happen very quickly, much sooner than a massive slow down or hiccup would even have time for in my experience. But, who knows - I'll see what happens tomorrow with mine but it seems odd that other folks haven't reported anything similar (??)

Any chance your diverter valve lock rings were bumped loose and you're getting a leak there? Vacuum line (hard black line) plugged back in tightly? You have to really push it down until it clicks - it almost feels like it's in by pushing hard, but unless it clicks it's not all the way down and that o-ring isn't sealing.

Also, make sure that the soft vacuum line that routes off the bottom of the hard black line isn't pinched in between the fender and the new location of the power steering reservoir. Initially mine was pinched before readjustment. I believe that soft line routes to the driver side exhaust flap (I'm guessing big time here) - I started my car with the hard black line unplugged one night after playing around with springs in the new DVs and instantly had the "golf tee mod" crap exhaust tone, though a vacuum leak anywhere would cause this I suspect.