[AllBlackBimmer]

I have a '08 328i... 87k on it.

Already had the VC and OFHG done.

And of course, my oil pan gasket is "Starting" to leak...

No biggie, and not in a super rush to fix it (unless there is some reason I should? Its just barely starting to weep)

But, I will most likely have my Indy shop do this...

My question is - while having them do this - should I have them do anything else while there are in there? Not sure what needs to be removed or what else is accessible while doing this job?

I messed up when having my VC/VCG done to NOT get my Eccentric shaft sensor done ... so whenever that ends up failing, I will have to pay another $1500 to get it replaced rather than having it replaced during my VC/VCG repair. Lesson learned.... expensive lesson.
So that is why if there is anything else while doing the oil pan gasket, I'd like to do it now.

Also, any reason to change the actual oil pan? Do they develop any issues?


I'm coming up on the milestone 100,000 miles... so other than the above listed items... I will also be doing spark plugs, diff fluid change, manual trans fluid change.... in hopes to keep my E90 for years to come!

[KeepRidingDirty]

Originally Posted by AllBlackBimmer

I have a '08 328i... 87k on it.

Already had the VC and OFHG done.

And of course, my oil pan gasket is "Starting" to leak...

No biggie, and not in a super rush to fix it (unless there is some reason I should? Its just barely starting to weep)

But, I will most likely have my Indy shop do this...

My question is - while having them do this - should I have them do anything else while there are in there? Not sure what needs to be removed or what else is accessible while doing this job?

I messed up when having my VC/VCG done to NOT get my Eccentric shaft sensor done ... so whenever that ends up failing, I will have to pay another $1500 to get it replaced rather than having it replaced during my VC/VCG repair. Lesson learned.... expensive lesson.
So that is why if there is anything else while doing the oil pan gasket, I'd like to do it now.

Also, any reason to change the actual oil pan? Do they develop any issues?


I'm coming up on the milestone 100,000 miles... so other than the above listed items... I will also be doing spark plugs, diff fluid change, manual trans fluid change.... in hopes to keep my E90 for years to come!

Just did this on my 335xi and xi adds like 2x the work as the axle goes through the oil pan and the front diff also bolts to the oil pan. If you're at 100k miles, you should do motor mounts as those are connected to the subframe that has to be dropped. Notice I said should, as people recommend doing it but it might not be necessary. If you haven't done the water pump it would also be a good time to do that, super easy with the subframe off and with 100k you're on borrowed time. Other than that nothing else really. The control arms and tie rods and rack have to be unbolted but unless those need replacement no point. It took me 8 hours to finish the job on an xi so I'd say 5 hours should be plenty of mechanic time with a good clean up.

[AllBlackBimmer]

Originally Posted by KeepRidingDirty

Just did this on my 335xi and xi adds like 2x the work as the axle goes through the oil pan and the front diff also bolts to the oil pan. If you're at 100k miles, you should do motor mounts as those are connected to the subframe that has to be dropped. Notice I said should, as people recommend doing it but it might not be necessary. If you haven't done the water pump it would also be a good time to do that, super easy with the subframe off and with 100k you're on borrowed time. Other than that nothing else really. The control arms and tie rods and rack have to be unbolted but unless those need replacement no point. It took me 8 hours to finish the job on an xi so I'd say 5 hours should be plenty of mechanic time with a good clean up.

How can I tell if my motor mounts are "failing" ? ... I don't have any weird vibrations or anything under load... I agree that this my be a little excessive... but will look into it, depending on how expensive it may be. Not sure how much motor mounts cost.

Is the water pump easily accessible? If it is, I will most likely do that, as I agree, it is "only a matter of time". I've had my thermostat replaced maybe 20k ago under CPO, so perhaps I'll just do the WP and not the thermostat.
I assume you have to flush the cooling system after replacing the pump? I guess either way, I should flush the coolant regardless.

[cpie168]

Interesting thread. Subscribed!

[KeepRidingDirty]

Originally Posted by AllBlackBimmer

How can I tell if my motor mounts are "failing" ? ... I don't have any weird vibrations or anything under load... I agree that this my be a little excessive... but will look into it, depending on how expensive it may be. Not sure how much motor mounts cost.

Is the water pump easily accessible? If it is, I will most likely do that, as I agree, it is "only a matter of time". I've had my thermostat replaced maybe 20k ago under CPO, so perhaps I'll just do the WP and not the thermostat.
I assume you have to flush the cooling system after replacing the pump? I guess either way, I should flush the coolant regardless.

The motor mounts are about 100 each. In my Ford Taurus I had a motor mount fail, no weird vibrations but when I'd accelerate the engine would hit the hood, haha. After the subframe is out it's like 2 bolts to remove them. It's really up to you on if you want to replace them or not.

The coolant does have to be drained to remove the pump, you CAN do the water pump with the subframe in but its 10x easier with the subframe out and will be much cheaper labor wise.

[Efthreeoh]

Just retorque the bolts and let it go for another 100 thou.

[AllBlackBimmer]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Just retorque the bolts and let it go for another 100 thou.

On the oil pan?

That may work sometimes for gasket leaks, but hard to tell without doing it obviously...

Can I get to the bolts without removing anything? (Other than the plastic skid plate)

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by AllBlackBimmer

On the oil pan?

That may work sometimes for gasket leaks, but hard to tell without doing it obviously...

Can I get to the bolts without removing anything? (Other than the plastic skid plate)

My car has a leaky oil pan gasket for the past 100,000 miles or so. I ocassionaly retorque the oil pan bolts (not much mind you because they are aluminum). It keeps leak down to a weeping gasket. You can get to all the bolts, but you need 1/4-drive extensions and swivel joint, and of course the correct-size e-torx socket. Most oil pans leak at the gasket as the engine ages (every car I've ever had has - even Hondas), so I'm not sure why everyone around here gets so uptight about it.

My 2 cents.

[KeepRidingDirty]

Becareful retorquing the bolts, they break easy, I had 3 broken bolts before I started and broke 2 more removing them. You'll be in a worse spot if you break one off.

[still in school]

yes, listen to everyone and be careful tightening it. I broke off 2 of mine just trying to retighten them. I'll probably have an indy shop replace the gasket at a later date.

[AllBlackBimmer]

Originally Posted by KeepRidingDirty

Becareful retorquing the bolts, they break easy, I had 3 broken bolts before I started and broke 2 more removing them. You'll be in a worse spot if you break one off.

are you saying the 3 bolts broke on their own before you even tried retightening them?

[AllBlackBimmer]

Originally Posted by still in school

yes, listen to everyone and be careful tightening it. I broke off 2 of mine just trying to retighten them. I'll probably have an indy shop replace the gasket at a later date.

I might just let it alone for a little since my gasket is just weeping a little... and then just pay to have the gasket replaced one of these days.


Not sure how much you guys were trying to crank on the bolts, but I assume it couldn't have been too hard if you are saying be careful. Perhaps those bolts are made to "break" so you can't over torque them just like some of you guys tried doing. ... which kind of makes sense, so you don't warp the oil pan for over torqueing the bolts.

[KeepRidingDirty]

Originally Posted by AllBlackBimmer

I might just let it alone for a little since my gasket is just weeping a little... and then just pay to have the gasket replaced one of these days.


Not sure how much you guys were trying to crank on the bolts, but I assume it couldn't have been too hard if you are saying be careful. Perhaps those bolts are made to "break" so you can't over torque them just like some of you guys tried doing. ... which kind of makes sense, so you don't warp the oil pan for over torqueing the bolts.

I didn't try to tighten my bolts, some of mine were already broken before replacing my pan gasket, then when trying to remove the bolts to install the new gasket a few more broke. The bolts are stretch bolts, so you torque to 8nm then an additional 90 degrees for short ones and 180 for the long ones. Once stretched I don't think they're supposed to be tightened anymore.

[e90mbition]

Are you seeing any oil stains around the oil drain door?

I was getting my oil change today at the garage and i saw a oily spot around the drain door and got me thinking if it was the oil pan gasket. I checked from the top whether it may be a VCG but does not look like it but the shop said it may be the VCG leaking form the inner side closer to the cabin, which I doubt.

Can you share if you are getting the symptom of the oil drain door being oily?

THANKS!