[cooldude346]

I actually live in Fairfax, could you please provide me with details on that shop please.

I just got the required mosfets in today and looking to get my car fixed asap.

[ritzzzzzwik]

Originally Posted by cooldude346

I actually live in Fairfax, could you please provide me with details on that shop please.

I just got the required mosfets in today and looking to get my car fixed asap.

Give these guys a try http://www.fairfaxcomputerrepair.com/
they repair computers, they much have a soldering rod.

[cooldude346]

Thanks ritzzzzzwik for your help!

I called up this place and they are doing the mosfet replacements for $70: https://cssva.com/wordpress/

The dude is pretty chill and seems qualified to do a job like this.
But he wouldn't do it while i waited and told me I have to come back tomorrow.

So I'm getting my DME back tomorrow morning and can't wait to plug and play and see what happens. I'll post back!

[BeastMode335i]

Just got mine done last week for $15, I guess there's no accurate price for this service lol..

[Bmwfixerguy]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

Just got mine done last week for $15, I guess there's no accurate price for this service lol..

Yea my buddy at work did it for a 12 pack lol... Getting your car back on the road and not buying a the and paying programming and coding is priceless though... Even my coat on a time is 1200

[Velocity26]

Just a hint for you guys ... never tell the technician what it costs to replace the ECU, or how much trouble they are to reprogram with all of the other systems. These same chips could likely be found in a $150 stereo amplifier, and they would fix those for a fair price.

In general, the cost of the repair is somewhat based on how much money they think you are saving by not having to replace it. If the tech thinks that it costs $200 to replace the unit, he will quote you in the $25 range, or whatever his labor rate is to repair it. If they think that it is worth $2,000+, suddenly the price goes up to $250 for the same job.

[Bmwfixerguy]

Originally Posted by Velocity26

Just a hint for you guys ... never tell the technician what it costs to replace the ECU, or how much trouble they are to reprogram with all of the other systems. These same chips could likely be found in a $150 stereo amplifier, and they would fix those for a fair price.

In general, the cost of the repair is somewhat based on how much money they think you are saving by not having to replace it. If the tech thinks that it costs $200 to replace the unit, he will quote you in the $25 range, or whatever his labor rate is to repair it. If they think that it is worth $2,000+, suddenly the price goes up to $250 for the same job.

This is very very true... Good point I thought of writi g this down but got side tracked I'm glad you adressed this

[cooldude346]

Hey guys so heres the update:

I gave my DME to the guy at the shop last Friday, April 29th.
I get it back today after 8 days. He said he ran into numerous problems which include not being able to remove the old transistors and he needed a special smaller soldering iron which took 3 days to get in since nobody had it in stock..

However, when i went to go pick it up he said that the number 5 mosfet, or the number 2 mosfet (one of the corner ones) did not have a base/metal part that the mosfet would be soldered onto. He said the initial one just came off and he tried to rub to dig into the metal part but the metal was not there at all. He said he ran into a similar problem with the first mosfet but was able to rub down and connect the mosfet to metal.
He said he tried looking for it a lot but didn't find a metal connection at all. I assumed he broke it off somehow and is just saying that to me.

Therefore that mosfet did not have a connection for one leg. Is that true? Is one of the corner mosfets not connected or did he break it? Or maybe it overheated and broke and thats the root cause of the problem in the first place.
He still soldered it onto the base even though there was no metal.

Anyways, regardless of who broke it, theres no connection for one leg of one mosfet.
I have 6 brand new mosfets sitting here (since i initially ordered 6 extra) and a DME which isn't working just like before.
Any suggestions for what to do next?

I would hit up n54dme.com and pay the $500 because Im desperate to get my car fixed. But i doubt they can do much in terms of getting metal to show up.
Is my only option at this time to buy a new DME?

Any help would be appreciated. Thank

[Bmwfixerguy]

Originally Posted by cooldude346

Hey guys so heres the update:

I gave my DME to the guy at the shop last Friday, April 29th.
I get it back today after 8 days. He said he ran into numerous problems which include not being able to remove the old transistors and he needed a special smaller soldering iron which took 3 days to get in since nobody had it in stock..

However, when i went to go pick it up he said that the number 5 mosfet, or the number 2 mosfet (one of the corner ones) did not have a base/metal part that the mosfet would be soldered onto. He said the initial one just came off and he tried to rub to dig into the metal part but the metal was not there at all. He said he ran into a similar problem with the first mosfet but was able to rub down and connect the mosfet to metal.
He said he tried looking for it a lot but didn't find a metal connection at all. I assumed he broke it off somehow and is just saying that to me.

Therefore that mosfet did not have a connection for one leg. Is that true? Is one of the corner mosfets not connected or did he break it? Or maybe it overheated and broke and thats the root cause of the problem in the first place.
He still soldered it onto the base even though there was no metal.

Anyways, regardless of who broke it, theres no connection for one leg of one mosfet.
I have 6 brand new mosfets sitting here (since i initially ordered 6 extra) and a DME which isn't working just like before.
Any suggestions for what to do next?

I would hit up n54dme.com and pay the $500 because Im desperate to get my car fixed. But i doubt they can do much in terms of getting metal to show up.
Is my only option at this time to buy a new DME?

Any help would be appreciated. Thank

I didn't solder mine a friend at work that actually enjoys doing it did it for me... He made it seem stupid easy to be honest and said I could have done it no problem...
Anyways I know you want an answer like yesterday but I'll see him on Monday and since he's the one that did it I'll let him read your experience and see if there is any merit...
I know it seems really long and I feel your pain

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

If the solder pad was broken off of the board you would need to make a jumper wire to wherever that pad was supposed to go to. It's called tracing and it's a pita. I do some basic level soldering; just finished switching a couple eeprom chips to get my ecu to match my CAS/keys. The biggest problem would be to find a schematics view of the ecu board though :/.

[cooldude346]

Hey guys so I don't have a code reader so I had to wait on my friend to read the codes on the car once again and just got around to doing that.
Thankfully the car sitting on my driveway is not THAT big of a problem anymore since my dad gave me his old Camry to drive around in the meantime.
I would like to solve the issue asap however so I can go back to smoking everybody I know
Jk im a safe driver.

We read in the codes yesterday after I replaced all 6 coil packs because I knew 2 or 3 must of been bad. The car did run more smoothly after replacing them but still had obvious misfire(s) and shut off as usual after 2 mins or so...

The only two codes its spitting out now are:
2E35 Injection valve cylinder 6, input signal
29DC Cylinder injection switch-off

I did a fair bit of research and found out that these random codes are not always associated with the DME 30BB failure which was the initial problem. This makes me happy since my DME may be fine now. Ironically however, the mosfet/base on the board that control the 6th fuel injector was the one that he had the trouble with when soldering. So that makes me worry.

Does anybody have any idea what any of these codes could mean? A new 6th fuel injector perhaps? An out of compression cylinder=blown engine?

Im trying my best to figure this out before I end up taking it to BMW of Fairfax and take a 4k hit on repairs most likely. :/

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

Originally Posted by cooldude346

Hey guys so I don't have a code reader so I had to wait on my friend to read the codes on the car once again and just got around to doing that.
Thankfully the car sitting on my driveway is not THAT big of a problem anymore since my dad gave me his old Camry to drive around in the meantime.
I would like to solve the issue asap however so I can go back to smoking everybody I know
Jk im a safe driver.

We read in the codes yesterday after I replaced all 6 coil packs because I knew 2 or 3 must of been bad. The car did run more smoothly after replacing them but still had obvious misfire(s) and shut off as usual after 2 mins or so...

The only two codes its spitting out now are:
2E35 Injection valve cylinder 6, input signal
29DC Cylinder injection switch-off

I did a fair bit of research and found out that these random codes are not always associated with the DME 30BB failure which was the initial problem. This makes me happy since my DME may be fine now. Ironically however, the mosfet/base on the board that control the 6th fuel injector was the one that he had the trouble with when soldering. So that makes me worry.

Does anybody have any idea what any of these codes could mean? A new 6th fuel injector perhaps? An out of compression cylinder=blown engine?

Im trying my best to figure this out before I end up taking it to BMW of Fairfax and take a 4k hit on repairs most likely. :/

Have you looked through your settings in INPA? It'll show you the values of the injectors at how much fuel and for how long it's being injected. Do you think you can take a photo of the missing pin? Obviously you would want to find out what happened if it's really missing a connection

[ritzzzzzwik]

Originally Posted by cooldude346

Hey guys so I don't have a code reader so I had to wait on my friend to read the codes on the car once again and just got around to doing that.
Thankfully the car sitting on my driveway is not THAT big of a problem anymore since my dad gave me his old Camry to drive around in the meantime.
I would like to solve the issue asap however so I can go back to smoking everybody I know
Jk im a safe driver.

We read in the codes yesterday after I replaced all 6 coil packs because I knew 2 or 3 must of been bad. The car did run more smoothly after replacing them but still had obvious misfire(s) and shut off as usual after 2 mins or so...

The only two codes its spitting out now are:
2E35 Injection valve cylinder 6, input signal
29DC Cylinder injection switch-off

I did a fair bit of research and found out that these random codes are not always associated with the DME 30BB failure which was the initial problem. This makes me happy since my DME may be fine now. Ironically however, the mosfet/base on the board that control the 6th fuel injector was the one that he had the trouble with when soldering. So that makes me worry.

Does anybody have any idea what any of these codes could mean? A new 6th fuel injector perhaps? An out of compression cylinder=blown engine?

Im trying my best to figure this out before I end up taking it to BMW of Fairfax and take a 4k hit on repairs most likely. :/

The injector may be toast. A common issue with fried DMEs. But be sure to replace all in the same bank, you cant just replace one. All injectors in the same bank must be the identical, so you're looking at a grand or so anyway. Sorry this is dragging on for so long. If you need someone to run a diagnostic on the injectors, I recommend GT Peace auto in Chantilly. Galen and Scott did the work on my fried DME. That said mine was replaced under warranty, but they know what to look for. At least they can test out your Injectors.

[BMWHutt]

Hello my friends,

I recently got my DME back after having all 6 MOSFETS replaced. Code 30BB went away and now getting codes 2E30, 2E31, 2E32, 30AE and 30AC. Should I replace all the coils and spark plugs first or replace all 3 injectors?

Victor

[TGNY 335]

Originally Posted by BMWHutt

Hello my friends,

I recently got my DME back after having all 6 MOSFETS replaced. Code 30BB went away and now getting codes 2E30, 2E31, 2E32, 30AE and 30AC. Should I replace all the coils and spark plugs first or replace all 3 injectors?

Victor

first thing I'd do is the DME cover and verify yourself that the correct parts were used and that the repair work is clean.

if it all checks out. try swapping the coils to another bank and see if the codes change. the plugs, depending on mileage change em anyway. they are cheap enough.

[BMWHutt]

Man... I hope he did a good job.. that is a good idea I was avoiding taking it apart ... I have original coils and about 20k on the plugs so I will order those ... I think I still have a couple gallons of e85 in there also I filled the tank back up with 93 before I got it towed to my house.. I also tried reinstalling the JB4 and running map 5 just seems worse...

[DKNY66]

Anyone by NJ or NY area that has extra mosfit chips. I ordered some today but won't get here till Tuesday. I need them asap. I'll take 1 or 6 , what ever you have any will pay what ever you think is fair. Please pm me.

[Bmwfixerguy]

Originally Posted by TGNY 335

first thing I'd do is the DME cover and verify yourself that the correct parts were used and that the repair work is clean.

if it all checks out. try swapping the coils to another bank and see if the codes change. the plugs, depending on mileage change em anyway. they are cheap enough.

It's extremely common if not always that the mosfets frying takes out at least one could.. Kinda like a chicken or the egg thing to be honest

[Duck70]

I love this thread. I about died when reading the code that it was 'fried' DME. I removed my DME, tested the Mosfets for connectivity and sure enough, the Mosfet for injector 5 was testing positive for failure. Now I just need to find someone to do the repair, any rec's in Oregon?

Also, upon reinstall, is there any software flashes that need to be done or is it just plug back in and drive? thanks again

[AlpineWhiteF30]

Okay so here's what happened. I ordered the 2step rely for my JB4, I'm stead of waiting until the morning I did it during night and rushing. Long story short I connected the wiring harness on the right side if the DME wrong. I connected the black on top instead of the grey and tried to start the car. Car didn't start. Now even with out the JB4 connected the car isn't turning over. Car is at the shop and they are saying they can't read any codes. I'm sure I fired the DME. I'm taking the DME out tomorrow and see if a local electronic shop (Germany) has the right MOSFETs. This is my 08 e92 I'm taking about. Hopefully this get my car started again!

[YoungBlood]

Anyone got photos of this? I'm not seeing the original ones. At least one of mine shit the bed today lol

[Slow-n54]

Anyone in Greensboro North Carolina can help with this I had the 2 step and it fried it .