[mopandasauce]

Hello There,

There's an issue with my rear right back window regulator that I can't seem to figure out. It gets stuck in the down position and only comes up with either a push from underneath the glass (little help) or if stop the actuation of the window up as soon as it starts (see video for clarification).

I've changed out the window regulator multiple times but can't figure out why it's stopping. It's like the the pressure sensor senses something on the bottom and doesn't want to go up but stopping the actuation bypasses it.

Here's a little video:

View post on imgur.com

Thanks in advance!

[ohmygawd]

I have the exact same issue. Hoping you find a solution

[georgelb]

I'd try resetting the limits. On most cars with a one touch feature you do this by holding the button in each direction for about 20 seconds after it is fully up or fully down.

So, roll it all the way down, let go of button.
Hold the button down for about 20 seconds.
Roll it all the way up, let go of button.
Hold the button up for about 20 seconds.

Re-test

[mopandasauce]

Hmm tried resetting the window in multiple manners. I know it senses where the window should stop as the auto up and down feature works. My assumption is that when it's at the bottom, the motor is having trouble pushing it up when it bottoms out.

Might have replace the motor for the window but thinking it's not worth it

[Serf27]

My e90 has this issue. I just live with it.

My e91 has this issue and I was able to fix it.

I rolled the window up all the way, used the single touch to roll it down about 2-3” then quick pause till it finally hit the bottom.
Once it was at the bottom I pushed the window switch down all the way (double touch/push feature?) and held it down for 20 seconds. That reset it and it stopped doing it.

[CircularMotion]

you have a code in the window/module ecu. may not be visible when using carly or other types of apps -- you'll need inpa and a kdcan cable to reset it, takes less than a few seconds to reset.

I had this issue after I changed out a bad regulator. window would stay down, would go up hit the limit and then roll down halfway, etc.

if you removed the regulator/motor power while the battery was still powered you will always have the code stored.

[bmwbob89]

Hi all, I am having the same issue with both rear windows on a car I recently acquired. It only happened after the prior owner replaced the regulators. I'm leaning towards the motors being bad but don't want to waste money if its not going to fix it. I've reinitialized them several times and even took the motor partially apart and lubed it. They do exactly what happens in the video above. I've searched and can't find an answer other than live with it. I have pretty much fixed everything else I can find wrong with the car and want this fixed. 2007 328XI sedan

[bmwbob89]

Might have a possible fix. The window was initialized several times with no change. Once it was up a 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch it would toll shut. Always tolled open. So I found a used regulator with the motor. Swapped the unit in, initialized it and it was worked correctly several times. So I'm pretty sure the motor is the issue. I believe there is a hall sensor on the motor that tells it where open and closed are. Now on to the right rear window. I ordered a new motor on eBay for cheap money today. I will install it and update the post.

[bmwbob89]

Fixed!! I installed the R/R window motor today and initialized it. Closes now when completely opened. So the motors are the problem. Why they fail after the regulator fails is a mystery. The R/R has a cheap regulator and it works fine. Now both rear window work properly. Ya! Hope this helps others with this issue.

[SMazza]

I'm not convinced that the motors have any kind of hall switch or other position sensing feature. Doesn't it take multiple revolutions of the motor and gears to get the regulator wound up all the way? So how would the car even know which revolution the motor was on?

Maybe an old motor might have higher internal friction and be more likely to trip the anti-trap safety feature. But you reported that you got good results with both the used motor and the new motor. So that doesn't really seem to correlate with the amount of use on the motor.

Additionally, people who had regulator failures had the entire system (old motor and old regulator) working fine up until the regulator failed. And people reported that their window worked fine after replacing the old regulator with an OEM regulator, but not changing the motor at all. So the motor being the failure point seems unlikely.

Maybe the new motors have different current draw characteristics as compared to the originals? I wonder if that affects the ability of the car to sense entrapment. I would not be surprised if a less-than-fastidious aftermarket parts manufacturer designed in something like that as a cover for their inability to make a regulator that meets OEM specs.

Either way, I'm glad it's working for you.

[bmwbob89]

Go to new tis and look up the wiring diagrams they do have a hall sensor. The one I put the new motor on has an aftermarket piece of crap regulator. It works fine now. Trust me the problem was the motors. I tried every work around before I replaced the motors.