[Joshboody]

glad you succeeded OP! Its not really that bad... I did 2 clutches on jack stands, no power tools, alone (wife did spot the first time). The second time was much easier.

Exhaust is fairly easy for 1 person, once you know where to put the jack and just hang it from the diff mounts until everything is loose.
For the pilot bearing, the harbor freight slide hammer works great I hear... I didn't change it (never heard of one on any car failing), but that was my backup.
The Harbor Freight tranny jack worked great also... I just returned it afterwards. Have to be patient with the angles.

[Casca]

In the midst of a clutch/flywheel replacement. 325i n52, OEM (if you consider Luk OEM) everything.

I was looking out to install the flywheel correctly on the crankshaft, but it doesn't look like it can be installed any other way but the one way, unless you take the dowl off the crankshaft flange(?) and then put a new dowl on in the wrong hole. Hopefully I got it right.

What I did screw up on was not reading the manual. Usually I just...guess for disassymbly and for the most part I do OK, except for spring loaded stuff. That gets me everytime, even when I can see there are springs on the part. Luckily I did read the manual right after the screw up.


I removed the lock plate off the "self-adjusting" pressure plate before putting it on the flywheel. I even had the pressure plate all installed before I read the manual and figured out I made a huge mistake. My new pressure plate now had springs (for the adjusting ring) that were completly extended with no tension on the ring at all. Luckily I read how to reset it without a special $1,000,000 BMW tool. I pressed the splines down far enough to get the lock plate back on the splines and then used a small screwdriver to spin the adjusting ring and compress the springs as much as possible. Then inserted a punch to hold the adjusting ring in place. Reinstalled the pressure plate and torqued. Removed the locking ring off the spline and then the punch and the adjusting ring stayed in position with the springs compressed like in "A". Hopefully I am good to go.




For the throwout bearing, glad I read this post

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=788160

The two different positions you can use is not a choice if you are in the USA. Use the wrong one and you'll be doing another clutch change much sooner than expected.


10 hours in to this evalution and all I got done was taking everything apart, new flywheel and clutch/pressure plate on and ready, all the linkages parts I wanted to change done as well as the throwout bearing. Just need to get the tranny back on and so on.

Paying someone else to do it doesn't sound that bad anymore. This would have been 1000 times easier if I had put my car on a lift. I even have access to a lift, but thought shoring it to get my car on (wheels on lift) was too much trouble......plus I wasn't sure how long I'd be allowed to keep my car on it.

[fdawg4l]

Originally Posted by Casca

I removed the lock plate off the "self-adjusting" pressure plate before putting it on the flywheel. I even had the pressure plate all installed before I read the manual and figured out I made a huge mistake. My new pressure plate now had springs (for the adjusting ring) that were completly extended with no tension on the ring at all. Luckily I read how to reset it without a special $1,000,000 BMW tool. I pressed the splines down far enough to get the lock plate back on the splines and then used a small screwdriver to spin the adjusting ring and compress the springs as much as possible. Then inserted a punch to hold the adjusting ring in place. Reinstalled the pressure plate and torqued. Removed the locking ring off the spline and then the punch and the adjusting ring stayed in position with the springs compressed like in "A". Hopefully I am good to go.

....I didn't do this. I didn't even know you had to! My clutch came with 2 sheets of paper which I read and don't remember seeing anything about this. Do you have a link??

[fdawg4l]

This is my kit installed. I see the springs, but it doesn't look like each of the 3 had any kind of shim to remove. The one on the bottom does look suspect, though.

cwarren? BadassBlaze? Did you guys have to do anything there?

[Casca]

Originally Posted by fdawg4l

Attachment 966479

This is my kit installed. I see the springs, but it doesn't look like each of the 3 had any kind of shim to remove. The one on the bottom does look suspect, though.

cwarren? BadassBlaze? Did you guys have to do anything there?

There are no shims for the OEM pressure plate, all I was talking about is the lock plate LUK uses. If you look at my earlier post, on pic C there is a blue plate in the center of the pressure plate. That is the lock I was talking about. I think they use to ship it without that lock plate, but had problems with the adjusting ring becoming unset in shipment. Spec might not use a lock plate. If they did, you'd know.

Also, your clutch disc looks way off center, but I guess the transmission went back on fine and everything works good so no big deal? Or maybe its just because of the angle.

[cwarren]

lock ring on pressure plate is oem only

[fdawg4l]

Optical illusion. I was under the car snapping that pic with my phone so it looks off center. Trans slid in without issue.

Thanks guys!

[CptJoe732]

I recently had a shop install my spec stage 2 clutch and everything is great like the reviews previous to mine. One concern though since I'm only around 60 miles into my break in, 2nd gear from 1.5 to around 3.5k I get this odd vibration like I'm going onto the shoulder on a highway and hit those small bumps that are supposed to wake you up. It's not that violent but it's noticeable. Only in 2nd gear though so I have no idea, spoke with the shop and they said just to go through with the break in and then well look into it. I just have absolutely no idea what it could be. Anyone have this issue?

[Dave W.]

Originally Posted by CptJoe732

I recently had a shop install my spec stage 2 clutch and everything is great like the reviews previous to mine. One concern though since I'm only around 60 miles into my break in, 2nd gear from 1.5 to around 3.5k I get this odd vibration like I'm going onto the shoulder on a highway and hit those small bumps that are supposed to wake you up. It's not that violent but it's noticeable. Only in 2nd gear though so I have no idea, spoke with the shop and they said just to go through with the break in and then well look into it. I just have absolutely no idea what it could be. Anyone have this issue?

It's a common mistake to install the carrier bearing upside down, that'll cause vibration. It should be rotated so the driveshaft fits tight against the floorpan.

[BlackBB6]

Originally Posted by fdawg4l

I think I've got everything I need. I ordered the Spec stage 2+ kit (from TGS) and the OEM DMFW (from FCPEuro [non-member, so PM if you want more info]). I'm picking up the following from Pellican to round out everything I think I'll need.

6 x 11-22-7-520-706-M9 FW to crankshaft bolts. Bentley says not to reuse these. Found the PN from realoem. Please let me know if this isn't right.

6 x 26-12-7-536-563-M9 locking nut for the guibo. Bentley says to not reuse these.

6 x 26-11-7-523-709-M9 zink nut for guibo. Again, Bentley says to use new.

5 x 23-00-0-417-164-M9 Alu bellhousing bolts.

6 x 21-20-7-548-052-M9 Pressure plate to DMFW bolts. I figured might as well pick up some new ones just in case.

1 x 33-10-7-505-604 Drive shaft seal w/ locking clip.

Did you end up using all of these?

[fdawg4l]

Originally Posted by BlackBB6

Did you end up using all of these?

Yes. And I missed some things! I didn't change any seals. I noticed there was some gear oil dripping from the selector rod. Not enough for me to care about, but it's there. I change my trans fluid yearly so a bad or leaky gasket doesn't bother me that much.

You should also add blue locktite, and the exhaust gaskets. Also see my post about the different bolts for the flex disk depending on what side you decide to disconnect.

I added a new pivot bearing from ECS tuning made of metal. Even if you decide not to upgrade the pivot bearing, it should at least be changed. Likewise, the pivot pin should also be changed.

[Casca]

These swivel head sockets proved very useful

http://www.amazon.com/Genius-Shallow...+swivel+socket

I was trying to use a swivel adaptor with the e-sockets, but that moved around a lot and also was longer than these. I think the 9/16 and 7/16 were the ones I used and they meshed up perfectly and felt solid on the torx head bolts. Torqued with no problem. Maybe less expensive ones out there, my shop had them in our "homer" tool box, so I was already good to go.

I made this to hold the flywheel. Used some scrape aluminum, I think 3 or 4mm thick, layed it under the teeth of the new flywheel and used a scribe to transfer the teeth pattern onto the aluminum and then I just cut it out with a hacksaw. Worked great. Used washers to line it up with the flywheel on the car and some nuts so I wouldn't have to screw the bolt down too much.

[CptJoe732]

Originally Posted by Dave W.

It's a common mistake to install the carrier bearing upside down, that'll cause vibration. It should be rotated so the driveshaft fits tight against the floorpan.

That'll cause a vibration at one set rpm in one certain gear?