[BluesDriver]

Has anyone used the FK scissor jack sold by ECS Tuning? There sales person told me it would fit in the e92 jack pocket but when I look at the picture it's hard to believe.

You can look at it here:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-328...ire/ES1866579/

Is there another alternative instead of scary looking articulated e46 jack or the overpriced $150 ratchet BMW scissor jack kit?

[ECSTuning]

The FK jack is actually almost identical in size to the jack found in the BMW Jack Set. Below is a photo of the BMW jack set



So if the stock jack would fit in your car then the FK Jack (found HERE) should also slide into the same slot.

James with ECS

[BluesDriver]

Thanks for the reply. I believe the pocket on the car is around 2.25 by 1.25 inches and I guess it's just the picture that makes the saddle of the jack look no where near that dimension. If anything it looks wider in the dimension that should be more narrow.

Do you by any chance have a picture of the FK jack from the top view?

[ECSTuning]

I just poked my head into the photo booth. They look slammed but I sent in the request for a top side shot. Hopefully they'll be able to get one for you soon.

ECS Tuning

[ECSTuning]

I asked for a pic of the top of the jack and this is what they sent me. Hopefully it'll help you out.

[BluesDriver]

Thanks. From that picture the saddle is definately not the same as the jack pocket.

Inorder for it to fit in the pocket, the long dimension in that picture can only be 1.25 inches. If that is true, that jack must be extremely narrow.

In any case, thanks again and maybe I will take a chance on it working.

[triger716]

Originally Posted by ECSTuning

I asked for a pic of the top of the jack and this is what they sent me. Hopefully it'll help you out.

Now that's service.

If it helps I just measured a jack pad adapter like below and it is 2 1/8" by 1 1/8" and it fits in the jack "pocket" perfectly.



To me it looks like the jack in this thread will work fine.

[BluesDriver]

Originally Posted by triger716

Now that's service.

If it helps I just measured a jack pad adapter like below and it is 2 1/8" by 1 1/8" and it fits in the jack "pocket" perfectly.



To me it looks like the jack in this thread will work fine.

When I look at it, it seems like it would fit if the jack was turned 90 degrees. But that's not the way it should be used and would make turning the handle kind of difficult.

Also, before someone says use a real jack with that nice looking adapter, I already have something similar. This will only be for emergency use.

[El Cheapo Loco]

I have a scissor jack from a 1984 Toyota Corolla that fits perfectly in the jack pocket. Exact fit, no movement at all.

[triger716]

Originally Posted by BluesDriver

When I look at it, it seems like it would fit if the jack was turned 90 degrees. But that's not the way it should be used and would make turning the handle kind of difficult.

Also, before someone says use a real jack with that nice looking adapter, I already have something similar. This will only be for emergency use.

I see what you are saying now and it looks like you are correct. It looks like the jack would in fact be sideways, and you wouldn't be able to turn the handle. I got confused by what you meant when you said the long dimension should be 1.25 inches. I assumed you thought the short dimension should be even shorter than that, but I see now what you meant that the top of the jack would need to be flipped 90 degrees in order to work and it does look fixed in place.

Oh, and use a real jack and jack stands unless it is an emergency tire change.

[sonicbimmer19]

Originally Posted by BluesDriver

Has anyone used the FK scissor jack sold by ECS Tuning? There sales person told me it would fit in the e92 jack pocket but when I look at the picture it's hard to believe.

You can look at it here:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-328...ire/ES1866579/

Is there another alternative instead of scary looking articulated e46 jack or the overpriced $150 ratchet BMW scissor jack kit?

Scissor jack is convenient but not nearly as stable and safe as jack stands, right? I need to either buy ramps, jack stands and jack, or scissor jacks and not sure which

[I M LEGEND]

Originally Posted by sonicbimmer19

Scissor jack is convenient but not nearly as stable and safe as jack stands, right? I need to either buy ramps, jack stands and jack, or scissor jacks and not sure which

A scissor jack is only good when you're in bind...such as changing a flat tire on the road. It is designed to lift the car temporarily.

Jackstands should always be used when going underneath the car. Jackstands do not lift...they only support the vehicle.

You should get both jack and jack stands.

http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-p...html-7814.html

[smass]

Another option is to get a E39 jack, wrench and chock. People are always parting out old 5 series on craigs list so they are easy to get. I got mine for $10.

[sonicbimmer19]

Originally Posted by I M LEGEND

A scissor jack is only good when you're in bind...such as changing a flat tire on the road. It is designed to lift the car temporarily.

Jackstands should always be used when going underneath the car. Jackstands do not lift...they only support the vehicle.

You should get both jack and jack stands.

http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-p...html-7814.html

Thanks for the reply.
For the jack you linked, does the rubber pad on the jack make it unnecessary to buy the adapter for the rectangular plastic jack receivers on our cars?
Thanks

[Eric335]

Originally Posted by sonicbimmer19

Thanks for the reply.
For the jack you linked, does the rubber pad on the jack make it unnecessary to buy the adapter for the rectangular plastic jack receivers on our cars?
Thanks

The saddle on the jack will still chew up your jack-points, since once is a large circle and one is a smaller rectangle. To jack it up from the sides, you should use the adaptor (its not expensive). That jack will also be able to lift the car up from middle of the car and the rear-differential. Just sayin

[sonicbimmer19]

Originally Posted by Eric335

The saddle on the jack will still chew up your jack-points, since once is a large circle and one is a smaller rectangle. To jack it up from the sides, you should use the adaptor (its not expensive). That jack will also be able to lift the car up from middle of the car and the rear-differential. Just sayin

Thanks for the reply. I'll get that jack and an adapter from ECS tuning for jack points. I just need to decide which jack to buy, a few options

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Eric335

The saddle on the jack will still chew up your jack-points, since once is a large circle and one is a smaller rectangle. To jack it up from the sides, you should use the adaptor (its not expensive). That jack will also be able to lift the car up from middle of the car and the rear-differential. Just sayin

I disagree with this. If the lifting pads are being torn up by the jack cradle, then the jack is not properly rolling underneath the car as it raises it. The reason saddle-style floor jacks have wheels is so it will roll in toward and under the car as the car is lifted. If the jack is not rolling properly, then it is pulling on the lifting pad, which is a dangerous situation.

The difference between a high-quality jack, and a cheap-ass jack is how well it rolls under load. If there is one tool in your life you buy that should be of the highest quality it is a floor jack. You've bought one of the best cars in the world, why would you buy a cheap-ass $59 Harbor Freight jack to lift your $45K car and risk your life doing it? Send the money and get the proper low-profile, long-saddle jack that lifts the chassis from the front and rear center jack points and set the car on four jackstands, one under each lifting point on the rocker panel. This is the safest way to properly lift and work on the car using a floor jack. The car should always be on four jackstands if you are going to be underneath it because it then cannot roll off the jackstands.

[Eric335]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I disagree with this. If the lifting pads are being torn up by the jack cradle, then the jack is not properly rolling underneath the car as it raises it. The reason saddle-style floor jacks have wheels is so it will roll in toward and under the car as the car is lifted. If the jack is not rolling properly, then it is pulling on the lifting pad, which is a dangerous situation.

The difference between a high-quality jack, and a cheap-ass jack is how well it rolls under load. If there is one tool in your life you buy that should be of the highest quality it is a floor jack. You've bought one of the best cars in the world, why would you buy a cheap-ass $59 Harbor Freight jack to lift your $45K car and risk your life doing it? Send the money and get the proper low-profile, long-saddle jack that lifts the chassis from the front and rear center jack points and set the car on four jackstands, one under each lifting point on the rocker panel. This is the safest way to properly lift and work on the car using a floor jack. The car should always be on four jackstands if you are going to be underneath it because it then cannot roll off the jackstands.

Im more of talking about how the metal lip will mess up the rubber/plastic boots behind the front two wheels. If you jack the car up very often, ive seen them foul up and get nasty (With a normal high-quality aluminum jack too). Just saying my experience, but thanks for the info!

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Eric335

Im more of talking about how the metal lip will mess up the rubber/plastic boots behind the front two wheels. If you jack the car up very often, ive seen them foul up and get nasty (With a normal high-quality aluminum jack too). Just saying my experience, but thanks for the info!

It's all good. The lifting points are about 10 each and easily replicable, and are sort of meant to be consumables in some respect. I use a car lift to work on my car. The lifting pads are in very good shape after 50 or so lifts. The left rear pad is a bit damaged but that is just because it drags going up the apron into the garage but it is still totally useable. I think a lot of people here have some idea that every part of their car should be in pristine condition, like it is going to be judged at the concourse de 'elegance.

I mean the pads are just hunks of plastic that snap onto the rocker panel so to protect the rocker from damage when lifting the car.

[WallyF]

I have gone to non RFTs and want to get a temporary spare and jack kit. I have investigated jack kits on www.realOEM.com and Tischer at www.getBMWparts.com and determined that the jack kit gets pretty expensive. Also, I looked at Bavauto.com

The E90 Lifting Jack Set from RealOEM.com is BMW#71 10 6 773 536. It has a MSRP of $170 and is $140 at Tischer. This includes a scissor jack, torque wrench, gloves and a wheel chock. Bavauto has this for $167.50.

Really all that is needed is a jack, chock and lug wrench.

1) Lug wrench(Crank) from an E46, BMW #71 12 1 179 953, is available from getBMWparts.com(Tischer) for $12.66.
2) Wheel chock, BMW # 71111179052 is $9.97 from Tischer.
3) Articulating Jack from an E46, BMW # 71 12 6 757 131 is $72.32.

I was in Harbor Freight today and saw their scissor jack for only $17.95, normally $24.95. I looked it up on their website. One reviewer said that the jack fits the E90.

Here is a link to Harbor Freight for their scissor jack :
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ack-66907.html

Wallyf