[shnaggs]

Since I got my car, end of this past summer, the turbo oil feed lines have been coated in oil. Knowing that sometime soon I would need to replace them.

Well this weekend I was installing my Forge intercooler hose, and playing around with mocking up a new air intake. So I had everything apart and noticed that the one oil feed line was leaking pretty bad, and it appears to be the one that is a royal PITA to get to, as per Yozh!

I searched and it doesn't seem like many have had to replace this hose. I'm wondering if anyone has, and if so, do you have any pointers???

Also, it seems like loosening the turbos is a must to get the banjo bolt out of the block. Damn, maybe I should just through some hybrids on there while I have everything apart

[HeatherM35d]

Originally Posted by shnaggs

Since I got my car, end of this past summer, the turbo oil feed lines have been coated in oil. Knowing that sometime soon I would need to replace them.

Well this weekend I was installing my Forge intercooler hose, and playing around with mocking up a new air intake. So I had everything apart and noticed that the one oil feed line was leaking pretty bad, and it appears to be the one that is a royal PITA to get to, as per Yozh!

I searched and it doesn't seem like many have had to replace this hose. I'm wondering if anyone has, and if so, do you have any pointers???

Also, it seems like loosening the turbos is a must to get the banjo bolt out of the block. Damn, maybe I should just through some hybrids on there while I have everything apart

Oil line isn't that bad to get at.. You're talking the supply to the top turbo correct? This was leaking badly on my x5

[shnaggs]

Its #1 and #2. I guess #1 is the one that's a PITA


http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_3980

[sukutash]

Originally Posted by shnaggs

Its #1 and #2. I guess #1 is the one that's a PITA


http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_3980

Yes #1 would be the winner (pain in the @*^). I changed #2 about a year sooner than #1 and #3. #2, the shortest one in the shape of a U atop the hp turbo, seems to leak much sooner that #1 and #3. Approx. a year later I noticed a slight leak with #3 and just decided to r&r the other 2 remaining hoses.

#2 and #3 are very easy to r&r, #1 on the other hand is very labor intensive as the turbos must be removed, well at least the smaller hp turbo. I got by with loosening the larger turbo which gave me JUST enough room to curse every damn thing under the sky to get the banjo bolt and washers in. A member on the forum performed the same job, but removed the turbos and a/c compressor to get it done. This is a case where hand size and finger length can change the game! I decided to go ahead and change them before any leaking because I did not want to loose oil pressure from a sudden rupture and be stranded.

[shnaggs]

Originally Posted by sukutash

Yes #1 would be the winner (pain in the @*^). I changed #2 about a year sooner than #1 and #3. #2, the shortest one in the shape of a U atop the hp turbo, seems to leak much sooner that #1 and #3. Approx. a year later I noticed a slight leak with #3 and just decided to r&r the other 2 remaining hoses.

#2 and #3 are very easy to r&r, #1 on the other hand is very labor intensive as the turbos must be removed, well at least the smaller hp turbo. I got by with loosening the larger turbo which gave me JUST enough room to curse every damn thing under the sky to get the banjo bolt and washers in. A member on the forum performed the same job, but removed the turbos and a/c compressor to get it done. This is a case where hand size and finger length can change the game! I decided to go ahead and change them before any leaking because I did not want to loose oil pressure from a sudden rupture and be stranded.

Yeah I'm thinking the same thing, want to take care of it before it ruptures. #2 is wet, but #1 is weeping oil.
Man I am not looking forward to this...

[locolobo]

I have 66k and I'm going to have it apart (including DPF off) soon for some exhaust work. My 2009 was built in 8-2008. Appreciate any feed back on whether I should replace all 3 now as PM.

[Yozh]

Replacing #1 will require unbolting the turbos, both. You really need about a half an inch clearance between the low pressure turbine (or may be it was a compressor hosing) housing and a block, but to unbolt the low pressure, you need to unbolt the high pressure. The good news is, you do not need to remove them just take the bolts off and give a slight nudge. In my case I have also unfolded the a/c compressor and removed it's bracket, but the need for it is debatable as I do not remember all the aspects of this painful process. If I would do it again, I would replace with a race-quality oil feed line like Earl's, so I do not ever have to do it again.

[Yozh]

Here is a pic to show you how much clearance you will be working with. Top of the photo is front of the car. The aluminum piece in the forefront is the a/c bracket.

[locolobo]

Oh joy! I will give an inspection before unbolting all that hardware to do hose#1. I could mess something else up or waste a lot of time maybe exceed the benefits of replacing a good part.

[335dsleeper]

I just purchased all the hoses from getmwparts, I think it was around $200 for the 3 lines and all the copper crush washers.

[sukutash]

I'd also recommend replacing the o-rings/packing for the piping that route the turbos compressed air. I believe there are 3.

[Chief Orman]

Originally Posted by sukutash

I'd also recommend replacing the o-rings/packing for the piping that route the turbos compressed air. I believe there are 3.

guys did you install heavier duty components to prevent future failure.

[sukutash]

I replaced with OEM components.

[MooLard]

Hi there, I am going to replace the u-shaped pipe this weekend, so part 2 on that diagram. I have ordered new copper sealing washers too, four in total so am set to do the task, any tips on doing this as I can't see very much at all with the engine cover on and I really need to do the job from start to finish in one sitting.
I don't have a low measuring torque wrench either, any pointers on doing the hollow bolts up the right amount? I will do my best to feel how hard they are done up I guess. I can see access is easy for the front most one but cannot see the rear one at all yet.

On an aside note I am replacing the boost pipe seals at the same time in the bid to keep all oils in the engine as opposed to finding their way on to the undertray and then drive.

[Yozh]

Make sure you work with a cold engine. I would suggest you have a torque wrench. Yes, you will have to remove the engine cover. The heat shield over the turbo you can undo at the few front points and then you will have enough room to reach the back connection. Be careful not to drop the copper washers. Do replace them as well. When you are tightening the banjo bolts, make sure you keep the hose ends steady as not to place undue stress on the oil feed line. It has to be torqued such that the hose is not stretched.

[BB_cuda]

Based on picture from post #8, it appears a normal socket can't go over end of screw. Yozh, did you have to use a crow's foot to torque it or is picture just fooling me? It looks crowded up against adjacent aluminum piping (guessing that is turbo plumbing, looks like aluminum casting).

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Based on picture from post #8, it appears a normal socket can't go over end of screw. Yozh, did you have to use a crow's foot to torque it or is picture just fooling me? It looks crowded up against adjacent aluminum piping (guessing that is turbo plumbing, looks like aluminum casting).

Picture is fooling you. That picture in post #8 shows a banjo connection at the block feed into line #1 that goes to a distribution block up above before it splits into two oil feed lines. Line #1 is an absolute b### to replace and needs a/c compressor and it's bracket unhooked, as well as turbos.

MooLard wants to replace pipe #2 that is a short u-shape one feeds high pressure (small) turbo post the distribution block. This one is easy to replace and will take normal sockets 13mm I believe.

[Hockey13]

I just did the oil pipe (#2) in about 15 minutes. Had to leave on a trip so bit the bullet and paid out of pocket vs. Having bmw pick it up under warranty. Anyways, part way thorough u thought of making a DIY video. . I'll try to post it tomorrow... In short:

Remove front portion of engine cover. Remove top bolt that holds heat shield. Bend back heart shield to access oil pipe bolt. Remove bot connecting pipe in each end. Remove crush washers. Pit back together. You can feel the washers "crush" while fastening back down. Torn a little tighter (on hand tight). Bolt back up the heat shield and engine cover. Be careful with vacuum hose lines. From start to finish less than 15 minutes.

[MooLard]

Brilliant thank you very much for the fuller details on replacing this part, it's nice to go in to a job prepared! I did actually order 5 metres of yellow silicone vac hose (3mm) to replace what I can see and reach easily, if it is that quick to do then I might see about accessing the pressure converters to do the whole lot of vac pipes. We shall see.

[Hockey13]

Make no mistake;, I did the oil pipe (#2) not the vacuum lines yet... I didn't have any to replace the lines with at the time. In fact, I can't decide which silicone lines to buy to use... so many options in amazon/misc. Web sites. I will however use 3.5mm since, to my knowledge, is what my 2011 335d uses. Once I have the new lines (hopefully this week) I plan to change the red and black lines that run right through that #2 pipe Wednesday or Thursday next week.

[Hockey13]

Part 1:

Part 2:

Part 3:

Part 3:

[MooLard]

Excellent, thanks for taking the time and effort to upload those