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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Pictures: Electric water pump + thermostat replace



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      05-23-2016, 10:34 PM   #221
VXEric
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Just replaced mine. 2009 328i xDrive w/ 120k miles.

I removed the belly pan, stiffening plate, fan and passenger side wheel/wheel liner. Overall it took me about 3-4 hours of actual work, as was said a few times here, its really not a hard project, just time consuming and involves a lot of patience.

A few things about mine were different from what i have seen on other videos/instructions, maybe because of the year, or because of the xDrive.

1. power steering hose was attached at 3 points using a large plate. i removed all three then unbolted the plate (10mm ratcheting wrench is key here) and then slid the plate out of the way, never actually got it out from behind the sway bar

2. I didnt have to remove the swaybar until I was unbolting the water pump. Even then, I only removed the passenger side mount, it moved enough to get a socket extension under it from there.

3. I found it much easier to remove the t-stat before the water pump.

4. The hardest part for me was removing the hose coming off of the water pump (not the one going to the thermostat). It took some careful prying and moving it slowly off from a few angles.
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      06-23-2016, 04:01 PM   #222
natedog7700
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124,500 miles here. In the process of replacing it! PITA but honestly isn't more than a 2 hr job...
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      06-28-2016, 03:04 PM   #223
Bory E90
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I received an overheating warning on my dash so 10 mins into driving in the morning and suspect the coolant isn't running. I got to work and read up on here how to vent the coolant to hear the water pump running and proceed to give it a try. I didn't hear any jet like sound but instead I heard a noise that sounds like a frog lol. I'm guessing my WP just croaked and choke T_T
Anyways has anyone had this sound coming out of the WP before? Here's a video: https://youtu.be/oAAtrvrcdGU

Update: I've just replace the WP/Tstat on my 335xi. The hardest part was removing those plates holding the power steering lines to get the sway bars down lol. It was harder to place them back and I kept on dropping the damn screw into the subframe which I had to fish for with the magnetic tool! I didn't need any special angle or long extension tools. As long as you drop the sway bar, remove fan, passenger wheel and guard it will be enough to do the job.

Last edited by Bory E90; 06-30-2016 at 09:43 AM.
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      07-17-2016, 10:42 AM   #224
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Another victim here with a 98k mile 2007 335xi. We got 3 miles from home when the yellow warning indicator quickly followed by the red indicator and the engine going into safe mode less than 30 seconds later. The engine was already warm from ~100 miles of driving an hour earlier in the day. I quickly pulled over and there was just the beginning of some coolant that forced its way out of the expansion tank.

After a flatbed ride home I let the car cool off for a few hours and confirmed there was still sufficient fluid in the expansion tank. I then ran the self-bleed routine and the pump sounds like a bull frog and no coolant is circulating. Joy.

Anything else I should replace while under there?


water pump + 3 bolts
thermostat housing
water pump to thermostat hose
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      07-18-2016, 03:18 PM   #225
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Parts on their way from BavAuto which was ~$100 less than the local dealer.
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      08-15-2016, 08:34 AM   #226
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2011 E92 xDrive

I put the car on ramps, removed the plastic bits and basically said "Oh shit. This looks nothing like the videos online."

I'm trying to decide whether I gave up too easily (and to make another try myself) or need to just take it to a shop. At this point I have a communications error and low power faults (2E83 and 2E85) and am replacing the pump and thermostat on my terms instead of waiting for an all out failure. I am an experienced DIY mechanic, having pulled engines and done other major work. Granted, it was on cars from the 1960s, but it is not my first rodeo.

The main problem is that I cannot see the back of the pump at all. It is hidden under various structure (i.e., the sub frame) that is specific to the xDrive models. I can see all the bolts - can I get the pump out without access to the back hose? How about the thermostat - what's hidden on that and how do I get to those?

Lacking a lift, I do not want to get myself into a situation where I have the car half apart and then find I have to do something I'm not equipped for. And I live 50 miles from the nearest shop I would trust with a BMW,

I have no problem removing the fan. I would be very nervous removing a front wheel with the car on ramps as it sounds dangerous. Is it necessary and, if so, should I use jack stands instead?

Any other specifics for the xDrive would be appreciated.

Al
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      08-15-2016, 09:03 AM   #227
scorp508
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My '07 xDrive was a pain in the neck, much more complicated than the videos, but doable with a lot of patience. I got at the rear hoses primarily through the front passenger side wheel well after removing the wheel and fender liner. I also removed the radiator fan to get some more front to back clearance which made removing the pump slightly easier.

On mine the hardest thing to get at where the two 10mm bolts on top of the subframe cross member that hold the power steering line brackets on. With those brackets in place the sway bar will not rotate down and out of the way. The two 10mm bolts (one per bracket) were made easier with a short ratcheting 10mm wrench as I couldn't even see the bolts and was doing it all by feel.
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      08-16-2016, 07:56 PM   #228
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Thanks for the info. I'll definitely use jack stands in that case.

How long did it take you?

Al
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      08-28-2016, 09:50 AM   #229
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Well, I did it.

Backed the car onto a pair of ramps and then jacked the front up and supported it on jack stands, Gave me a lot more clearance. Didn't need to remove the fender well, just remove the wheel.

The difficult bits were:
1. The rear hose for the pump. Not the one that loops back to the thermostat but what I assume is the outlet. Took me nearly an hour of different angles and plans e, f, and g (cut the hose clamp off) to figure out that the clamp was clocked in a way I could access the screw from a specific blind angle. A large collection of 1/4 drive extensions (which I had accumulated from numerous sets that had lost important parts over the years) is really handy here.

2. Remember the order of the sway bar and power steering hose. You can't get the bolt on for the PS bracket with the sway bar attached, but it must go above the bracket. I actually bent the bracket down to create a little more clearance for my hands and bent it back into shape when I was done.

3. The sway bar was difficult to bolt back on as the wheels must have sagged while it was disconnected. Vice grips closed the gap for the lower bolts, but, oddly, when I went to remove the jack stands, the car stayed up in the air after I removed right one and I then could not jack the left side up high enough to remove the remaining stand. Jacking from the center on the sub frame solved that problem.

4. This job is really hard for an overweight 62 year old guy mostly lying on the floor. A lift would make it much easier - and cleaner.

5. The plastic parts are still off the bottom. Since I took them off 3 weeks ago I could not remember where they all went and I didn't feel like going to my office to look it up given the state of filth of my clothes and body.

Took me about 6 hours.

Al
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