[BavarianBullet]

Hi folks,

I'm a forum and BMW noob having received my first BMW 2 weeks ago and lurking on various forums for a while now.

Yesterday I attempted a CDV removal on my 335xi because 1) the car is undriveable IMO as delivered from BMW with that stupid CDV in there 2) every post on the internet made the removal of the CDV sound pretty easy.

Well, the CDV removal was relatively easy...it's the bleeding the hydraulic line at the slave cylinder that was next to impossible. I think the part that got me was that on a 335 XI, there is a driveshaft running along the area where it would be nice to stick one's hands to access the bleeder nut on the slave cylinder.

So I would have removed the DS but of course it was bolted up using "polydrive" (reverse torx, inverted star WTF) bolts. So I wasn't going to easily take that off without some tool shopping.

The bleeder on the slave was pretty well wedged in high up in the trans tunnel recess in the floorpan and I tried to bleed it by swinging the 11mm wrench about 1-2cm at a time as that was the max room. Ugh. Not only that but the damned bleeder is PLASTIC. (WTF possesed some idiot to make a hard to reach fastener from ABS plastic I'll never know.)

I was able to bleed the line with some help from my wife depressing the clutch pedal while I moved the wrench as best I could. But after about the 3rd or 4th round of bleeding, the stupid bleeder nipple broke off. WTF

Suffice it to say I was a little pissed but I'd like to ask a question or two if I may:
1) Has anyone else been bold enough to try this on an XI and fared better than I?
2) Does anyone think I've got a shot at buying just the OEM bleeder screw without buying the whole slave cylinder? How about a metal bleeder!?!

Thanks for reading my intro/rant. Hopefully I can contribute as much as others- I've learned quite a bit from this forum and others. Thanks!

[David1]

Are you sure it broke off and not just all the way out? You can probably buy the bleader, but you will probably need to remove the slave to get the rest of the bleeder out and get the new one in. I just did my 335 and what a pain to bleed it. Yoy must have the car level or you won't get all the air out.

[RBBMWE46M3]

Originally Posted by BavarianBullet

Hi folks,

I'm a forum and BMW noob having received my first BMW 2 weeks ago and lurking on various forums for a while now.

Yesterday I attempted a CDV removal on my 335xi because 1) the car is undriveable IMO as delivered from BMW with that stupid CDV in there 2) every post on the internet made the removal of the CDV sound pretty easy.

Well, the CDV removal was relatively easy...it's the bleeding the hydraulic line at the slave cylinder that was next to impossible. I think the part that got me was that on a 335 XI, there is a driveshaft running along the area where it would be nice to stick one's hands to access the bleeder nut on the slave cylinder.

So I would have removed the DS but of course it was bolted up using "polydrive" (reverse torx, inverted star WTF) bolts. So I wasn't going to easily take that off without some tool shopping.

The bleeder on the slave was pretty well wedged in high up in the trans tunnel recess in the floorpan and I tried to bleed it by swinging the 11mm wrench about 1-2cm at a time as that was the max room. Ugh. Not only that but the damned bleeder is PLASTIC. (WTF possesed some idiot to make a hard to reach fastener from ABS plastic I'll never know.)

I was able to bleed the line with some help from my wife depressing the clutch pedal while I moved the wrench as best I could. But after about the 3rd or 4th round of bleeding, the stupid bleeder nipple broke off. WTF

Suffice it to say I was a little pissed but I'd like to ask a question or two if I may:
1) Has anyone else been bold enough to try this on an XI and fared better than I?
2) Does anyone think I've got a shot at buying just the OEM bleeder screw without buying the whole slave cylinder? How about a metal bleeder!?!

Thanks for reading my intro/rant. Hopefully I can contribute as much as others- I've learned quite a bit from this forum and others. Thanks!

GREAT POST...I was just gunna order my new dv and now Im having second thoughts...

[RBBMWE46M3]

would a longer 11mm wrench helped? or an off-set wrench helped? I really want to replace my oem dv...Ive got those two wrenches and do you think it will help the bleeding process?

[Former_Boosted_IS]

With respect to bleeding the system, I strugged the first time. What I learned quickly is:

1. You must pump clutch pedal a bunch of times to get to pressurize the clutch system.

2. Watch that brake fluid reservoir very closely because only half of it is partitioned to the clutch. Fill it constantly as you see it fall while pumping the clutch. If you do this, then the job is SO much easier. You will eliminate introducing much air into the system.

[BavarianBullet]

Thanks for the tip on pumping the clutch Former_Boosted_IS. I'm guessing I have some air in mine still but it's tough to say without another MT 335 around to compare clutches. Hopefully I'll get another shot at it but for now it seems to drive ok, doesn't feel spongy.

RBBMWE46M3 I'm not certain if the 335XI has the same slave and bleeder setup as 335I. They may be different since the trans is somewhat different.

Either way, the bleeder is extremely tough to reach on the XI and there's just no way to swing a normal (relatively small) 11mm wrench in there. I kept hitting the clutch hydraulic line so I removed the lower slave cylinder mounting nut to free a bracket that attached to said line. I put the nut back on (to keep the slave from coming out when depressing the clutch), tied the line out of the way with some string and that helped a little. Still, I had to use a 12 point box end wrench putting the box over the bleeder and trying my best to wrestle it with two fingers to get it to move. If I had a spare junk wrench I could saw down to 3-4" that would have likely helped.

Anyways, my work slightly chewed up the plastic bleeder so be careful there. I also found that it was a much better idea to use an 11mm (6pt) socket and rachet with 6" extension and universal joint to break the bleeder loose then mess around with the wrench. Had I tried to break the bleeder loose with the wrench, I could see myself ruining the edges on the bleeder.

[NM_BMW]

I did my 335xi with no problems at all. Instead of bleeding the system I just clamped the line, put the new cdv in put the hose back on and unclamped. Clutch feels perfectly fine. Even if you do have a small amount of air in the system it will eventually work its way out to the top of the reservoir anyhow. I did however have to pump the brake to pressurize the system again, and my clutch pedal came right back up from the floor and have had zero problems.

[RBBMWE46M3]

Originally Posted by Humtek

I did my 335xi with no problems at all. Instead of bleeding the system I just clamped the line, put the new cdv in put the hose back on and unclamped. Clutch feels perfectly fine. Even if you do have a small amount of air in the system it will eventually work its way out to the top of the reservoir anyhow. I did however have to pump the brake to pressurize the system again, and my clutch pedal came right back up from the floor and have had zero problems.

do you have a preference on the best cdv?

[rooster3.0]

Originally Posted by RBBMWE46M3

do you have a preference on the best cdv?

I'm pretty sure everyone just sells a hollowed out oem cdv.

[NM_BMW]

Originally Posted by rooster3.0

I'm pretty sure everyone just sells a hollowed out oem cdv.

Exactly! I ordered one from Riss Racing, but other vendors offer them too.

[BavarianBullet]

Humtek,

I'm glad you were able to get the CDV in without issue- I did ok too. The valve isn't the problem; it took me maybe 15min once the car was up on jackstands. The bleeding is the @#%$^!#$.

I tried the clamp thing without much luck (it leaked) so just put my finger on the hose and popped it back together. I used the no CDV option.

[adc]

I have a set of closed reversible ratchet wrenches from Sears (Craftsman) - do you think something like that would fit over the bleeder screw?

Like this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...sName=Wrenches

Or this, longer handle: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...sName=Wrenches

[satakal]

Originally Posted by adc

I have a set of closed reversible ratchet wrenches from Sears (Craftsman) - do you think something like that would fit over the bleeder screw?

Like this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...sName=Wrenches

Or this, longer handle: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...sName=Wrenches

that second option looks so, so money, but there is no "11" in there.

Edit: HA! There is no "11" in that first set either. Home Depot, Husky, Closed end set with the jog in it will do. For a non-Xi. Set was like 10 or 20 bucks.
________
MissTarja

[adc]

Originally Posted by satakal

that second option looks so, so money, but there is no "11" in there.

Edit: HA! There is no "11" in that first set either. Home Depot, Husky, Closed end set with the jog in it will do. For a non-Xi. Set was like 10 or 20 bucks.

Heh - I wasn't paying attention I guess - just wanted to show the type of tool. I actually purchased individual wrenches, say like this one:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0P?vName=Tools

Or this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0P?vName=Tools

Or this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0P?vName=Tools

[Mr. 5]

Do you know what size the bleeder valve is that you have?
I changed all my beeleder valves on my calipers to speed bleeders so I can bleed them myself.
It's much much easier to bleed the line by:

- just taking whatever wrench to the valve,
- loosen it
- get in the car and pump the line a couple times
- tighten it back up

Can you not get any tool up in there?

[satakal]

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Why is it that you always find the easy (or budget) way to do something AFTER you finally plop down dollars for the "smart" way? I just bought a pressure brake bleeder today.

I'll bet the speedbleeder guys will know what P/N you'd need for your brakes, but would have no idea on the P/N for the clutch nipple.
________
LIVE SEX WEBSHOWS

[BavarianBullet]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

Do you know what size the bleeder valve is that you have?
I changed all my bleeder valves on my calipers to speed bleeders so I can bleed them myself.
It's much much easier to bleed the line by:

- just taking whatever wrench to the valve,
- loosen it
- get in the car and pump the line a couple times
- tighten it back up

Can you not get any tool up in there?

Mr5 you devil...why do you have to point out what would have worked great after I try the hard way!

It's a fantastic idea!

Now the only problem is that I think my clutch circuit is fine so there's no real need to unscrew the bleeder and invite Murphy's Law over to my garage so it can spank my bottom again.

FWIW I could reach the bleeder with my finger tips so with a little bit of cursing I'm fairly sure I could get the old bleeder out and a new one in without pulling the forward driveshaft. The only complication is what size bleeder does the slave have and does speed bleeder make one to fit. The OEM one was pretty wide at 11mm (7/16").

Thanks for the idea- it warrants further investigation IMO.

[BavarianBullet]

Originally Posted by adc

Heh - I wasn't paying attention I guess - just wanted to show the type of tool. I actually purchased individual wrenches, say like this one:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0P?vName=Tools

Or this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0P?vName=Tools

Or this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0P?vName=Tools

FWIW 7/16" is basically 11mm- I've used it a zillion times while working on cars inc countless 5.0 Mustangs in the 90s.

I like the speed bleeder idea of Mr5 1000 times more though. If I can get the size of the clutch slave female threads the bleeder fits into I may try and fit a SB (and hopefully not invite disaster).

[fuzzy123]

soooooooooooo... I ended up braking my bleeder valve nipple as well.... anyone have an answer for this question?

"2) Does anyone think I've got a shot at buying just the OEM bleeder screw without buying the whole slave cylinder? How about a metal bleeder!?!"

[NatesGr8]

Originally Posted by Humtek

I did my 335xi with no problems at all. Instead of bleeding the system I just clamped the line, put the new cdv in put the hose back on and unclamped. Clutch feels perfectly fine. Even if you do have a small amount of air in the system it will eventually work its way out to the top of the reservoir anyhow. I did however have to pump the brake to pressurize the system again, and my clutch pedal came right back up from the floor and have had zero problems.

That all i've done for the cdv install. Clamping the line is a must for any cdv install. when the modified valve is in, pumping the breaks and clutch a few times will then stiffen the clutch back up.

Sorry to hear about your troubles, but hopefully this will benefit future xi cdv installs.

Nate

[NatesGr8]

Originally Posted by fuzzy123

soooooooooooo... I ended up braking my bleeder valve nipple as well.... anyone have an answer for this question?

"2) Does anyone think I've got a shot at buying just the OEM bleeder screw without buying the whole slave cylinder? How about a metal bleeder!?!"

you should be able to fine the bleeder screw at an auto parts store.

[Tochenzo]

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I broke the bleeder valve on my 135i and was wondering if you guys figured out what size the nipple with.