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      11-21-2012, 08:41 AM   #1
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Easiest way to change turbo oil line gaskets, ANYBODY?

Well recently found out my oil lines are leaking, I bought new gaskets and ready to change them out, but there is so much s**t in the way, both bottom and top. Anybody done this before? I searched the forum and couldn't find any DIYs on this, whats the easiest way to do this without removing a million things?
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      11-21-2012, 11:20 AM   #2
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Remove Dps, steering rack and passenger side motor mount and all should be easy to get to. If you go this far you might as well get some orings on replace O-rings on lower coolant lines to.
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      11-21-2012, 11:22 AM   #3
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My oil lines going to the Turbo were leaking as well... The dealer charged me $1635.84.... The lines were cheap $221.50, and labor was $1414.34


Good luck
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      11-21-2012, 01:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O HELLA BMW View Post
My oil lines going to the Turbo were leaking as well... The dealer charged me $1635.84.... The lines were cheap $221.50, and labor was $1414.34


Good luck
that is BS...I could fix that in 3 hours and for about $8.00 in parts.....even if the lines where cracked...replacing them takes maybe 15 mins once you are there...lines are expensive but probably not broke/cracked.
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      11-21-2012, 04:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O HELLA BMW
My oil lines going to the Turbo were leaking as well... The dealer charged me $1635.84.... The lines were cheap $221.50, and labor was $1414.34


Good luck
Holy crap.
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      11-22-2012, 03:27 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric335 View Post
Holy crap.
That is such BS....that is equivalant to a turbo install....WOW!!
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      11-22-2012, 02:46 PM   #7
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more work than i was hoping for, haha, but i guess i will get started this weekend, thanks robc1976
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      11-22-2012, 05:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwharton85 View Post
more work than i was hoping for, haha, but i guess i will get started this weekend, thanks robc1976
did they say if it was the lower or top oil lines? If it is the top, it is more work. Remove Dps , unbolt steering rack and you are there.
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      11-23-2012, 10:33 AM   #9
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I came to the conclusion myself, I was changing the oil and noticed that the under pan was covered in oil. So I took it off and followed the trail up to the turbos, the one I could see anyways it was covered in oil.
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      11-23-2012, 11:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwharton85 View Post
I came to the conclusion myself, I was changing the oil and noticed that the under pan was covered in oil. So I took it off and followed the trail up to the turbos, the one I could see anyways it was covered in oil.
Keep in mind a valve cover will do the same, and leak in the exact same area...any smoke on the passenger side of the motor?
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      11-23-2012, 12:45 PM   #11
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yep, every once in a while. First noticed it coming in from the ac vents after a 2 month trip on a ship to Germany. at first I thought it was the OCC I installed, thinking maybe the hose from the PCV came off or something. I guess I will just spray everything down with brake parts cleaner and run it to see exactly where she is leaking from.
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      11-23-2012, 12:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwharton85 View Post
yep, every once in a while. First noticed it coming in from the ac vents after a 2 month trip on a ship to Germany. at first I thought it was the OCC I installed, thinking maybe the hose from the PCV came off or something. I guess I will just spray everything down with brake parts cleaner and run it to see exactly where she is leaking from.
had the same issues and it was a very small amount of oil dripping on turbo housing smoking, goes thru vents ect...the oil either cam from the valve over or the top oil line was leaking...I had smoke mount out of exhsust if it sat...(turbo seal). I will get you pics in a few
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      11-23-2012, 12:54 PM   #13
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great, and thanks.
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      11-23-2012, 01:21 PM   #14
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Let us know how it all goes!
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      11-23-2012, 01:42 PM   #15
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      11-23-2012, 02:29 PM   #16
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Rear one you can do just popping the right motor mount out with dps off. The front turbo forget it, will need to drop or lower subframe.
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      11-23-2012, 02:31 PM   #17
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I will be starting it tomorrow, first going to double check the valve covers.
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      11-23-2012, 02:52 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themyst View Post
Rear one you can do just popping the right motor mount out with dps off. The front turbo forget it, will need to drop or lower subframe.
yeah, front is a bitch lol!!
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      11-24-2012, 04:00 PM   #19
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Well worked on it today for several hours and several lessons learned. 1) after market down pipes can only be removed by unbolting the mounts and jaking the engine up a couple inches, which for me was a waste of time because only the front turbo was leaking. Everyone seems to think the front turbo is the killer NO THE BACK IS BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO REMOVE SO MUCH SH**. the front can easily be done by draining the coolant and removing the 8" or so U shape coolant line, if it is the turbo oil return line anyways, which was my case. After spending hours of wasted time, which now I know I could cut down to less than 2, the oil return line still freaking leaks, I think maybe the line is damaged some how because it is not getting a proper seal, I guess I will have to look into that some more.
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      11-24-2012, 05:13 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwharton85 View Post
Well worked on it today for several hours and several lessons learned. 1) after market down pipes can only be removed by unbolting the mounts and jaking the engine up a couple inches, which for me was a waste of time because only the front turbo was leaking. Everyone seems to think the front turbo is the killer NO THE BACK IS BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO REMOVE SO MUCH SH**. the front can easily be done by draining the coolant and removing the 8" or so U shape coolant line, if it is the turbo oil return line anyways, which was my case. After spending hours of wasted time, which now I know I could cut down to less than 2, the oil return line still freaking leaks, I think maybe the line is damaged some how because it is not getting a proper seal, I guess I will have to look into that some more.
Engine doesn't need to be moved at all on a 335i (maybe Xi) to get down pipes out. The oil lines run top to bottom and you will need to replace the gasket as seen below after reference pics:



Some reference pics of the lines

Front turbo front:



Front turbo rear:



Rear turbo front:



Rear turbo rear:




Oil line can be very tight, basically hard to hold in place with gasket while lining up holes, bolt in one side with the gasket on....then slide gasket over and tighten the other side:




Top oil lines join together in between turbo and the 2 way fitting... 1 side joins the lines together and the otherside pushes into the block with a o-ring seal:



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      11-24-2012, 05:15 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwharton85 View Post
Well worked on it today for several hours and several lessons learned. 1) after market down pipes can only be removed by unbolting the mounts and jaking the engine up a couple inches, which for me was a waste of time because only the front turbo was leaking. Everyone seems to think the front turbo is the killer NO THE BACK IS BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO REMOVE SO MUCH SH**. the front can easily be done by draining the coolant and removing the 8" or so U shape coolant line, if it is the turbo oil return line anyways, which was my case. After spending hours of wasted time, which now I know I could cut down to less than 2, the oil return line still freaking leaks, I think maybe the line is damaged some how because it is not getting a proper seal, I guess I will have to look into that some more.
So the lower line is leaking?
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      11-24-2012, 05:53 PM   #22
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yep, the lower line
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