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VRSF Downpipes installed BUT...
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06-06-2013, 08:50 PM | #1 |
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VRSF Downpipes installed BUT...
Ok so I finally got my long awaited VRSF downpipes installed today and I'm already anxious to break them in. Already I've noticed the sound sort of settle into a deep throatier note just in the past few drives. It sounds great! At the same time, I realize my tune is probably also adapting.
Now what I did not expect probably comes more from the install and not the DPs. But it seems that my steering wheel has become a lot tighter now. There's a very audible sound that come from turning the wheel a quarter to half of the way. I noticed it pulling into a parking space. It sounds like someone is rubbing a balloon very obnoxiously. Anyone know what this might be from? Why would my steering wheel be affected from a downpipe install?? |
06-06-2013, 08:53 PM | #2 |
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On my 135i, we had to move the steering rack to install the downpipes.
I'm guessing they moved your rack, but it didn't quite go back together properly. Go talk to the shop who did the install. |
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06-06-2013, 09:14 PM | #3 | |
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Thanks! That's a great suggestion, sounds like that could be the culprit. I hope it doesn't cause any damage til I can get it to them. |
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06-06-2013, 09:37 PM | #4 |
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Yep, you unbolt the rack from the subframe to get clearance, hard to screw up putting it back as there is no adjustment, so get it checked ASAP as the only real option is they didn't tighten the bolts or didn't put them back in at all!
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06-08-2013, 07:19 PM | #5 |
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Alright so just to close the loop on this one, the shop apparently did not remove the steering rack for the install which I thought was necessary. The heatshield seemed to be the cause of the problem and once pryed back a bit, it relieved some of the tension - I suppose from the steering rack...In any case, my steering is back to normal and the sound is gone!
Thanks for the help! |
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06-08-2013, 07:47 PM | #6 |
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Good news although from doing the install myself, it is all but impossible to do the install without taking the steering rack bolts out and moving the rack a bit - they don't take the rack out, but they do have to move it a couple inches.
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06-08-2013, 11:03 PM | #9 |
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Maybe that's what they meant then. Possibly shifted but not removed.
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06-09-2013, 09:02 AM | #10 |
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same thing happened with my VRSF install. Emailed Tiago, and he suggested a few things. Note, I also had a strong vibration. He suggests there be a 1/4" distance between the DP's and subframe. I had to adjust the midpipes slightly, and then turn the DP's to create enough of a gap. Further, the wastegate actuator can generate a "rattle" if you don't make sure the vband clamp is spun around to ensure proper clearance.
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06-09-2013, 02:41 PM | #11 | |
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also, my service engine light came on several miles after the dp install which i understand is typical. i plan to take it to another shop to have the codes read and fixed. in general the car really hauls but i'm wondering if the initial rattle on start up could potentially mean that i may have some sort of boost leak through the wastegate. btw, do you think the vband clamp may be a solution to rid the sound? any thoughts are appreciated. |
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06-09-2013, 04:11 PM | #12 | |
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06-09-2013, 04:27 PM | #13 |
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I had the same problem with these pipes. The root cause is they sit too close to the passenger side subframe.
You'll need to re-adjust so they have more clearance. I went so far as putting a big screwdriver between them and the frame before I tightened them, only removing it once all of the exhaust was back together. |
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06-09-2013, 04:28 PM | #14 | |
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Do you know if there's a way to at least reduce the rattle?? It's definitely more pronounced since the dp install. Sometimes it's hit or miss in terms of how audible it is. A few minutes ago I started it up and it was almost damn right embarrassing. I actually had a friend notice and ask why my car sounded different more recently, and not in a good way. Texas noted the vband clamp and clearance which I may have the shop look into. In any case, I hope to have the issue resolved this week.
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06-09-2013, 04:38 PM | #15 | |
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06-09-2013, 04:50 PM | #16 |
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Get the front of the car jacked up on stands or ramps then start car, us some welding gloves cause they are hot and hold one Downpipe pushing in one direction then see if noise stops, if not try pulling in other direction and see, then still if noise is there try same thing on second Downpipe. That's how I found my rattle then reposition that pipe all done!! More then likely it will be the passenger side pipe rattling on sub frame(mine was just touching the heat sheild) . Pretty tight in there!!
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06-09-2013, 05:14 PM | #17 | |
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06-09-2013, 05:54 PM | #18 | |
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One more thing if it is hitting the heat shield just take a flat head screw driver and a hammer and just tap the shield where its touching the down pipe to give you some clearance. Thats all i had to do on mine fixed the rattle in 5 minutes!!lol |
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06-09-2013, 06:24 PM | #19 | |
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06-12-2013, 10:34 AM | #20 |
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If you're installing a new set of our V2 pipes, there should be at least 3/4" of clearance on the sub frame and over 1.5" from the transmission unless the pipes weren't clocked appropriately.
I've correct an install where the person is describing similar issues to yours where the mechanic pulled the heatshield down into the passenger side steering boot and neglected to put it back up, so every time that moved laterally there was an odd metal on rubber scraping sound. Last edited by Tiago@VRSF; 06-12-2013 at 10:50 AM.. |
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06-12-2013, 12:51 PM | #21 | |
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06-12-2013, 01:23 PM | #22 | |
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The wastegate rattle is common on all N54's if you're talking about the rattle at idle/low rpms/deceleration. The OEM downpipes are dual walled and the cats do a great job of dampening the sound. |
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