[M5Rlz]

So I was just informed by my dealer that my cars new FMIC (Dinan ) is having the stock hoses pop off under WOT after multiple new clamps/ attempts to fix and was wondering if this is a common problem when replacing an FMIC?

I have no idea what they will try next, but even searching I can't find threads on this, and given how many "I love my new helix, er, ets, cobb, cpe FMIC" threads I see I can't imagine this is a common problem.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Are you using T Bolt Clamps or Worm Clamps?

You need the T Bolt style and they may just need to be tightened more.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Are you using T Bolt Clamps or Worm Clamps?

You need the T Bolt style and they may just need to be tightened more.

No idea bro. Its all going on at the dealer I just have been getting emails for days about it and how they keep coming off. So since this has gone on for so long I just couldn't imagine this is a common problem and was trying to gauge what people run into when doing it.

[GabeS]

Dealer is not the right place to be taking cars with aftermarket parts, they know shit about tuning. wether they sell those aftermarket parts or not...
I am sure any tiny aftermarket shop would handle something as simple as that in a heartbeat.
and yeah tbolt clamps clamp down much better than cheapy worm clamps. how much boost are you running to be blowing couplers on your fmic? some guys run 20-40psi on daily drivers and couplers still hold up. any pics of the fmic and coupler/pipe connections?

[BQTuning]

Originally got my Dinan FMIC like 2-3 years ago for my previous N54 E92, and then later got transferred over to my new E92 (335is).

Never had a problems with hoses poping off from the FMIC. I had an authorized Dinan indy shop installed the FMIC on both vehicles and not the BMW dealer.

[georgelb]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

So I was just informed by my dealer that my cars new FMIC (Dinan ) is having the stock hoses pop off under WOT after multiple new clamps/ attempts to fix and was wondering if this is a common problem when replacing an FMIC?

I have no idea what they will try next, but even searching I can't find threads on this, and given how many "I love my new helix, er, ets, cobb, cpe FMIC" threads I see I can't imagine this is a common problem.

I'm pretty sure it comes with new couplers, so if they're using the "stock hoses" then that might be their problem.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by GabeS

Dealer is not the right place to be taking cars with aftermarket parts, they know shit about tuning. wether they sell those aftermarket parts or not...
I am sure any tiny aftermarket shop would handle something as simple as that in a heartbeat.
and yeah tbolt clamps clamp down much better than cheapy worm clamps. how much boost are you running to be blowing couplers on your fmic? some guys run 20-40psi on daily drivers and couplers still hold up. any pics of the fmic and coupler/pipe connections?

No, no pics (yet). Its still sitting at the dealer as they're working on it... I had to leave the stage 1 aggressive+fmic map (so between like what? 12-18psi) on cause it wasn't throwing codes in stock form even though I'm sure the hose was already off.

I'm sure I could have figured out an FMIC install by now after almost a week (granted I'd be stranded at home until I did).

[ken1137]

+1 it is common if the proper clamps are not used in addition to not seating the clamps properly and torquing them down enough. I know it is a bitch sometimes b/c I've installed a couple of them.

[BQTuning]

Originally Posted by georgelb

I'm pretty sure it comes with new couplers, so if they're using the "stock hoses" then that might be their problem.

Thats the first thing that came to my mind and they probably disregarded it

[GabeS]

if the intercooler hose coupler popped off, the car should have almost shut down and run like shit, barely getting over 2k rpm and sounding like a big shitty subaru...lol

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by BuraQ

Thats the first thing that came to my mind and they probably disregarded it

They said something was going to managers approval so maybe ordering new hoses or clamps (again no idea until another update).

I just hope they don't flash me back to stock hand it back and say its fixed or worse try and bill me cause the new part wasn't installed right but try to use the cobb as an out. Any longer and I'll just pay an indy to fix it.

Moral of the story buy a second car and learn DIY

Originally Posted by GabeS

if the intercooler hose coupler popped off, the car should have almost shut down and run like shit, barely getting over 2k rpm and sounding like a big shitty subaru...lol

Actually after the first CEL it ran perfect between 0-80 but when I tried to WOT on the first attempt almost like you jumped on a can of air and got a little pop I never tried again. Flashed back to stock and I pushed it hard as they advised trying to throw the CEL and I was going 130+ and throwing/feeling nothing. Then after full uninstall of cobb and reflash first attempt resulted in the same wind noise and jerk (but still ran fine when not going WOT). Since then its been at the dealer.