[buster84]

We'll after a long journey I'm finally finished with my audio setup for now

First i made a Custom Harness. Then I asked for photos to try and figure out the best way to build the box. After that i went through two setups.

First was the XD700/5 Amp and the 10TW3. This setup sounded ok, but the 300w to the sub was to weak, so I sent the XD700/5 back and got the XD400/4 and XD600/1 and ran that with the 10TW3 for a little and man did that sub hit, but its only recommended at 400rms and didn't hit hard enough for me with the top down, so i figured its better to switch the sub out. With the top up the 10TW3 was perfect, but with the top down it just wasn't enough for me, so for anyone with a coupe I'd highly recommend the 10TW3 with a 500/1 amp. That's a very popular setup and the sub can handle it (you do void your warranty with more power, but its worth it).

I then ordered a 10W6V3 and man does this thing hit! I've yet to hear it with the top down on the road but i can already tell its plenty of bass for me. I also replaced my 8's with Earthquakes (2ohm) Running 150w rms to each sub. That thread is located (here).

For anyone wondering where i got my stuff read this Thread. The owner of the shop was so helpful with everything and his prices are pretty good. I even got better better deals when calling. At first i went refurbished, but the prices to switch to new was only a little more so i got all new stuff the second time around after sending back the first stuff.

As you can see with the pics i was able to remove the plastic pieces in the middle in order to build the box in the area. I did this with the tools in my garage. Used very little wood. Just wanted to share my final setup for anyone else looking into the same project. It was definitely worth it and its all hidden really well. I also re-used the bolt holes that the original plastic ski pass used to hold the sub box in place, that way it doesn't move when I'm running full boost

[RaceTruk]

I did the same thing but had a rectangle in the trunk area that jutted out with a trapezoid shape like yours into the pass through.
Is yours really the correct volume box?
That is why I had to have more backing fir the volume

[kaigoss69]

You want to seal the front box baffle against the back seat otherwise you lose output. From the pictures it looks like you still have some air gaps, not 100% sure though.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by RaceTruk

I did the same thing but had a rectangle in the trunk area that jutted out with a trapezoid shape like yours into the pass through.
Is yours really the correct volume box?
That is why I had to have more backing fir the volume

The box volume should be right around .6 cubic feet, it wasn't easy to calculate since i had to round the corners lol. I also added the Polyester Fiber Stuffing as well to make the box think its in a bigger box. The 10TW3 only required .5 cu ft and the 10W6V3 only required .55 cu ft so I lucked out being able to switch after i made the box for the 10tw3. Most subs require a lot more air space, these are the only two how output subs that i know of that allow such small air space. The 12" versions require more so if you added a 12 to your car that would explain the need for a much bigger box. This is why i choose the 10w6v3 over a w7 was because of the .55 cu ft requirement. Could you post pictures of your setup?

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

You want to seal the front box baffle against the back seat otherwise you lose output. From the pictures it looks like you still have some air gaps, not 100% sure though.

I didn't want to do that since i put that arm piece back up most of the time. I only put it down to look at the sub. I also made sure the sub box was a little bit further back since the 10W6V3 has a lot more excursion length and when the sub hits really good it's possible that it could end up hitting the seat damaging the sub. I should get a sub grill to prevent this though.

If you were talking about sealing it up another way then I'm a little confused.

[kaigoss69]

Not sure you understand, lol.

You don't want the sound waves coming from the front of the sub having a chance to go back into the trunk. Therefore there should not be any air gaps between the cabin and the trunk, the enclosure should completely seal the back seat from the trunk. Bass notes come off the cone in pretty much all directions, and you want them all to go into the cabin, if that makes sense. By the same token, you should leave the armrest down, otherwise you are blocking most of the bass.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Not sure you understand, lol.

You don't want the sound waves coming from the front of the sub having a chance to go back into the trunk. Therefore there should not be any air gaps between the cabin and the trunk, the enclosure should completely seal the back seat from the trunk. Bass notes come off the cone in pretty much all directions, and you want them all to go into the cabin, if that makes sense. By the same token, you should leave the armrest down, otherwise you are blocking most of the bass.

so your saying i should block off the entire area surrounding my box? That makes sense, but i still wouldn't want my sub to close to my seat. Its just my preference. If it costs me some SPL then I'll be fine. So far this sub is performing perfectly and sounds great with the top down. Its more than enough so i might not bother sealing it off, but It might be something i'll look into more.

[RaceTruk]

Originally Posted by buster84

so your saying i should block off the entire area surrounding my box? That makes sense, but i still wouldn't want my sub to close to my seat. Its just my preference. If it costs me some SPL then I'll be fine. So far this sub is performing perfectly and sounds great with the top down. Its more than enough so i might not bother sealing it off, but It might be something i'll look into more.

He is saying to seal the back portion. The trunk area around the sub box.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by RaceTruk

He is saying to seal the back portion. The trunk area around the sub box.

Ohh that makes sense! That I'll look into re-doing. Not sure how ill do it but I'll figure it out ok sure lol

[Lockman_321]

Hello mate. This thread is exactly what im looking for! i have an e46 and am thinking of upgrading to an e93. In the e46 i have the ski pass sub. I bought the box. However for the e93 i cant seem to find anyone selling the ski pass box. Yours is perfect. Would it be possible to help ke withe the dimensions and design for this? If not would you be willing to build another one for a price?

[Klae]

I can't believe it took me this long to find this thread. I have been looking for a setup for my e93. I was looking to put the 10tw3 in the ski pass but from your post you say that it didn't give you the bass you were looking for with the top down. I have a 10w6 in my truck and it hits really hard. I want the bass but i don't want to sacrifice rattling something loose that might cause more damage particularly since the trunk and top are mechanized (as well as a spring loaded gas cover). The reason I say this is because is my truck my 10w6 will vibrate the mechanized hatch loose where it won't work automatically at times because the woofer vibrations knock it off track. I don't care about it in my truck but definitely care in my e93 especially since the top will be in the trunk from time to time.

How has the 10w6 been working out for you so far?

Also, did you change out your mids and highs up front? Underseat woofers?

[Klae]

Lockman. Take a look at this site. I haven't used them but I will be in the near future.

http://www.zenclosures.com/

[Klae]

Originally Posted by Lockman_321

Hello mate. This thread is exactly what im looking for! i have an e46 and am thinking of upgrading to an e93. In the e46 i have the ski pass sub. I bought the box. However for the e93 i cant seem to find anyone selling the ski pass box. Yours is perfect. Would it be possible to help ke withe the dimensions and design for this? If not would you be willing to build another one for a price?

http://www.zenclosures.com/

[OzCoE92]

You do realize that those enclosure boxes fire towards the trunk not the back seat? That will most likely rattle and most of your bass will be trapped in the trunk with no where to go. Look at this if you want a box that fires towards the front/dashboard.
http://www.netaudiowf.com/store/bmw/...-forward-fire/

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by OzCoE92

You do realize that those enclosure boxes fire towards the trunk not the back seat? That will most likely rattle and most of your bass will be trapped in the trunk with no where to go. Look at this if you want a box that fires towards the front/dashboard.
http://www.netaudiowf.com/store/bmw/...-forward-fire/

Nice, I like that solution.

[Lockman_321]

Originally Posted by Klae

Lockman. Take a look at this site. I haven't used them but I will be in the near future.

http://www.zenclosures.com/

Thanks alot maye. Will take a look!

[D-e93]

Originally Posted by OzCoE92

You do realize that those enclosure boxes fire towards the trunk not the back seat? That will most likely rattle and most of your bass will be trapped in the trunk with no where to go. Look at this if you want a box that fires towards the front/dashboard.
http://www.netaudiowf.com/store/bmw/...-forward-fire/

This says e91 & e92. Does not mention e93.

[D-e93]

Originally Posted by buster84

so for anyone with a coupe I'd highly recommend the 10TW3 with a 500/1 amp.

How did this turn out for you? I had a 12w6 with an AlpineMRP500 and after a while, it fried the coils.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by D-e93

How did this turn out for you? I had a 12w6 with an AlpineMRP500 and after a while, it fried the coils.

Totally forgot abou this thread! I wanted to update and let you know that my 10w6v3 is running strong to this day and im still using the same amps. Everything is working great. I'm not sure what caused your coils to get fried. I always try to match the brand manfactures since that normally leads to better product longevity when there being connected together.