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      10-11-2009, 07:01 AM   #23
misterS3
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If you're still cutting your knees etc. you're still young and there's life in the old dog (ps i have no idea how you are - but assuming you're over 30!)
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      10-11-2009, 07:03 AM   #24
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Maybe a few beers that i owe you will ease the pain
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      10-11-2009, 07:23 AM   #25
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without viewing the recorder footage of the accident and also analysing the technical data its hard to come to a conclusion for your accident. At least it wasnt fatal
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      10-11-2009, 07:41 AM   #26
misterS3
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without viewing the recorder footage of the accident and also analysing the technical data its hard to come to a conclusion for your accident. At least it wasnt fatal
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      10-11-2009, 08:33 AM   #27
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2006 BMW 335i  [5.00]
did u try drifting maybe?

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      10-11-2009, 09:32 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by misterS3 View Post
If you're still cutting your knees etc. you're still young and there's life in the old dog (ps i have no idea how you are - but assuming you're over 30!)
Good way to look at it. Mid 30's at the moment, so not to old to make an idiot of myself.

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Originally Posted by dxb335d View Post
without viewing the recorder footage of the accident and also analysing the technical data its hard to come to a conclusion for your accident. At least it wasnt fatal
They are still searching the park for the 'black box' Carlos.
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      10-11-2009, 11:20 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by JLR1969 View Post
The switch on the forks will lock out the suspension travel.

No travel on concrete and full travel off road. Not sure where you live but if you are anywhere near Bracknell then head up to The Lookout at Bracknell Forrest miles of MTB routes for all levels of ability.

Happy to show you around if you are ever around the area.
Cool, will try the 'lock out' when I regain the use of my arm

Nowhere near Bracknell unfortunately, but I can't wait to have a go on some forest tracks. Will have to research what is near me.
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      10-11-2009, 11:20 AM   #30
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      10-12-2009, 05:10 AM   #31
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NFS - I had similar happen and I really hurt myself - blood everywhere and knocked out. I think the front wheel just slipped out from under me. Made me a lot more cautious on descents.

And yes, I like things black and stealthy... It's been more blinged since this photo was taken:



Good forks don't need locking.
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      10-12-2009, 05:26 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by 335diesel View Post
Good forks don't need locking.
Not exactly true - even top end forks will 'bob' when climbing, much better to lock them out - you just need to remember to unlock them before the fast downhill bit! Locked forks make it easier to lift your front wheel when climbing too.

It could be said that good forks don't need unlocking - the blow off should handle any serious bumps etc. However, I've always found its always a little too late when traveling at 'brain out' speeds.

Is that a Talas RLC on the front of that Stumpjumper?

Looks like we have a fair few mountain bikers on the forum - perhaps we should have bike meet too!
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      10-12-2009, 05:34 AM   #33
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Good forks don't need locking.
Nice looking bike.

The forks on my bike are Suntour Epicon. Is that any good?

Halfords took ages working out how much air they should put in them based on my weight.
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      10-12-2009, 05:42 AM   #34
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From the reviews I've seen they're rated and a real bargain. I've never seem a pair so can't comment myself, but they appear more than adequate to get you started and will easily cope with intermidiate stuff too.

I'll get a piccy of my stead up soon.
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      10-12-2009, 05:50 AM   #35
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NFS - decent bike. You wouldn't want to race on it but it'll do the job you need it for very well overall. What do you weigh? I keep mine forks at around 90-100PSi. I'm 11.5ish stone.

Jon - Float RL (for lightness) and love them. Only 90mm of travel but it's all I need. I used to lock and unlock my forks but I find they don't bob at all if I slightly adjust my weight.

Won my offroad tri on that bike (and wife did a tri the next day - 5th overall and 2nd female) - so I really like it.

Some nice bikes on here!
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      10-12-2009, 06:03 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by 335diesel View Post
NFS - decent bike. You wouldn't want to race on it but it'll do the job you need it for very well overall. What do you weigh? I keep mine forks at around 90-100PSi. I'm 11.5ish stone.
Not sure what I weigh exactly - just under 13 stone I think.

Halfords put in 160psi. The forks feel firm, but they do move over bumps etc.

Does that sound too much?
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      10-12-2009, 06:09 AM   #37
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I really like Stumpjumpers, especially the hardtail - it was the first real mountain bike back in the day. My mate has a carbon S Works FSR which is the dogs danglies, but I'm a bit wary of CF bikes - too easy to right off the frame.

I've a custom Santa Cruz Heckler and have the new 150 Talas with 15mm QR, the fork's a bit heavy but most of my riding is at trail centres and I've built the bike for the down hills so it doesn't really bother me - my mates on racing snake XC bikes always leave me behind up hill, but I soon catch them with the aid of gravity!

I'm currently rebuilding a Specialized Rockhopper hardtail and I'm aiming for that to be light for XC work.
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      10-12-2009, 06:11 AM   #38
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NFS - it depends quite a lot on the forks themselves but that does sound very firm. I'd be tempted to drop it to 120-130ish.

When you sit on the bike (as if riding), they should sag about an 25-40mm or so. Also depends a bit of the terrain. I like them softish but some like them rock hard.
If the front end is skitting all over the place, try lowering the pressure. If you keep bottoming out, raise it. Well set up forks are brilliant - amazing how well they work.

Jon - serious bikes those Hecklers! I'm a total wuss at mad downhill stuff (too many crashes, one near death!) so stick to racing snake XC stuff. We also have a Rockopper - just a 2008 "disk" model. Amazing value for money and generally used by Mrs Matt. Then there's the 1997 Stumpjumper, the 1994 heap for shopping (British Eagle Strike) and a 2010 Allex Elite road bike...!!
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      10-12-2009, 06:22 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NFS View Post
Not sure what I weigh exactly - just under 13 stone I think.

Halfords put in 160psi. The forks feel firm, but they do move over bumps etc.

Does that sound too much?
Way too much - I'm 85kg (about 13 stone) and I run mine at 125psi, that's the top end of what I'd recommend. Easy way to tell is to put a cable tie around the fork leg and push it to the bottom. Then carefully get on the bike (don't compress the fork) and sit as you would when riding (get someone to hold the bike). Carefully get off and measure how far the tie has moved up the leg (this is called sag) - it should be 25% of the travel of the fork (not sure what travel yours has). If its more than that you need more air and vice versa. Make sure you take the tie off when you've done - they can damage the seals over time.

As a general note - Halfords are a car accessory shop (and not a very good one), they are crap when it comes to bikes! You can get some great deals from them, but after that I'd use a decent bike shop for servicing etc. My mate bought a bike for his lad from them and I inspected it when they got it home - it was in a dangerous condition (brakes not working, bits not fitted correctly) and Halfords bent over backwards to stop them going to Trading Standards! I've heard lots of similar stories from people at work.
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      10-12-2009, 06:28 AM   #40
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Agree with Jon - any good bike mechanic will be working at a decent "proper" bikeshop, not Halfrauds. They do sell at amazing prices but I've seen some shockers there too. In fact I'd take a new Halfords bike to a proper bike shop after buying it to get it looked at (if I didn't know what to look for - which I do)!
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      10-12-2009, 06:48 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonsteele View Post
Way too much - I'm 85kg (about 13 stone) and I run mine at 125psi, that's the top end of what I'd recommend. Easy way to tell is to put a cable tie around the fork leg and push it to the bottom. Then carefully get on the bike (don't compress the fork) and sit as you would when riding (get someone to hold the bike). Carefully get off and measure how far the tie has moved up the leg (this is called sag) - it should be 25% of the travel of the fork (not sure what travel yours has). If its more than that you need more air and vice versa. Make sure you take the tie off when you've done - they can damage the seals over time.
Will try that. The travel is 120mm, so I'm presumably looking for 30mm of 'sag'?
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      10-12-2009, 07:07 AM   #42
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As we are talking about MTB I thought I would add a photo of mine. Never changed the air in my forks but am thinking that perhaps I should. Need advice how to do it though.
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      10-12-2009, 07:10 AM   #43
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JLR - what forks are they? Decent bike.
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      10-12-2009, 08:04 AM   #44
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Look like Rock Shox Recon to me, definitely Rock Shox.

If you take off the cover from the top of the left hand leg (as you look when seated) there is a valve under there, you'll need a shock pump to sort it. If you look at the back of the same leg, there is a table of pressures for various weights (visible in the pic). If you don't already have one, shock pumps are available from all decent bike shops, and Halfords!
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