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JB4 G5 Experience on 2013 335is
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11-30-2012, 11:58 AM | #1 |
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JB4 G5 Experience on 2013 335is
After couple days of driving with JB4 under map5 with 30/70 e85/93 mix, the car pulls harder than ever however there is a bog that I feel when WOT time to time. When WOT, RPM will increase then suddenly drop down couple notches and it will start to increase again.
After some research, I found out that its the clutch slipping...? Please correct me if I'm wrong. As you know already know, the car is brand new. I JUST passed 1200 miles break in period. Not sure if it's really the clutch slipping issue... On the otherside, I did smoke a random 2013 Mustang GT 5.0 (Stock) off the highway 60~120ish? I did have a head start since the Mustang reacted too late to the third honk. lol We ended up getting off on the same exit and we came to a stop light. I rolled my windows down and I said "Nice car! Anything done under the hood?" And he said, "Thanks man! You too! No mods yet since I just got it 2 weeks ago." Then I replied, "ME TOO!! LOL" then light turned green and we went on to our separate ways. JB4 definitely helped me "beef" up my car. Overall, I'm 50/50 on JB4 G5 tuning due to mainly 2 reasons. (for now) 1. Inconsistency. Don't get me wrong. JB4 system has came a long way and it is surprising to see this much gain off piggy back system especially with e85 mixed. (You truly do now know the real power until you mix e85 lol) However, for some reason, when I run back to back WOT pulls, one run I will receive max/peak boost at ~16psi but the next run will be around ~9~13psi. And the run after that will max/peak boost at ~15psi again. I really enjoy the extra gain of power/boost but consistency is what I am seeking over few extra peak boost. 2. Installation. Although it wasn't hard to install JB4, I personally think that if cost isn't an issue, I would get the COBB to re-flash the ecu for much deeper/in-depth tuning. In fact, you don't even need to open the hood for COBB installation process. Kick back and have a beer during the installation. With that being said, I did purchase a COBB AP and I should have it by next week. Additional comparison between JB4/COBB will be followed after using COBB AP so please stay tuned. I do have couple questions about COBB AP. Because there are numerous different OTS maps available off COBB website, 1. How do you know which map to go with? Currently I have BMS DCI only. Will I receive any codes if I run Stage2+FMIC Aggressive map (linear throttle) even though it says FMIC, DP is required? 2. Can you run RACE maps? Since 335is has extra cooling capability, are you able to run maps that exceeds your FBO requirements such as FMIC/DP/Exhaust mods? (Not for everyday commute) 3. Are there any protune shops in Michigan for Michigan N54 owners? If not, does e-protune have that much effect over regular protune? What is the gain after e-protune/protune compared to OTS maps? I understand that protune is specifically designed for your own vehicle but there must be an average gain right? Please advise. ^^ Here are few logs I've done below: |
11-30-2012, 12:09 PM | #2 |
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Map 5 is an auto tuning map. That's why you are seeing different boost all the time. Different environmental factors such as ambient temp or heat soak will cause that. If you want more consistency try running one of the maps with a set boost target. With e85 you you may have to log and make some open loop fueling adjustments while on those maps.
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11-30-2012, 12:11 PM | #3 |
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For the G5, ensure you are using the G5 ISO firmware and proper settings for the 1M/335is. If you happen to have a Cobb AP you can also load BMS' back end flash.
Mike Last edited by Mike@N54Tuning.com; 11-30-2012 at 01:01 PM.. |
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11-30-2012, 12:11 PM | #4 | |||
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Your car (especially the DCT) probably hates you if you've only had it for 2 weeks and are ripping on it with 60-120 runs before you've finished the break-in mileage
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OP -- Spend some time on the COBB site or on the COBB N54 Tune Thread on this forum (http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...72813&page=303) to familiarize yourself with the tune before you install it & blame COBB for something that goes wrong. Clearly you haven't spent any time on N54Tech reading about how the JB4 functions otherwise you would understand why the boost level isn't consistent on Map 5. |
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11-30-2012, 12:19 PM | #5 | |||
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You can check Cobbs website for shops that offer protuning. Etune is a great option, and our resident protuner Jake from Protuningfreaks.com is a great guy that can get you some terrific results. Since you like the power that E85 offers, i would suggest contacting him and getting an Etune for some ethanol. Without all the supporting mods to run the Cobb OTS Race maps, an Etune/protune is the only way to take advantage of ethanol. |
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12-03-2012, 09:07 AM | #6 |
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Thank you for all of your inputs.
Upon receiving my COBB AP, I will do a full comparison between the two. But it seems like I need to learn more about the COBB AP. Please stay tuned! ^^ |
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12-03-2012, 10:08 AM | #7 | |
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I am interested in this, use the correct maps exclusive for the 335iS recommended by others and see if your still getting slippage, and then try Cobb by itself and see if you get slippage.
Do not try brake boosting. Stay away from it on this particular car. If you are getting slippage on the JB tune and not on the Cobb, then my theory is correct: Quote:
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12-03-2012, 10:12 AM | #8 |
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Your G5 is not setup properly. Your timing looks bad and your trims are flatlining in places. Email Terry, something is not right here. Also, as far as maps go for Cobb, again email Terry. He will give you the correct map to run on the Cobb to work with the G5. You want to stack the BMS flash under the G5. The combination will give you the best results. But again, get the settings ironed out. Also go ISO if you haven't...
While this is true, the variance is closer to 0.5-1psi than it is to the 5+ psi he is seeing. Also you won't go from one run at 17 to another at 10. That is not normal. |
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12-03-2012, 10:36 AM | #9 | |
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Since you already have G5, run it ISO and use the Cobb you ordered for BMS's flash that supplements the JB4 G5. There is a sticky on BMS's forum that may help you self-diagnose the tuning problems you're seeing in your datalogs. Read the stickies and if you can't correct things on your own Terry can help you (probably quickly too) get things straightened out. Running a Cobb stage one map will be unsatisfying compared to a G5 ISO plus BMS flash combination on E85/premium combination, given that you don't have FMIC/DPs to support a higher boost map with the Cobb, unless its protuned to optimize your current set up. |
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12-03-2012, 10:38 AM | #10 | ||
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Also, I have not updated ISO yet because I wasn't sure how return policy will be at Burgertuning after cutting the 2 diodes, so I have not touched this yet. Let me try COBB first and then I will see which tuning I want to stick with. Quote:
I'm not sure what you mean by Brake boosting. Is that similar to LC? I haven't experienced LC yet due to break-in period... Although I passed 1200 miles mark, when I try to execute LC (M mode, Sport, DTC off, car is warm) rpm does that pass more than 1500 rpm. Brake boosting just sounds like you hold the brake apply throttle at the sametime around ~2500 rpm and you just let go the brake. Same thing here, when I try to do this, it won't go pass 1500rpm. I'm not sure what the issue is but if I experience another slippage, I will definitely let you know. |
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12-03-2012, 10:50 AM | #11 | |
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12-03-2012, 11:53 AM | #12 | |
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12-03-2012, 11:59 AM | #13 |
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you weren't slipping the clutch. you were runnin too lean in most of the logs, I'm willing to bet 46 dollars that your fuel pump was takin a hit post shift bcuz of the ethanol and improper settings on your behalf stressing the fuel system out. nbd but it could have been easily fixed with a tweak or two. if.̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̨̨̨̨̨̨̨̨̨̨̨̨.̸̸̨̨*you try the g5 again email terry some logs and ensure all the settings are correct. you might see a big difference
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12-03-2012, 12:08 PM | #14 |
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Sounds like you are frying the clutch trying to break boost it.
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12-03-2012, 12:10 PM | #15 | |
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For LC control to work you must be in the following config: M Mode * DTC - Press Button Once (Sport Traction shows in dash) * Sport Button On; example : Hold brake firmly, then "FLOOR" the gas peddle. Your RPMs should shoot up to 5k RPM. If it doesnt then LC is not ready yet There are some reports on some 335iS the LC is not ready until after 1300 miles I recommended to use the two tunes seperately so you can be able to see if the problem is repeating itself. We would be able to weed out what your actually experiencing. Just stay away from brake boosting via holding brake, and pressing on gas to raise RPM to 1.5k |
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12-03-2012, 12:14 PM | #16 |
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listen to BuraQ he's a drag strip guy like I am but he has an IS
If you don't see the "clutch slipping " on cobb then it's probably the fueling stress like I said.
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12-03-2012, 02:06 PM | #17 | ||
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Yeah, I have done all the things listed above and still no LC. Not that I want to do this at the tracks but I just wanted to see what it's like since I've always driven AWD vehicles. Seems like it may be after 1300 miles. I will be using COBB and JB4 separately until I install more mods. Who knows, I might like JB4 more than COBB later. Thanks for all of your feed backs! ^_^y |
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12-03-2012, 02:20 PM | #18 | ||
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I haven't been on this forum for very long time but the most inquiries I have been spotting so far is "JB4 vs COBB" or "which tune should I go with?" or "which is the best tune"...etc. Just thought I can give my 2cent to the people who are seeking more power. Yes, 5psi variation is not normal for sure. I have checked the settings via dropdown box and chose G5 board. I know I should have updated ISO firmware but I wasn't sure of BMS return policy. I just wanted an initial experience for both tuning. I will be protuning COBB either through a local shop here or PTF people but correct me if I'm wrong, I'm under the impression you will need FMIC+dp to run any Stage 2 + FMIC aggressive maps. So far I only have BMS DCI. What is an ATR? |
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12-03-2012, 03:00 PM | #19 | |
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Cobb has requirements for mods and levels since it is flash based. PTF can sort all that through an etune since each car is different. ATR is the software that allows you to modify Cobb tables. What I was getting at is that with flash firmware you need to tune to that specific car to get full performance. Stock programming is flash and its conservative to deal with the variations between cars. The G5 on the other hand can autotune right on the car using the cars sensors. Thus if you add a mod or change something with the G5 it will automatically tune for the most power. What the G5 lacks is the ability to modify the oem tables since it is essentially just intercepting signals and modifying them. This means that there are limits to how much fuel and timing the G5 can add. The stack of Cobb and G5 is the best of both worlds since the Cobb can open up timing, fueling, vanos, etc. and the G5 can get you the most power out or it and adjust to your specific conditions. Hope that is clear and as unbiased as I can be. |
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