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V2 DataLog Great to Limp in under 5.0 second
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02-07-2008, 01:23 PM | #1 |
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V2 DataLog Great to Limp in under 5.0 second
Well I wanted to increase my torque values but I now how everyone said you must datalog. So am running Conoco 91 for a long time without any problems.
I am also running the latest firmware and map and have had zero problems for the last three weeks since install of V2. I did the first data run last week and went from 2nd roll at 40 like Shiv said all the way to 110. My best boost at 5500 in 3rd or 4th was 13.1psi. So I increased the values to 92 across and wow, I like the increase. Ran it for about a week to adapt. Went back to datalog just today (Phoenix 49F) and boost went up to 13.9-14.1 max at 5500 in 3rd and 4th gears. As soon as I got off the highway and stopped at the red light, with my foot on the brake the car surged like I hit the gas and brake at the same time but only I never hit the gas. BOOM half lit engine and the car being lifted up with the huge ! point and the small one with the arrow wrapped around it. I have had limp mode before but not with all the extra lights, just half engine. So, I knew to turn the car off and wait a second and try again. Well the car is running real, real bad. Worse than any limp mode I had with 1.47. This new V2 map has been flawless and then all of a sudden, stopped at a red light. This sucks! I'm scheduled to go to Riss Racing this Saturday for catless install. Going to look under the hood for possible loose wiring. Any advice for the datalog or car problem would be appreciated. Thanks. How do you convert the datalog from csv to a file that will upload? |
02-07-2008, 01:30 PM | #2 |
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Well, based on what Shiv and Dustin have said in the past, if you were idling when you got the limp, you might have a bad coil or sparkplug. Sounds like what others have gotten when they had a misfire in one of the cylinders.
And it seems like the misfires have come from a bad coil or sparkplug. Your boost levels are fine and if you were going to get a limp from the extra boost of v2 it would/should of happened while at WOT. |
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02-07-2008, 01:42 PM | #4 | |
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02-07-2008, 02:42 PM | #6 |
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Yup, thanks for the advice Shiv and per. The good news is the new map is still flawless as I suspected. Upon further inspection of the wires the power wire red
is hanging on by only one wire and the spade on the black power wire was completely broken in half. I would not say this means poor quality because sometimes my fine motor control is brutal. Never-the-less I am happy to know the car is fine and the map for V2 is as well. Shiv I will PM you for help fixing. I always see others with problems here and there so not happy to be on this end of it but the quick replies sure helps. Thanks PS. Great customer service Shiv. |
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02-07-2008, 03:13 PM | #7 |
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Here is the data.
This is at 92 torque settings. Only mod is V2 and Borla exhaust.
Here are the photos of the broken wires. If anyone has similar problems you might want to check here. |
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02-07-2008, 04:43 PM | #8 |
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Yup, common problem with that spade connector.
Mine broke at installation too. It's way to brittle. Luckily it's a pretty quick and easy fix. Now, if you are only seeing 14.1 psi max at 92%, up the values to 92.7xx% I know you are on 91 Octane in Phoenix, so I 92.7xx% should give you a bit more boost and power and you should be good. You may need to lower it back down to the 91% area during the scortching hot summers of Phoenix though. |
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02-07-2008, 04:59 PM | #9 |
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I was wondering about the torque values during the summer months, especially since I'm going to run the Riss catless dp'd and Shiv's new map when it comes out. I really don't want a boost gage so I guess I will need to datalog often.
I will try your suggestion on the settings but I will probably have to wait till Shiv can fix this. I'm not experienced with soldering and don't have any spade connectors. Thanks |
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02-07-2008, 10:28 PM | #10 | |
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But I simply went to Radio Shack, bought and appropriate size and had someone do the soldering for me. It was pretty easy and painless. As for the heat, I wouldn't worry about having to datalog often. If you settings are too high for the heat, the car will simply go into limp. That will tell you time to lower the settings/boost. I'd just expect to do it once temps get close to 90. Do a datalog, see what the boost pressure is in that heat. Than lower .5% if it's getting a bit high. Than as temps get even hotter, if it throws a limp, drop another .5% and see if that takes care of that. I'll be doing the same thing, as it gets in the low 100's where i live quite often in the summer months too. |
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02-07-2008, 10:35 PM | #11 |
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Hey I found the posts for the parts. Can I find the male and female spade connectors at Radio Shack. If so can't I just crimp them with a tool or will I need to solder it? Important question concerns the three power wires coming into the black shrink wrap and then covered by the white plastic. How the hell do I get that white plastic open and is that found at radio shack too. And can I find the female end covered in red housing that the red wire has now broken off as well?
The strange thing is that that black piece of tape that Shiv keeps talking about was cut originally during install. Despite that it broke anyways. |
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02-07-2008, 11:42 PM | #12 |
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I broke the same thing on a friends car during install.....its just a weak piece from the factory I think, you need to be reallllly careful.
New spade and a little solder and it was fine.
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02-08-2008, 12:01 AM | #13 |
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Hi Guys,
Since we're talking V2 and torque values here, I have a couple of questions for you guys. Like the OP (wassup Robert ), I am also in Phoenix, about 1,400ft elevation. 1.) Is your procedure when changing torque values to have the ignition on, engine off, change torque settings, reset ECU in COMMS menu, disconnect battery for an hour, reconnect and start adaptation. If not, what do you do? 2.) At 90% I was at about 13.5-14.0psi and trapped 109.72mph in my best 1/4 mile pass. In an attempt to get a bit more, I upped the settings to 96% and after about 75 miles of 3-4th gear pulls to adapt, saw boost drop to a peak of about 12.5 and dropping to around 10. This wasn't what I expected... I'm running a 50-50 mix of 91/100 octane and I'm not throwing any codes. 3.) What adaptation timeframe is required to see the maximum changes from one torque setting to another? Disappointed with that, tonight I dropped the torque settings to 91%, disconnected the battery before dinner, and went driving. After about 40 miles of driving around and gradually upping the rpms, here is the 2nd-4th gear datalog. This is still disappointing. I can't tell if I just need more adaptation time, or if I should drop back to 90% or go higher to 98%. Any suggestions would be appreciated... |
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02-08-2008, 12:21 AM | #14 | |
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2) - 96 % might be too high. Start at 90%, then 92% and 94%. If boost drops, go back with the UT settings. 3) - It's not the time, it's more accelerating up to the rev. limiter a couple of times at different engine load conditions / gears IMO. I'd say 2 days ( 1st day just drive around at different rpm's, 2nd day rev up to 7000 rpm's for a couple of times ) should do it. Your posted boost curves look fine. I'd love to see these settings with the Forge DV's. Quite some users ( including myself ) experienced higher and stable boost using the Forge DV's. - Eugen |
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02-08-2008, 01:21 AM | #15 | |
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Cheers! |
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02-08-2008, 09:32 AM | #16 | |
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product that provides some safety. Good luck with them at let me know how the install goes. |
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02-08-2008, 10:33 AM | #17 |
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Install is straight forward and not complex at all. I don't like the silicone hoses and will come up with a better solution soon, using parts of the OEM hoses.
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02-08-2008, 12:00 PM | #18 |
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02-08-2008, 12:11 PM | #19 |
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^ using the silicone hoses you cannot position the DV's so that they are aligned in parallel. They are tensed, in worst case they can touch each other. Currently I use a piece of silicone to avoid scratches. Later on, with my new hoses, they will be aligned as it should be. However, the DV's work great and I would buy them again without any doubt. IMO a must for the car when you raise boost.
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02-08-2008, 02:42 PM | #20 |
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We explored using the OEM hoses but most people would balk at cutting the stock part and getting the hoses to seal was tricky. Before making any head way on your hose idea take a look at how the valves lock into place, if you rotate them to much they will come free from the charge pipe.
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02-08-2008, 03:09 PM | #21 | |
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02-08-2008, 05:05 PM | #22 |
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same thing here Eugene, DV's are touching slightly and I just put a piece of silicone in there to avoid clinking and scratches. The supplied silicone hoses are quite stiff and robust, almost too much.
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