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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Idrive Menu Button Sticking
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04-18-2012, 09:13 AM | #1 |
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Idrive Menu Button Sticking
Just traded my 2006 330i for a 2010 355i X drive from CarMax- I am at the dealer right now getting a few little things taken care of. I noticed the Menu button is also sticking. I am guessing the previous owner may have spilled something down in there. My local BMW dealer told me warranty will not cover this issue. Is there anyway to take it apart and clean the buttons real good? It works fine just gets stuck after a day of sitting and I have to play with it to get it popped back up and functioning. Thanks for any help or guidance you guys can give me.
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04-18-2012, 09:21 AM | #2 |
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It covers it just fine, go to another dealer. When going to the dealer just tell them the button doesn't work. If you tell them "hmmmm I think the guy before poured soda into it!" Chances they'll tell you to suck one.
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04-18-2012, 11:14 AM | #3 |
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That's what I told them originally---They just called and said they could tell there was some type of liquid spilled in there and they want $172 to disassemble and clean it up. Some of the paint has worn off the side of the MENU button also, so I would rather disassembly it myself. clean it and refinish the buttons before I put it back together.. That way it looks new again and functions properly..
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04-18-2012, 11:40 AM | #4 |
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Searched to no avail--Can someone point me to a thread that shows the idrive controller removal? Found some on other sites for a 5 series, but that isn't going work for this car...
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04-18-2012, 12:50 PM | #5 |
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im not sure about the 5 series but the trim should pull of and the controller should be held in with a few screws. Also im sure the dealer was not going to take it apart and fix it lol, the dealers replace things rather than fix them especially a tedious fix like this. You can find the new idrive controllers on ebay for $100 if you cant fix it
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04-18-2012, 01:01 PM | #6 |
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I had (have) the same problem with my idrive controller. When I bought it CPO from BMW, I complained about the sticking buttons and the trim around the idrive, start button, and gear shift (AT) all being chewed up, and that they had to fix it before I'd take the car. They fixed the trim, but the button still sticks on cold mornings (if its warm, it doesn't stick, oddly enough).
I wonder if something like a non-conductive electronics cleaning spray would break whatever it is down and clean it out?
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04-18-2012, 05:16 PM | #7 | |
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04-18-2012, 05:57 PM | #8 |
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The above pics are from when I disassembled the dash a couple weeks ago to wrap them in carbon fiber. Just make sure you disconnect the idrive wire when lifting out the center console. The idrive is held in by four small screws and pops up. I noticed when I didnt tighten the screws enough, the button would get stuck as you described. So it should be an easy fix! Good luck
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04-18-2012, 07:30 PM | #9 | |
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04-18-2012, 08:35 PM | #10 |
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It can be taken apart. After you get the controller off of the trim, there are a couple clips holding the surround on. Then 4 screws to take out, t8 I beleive, and a couple more clips to release. On the very bottom under the sticker is a small "door" that is held in by a couple clips on one end. Unplug the ribbon cable. Make sure you DO NOT PULL ON THIS CABLE!!! It is attached at the end by a very narrow piece and is easily broken. Don't ask how I know as it is a royal pain to fix if you break it! Then on the bottom you have to press the two peices together to release from the bottom housing. Back to the top of the knob, the cover with the arrows pops off. Remove the small torq screw. I think it's a t6. Then the bottom part of the knob shaft should come apart. At this point you should be able to get to the buttons and all. I may be a little off with the steps but I think that is everything. Also pay close attention how the ribbon cable is routed throught the controller. It's been a couple days and I'm going off memory. It is a bit complicated but take your time and it's not that big of a deal. Good luck!
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04-18-2012, 08:37 PM | #11 | |
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04-20-2012, 10:43 AM | #12 |
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Tell the dealer you think something is wrong with it when u bring it in for w/e else next time. They should call you to tell you what they found out and how much to fix if not covered. Then just decline to do it.
My rear overhead light was loose, a clip or something wasnt right and it was hanging lower on one side. I mentioned it to the service rep. They got back to me saying it will be $100 to fix, I said no thanks i will try to fix it myself. I got my car back (after the ticking was fixed) the light was perfectly fixed and snug. The tech must have seen it and assumed I was paying for it no matter what. The dealer lack of communication can benefit you sometimes. |
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04-20-2012, 12:13 PM | #13 |
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Noticed also some of the paint was coming off of the buttons, so just went and ordered a new one from Tischer. My question that I have gotten several different answers for is does the controller need to be coded to my car? I have had some tell me it is plug and play and others tell me it has to be coded. Does anyone know for sure which it is?
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04-21-2012, 08:32 PM | #15 |
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New or used controllers are plug-n-play. No need for coding. I even upgraded my 07 Controller to the latest version without a hitch. Although I did have to buy a new center trim piece.
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Last edited by ChasVS; 04-21-2012 at 08:38 PM.. |
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03-08-2013, 07:12 PM | #16 |
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2011 328i idrive controller
I have a problem with my idrive controller, my controller stoped working and my voice command button did as well, i tried disconnecting the battery and rebooting the idrive by holding down the volume knob but still the same. Dont whant to take it to dealer because what i dont whant to hear is to replace the controller or some thing that they might think is wrong and just fixing it by replacing. I just whant to make sure there is someone having the same problem or if there is a way to fix it before taaking to dealer
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09-26-2013, 12:57 PM | #17 | |
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