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11-26-2010, 01:38 PM | #1277 | ||
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Depending on the level of swirls in your paint will determine which polish and pad combination to go with. A good combination to start with is Meguiar's M105 and M205. It works great on random orbital buffers and is pretty easy to get good results with the combo. I'd recommend reading through this M105/M205 article for optimal results. We do have a couple of packages with these buffers and polishes and pads. PC w/ M105 & M205 and pads Flex w/ M105 & M205 and pads That would certainly be a great start. Other options I like are the Menzerna polishes as well. Before polishing, I'd highly recommend claying your paint and after you definitely want to protect with your choice of sealant or wax. Quote:
Keep us posted how it turns out. |
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11-27-2010, 11:22 PM | #1278 |
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Would like a little feedback after a couple detail jobs!
Hey guys,
So I have years and years of washing and detailing cars (at least once a week, all cars in the household) and normally wax the cars in the spring and fall. Poeple say I'm obsessed...I think I like to retain value However, over the past couple of weeks I've started learning about paint correction. After spending what seemed like 30 hours on this forum section and reading the Detailing 101 thread five times, I placed an order thru Detailed Image for all the necessities. The first car attempted was my 08 E90 335 in Sparkling Graphite. Not many swirl marks or scratches, just a lot of orange peel that I wanted to get rid of. (after reading the 'life of my M3" thread) The other cars include a Black Audi A4 and Cadillac El Dorado, both swirled a lot. A couple questions: --Does anyone have experience with Sparkling Graphite? It seems it is a Very HARD paint.[/B] For example, I had done the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish on speed 6 with the orange pad FOUR TIMES, and saw no 'results'. After pulling the tape divider off, the polished side didn't look much better than the untouched side. The polished side felt a tiny bit smoother, but not significant. As I was expecting/wanting to see 3-5 microns off, It didn't seem to do much of anything. I will attempt to do it again with Meguiars 105, and perhaps the purple wool pad? Would you suggest the wool pad, or is that too abrasive for what I'm trying to do? The other cars swirl marks seemed to react better to the SIP and orange pad. -- I used the Klasse Sealant Glaze, and it seemed to be easier to apply it by hand with a microfiber pad. Is this really less effective than putting it on with the orbital on speed 3? -- Washing towels: I got the powder packs that I mixed with 3 gallons of water for the PADS, but what can/should I use to wash microfiber towels that have polish/sealant/wax on them? --Klasse Sealant: *****Is 3 or 4 coats overkill? If it chemically bonds to the paint, after the 2nd coat I'd think it would have no paint to bond to, so would it bond to the existing sealant and make another layer? I'm wondering if 4 coats actually gives more protection than 2 *****Is there a reason to not use this sealant on the windows? I know there are specific window products, but will this be just as effective? Thanks for all the previous help guys, I learned A LOT from this section. I'd greatly appreciate advice for the questions above! |
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11-28-2010, 05:04 PM | #1279 | |
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Regarding the wool pads, that's not the answer with random orbitals... another product designed more so for rotary use. The reason wool pads are used with rotary buffers is because rotaries can generate a lot more heat due to spinning in one continuous circle and the wool fibers help keep the paint cooler than foam pads will. The just happen to offer more cut in addition to keeping the paint cooler. Your best bet for maximum cut with a PC and M105 is to go with the Surbuf pads. Again, smaller the pad you go with the better the correction you are going to get. I'd recommend reading through this article as well for maximum results: M105 + Surbuf + PC There's no benefit of applying a sealant with a buffer, it's just a matter of preference. Polishing is the only step that benefits from application with a quality buffer, glazes, sealants and waxes give you the same result by hand or buffer applied. What I find best is to keep a 5 gallon bucket ready for both pads and towels. You can mix them together using the Snappy Clean packets or use a degreaser. Put the used pads and towels in the bucket immediately after use, do not wait... this will make cleaning them significantly easier. After you soak the towels (and pads) use your thumbs to run them over the towels and pads every 30 mins or so to help release product. After the detail, then wash the towels in your washer and dryer without any fabric softener and store them properly. You'll reach a point of diminishing returns rather quickly when you venture into the 3rd and 4th coat. I recommend at least 2 coats of Klasse HGSG (or any sealant for that matter) primarily to ensure full even coverage but also for the added benefit of increased protection and slightly more depth and gloss. I do notice with the Klasse the look is better with multiple coats compared to just one. Use it on your exterior glass too, it works great at repelling water. Hope this helps, keep us posted how your next polishing session goes. |
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11-28-2010, 07:47 PM | #1280 | |
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I'm using the 6.5" pad, but will give the 5.5 or 4" a try! I've also got an order in for M105, pads, light, and a slew of other accessories. (that makes 3 orders in the past 2 weeks, haha) Here's a picture of an A4 I was working on (not all deep swirls were removed) I had posted up a new thread regarding capturing poor paint conditions on camera, do you have any advice for that? |
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11-29-2010, 07:57 AM | #1281 | |
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Capturing imperfections with your camera can be a difficult thing to do... your best bet is to use all manual settings if using an dSLR and you definitely need good lighting that reveals the imperfections. Make sure you aren't focusing on the reflection but the surface of the paint. A little practice and messing around with the settings should give you some results. Also, I found that no outside lighting helps, if you have windows letting light in, that can hinder capturing the results. Hope this helps. |
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11-29-2010, 02:23 PM | #1282 | |
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11-30-2010, 08:01 AM | #1283 | |
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12-03-2010, 06:32 AM | #1284 |
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Probably asked before, but this just happened to me...
How do you remove gas stains from paint? A defective pump didnt stop by itself and it caused a major spill ahah. Cleaned the surface with water yesterday after it happened but I didnt knew it would leave a stain on the paint; just noticed that this morning.
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12-03-2010, 10:50 PM | #1285 |
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George, another wax question! Used the 5050 before and was happy with that. Just picked up some dodo juice blue velvet from you so going to try that. What wax do you recommend for a jerez M3? I usually wax the car every 6-8 weeks and apply jetseal twice a year with two coats each time. So many choices out there! Thanks!
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12-04-2010, 11:58 AM | #1286 | |
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All I'm sayin...Make sure it didn't cause more damage than you realize. |
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12-06-2010, 07:35 AM | #1287 |
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Washed the quarter the day after the event happened and it completely disapeared. It wasnt that big of a stain, maybe just a oily finish on the clear.
But I was ready for the worst. I was even ready to polish and rewax/polish/glaze. But now its gone! A new polish should definitely settle things.
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12-07-2010, 04:35 PM | #1288 | ||
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I think you'll really like the Blue Velvet though. Make sure the paint is properly prepped before applying it, that makes the biggest impact on the results you'll get out of the wax. Quote:
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12-07-2010, 04:54 PM | #1289 |
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Ok just saw the paint spill situation and got a bit scared.
About 2 months ao when removing the gas nozzle a whole bunch of fuel spilled all over my paint, I came home and read online a couple hours about what to do and then just took it through a touchless car wash and washed it off. Is there a chance that there was damage done that will show up later? Is there anything I should do now even though it was so long ago?
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12-08-2010, 01:06 PM | #1290 | |
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12-08-2010, 03:37 PM | #1292 |
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Thanks for the reply... I'll def give it some extra attention.
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12-09-2010, 12:06 PM | #1293 |
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how do u get swirl marks?
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12-09-2010, 01:03 PM | #1294 |
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Agreed!
Sounds good. Let us know how everything turns out for you. Swirl marks are typically created from some variation of improper washing or drying techniques or contaminated towels, pads, applicators that touch your paint. Swirls are essentially minor scratches and are usually created by dragging dirt (or some other form of contamination) over your paint without lubrication. The only way to permanently eliminate swirls is to properly polish your car and take the steps needed to ensure you're washing and drying using the best technique and proper equipment. |
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12-09-2010, 05:57 PM | #1295 |
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Do you know anybody in la who knows how to wash cars without causing swirl marks and can wax and detail preferably in the san fernando valley
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12-11-2010, 09:24 AM | #1296 | |
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12-12-2010, 05:50 PM | #1297 | |
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Sounds good, keep me posted on your thoughts of the wax as you get to use it some more and see how it holds up to the elements. |
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12-13-2010, 10:32 AM | #1298 | |
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