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Adjusting end links on a lowered car?
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01-14-2013, 01:24 PM | #45 |
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We ate going to build/design so crazy rims...have decide to up the budget on this project rims are the focal point!
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01-14-2013, 01:37 PM | #46 | |
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01-14-2013, 07:45 PM | #47 |
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Guys, after I adjusted them shorter the ride is now VERY rough....?? The night before, when I had them a bit longer, the ride was much better. I think the sway bar is now constantly preloaded....
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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07-09-2013, 12:13 PM | #48 | |
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07-09-2013, 01:25 PM | #49 |
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Harold@HPAutowerks (suspension specialist) said to adjust the links while wheels are on and at ride height (I put all 4 wheels on ramps) so basically car is on the ground at ride height and I can get under it and adjust the links do they're is no load. Harold said most make the mistake of pre-loading sway bar....sway bar should only have load when cornering ECT.
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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07-09-2013, 02:29 PM | #50 |
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Ive never experienced endlinks causing steering vib. Just to make sure you can dc one endlink rendering it useless to troubleshoot. also put your stock wheels back on or borrow a known good balanced set of wheels so you can eliminate the wheels being the culprit.
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07-09-2013, 03:16 PM | #51 |
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Thats a good idea, I will try my stock wheels and see what happend, can I just do the front ones or do I have to do all of them? Thanks for ur help.
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07-09-2013, 03:28 PM | #52 |
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just the front ones. another thing when diagnosing anything is trying to remember the last thing that happened (hit a hard bump) or you "upgraded a component" and then the steering vib appeared? check if all the wheel weights are in tact and inspect the tires for bubbles, sometimes theres an internal steel belt separation which goes undetected from the outside. This will make the tire very unstable and impossible to balance = the steering vib. which is why i ask to swap wheels, its a quick way to eliminate a bent wheel/tire issues. If the whole car shakes then most like the rear wheels are out of balance.
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07-09-2013, 03:54 PM | #53 | |
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07-09-2013, 04:04 PM | #54 | |
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07-09-2013, 04:24 PM | #55 | |
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Last edited by avenger2540; 07-09-2013 at 04:49 PM.. |
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07-09-2013, 04:25 PM | #56 | |
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07-09-2013, 04:56 PM | #57 | |
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07-09-2013, 09:33 PM | #58 | |
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07-10-2013, 11:19 AM | #59 |
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I am hoping that is a tire instead with a bubble, not a rim,
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07-10-2013, 11:24 AM | #60 |
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by the look of it you have M6 reps such I am guessing are forged...less likely to bend like my cast rim.
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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11-01-2017, 11:23 PM | #61 |
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Reviving a dead thread here.
I am on H&R and Koni Yellows. Put them on in 2015. My Front is ~1.5 inches lower than stock. Strange how I didn't notice this earlier, but the ride was crap. A year or so into the new setup my front shocks went bust. For a long time I didn't know if it was the shocks or my mind. Eventually, I ordered new struts under warranty and had them replaced. After replacing the front struts this summer under warranty, and installing new OEM end links i nthe process, I realized my ride was HORRIBLE. Any road imperfections would mean the car would jump sideways. What surprised me was that even on its softest setting, the Koni struts were rigid beyond just a little bit of compression. I was very disappointed. No idea how I never felt this before, especially when my front struts were blown and the car sat even lower. Long story short: I ordered adjustable end links. Set them to 13 inches (stock is 11.5), and holy crap!, the ride improved. Suspension can now do its job without interference from a pre-loaded sway bar. Instead of being rigid, it is now a lot more proper. Even my wife noticed the difference in the ride quality. Quite simply, my short end links forced the sway bar to rotate upwards. This alters the geometry of the bar in a bad way. For me, it was about 13.5 inches from the center of the wheel to the top of the wheel well. Longer front end links are NOT AN OPTION when lowering an inch or more. They are a NECESSITY. The install is very easy, thank fully. Just do it.
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11-02-2017, 10:59 AM | #62 | |
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I lowered my 2010 this past spring from base suspension to the Bilstein B12 prokit (Bilstein struts/shocks paired with Eibach springs). Lowered all four corners by an inch. But I have kept the stock sway and stock end links. Ride is firmer, but what you described is what I feel. FWIW - glad you revived this old thread.
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11-02-2017, 11:14 AM | #63 |
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Won't be any preload on swaybar if both links are same length, regardless whether lowered or not, but you are correct, to function properly need to be in correct geometrical position. What did you do with the rear links? Those need to be shorter on lowered e9x.
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11-07-2017, 07:33 PM | #64 | |
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