[AlanAZ]

Will the new NGK spark plug part #12122158253 have the NGK PLZFR6A11S label? Or will this not be present becasue it has ended as per Real OEM?

Basically, I want to know if part #12122158253 is the same as #12120035915?

Part #12122158253 is for both the Bosch and NGK 11S plug (and is therefore not the same as #12120035915.) If you go to a dealer, and buy a set of these, you could get Bosch or NGK or most probably a mix of the two. On the NGK, PLZFR6A11S is stamped into the metal collar at the base of the plug, and you could open the boxes at the dealer, see what it is, and swap the Bosch plugs until you had a full set of NGKs. Or better yet, buy this plug from an automotive supplier, know that you'll get a full set of NGK 11S, and for a better price.

[Three_thirty_I]

Right, so got my Bosch FR7NPP332 spark plugs today - according to the boxes they all come pre-gapped to 1 mm (0.394"). Worryingly on various other sites that I have searched it is suggested that these plugs are non-adjustable, or not to be adjusted rather. So for now will just make sure that they are all gapped as per the packaging and install - then see how they behave. They have multilayer (crush) washers and it is recommended to go 90° beyond hand tight or 28 NM dry torque - so not sure if copper grease anti-seize is going to be used...

Will post once fitted and so on.

[Formula Fun Racing]

I've successfully removed the coils and plugs, but I'm having trouble installing the coils on the new ILZFR6D11 plugs...I simply cannot get the plug to snap in place. I've used some silicone lube , but no luck. Any suggestions?

After reading all of the pages of this thread, I think others have had the same problem (misfires after performing the DYI).

[GoRomeo]

Interesting situation. I am planning to DIY soon and would like to know the outcome. Thanks

[ozzy1]

Temp difference may be causing it. Try snapping them on to the old ones that came out (out of the car)

I recently changed my plugs and had no problems.

Clean the tips of the coils and where they sit on the engine???

[Formula Fun Racing]

Hmmm...very odd...I can't even install them on the old plugs!

I've changed many plugs on different cars and have never experienced anything like this. Looking inside the coil receptacle, the steel coil looks fine...it should fit the nipple of the plug...I even had a BMW parts manager stop by and he is confused too! We've tried with lube, without lube...different spark plugs...different coils...none will snap into place. The next step is to try a new coil.

[Formula Fun Racing]

I've decided to start a new topic on my ignition coil re-install problem...
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1#post12507341

[Zero_09]

How are you supposed to take the coil off so you can get thr spark plug? First time working for coil. Do your turn it? Cant seem to get it off

Edit: nevermind i just turned it and it came off. I was worried i would break something off

[Zero_09]

Just replaced my spark plugs and started it up. Definitely idling a lot more rough and it's shaking a bit. Also got the yellow check engine light? Not sure what I did wrong here?

[ozzy1]

Originally Posted by Zero_09

Just replaced my spark plugs and started it up. Definitely idling a lot more rough and it's shaking a bit. Also got the yellow check engine light? Not sure what I did wrong here?

You probably need to seat the coils better. Check all of them, make sure they sort of pop in place and are all the way down.

[Zero_09]

Yeah I took them all out to see if the gab was correct and made sure everything was seated down. Started it up and there was still the check engine list on. Took my OBDII reader and cleared it and everything was good after. No rough idle too. The code said my cylinder 4 was misfiring.

edit: Also I got the BMS spark plug tool and it did not fit the spark plug. I'm kind of angry about it since I bought it specifically for this job and it was useless. What a waste.

[Three_thirty_I]

Okay, so finally got my act together and fitted the new spark plugs. Stripped off the necessary covers and gently removed each coil pack in sequence so that they don't get mixed up, loosened all of the spark plugs and then removed and replaced one at a time, again so that the plugs stay in sequence. Took some pics of course...



Six rather innocent looking coil packs, also took note of part numbers etc to cross reference with RealOEM.




Old plugs out - from left to right is front to rear of the engine, and then compared to one of the new Bosch plugs. Old BMW branded plugs were NGK of course.




With all plugs finger tight I set the torque wrench to 28 NM and tightened up to the 90° and spot on, there was a click from the torque wrench! Gaps were all verified as exactly 1 mm and left them like that. Didn't bother with copper grease - old plugs didn't have any trace of anything used. Had to use some dish washing liquid on the rubber grommets for the engine cover to get it back on. The number 5 spark plug was tricky to remove and replace with the strut brace, but was able to manage without having to remove it.

Everything back together and with fingers crossed, started her up - no drama, started up as if nothing had happened, so relieved and there was no misfire or rough idle as experienced by various other people on the E90 forum. Went for a drive and everything seemed fine but can still hear the pinking, a lot less by comparison, but still there, so pretty disappointed - still worth doing I reckon. And of course will keep an eye on things as the car gets driven more. Could also be that the engine needs to adjust or condition to the new plugs - will see.

[bmwhitman]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

Okay, so finally got my act together and fitted the new spark plugs. Stripped off the necessary covers and gently removed each coil pack in sequence so that they don't get mixed up, loosened all of the spark plugs and then removed and replaced one at a time, again so that the plugs stay in sequence. Took some pics of course...



Six rather innocent looking coil packs, also took note of part numbers etc to cross reference with RealOEM.




Old plugs out - from left to right is front to rear of the engine, and then compared to one of the new Bosch plugs. Old BMW branded plugs were NGK of course.




With all plugs finger tight I set the torque wrench to 28 NM and tightened up to the 90° and spot on, there was a click from the torque wrench! Gaps were all verified as exactly 1 mm and left them like that. Didn't bother with copper grease - old plugs didn't have any trace of anything used. Had to use some dish washing liquid on the rubber grommets for the engine cover to get it back on. The number 5 spark plug was tricky to remove and replace with the strut brace, but was able to manage without having to remove it.

Everything back together and with fingers crossed, started her up - no drama, started up as if nothing had happened, so relieved and there was no misfire or rough idle as experienced by various other people on the E90 forum. Went for a drive and everything seemed fine but can still hear the pinking, a lot less by comparison, but still there, so pretty disappointed - still worth doing I reckon. And of course will keep an eye on things as the car gets driven more. Could also be that the engine needs to adjust or condition to the new plugs - will see.

Great work! Let us know how your fuel mileage is with the change in updated plugs.

[Three_thirty_I]

Will do. So far so good, but I doubt that there will be too much of a difference - the old plugs probably still had plenty of life in them. My main issue is getting rid of the pinging, tried new plugs which has slightly improved matters, but not much, tempted to try an injector cleaner, Liquimoli etc.

[mazingjiwei]

good DIY, thanks

[bmwhitman]

When is it appropriate to change the spark plug boots and coils? Is it necessary? I'm planning to DIY on spark plugs and have 108,000 km/67,000 miles but wasn't sure.

Are there wear and tear signs I'm suppose to lookout for? If so what does it look like?

[jaredb]

This is the first work I've ever done on my E90. I was dreading doing it, but really didn't want to go through another thousand dollar visit at the dealer. I am fine with the oil changes, since they last quite a while.

But I decided I should start doing repairs myself. I thought spark plugs would not be out the reach of my capabilities.

However, trying to find information to figure out exactly how to go about doing it, including the Haynes Repair Manual seemed nonexistent until I found your post. Without your detailed instructions and pictures, I would not have been able to do this. Mind you I am an electrician by trade and very mechanically inclined.

Betty loves her new plugs and the performance air filter I dropped in as well. First time ever the DTC light flashed when I nailed it turning right form a stop sign. This leads me to believe it is correct to change the plugs at 60,000 miles. My car had 50,000 when I bought it. You can get 100,000 miles out of a set of plugs, but after driving it with new plugs I know that they lose most of the efficiency much sooner.

Kudos and thanks once again.

[OlivaresAnthony]

Thanks for posting this DIY! I changed out my plugs and coils today at 85,300 miles. My butt dyno tells me the car drives better and pulls a little harder. When I first started the car up, it idled very roughly. I went back and noticed the cables that plug into the coils weren't pushed in all the way. I pushed them in all the way and the car started up just fine afterwards, maybe that's the issue others are having.

[Cisco661]

Just replaced spark plugs on my 330i few days ago. Cars feels and runs alot better now. Changed them out at 69k miles. Totally forgot to take pics of them to post.

[nycbr]

I was watching Motorweek last night and Pat Goss, their resident mechanic, suggested that on cars with aluminum heads you should first loosen the spark plugs slightly, then put the coils back on and rev the engine hard, to remove any carbon from the tip of the spark plug that could foul the threads, then remove the spark plug.

Just putting it out there...

[ekim00]

Hey,

I'm not very good with cars, but does this DIY apply to 330xi as well? I have a 2006 330xi and would like to do this on my own.

Thanks

[ozzy1]

Originally Posted by nycbr

I was watching Motorweek last night and Pat Goss, their resident mechanic, suggested that on cars with aluminum heads you should first loosen the spark plugs slightly, then put the coils back on and rev the engine hard, to remove any carbon from the tip of the spark plug that could foul the threads, then remove the spark plug.

Just putting it out there...

I watched the same thing, funny you posted about that. Just a week or two after I changed my plugs. What he says makes sense, maybe a bit OCD but don't know.