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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > ****335i N54 general questions**** tune, exhaust, fault codes, etc thread



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      01-09-2012, 08:45 AM   #23
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      01-09-2012, 01:01 PM   #24
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      01-10-2012, 11:09 AM   #25
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      01-10-2012, 12:25 PM   #26
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no questions being asked yet?? lol

I'll shoot one...
I'm looking for a FMIC and trying to understand how it works together

Someone please correct my understanding if it's incorrect...

A larger FMIC will mean lower IAT, but will also mean larger decrease in boost pressure. The result is that the turbos need to work harder to reach target boost?

By the same logic, an efficient, but not so large FMIC will mean slightly higher IAT, but a lesser decrease in boost pressure. The result is that the turbos work less to reach target boost, but power gains aren't as great since the air is hotter entering the intake manifold.

I read a while back some giant thread about FMICs which made my head swirl... . Everyone was just saying which FMIC is better, but if the logic above is indeed correct, wouldn't it be impossible for everyone to have the absolute best FMIC? Wouldn't there be two catagories of "best" FMICs? One that lowers the IAT the most & one that retains the most boost pressure? or... is there a best of two worlds?

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      01-10-2012, 02:41 PM   #27
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^that logic doesn't apply 100%. You can have a highly efficient large intercooler with minimal pressure drop, and a small intercooler with just as much pressure drop, but far less cooling surface. Most intercoolers sold by reputable brands have efficient and effective core design with just as good if not better pressure drop than stock. I run an ets 5" on my 335i, but I had and hpf and big tom on my old 135i. Honestly, the 5" ets is perfect for any stock turbo setup. I thought the hpf was very nice, too, but didn't notice any improvement over iat or wgdc compared with the big tom.
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      01-10-2012, 02:49 PM   #28
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Awesome Thanks!
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      01-10-2012, 04:32 PM   #29
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meth setup

Ok, question for you then,

I have a devil's own stage 1 meth kit with a snow FSB and JB4. Can I integrate the snow FSB to the JB4 like the BMS FSB? If so which wire do I connect where? If this works will I still need that cheap pressure/boost switch from DO? Also, meth runs through the snow FSB, where in the system would i put this and the solenoid?

thanks
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      01-10-2012, 09:22 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdnno98 View Post
Ok, question for you then,

I have a devil's own stage 1 meth kit with a snow FSB and JB4. Can I integrate the snow FSB to the JB4 like the BMS FSB? If so which wire do I connect where? If this works will I still need that cheap pressure/boost switch from DO? Also, meth runs through the snow FSB, where in the system would i put this and the solenoid?

thanks
yes, the snow fsb should suffice, as long as it's a 5v signal. i'm not 100% familiar with the jb4 harness; i only tried one out for a few days, a year ago. there should be a wire to connect to. if you're running an fsb, and can configure the settings in your user software, you shouldn't need a boost switch. the fsb and solenoid should be close to the nozzle(s)
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      01-10-2012, 10:36 PM   #31
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Brake code

Cc-id 71
Changed my brakes and I still get in red car on a lift

When I try to reset it nothing shows in red like when I reset the oil change light
I double checked the brake sensors are fully plugged in and in place, I even removed my jb4 cause I thought it might be blocking the reset some how.

One last thing I'm gonna try is change my brakes sensors my rotor pads kit came with non oem sensors and oem. They look the same I noticed the oem sensors in the bottom of the box after I finished the job.

Any ideas???
Ty,
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      01-11-2012, 08:10 AM   #32
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Brake sensors are probably alright. See if you can reset cbs via BT tool, or go to the dealership and see if they will reset it for you. My dealership reset my brake interval free once
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      01-11-2012, 03:22 PM   #33
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I am getting ready to buy some performance upgrades for my 335 at the moment. I am probably going to get a tune, intake, flywheel, exhaust and possibly intercooler. I have talked to a bunch of different people as to what I should and shouldn't do and have become pretty frustrated with the lack of consistency.
First main question is regarding exhaust. I am wanting to do a turbo-back cat delete exhaust as that is where you get the best power increase. My only worry is it messing with the computer in the timing etc due to the cats missing. I know there is a sensor that you put in to replace the one at the cat. I was recently told they dont tend to work well and it will lead to ecu issues as the computer will try to compensate for it. Is this true? I want to go catless for the sound and power however I don't want to have to deal with any ecu/electronic issues.

Thanks for the help,
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      01-11-2012, 07:58 PM   #34
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^unless you're dying for a significantly louder car, i'd avoid getting an exhaust. 90% of power potential of exhaust mods is catless downpipes. catless downpipes with stock exhaust and golf-tee mod sounds awesome IMO. get 3" downpipes (matt schnell, ar design, budget option vsrf), intercooler, tune, and intake, you'll have tons of power. i'd avoid a flywheel upgrade for now, as well. so, to break down the costs:

tune ($350-750.........jb4, procede, cobb)
intake ($95 or free with tune.........bms, etc)
downpipes ($375-750........vsrf, matt schnell, ar design)
intercooler ($150-900.........big tom, ets 5", most others are $700-900)

Last edited by bryce; 03-12-2012 at 04:45 PM..
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      01-11-2012, 08:00 PM   #35
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also, the stock n54 ecu will quickly adapt to catless downpipes; you won't run lean or risk damaging your engine. stock ecu on these cars is outrageously awesome, this is nothing like suby, mitsu, honda's, etc. you can do full bolt-ons on the stock ecu without risking any lean or damaging engine conditions. a tune will maximize gains with bolt-ons, otherwise bolt-ons on stock ecu doesn't add much power
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      01-11-2012, 08:41 PM   #36
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hi sifu, im only on JB4 n DCI, what will be the cause after i rev my car at more than 220kmh then error message will pop up "Engine Fault, Power Reduced" , tq
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      01-12-2012, 03:58 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryce View Post
yes, the snow fsb should suffice, as long as it's a 5v signal. i'm not 100% familiar with the jb4 harness; i only tried one out for a few days, a year ago. there should be a wire to connect to. if you're running an fsb, and can configure the settings in your user software, you shouldn't need a boost switch. the fsb and solenoid should be close to the nozzle(s)
Thanks man that helped. Snow has also been a lot of help. I've been impressed with them so far. I'm gonna try to install it soon.
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      01-12-2012, 09:33 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ble70 View Post
hi sifu, im only on JB4 n DCI, what will be the cause after i rev my car at more than 220kmh then error message will pop up "Engine Fault, Power Reduced" , tq
That's 135 mph approx. Do you have the sports package? It could be the speed limited causing issues. See if you can read the fault codes associated with the error message

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdnno98 View Post
Thanks man that helped. Snow has also been a lot of help. I've been impressed with them so far. I'm gonna try to install it soon.
Snow performance makes decent products
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      01-13-2012, 08:53 AM   #39
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      01-13-2012, 01:12 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryce View Post
^unless you're dying for a significantly louder car, i'd avoid getting an exhaust. 90% of power potential of exhaust mods is catless downpipes. catless downpipes with stock exhaust and golf-tee mod sounds awesome IMO. get 3" downpipes (matt schnell, ar design, budget option vsrf), intercooler, tune, and intake, you'll have tons of power. i'd avoid a flywheel upgrade for now, as well. so, to break down the costs:

tune ($350-750.........jb4, procede, cobb)
intake ($95 or free with tune.........bms, etc)
downpipes ($375-750........vsrf, matt schnell, ar design)
intercooler ($150-900.........big town, ets 5", most others are $700-900)
Thank you for all the info bryce, its all very helpful. I will probably get all that done in the near future. My co-worker let me borrow a SplitSecond turbo tuner that definitely made a change but I'm liking what the JB4 can do. The JB4 for sure seems like the way to go. I will most likely get the BMS intake with the JB4. Still unsure if getting an intercooler is necessary as this is my street car and won't be going hard on it for a long duration of time. I've got a racecar for the track, won't be using this on track much if at all. However if I find a good priced one I might just go for it.
As far as the flywheel, is there a reason you say to hold back on that? Reason I bring that up is because my crew chief got me on so I just have it sitting there waiting to go in. Will be no cost to me even to install as I will be doing it myself.
Any other input?
Thanks a lot!
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      01-13-2012, 01:22 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xiDriver View Post
Thank you for all the info bryce, its all very helpful. I will probably get all that done in the near future. My co-worker let me borrow a SplitSecond turbo tuner that definitely made a change but I'm liking what the JB4 can do. The JB4 for sure seems like the way to go. I will most likely get the BMS intake with the JB4. Still unsure if getting an intercooler is necessary as this is my street car and won't be going hard on it for a long duration of time. I've got a racecar for the track, won't be using this on track much if at all. However if I find a good priced one I might just go for it.
As far as the flywheel, is there a reason you say to hold back on that? Reason I bring that up is because my crew chief got me on so I just have it sitting there waiting to go in. Will be no cost to me even to install as I will be doing it myself.
Any other input?
Thanks a lot!
Not to start a tuner war, but the jb4 is the least advanced in the group (procede, cobb, jb4). The procede features dialed-in timing control via cps offset, the cobb re-writes timing tables. The jb4 offers no timing control as-is. You can add on a cps module, but burger tuning is no where near vishnu in properly employing cps to control timing.

Its your money, buy what you want. Just really research what tune has which features. In all honesty, I don't know why any fully informed person would buy a jb4.
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      01-13-2012, 01:26 PM   #42
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If you have a flywheel, and install is free, that's different. I still think you loose a little torque and the rpms fall off too quickly with a lightweight flywheel. I was mainly saying that to save money and put it to better use. An intercooler is a necessary bolt-on if you're increasing boost IMO. The stock IC barely works at stock boost levels. Even if you don't track your car or get on it much, an IC will go along way in keeping IATs low, improving timing, etc
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      01-13-2012, 06:04 PM   #43
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Bryce,
Just looked at those 3 different tuners. From a quick look Procede looks the most user friendly and on top of that, the most effective and efficient. However that is after a quick look and I didn't take too much time at looking at the Cobb one. Procede definitely seems committed to getting the most out of an N54 and have tried quite a few different thing. I would be curious to what you use and what you have preferred in the past. Procede most definitely makes everything the most clear. Let me know your thoughts.
As far as the flywheel I would think that the pros would have to outweigh the cons, wouldn't you have to agree?...especially when it's free!
I agree with the IC as well, probably will get my hands on one.

Thanks again! I really appreciate it.
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      01-14-2012, 03:05 PM   #44
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