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      06-08-2010, 08:45 PM   #1
fdriller9
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2006 330xi  [3.22]
Maintenance Help!

So I'll be doing some required and preventative maintenance this week and need some help. I'm going to be replacing my transmission fluid, brake fluid, oil, oil filter, microfilter, rotors and pads. Any tips and suggestions appreciated!

I'll be following the following DIY guides:

Transmission fluid:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=brake+fluid

Brake Pads/Bleeding: How do I change rotors?
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=brakes

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm

Oil Change:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ght=oil+change

Anti-Rust Hubs: No brainer.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=brakes

I'll be getting these parts:

Brake Fluid: How much do I need?
http://www.**********s.com/Motul-RBF...rake-Fluid.htm

BMW Performance Rotors:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...catalogid=4462

It says they are sold individually? Do I need to order a left and right?

Tischer Tune Up Kit: Anyone want the air filter? I have an aFe oiled drop in.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...catalogid=4462

Any DIY rotor guides? Should I change my diff fluid? Any tools I should get? I have a BT tool. I'm getting a pressure bleeder and torque wrench. I have a full wrench and socket set. I'm confused about bleeding. I get the basic idea....but do I take out the fluid in the reservoir before I start bleeding? I'm going to be so busy this week!

Thanks guys!

Last edited by fdriller9; 06-08-2010 at 08:51 PM.
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      06-08-2010, 08:46 PM   #2
fdriller9
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Damn it this should be in the maintenance section...my bad.
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      06-08-2010, 09:06 PM   #3
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You know what....I found this:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=brake+fluid

But I still need help with the rotors/bleeding process.

Last edited by fdriller9; 06-08-2010 at 09:31 PM.
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      06-08-2010, 09:48 PM   #4
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if you don't have a brake bleeder, you can do the traditional method and steping on the brakes and cycle the fluid out. However some believe it causes extra wear and tear on the brake system
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      06-08-2010, 09:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ********* View Post
So I'll be doing some required and preventative maintenance this week and need some help.
...
I'm confused about bleeding. I get the basic idea....but do I take out the fluid in the reservoir before I start bleeding? I'm going to be so busy this week!

Thanks guys!
Bleeding is not difficult. Usually you start by taking the fluid from the reservoir and replacing it with fresh fluid. You may want to look up the bleeding procedure written up on the Bavarian Autosport web site:

http://www.bavauto.com/Assets/inst_pages/ins030.pdf

The writeup refers to the bleeding tool BA sells, but there is enough information in it to be useful in general.

Good luck.
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      06-08-2010, 09:51 PM   #6
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2006 330xi  [4.75]
The rotors are easy. Theres a 6mm(?) allen screw on the face of the rotor that you can see when you remove the wheel. After you remove the caliper, just unscrew it and wack the top of the rotor with a rubber mallet off the car. Then just put new rotor on and screw the allen back on
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      06-08-2010, 09:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ********* View Post
Any DIY rotor guides? Should I change my diff fluid? Any tools I should get? I have a BT tool. I'm getting a pressure bleeder and torque wrench. I have a full wrench and socket set. I'm confused about bleeding. I get the basic idea....but do I take out the fluid in the reservoir before I start bleeding? I'm going to be so busy this week!

Thanks guys!
Hi,

Once the caliper is off, removing the rotor is straightforward. Note that single screw that holds the rotor to the hub; remove that and the rotor should come off. Sometimes, buildup makes the rotor stick to the hub and if so, some light tapping with a mallet around the rim should do the trick.

Make sure you clean off the seating area well with a wire brush before installing the new rotor.

As for bleeding the brakes, you can probably buy a pressure cap that screws onto the reservoir. Then it's a relatively easy one-person job to bleed the system. If not, then the two-person technique works fine. Note however that on some ABS-equipped cars it is not possible to get all the fluid out of the pump. The dealer may have special equipment to do that.

Regards,
Adnan
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      06-08-2010, 10:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kylekuu View Post
if you don't have a brake bleeder, you can do the traditional method and steping on the brakes and cycle the fluid out. However some believe it causes extra wear and tear on the brake system
I have a brake bleeder, it's called MY WIFE. The best way, in my opinion to bleed the brakes is to suck out the old fluid in the reservoir and add new brake fluid. Get some one half competent and have them help. The helper needs to put light pressure on the brake pedal as you open the bleeder valve on each caliper 9one at a time of course). Do right rear, left rear, right front, then, left front. The helper doesn't need to pump the brakes- just foot pressure on the pedal, just make sure they don't bottom out the pedal hard. It's a lot easier than a power bleeder or vacuum bleeder.

Not knowing what tools you have, you need:
17MM socket for lug bolts.
Breaker bar to remove the lug bolts
Full set of metric wrenches from 6MM to 19MM
Full set of sockets 6MM to 19MM
drive, 3/8 drive, and drive ratchets
Full set of Allen sockets - the rotor retaining bolt is 6MM. The caliper mounting bolts are 7MM.
drive torque wrench
Flat screwdrivers to pry the calipers off
C-clamp, or piston compressing tool for calipers
Needle-nose pliers
pick
coat hanger to hang the caliper while it is dismounted.

Get the Bentley manual.

Tischer will sell you a set of rotors. I think the BMW performance rotors are not slotted just drilled, so they are not directional.

Have fun.
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      06-09-2010, 01:19 AM   #9
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Some torques you will need: (I believe or assume 330 is the same as my 335i)

Wheel bolts: 120 nm
Rear caliper carrier: 65 nm
Front caliper carrier: 110nm
Rotor allen screw: 16nm
Oil drain plug and oil filter cap: 25 nm.
Rear diff filler plug: 60 nm.

If you are going to use Motul 600 RBF, then might as well buy a pressure bleeder as you will be changing fluid - alot. This fluid, like many racing brake fluids, is very hygroscopic. If only needing a high quality street fluid, then Castrol LMA or ATE 200/Super Blue are more resistant to absorbing water, and much cheaper to purchase.

Don't forget the new pad sensors.

Good Luck.
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      06-09-2010, 08:50 PM   #10
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Thanks for all the responses guys! Really appreciate it. So I think I have the bleeding process down and the rotors as well. I didn't know it was held on by one screw! Anyway I got a pressure bleeder and a magnetic catch can. I decided to go with ATE Super Blue as someone said something about moisture and also I heard it's easier to tell when you have completely flushed the system. I got 2 liters of ATE, the bleeder and a catch can for $100 shipped on amazon. Not bad. I got 2 liters you guys think that's enough? Also anyone know how the oil measurement system works? My car is fluctuating between 2/3 and 1/3 full. I don't see any oil leaking where I park in my driveway so I don't think it's leaking. Can oil just burn off? My car is going in to the dealer tomorrow because my fuel system is leaking so I'm going to have them check that out. I just want to see if anyone knows how the system works. Also anyone know where to get a quality torque wrench? Thanks!
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      06-10-2010, 12:05 AM   #11
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if there's no leaks then don't worry about it. About the torque wrench, don't worry too much about a quality name brand. Any will do at least IMO. Even if you buy the best of the best, if you drop/bang the wrench you'll risk damaging the settings anyways. Unless you know a person/place to recalibrate it every year; you might as well just get a cheaper one that does the job and replace it later on.

2 litres of fluid is enough, make sure you get some denatured oil so you can clean it afterwards (the bleeder i mean).
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      06-10-2010, 12:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kylekuu View Post
if there's no leaks then don't worry about it. About the torque wrench, don't worry too much about a quality name brand. Any will do at least IMO. Even if you buy the best of the best, if you drop/bang the wrench you'll risk damaging the settings anyways. Unless you know a person/place to recalibrate it every year; you might as well just get a cheaper one that does the job and replace it later on.

2 litres of fluid is enough, make sure you get some denatured oil so you can clean it afterwards (the bleeder i mean).
I have always wondered how to properly clean my bleeder after the job, thanks for the tip. What are some readily available denatured oil that I can get (or what do you use)? Thanks!
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      06-10-2010, 01:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kylekuu View Post
if there's no leaks then don't worry about it. About the torque wrench, don't worry too much about a quality name brand. Any will do at least IMO. Even if you buy the best of the best, if you drop/bang the wrench you'll risk damaging the settings anyways. Unless you know a person/place to recalibrate it every year; you might as well just get a cheaper one that does the job and replace it later on.

2 litres of fluid is enough, make sure you get some denatured oil so you can clean it afterwards (the bleeder i mean).
With Snap-On just down the road, I wouldn't think re-calibration would be a problem.
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      06-11-2010, 01:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I have always wondered how to properly clean my bleeder after the job, thanks for the tip. What are some readily available denatured oil that I can get (or what do you use)? Thanks!
Never mind, I guess I should have read the instruction from Motive.
The POWER BLEEDER is very easy to use and maintain.
For instructions on how to use the unit please see the SUPPORT page. To clean the POWER BLEEDER after use
pour denatured alcohol into the tank and into the tube. Dispose of the dirty alcohol. Allow the unit to air dry. Store in a
cool, dry, dark area with the hose wrapped loosely around the unit. DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER ON ANY PART
OF THE UNIT. If denatured alcohol can not be found a mild dish washing detergent may be used, however insure all
soap is rinsed out prior to air drying unit and that unit is completely dry prior to next use.
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      06-11-2010, 04:36 PM   #15
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BMW Performance Rotors

Are you really willing to spend$165 per side --- sounds way too much -- seek alternatives.
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      06-11-2010, 08:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123Britt View Post
Are you really willing to spend$165 per side --- sounds way too much -- seek alternatives.
I didn't order them yet. I'll look around. Anyway got my fluid, bleeder and catch can today. I will be bleeding my brakes tomorrow! I'll let you guys know how it goes.
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      06-12-2010, 05:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmernoob View Post
Never mind, I guess I should have read the instruction from Motive.
The POWER BLEEDER is very easy to use and maintain.
For instructions on how to use the unit please see the SUPPORT page. To clean the POWER BLEEDER after use
pour denatured alcohol into the tank and into the tube. Dispose of the dirty alcohol. Allow the unit to air dry. Store in a
cool, dry, dark area with the hose wrapped loosely around the unit. DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER ON ANY PART
OF THE UNIT. If denatured alcohol can not be found a mild dish washing detergent may be used, however insure all
soap is rinsed out prior to air drying unit and that unit is completely dry prior to next use.
This is what I use on my brake bleeder too. Works great!
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      06-12-2010, 08:03 AM   #18
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Motive Bower Bleeder Always Clean

I have never put fluid in the bleeder -- because I have only used it for pressure.
.
.
I just fill the resevoir to the top and then go to 20psi and go to the right rear and open the valve -- fluid comes out in bottle. Yes I have to refill as it get low but NO CLEANING. Takes a little longer -- but it works.
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      06-12-2010, 10:31 PM   #19
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Just bled my brakes. Wasn't that bad...it was actually alot easier than I thought. The only thing I was hesitant about was jacking the car up on stands. I know how to do the front but not the rear. Also the floor jack I used rolled slightly when I jacked it up. Is that normal?

Can someone explain the rear for future reference? I've heard good and bad things about using the rear diff area. Pictures would be nice. I searched around but I couldn't find a definitive answer. Every thread kept arguing whether the method was ok or not.
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