E90Post
 


 
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Cosmetic and Lighting Modifications (exterior/interior) > Gauge needles replacement, now have issue



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      06-30-2011, 09:29 AM   #1
Thumperx
Major
United_States
88
Rep
1,404
Posts

Drives: 335I coupe
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SE Michigan

iTrader: (77)

Gauge needles replacement, now have issue

I installed the M3 needles with no problem, and reinstalled the gauge unit. Now some of the gauge needles do not move. It powers up normally. Speedo and tach moves freely (before installing back into the car). Gas and oil temp are "firm" to rotate. When I turn on the car, the fuel works but none other 3 gauges works.

Did I damage the IP mechanism? I did some searching and came across a topic of gauge testing via the BC button. Do I need to perform or reset the instrument cluster test or is there something else I missed?

Thanx for any help.

Last edited by Thumperx; 06-30-2011 at 09:57 AM..
Appreciate 1
      06-30-2011, 12:20 PM   #2
Thumperx
Major
United_States
88
Rep
1,404
Posts

Drives: 335I coupe
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SE Michigan

iTrader: (77)

Anyone?
Appreciate 0
      06-30-2011, 06:11 PM   #3
e90TiAg335i
Major
e90TiAg335i's Avatar
United_States
124
Rep
1,151
Posts

Drives: 10 e90 335i
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: jacksonville, FL

iTrader: (10)

Garage List
2010 e90 335i  [7.00]
Take the gauge back apart. There is a white "box" that the needles attach too. Carefully pry open the box, you'll have to cut some of the melted tabs on top in order to release the cover. You'll then see a worm drive shaft that has most likely popped out of position. Place it back in place then re-attach the cover. That should take care of the problem. When you pressed the needles on, you simply pushed the cover off enough to allow the worm shaft to move out of position. Good luck!
__________________

JB4, DP, VMR V710, Sonic Tuning S1 coilovers, Hybrid Ovations, Soundsplinter 10" and Zapco DC Ref amps
Appreciate 1
      06-30-2011, 07:27 PM   #4
yakev724
Brigadier General
yakev724's Avatar
229
Rep
3,561
Posts

Drives: 15 S3
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: NYC

iTrader: (49)

Or you pushed the needles in too far and the friction between them and the gauge faces is keeping them from moving.

I've got 3 of the 'white boxes' containing the motors in working form if you need them, btw. To take them off the board, you need to find the corresponding 2 or 3 white tabs on the opposite side of the 'box', push the small tab at their center inside, and push the main tab through the board, do it for the 2/3 of the motor box and it'll pop off, the contacts with the board are just bent metal pins so they aren't soldered on.
Appreciate 0
      06-30-2011, 10:03 PM   #5
Thumperx
Major
United_States
88
Rep
1,404
Posts

Drives: 335I coupe
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SE Michigan

iTrader: (77)

Thanks E90 and Yak for info and offer. E90, I did open up the unit and got all of the boards separated. So I know what you're talking about the white box servos on the bottom board.

Yak, I'm going to pull the cluster out tonight and follow E90's advice and procedure. If I need replacement servos, I will immediately let you know.

Much thanks for the responses, and I'll let you know what I find.
Appreciate 1
      07-19-2011, 04:20 PM   #6
Thumperx
Major
United_States
88
Rep
1,404
Posts

Drives: 335I coupe
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SE Michigan

iTrader: (77)

*Update*

I've successfully fixed my M3 gauge cluster needles swap. Originally, when I pulled the old gauge needles out, I had disconnected the worm gear from the gauge needle's sun gear which is located in the white box servo housings.

If you have similar issues, you do NOT need to remove the white servos from the computer board. You do need a soldering iron to de-melt the security caps that secures the top and bottom halves of the servo units.

Once you de-melt these two locations, separating the halves can be easily done by a small flat head screw driver from the sides once the top half is separated and removed, you will be able see and access the interior. Reposition the worm gear back into its notch. You may need a tweezers or similar device to aid in this procedure.

Replace the top half back on to the servo box. Place the affected gauge back. "Feel" for engagement. If you feel engagement, then melt the caps back (to your best ability) on the servo boxes. This may take several times to get right, be patient.

Button the cluster back up, and place the cluster back into the Instrument panel. *NOTE* When I placed the plug back into the cluster, power is restored to the cluster unit. At this point, the speedo and tach gauge needles rotate out of position to the 9 o'clock from 0. If you have similar issue, you may need to reorient the needle/s so they will be repositioned at the "0" after power is restored to the cluster. Before plugging in, position the gauge needle/s forward the same amount of distance of the problem needle location. Restore power by placing the plug into the cluster's back, the gauge needles should rotate and return to the "0" position. Now you can wipe the sweat from your brow.

Don't ask me why this happens. It took me a SEVERAL attempts before I figured it out.

Thanks E90 and Yak for your help.

Last edited by Thumperx; 07-11-2012 at 12:07 AM..
Appreciate 3
      07-19-2011, 06:58 PM   #7
zeenon53
Major
zeenon53's Avatar
39
Rep
1,154
Posts

Drives: BMW
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: obx

iTrader: (3)

Have any pics of this mod??
Appreciate 0
      06-12-2012, 09:02 PM   #8
Thumper335i
Registered
United_States
0
Rep
1
Posts

Drives: '07 335i 6sp sedan
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Houston, TX

iTrader: (0)

yakev724: know where I can get a couple of these white servo's? I can't get it apart.
Appreciate 0
      07-07-2012, 10:16 AM   #9
Thumperx
Major
United_States
88
Rep
1,404
Posts

Drives: 335I coupe
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SE Michigan

iTrader: (77)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper335i View Post
yakev724: know where I can get a couple of these white servo's? I can't get it apart.
Dude, if you're trying to separate the white servo casings read post #6. The answer is stated.
__________________
Name: Blanca | 07 E92 | AW-Blk | ZSP | Alcon BBK | M3 Bits | VM RR Links | Koni | UUC Sways | V5 | Dinan CAI | ETS IC | Fge DV | ER CP | Cyba | Raden. Exh | Mod Step | Trunk Drawer | Perf LED Wheel | Illum Dr Sills | IS Shifter | Parrot | Philps D1S | 6000k fog | MTECH RR | CSL Trunk | Aero | Roof Spoiler | PSS on BBS RS-GT 19s

Last edited by Thumperx; 07-07-2012 at 10:27 AM..
Appreciate 0
      10-15-2012, 11:51 AM   #10
M4_Husky
New Member
8
Rep
6
Posts

Drives: BMW M4
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: NC

iTrader: (0)

Thumperx: I think I have exactly the same problem as you describe. I tried replacing the needles with red ones and the speedometer / tachometer stopped moving (they moved freely before I put the cluster back in).

I tried looking at their white box servos, but was unable to determine how to open them up. You mention that you melted the safety pins... Are these 2 white plastic pins on the top plate of the servos?
Could you give me a bit more detail? If I am unable to solve it myself, I might have to bring it to a specialist

This has been really frustrating and any help would be very much appreciated.

There seems to be nothing else on the web about how to disassemble the servos (that I can find, anyway), which is why I resorted to messaging you: this is my first post on E90.

Thanks!
Appreciate 0
      10-16-2012, 08:52 PM   #11
Thumperx
Major
United_States
88
Rep
1,404
Posts

Drives: 335I coupe
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SE Michigan

iTrader: (77)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisBMW335i View Post
Thumperx: Are these 2 white plastic pins on the top plate of the servos?
YES

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisBMW335i View Post
Could you give me a bit more detail?
What details are you looking for other than what I've described in the thread? Once you manage to open the servo cases, the details given in my thread will become more apparent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisBMW335i View Post
If I am unable to solve it myself, I might have to bring it to a specialist
You MUST be patient and try every step I've mentioned. It's not easy. If you see a specialist, might as well buy a new cluster (instead of having some trying to fix it) and car recoded.
__________________
Name: Blanca | 07 E92 | AW-Blk | ZSP | Alcon BBK | M3 Bits | VM RR Links | Koni | UUC Sways | V5 | Dinan CAI | ETS IC | Fge DV | ER CP | Cyba | Raden. Exh | Mod Step | Trunk Drawer | Perf LED Wheel | Illum Dr Sills | IS Shifter | Parrot | Philps D1S | 6000k fog | MTECH RR | CSL Trunk | Aero | Roof Spoiler | PSS on BBS RS-GT 19s

Last edited by Thumperx; 11-04-2012 at 08:22 AM..
Appreciate 0
      11-04-2012, 08:22 AM   #12
Thumperx
Major
United_States
88
Rep
1,404
Posts

Drives: 335I coupe
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SE Michigan

iTrader: (77)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisBMW335i View Post
Thumperx: I think I have exactly the same problem as you describe. I tried replacing the needles with red ones and the speedometer / tachometer stopped moving (they moved freely before I put the cluster back in).

I tried looking at their white box servos, but was unable to determine how to open them up. You mention that you melted the safety pins... Are these 2 white plastic pins on the top plate of the servos?
Could you give me a bit more detail? If I am unable to solve it myself, I might have to bring it to a specialist

This has been really frustrating and any help would be very much appreciated.

There seems to be nothing else on the web about how to disassemble the servos (that I can find, anyway), which is why I resorted to messaging you: this is my first post on E90.

Thanks!
Chris, did you ever get your issue resolved
__________________
Name: Blanca | 07 E92 | AW-Blk | ZSP | Alcon BBK | M3 Bits | VM RR Links | Koni | UUC Sways | V5 | Dinan CAI | ETS IC | Fge DV | ER CP | Cyba | Raden. Exh | Mod Step | Trunk Drawer | Perf LED Wheel | Illum Dr Sills | IS Shifter | Parrot | Philps D1S | 6000k fog | MTECH RR | CSL Trunk | Aero | Roof Spoiler | PSS on BBS RS-GT 19s
Appreciate 0
      04-12-2014, 03:01 AM   #13
KiwiJoe
Registered
0
Rep
4
Posts

Drives: 318i
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: New Zealand

iTrader: (0)

I have a strange issue with mine, I had to split the servo and sort the shaft, now when i plug in, i get it all working perfect, but if i unplug and reconnect the needle stops working, i find if i pull apart, put main gear high, reconnect it winds itself down to zero, then all works fine until i unplug?

Everything worked fine for 1 week, now it stopped again.

Any suggestions?
Appreciate 0
      02-28-2015, 11:05 PM   #14
EndOfAnEra
Lieutenant Colonel
EndOfAnEra's Avatar
512
Rep
1,705
Posts

Drives: AW X3 35i Msport + S2000
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Largo, FL

iTrader: (13)

Thanks to this thread I was able to fix my non-working needles after my needle swap...I am forever grateful! BUMP
__________________
Appreciate 0
      03-01-2015, 09:00 AM   #15
Thumperx
Major
United_States
88
Rep
1,404
Posts

Drives: 335I coupe
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SE Michigan

iTrader: (77)

Quote:
Originally Posted by EndOfAnEra View Post
Thanks to this thread I was able to fix my non-working needles after my needle swap...I am forever grateful! BUMP
That's awesome to read that you were able solve your binnacle problem. Patiences has paid off.
__________________
Name: Blanca | 07 E92 | AW-Blk | ZSP | Alcon BBK | M3 Bits | VM RR Links | Koni | UUC Sways | V5 | Dinan CAI | ETS IC | Fge DV | ER CP | Cyba | Raden. Exh | Mod Step | Trunk Drawer | Perf LED Wheel | Illum Dr Sills | IS Shifter | Parrot | Philps D1S | 6000k fog | MTECH RR | CSL Trunk | Aero | Roof Spoiler | PSS on BBS RS-GT 19s
Appreciate 1
      03-07-2018, 05:15 PM   #16
blau iii
Lieutenant
128
Rep
451
Posts

Drives: 2008 335i schwartz on scwartz
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Pittsburgh

iTrader: (0)

I’m having the exact issue mentioned above. I currently have the gauges separated but I can’t tell what the security tab is. Is it those two little bumps that are a clearer color inside the little notches? Do I just tab them with the iron?
Appreciate 0
      03-07-2018, 06:06 PM   #17
blau iii
Lieutenant
128
Rep
451
Posts

Drives: 2008 335i schwartz on scwartz
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Pittsburgh

iTrader: (0)

Ok. So I figure out how to unglue the holds. Pictures attached if any one needs them.

When I plug the gauges in they do this weird thing where they rotate down and rest where they shouldn’t. Third picture. I’ve tried manipulation into place but they keeps swinging down.


https://postimg.org/gallery/3bzxcr9am/
Appreciate 0
      03-08-2018, 07:09 AM   #18
blau iii
Lieutenant
128
Rep
451
Posts

Drives: 2008 335i schwartz on scwartz
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Pittsburgh

iTrader: (0)

Alright, so my gauges are working, don't ask me how... I left the cover off, plugged them in and then had to adjust them after they did their spaz movement to the left. I ended up taking the neddle off the speedo, let it do it's thing a couple of time and then put the needle back in. Thankfully its working again but what a fvcking mess.
Appreciate 0
      04-10-2018, 10:38 AM   #19
Thumperx
Major
United_States
88
Rep
1,404
Posts

Drives: 335I coupe
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SE Michigan

iTrader: (77)

Quote:
Originally Posted by blau iii View Post
Alright, so my gauges are working, don't ask me how... I left the cover off, plugged them in and then had to adjust them after they did their spaz movement to the left. I ended up taking the neddle off the speedo, let it do it's thing a couple of time and then put the needle back in. Thankfully its working again but what a fvcking mess.
Sorry Blau for being MIA. Yes, it's a mess and I'm glad that you were able to figure it out with a positive outcome.

For this project, my only regret that I had not taken pictures of this process, which would have made this task easier for all.
__________________
Name: Blanca | 07 E92 | AW-Blk | ZSP | Alcon BBK | M3 Bits | VM RR Links | Koni | UUC Sways | V5 | Dinan CAI | ETS IC | Fge DV | ER CP | Cyba | Raden. Exh | Mod Step | Trunk Drawer | Perf LED Wheel | Illum Dr Sills | IS Shifter | Parrot | Philps D1S | 6000k fog | MTECH RR | CSL Trunk | Aero | Roof Spoiler | PSS on BBS RS-GT 19s
Appreciate 0
      07-31-2020, 12:52 PM   #20
tripindustriz
Registered
0
Rep
1
Posts

Drives: e92
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Singapore

iTrader: (0)

I registered so that I could thank you guys for solving this needle issue.
I did the full speedo works
LED, Dial and needles.
and when I finally completed those, the RPM needle is dead.
Thanks to yall I got it up and running again.

Love from Singapore.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumperx View Post
*Update*

I've successfully fixed my M3 gauge cluster needles swap. Originally, when I pulled the old gauge needles out, I had disconnected the worm gear from the gauge needle's sun gear which is located in the white box servo housings.

If you have similar issues, you do NOT need to remove the white servos from the computer board. You do need a soldering iron to de-melt the security caps that secures the top and bottom halves of the servo units.

Once you de-melt these two locations, separating the halves can be easily done by a small flat head screw driver from the sides once the top half is separated and removed, you will be able see and access the interior. Reposition the worm gear back into its notch. You may need a tweezers or similar device to aid in this procedure.

Replace the top half back on to the servo box. Place the affected gauge back. "Feel" for engagement. If you feel engagement, then melt the caps back (to your best ability) on the servo boxes. This may take several times to get right, be patient.

Button the cluster back up, and place the cluster back into the Instrument panel. *NOTE* When I placed the plug back into the cluster, power is restored to the cluster unit. At this point, the speedo and tach gauge needles rotate out of position to the 9 o'clock from 0. If you have similar issue, you may need to reorient the needle/s so they will be repositioned at the "0" after power is restored to the cluster. Before plugging in, position the gauge needle/s forward the same amount of distance of the problem needle location. Restore power by placing the plug into the cluster's back, the gauge needles should rotate and return to the "0" position. Now you can wipe the sweat from your brow.

Don't ask me why this happens. It took me a SEVERAL attempts before I figured it out.

Thanks E90 and Yak for your help.
Appreciate 0
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:19 AM.




e90post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST