[JustDriveIt]

Yea, mine does it to with nice PSS tires, I think it's just the fact that only one tire is doing the pushing, combined with worn suspension. I'm sure you could tighten everything down and get it to be a lot more unnoticable.

[04gto]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Bushings is also another issue you should look at.

This and open diff the biggest factor. The more power I have added, the more wiggle and loss of traction. LSD coming soon:

[Dozhdbog]

Originally Posted by Gizm0

The e9x does not have an e-diff...

Here is the post I remember reading:
http://www.bimmerfile.com/2010/11/15...rol-explained/

So basically, the e-diff was added to the LCI 3 series starting in 2008. I believe the e91 LCI didn't come until 2009.


One more forum link about it:
"Confirmed: 2008+ models have e-diff LSD"
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=333152

[NoSlow5oh]

Originally Posted by Dozhdbog

Here is the post I remember reading:
http://www.bimmerfile.com/2010/11/15...rol-explained/

So basically, the e-diff was added to the LCI 3 series starting in 2008. I believe the e91 LCI didn't come until 2009.


One more forum link about it:
"Confirmed: 2008+ models have e-diff LSD"
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=333152

Everyone in that second thread is stating cars after 03/2008 have the eLSD. My car is 04/2008, and I don't think it has it, because it doesn't have traction in a straight line! I also have my pass rear tire worn about 50% in the last 6 months, while the driver rear still looks new. Both were the same 6 months ago, I drive like an old man getting into boost only in 3rd gear and above now due to traction issues with only an FMIC/e30 tune.

eLSD might work in some situations, but I've had many mustangs with LSD's and welded diffs. This will NEVER replace a true LSD for the street or track.

[Dozhdbog]

Originally Posted by NoSlow5oh

Everyone in that second thread is stating cars after 03/2008 have the eLSD. My car is 04/2008, and I don't think it has it, because it doesn't have traction in a straight line! I also have my pass rear tire worn about 50% in the last 6 months, while the driver rear still looks new. Both were the same 6 months ago, I drive like an old man getting into boost only in 3rd gear and above now due to traction issues with only an FMIC/e30 tune.

eLSD might work in some situations, but I've had many mustangs with LSD's and welded diffs. This will NEVER replace a true LSD for the street or track.

Mine seems to work under all sorts of conditions. Maybe there's a difference in the e-diff for your year and mine (2011). And my rear tires wear evenly despite lots of aggressive starts.

[XM_Rocks]

^

OP's car is a 2007 thus he does not have e-LSD.

Apology accepted.

[Dozhdbog]

Originally Posted by NoSlow5oh

Everyone in that second thread is stating cars after 03/2008 have the eLSD. My car is 04/2008, and I don't think it has it, because it doesn't have traction in a straight line! I also have my pass rear tire worn about 50% in the last 6 months, while the driver rear still looks new. Both were the same 6 months ago, I drive like an old man getting into boost only in 3rd gear and above now due to traction issues with only an FMIC/e30 tune.

eLSD might work in some situations, but I've had many mustangs with LSD's and welded diffs. This will NEVER replace a true LSD for the street or track.

I can't agree enough that a welded diff is very different from an LSD or E-LSD.

As for how the E-Diff operates vs a mechanical one, the fellow in the first link I posted did all sorts of comprehensive tests and he concluded this:

Do I still need a mechanical LSD then?

Maybe. This is a tough question to answer and a personal one at that.

The electronically assisted differential works rather well actually. It puts power down to both wheels, allows drifting and generally provides a positive driving feedback and control.

However, the electronic system has it's limits. Once traction loss is too great, the system can be overwhelmed, causing a more sudden loss in traction than what a mechanical differential would do. In other words, you might spin more suddenly than with a mechanical diff. Also, the electronic control does not provide the same feedback to the driver and the same confidence that a mechanical differential does. Thus controlling the car is more difficult than it would be with a mechanical diff.

Ultimately, there is no huge difference in traction availability between the mechanical and electronic differentials. The biggest difference is in the way the car "feels". This is mostly evident exiting corners under heavy throttle. This is where the mechanical differential shines.

Because the differential system uses your brakes to aid traction, excessive heat and wear may be generated on your rear brakes during track driving. A mechanical LSD can help reduce this.

Do I need a mechanical LSD for....

... daily driving? No.

... "spirited" canyon driving? No. If you're regularly overwhelming the electronic differential on public roads, please start autocrossing or track driving your car instead.

... drag racing? Maybe. The electronic differential is very good providing straight line traction. A mechanical LSD is likely not going to make a big difference here. On the highest levels of the sport, maybe an LSD would make a difference. At that point you may be better off with a locking one instead though.

... track/autocross? Maybe. BMW's differential braking system works rather well even for autocrossing or track driving. Don't be afraid to track/autocross your car in stock trim. A mechanical differential will make a big difference in controllability and confidence here so there is a definite benefit for track junkies and autocrossers.

... drifting events? Most likely. More control = better drifts.

[HCGxKaLiBeR]

My E93 did the same in the video. Skipped to 1:30
Sliding to the left till the traction kicked in.

[CH14SE_E]

Originally Posted by Bamaben

They're good on tread. I thought it might be actually losing traction and maybe it is but I don't think it should be, right?
Is it common to break traction just accelerating?
I don't hear any squealing.

Sounds like a good bit of power squatting to me... It'll happen under hard acceleration in low gears more freely and most roads have a camber to drain water away, which your car's arse end will follow when it breaks traction.

Sounds ace to me. I don't have that problem in a 318d. Even with the remap

[NoSlow5oh]

Originally Posted by Dozhdbog

I can't agree enough that a welded diff is very different from an LSD or E-LSD.

As for how the E-Diff operates vs a mechanical one, the fellow in the first link I posted did all sorts of comprehensive tests and he concluded this:

I think what he states may be true for a completely stock car at stock power levels. With only an FMIC and some e85, I'm already at 470rwtq, and this completely overpowers the suspension/tires. The eLSD must be overwhelmed as stated, and in my case I end up with less consistency and control.

[Dozhdbog]

Originally Posted by NoSlow5oh

I think what he states may be true for a completely stock car at stock power levels. With only an FMIC and some e85, I'm already at 470rwtq, and this completely overpowers the suspension/tires. The eLSD must be overwhelmed as stated, and in my case I end up with less consistency and control.

..."some"? Or 50%? I assume you also have a JB4 or some such.

Also, no upgraded down pipe and charge pipe?

[924er]

I started getting this after being FBO and running e85. I made a thread about it but I guess it's due to having all that power, RWD and no LSD. Sometimes I can feel the back wiggle on 3rd.

[924er]

Originally Posted by NoSlow5oh

I think what he states may be true for a completely stock car at stock power levels. With only an FMIC and some e85, I'm already at 470rwtq, and this completely overpowers the suspension/tires. The eLSD must be overwhelmed as stated, and in my case I end up with less consistency and control.

Yeah I'm calling BS on that. Dyno sheet or it didn't happen.

[NoSlow5oh]

Originally Posted by 924er

Yeah I'm calling BS on that. Dyno sheet or it didn't happen.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...t=spx+mhd+dyno

I created a thread with the dyno sheet and logs. Only things on the car that did not come from the BMW factory are FMIC, 30% e85, and flash tune. The numbers are normal for these mods/tune.

[Bamaben]

Originally Posted by Gizmo 335i

Had mine at an Indy for the exact same thing. Thought it was the bushings. The owner, who also drives competitively, took it out and said it was losing traction. All suspension, bushings etc. were not the culprit. The culprit was 350 hp to the wheels with only 255s for meat.

Haha! Well, mines all stock so even with 280 or so to wheels it's still breaking traction on 255's

[Bamaben]

Originally Posted by BadBoy_Gent

Sounds like a good bit of power squatting to me... It'll happen under hard acceleration in low gears more freely and most roads have a camber to drain water away, which your car's arse end will follow when it breaks traction.

Sounds ace to me. I don't have that problem in a 318d. Even with the remap

Yeah I'm thinking just power squatting and turbo lag then kick in is just too much power for the rear wheels to handle. I checked that my wheel bearings are good and lugs are tight.

[Dozhdbog]

Originally Posted by NoSlow5oh

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...t=spx+mhd+dyno

I created a thread with the dyno sheet and logs. Only things on the car that did not come from the BMW factory are FMIC, 30% e85, and flash tune. The numbers are normal for these mods/tune.

What is your HP at? And how has your charge pipe not exploded yet?

[Dozhdbog]

My charge pipe has split twice now, and all I have is the PPK which is a bump of 20hp and 45 torque or so.

Granted, I do strongly suspect BMW is very conservative with their power numbers, but there is no way I am hitting 400+ on either HP or torque.

[NoSlow5oh]

Originally Posted by Dozhdbog

What is your HP at? And how has your charge pipe not exploded yet?

Check the thread for numbers of the e85 tune, MHD Stage 1+FMIC 93 tune, and a base stock tune.

I'm on borrowed time for the charge pipe it seems. My buddies completely stock 2011 335is blew the charge pipe not too long ago.

[Dozhdbog]

Originally Posted by NoSlow5oh

Check the thread for numbers of the e85 tune, MHD Stage 1+FMIC 93 tune, and a base stock tune.

I'm on borrowed time for the charge pipe it seems. My buddies completely stock 2011 335is blew the charge pipe not too long ago.

I got the stage 2 PPK, which includes additional duct work, stronger fan, and a secondary oil cooler (they also added the water cooler, which didn't come with my base 335i).

I would recommend upping your car's cooling if you're going to be using all that hp/tq a lot.

[only1harry]

What about the guide arms? It's been mentioned a few times that if you loose traction in the rear or the car slides to one side, it's most likely the guide arms (or its bushings).

Harry

[Cory S]

If the rear is swaying left to right, your bushings are shot. Has NOTHING to do with your tires or differential.