[vrmoreno3]

The schematic shows 3.5x2.0 and I have some left over 3.5x1.8. Is the .2 difference a big deal?

[dapz325]

Any 3.5mm vaccum hose should work fine.

[vrmoreno3]

My concern is the difference in the internal diameter of what I have is it’s smaller than what the BMW schematic shows for this application.

[dapz325]

Its fine , if anything it would react faster. It you dont trust me just pick up a few inches in a auto store for $2

[stopper]

Originally Posted by vrmoreno3

My concern is the difference in the internal diameter of what I have is it’s smaller than what the BMW schematic shows for this application.

I'm pretty sure the "3.5" you're talking about is the inner diameter of the tube in mm. The number after (1.8 or 2.0) is the wall thickness of the hose in mm, so the only thing you would potentially be compromising is the integrity of the hose under vacuum (wall collapse or kinking, however unlikely) by using thinner-walled hoses.

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by stopper

I'm pretty sure the "3.5" you're talking about is the inner diameter of the tube in mm. The number after (1.8 or 2.0) is the wall thickness of the hose in mm, so the only thing you would potentially be compromising is the integrity of the hose under vacuum (wall collapse or kinking, however unlikely) by using thinner-walled hoses.

1+ 100% agree here.

also my 2 cents.
replaced my Lines with 3.5mm (Inner Diameter) Rubber tubes from local autostore. (Lordco) they said it is used for turbo cars and Windshield washer lines also....LOL
you will need 13 feet but ordered 15 feet.

Now those Rubber Hoses worked, my Boost Code disappeared but rattle was still there when coming to a actuator rod....

so, I decided to replace all lines with COOL RED color and Black color Silicone Vacuum lines.
ok....rattle was significantly reduced but still there and not as loud.
so use good stuff. PS: I replaced them on both sides of the engine....meaning all Lines....right to the Turbo actuators.
Front Turbo is a PITA.... but I figures out a Ingenious way to get it OFF and on.

This Link has the Best Prices I found and very good Product:
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ld-by-the-Foot

DO NOT Replace the Plastic Lines on top of Engine. else you may get a burning spell in the Cabin.

Front Turbo tips:
1- to remove old lines, I used a Safety blade to cut them.....then twist and pull off...(this is for all connectors and T joints)
2) Front Turbo, un-Mount Vacuum canisters and Coolant Reservoir.
3) LEFT HAND - Now you can ONLY get 1 Hand in there, and can only get 2 fingers on the line....so...
4) Get an EXACTO knife that is fully functional and NOT too Think.
dollar store stuff will work.
5) RIGHT HAND - Slide Exacto knife from front of Engine and then extract the Blade so it touches the vacuum line.
6) with Left and push on back of blade to cut the OEM Line. (don't worry about damaging actuator.....it's the only vacuum connector that is metal.)


Now to get the Line back on.....its a PITA cause the Vacuum line does not keep a Bended shape and you can only do so much with 2 fingers

so....my way... go to homedepot wiring department and take a 1 inch length vacuum line with you.
ask for a SOLID STRAND wiring. (50 cent per METER)
now, strip the insulation off the wire to see it easily fits into the Vacuum line.
if so....Buy it. 1 meter will do. (coat Hanger is tooo Thick. and tooo Rigid)

1) Cut the exact length of vacuum line you need for front turbo. (you wont be able to measure it later)
2) from the Front of the Engine, get your New Sold strand wire into the Front actuator vacuum connector.
3) Slide your vacuum line onto the SOLID Strand wire.....that is your Fool proof guide and all you need to do is push it on the vacuum connector. when it feels line it is in all the way......just pull the solid strand out.

I think I will post this in the DIY section.

good luck.

[vrmoreno3]

Nice write up....thanks