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      01-21-2017, 05:17 PM   #1
defjam90
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Buzzken - BMW 335 DPF Delete Downpipe

Hi,


I have searched and searched for days and it has just made my decision making worse, also i really dont know enough about exhaust systems.

I want to get a deeper more aggressive exhaust for my car...with no drone.

Planning to perform the DPF delete & a stage 2 /2.5 JR tuning on my BMW 335D. I am planning to use the Buzzken DPF delete kit gut it out & weld back the SCR so that there is no issue with SCR clogging up.Once this is performed this is performed it will be attached to the existing standard Exhaust .

This downpipe is built to last with 409 grade stainless steel and a high quality flex pipe, it will also retain the 02 sensors and EGT sensors as the proper bungs have been provided.

Any issues with this approach as opposed to New Full Exhaust (Downpipe + SCR cat delete /Catback).

Any recommendations/ suggestions will be greatly appreciate .

What is the difference between buying an exhaust system and downpipes?
What is catless or catback?

Thank you .
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      01-21-2017, 05:30 PM   #2
Persian Whisperjet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defjam90 View Post
Hi,

Planning to perform the DPF delete & a stage 2 /2.5 JR tuning on my BMW 335D. I am planning to use the Buzzken DPF delete kit gut it out & weld back the SCR so that there is no issue with SCR clogging up.Once this is performed this is performed it will be attached to the existing standard Exhaust .

This downpipe is built to last with 409 grade stainless steel and a high quality flex pipe, it will also retain the 02 sensors and EGT sensors as the proper bungs have been provided.

Thank you .
Your setup is basically what I have (but I used Jess's downpipe) and it sounds great!
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      01-21-2017, 05:34 PM   #3
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The main reason going from stock exhaust to something else is weight reduction and sound. A new full exhaust will sound nice, but be more expensive than just gutting the SCR and keeping stock exhaust.

You can also buy iaknown's downpipe or full exhaust. Lots of people here have it and love it. There's also Profi. Plenty of options. I'm still fully stock, but others here have recommended both.

A downpipe will only delete the DPF. A full exhaust(turbo-back) will delete the DPF and SCR.

Catback and catless are totally different. Cat-back refers to the length of the exhaust. In our case, cat-back is from the DPF or downpipe back. Catless means there is no catalytic converter, which is the DOC, which is attached to our DPF. Catalytic converters are there to reduce the foul smell.
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      01-21-2017, 05:35 PM   #4
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I have downpipe , SCR gut and muffler delete, I get compliments all the time and people say it sounds like a cummins lol. It's either you delete ur muffler or buy a 1k exhaust system which in my opinion is useless. You will get drone regardless but it isn't that bad. I have a Audi Q7 4.2 muffler deleted and I get more drone in that opposed to a full straight pipe
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      01-21-2017, 06:14 PM   #5
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I would not advise the 409 SS downpipe. Either 304 SS or 316L SS even better. 300 series SS won't turn rusty looking. 400 series is what is known as semi ferric and is hardenable but also will develop surface rust. It won't rust through but the 304 or 316 will stay better looking. Iaknown is switching from another material to 304. Bohl diesel pipes were also 304.

I ran straight open exhaust with a custom stainless exhaust. As another poster stated, it sounds like a baby Cummins but way different than Cummins at high RPM. It got too loud for me so I removed downpipe and switched to gutted DPF. A little more mellow when driving slowly but still plenty growl. There will come a day that I go back to DP but I also have way less stink too. A cat close to the turbo is more effective at scrubbing as gases are hotter for firing off the cat. Only thing is the DPF is a heavy pig and no fun to reinstall. It's a lighter after gutting but still quite heavy compared to the tubular DP.

Last edited by BB_cuda; 01-21-2017 at 06:22 PM..
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      01-21-2017, 06:28 PM   #6
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I have the PROFI exhaust for over a year, no rust. Love that it was $1100 shipped with down pipe. Great european exhaust, welds, bends and mufflers sounds mean.
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      01-21-2017, 07:31 PM   #7
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I've put over 20K miles on a complete alphabet delete with full exhaust and a JR tune. I'm in Lagrange if you want to come check it out.
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      01-21-2017, 08:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atwal187 View Post
I have downpipe , SCR gut and muffler delete, I get compliments all the time and people say it sounds like a cummins lol. It's either you delete ur muffler or buy a 1k exhaust system which in my opinion is useless. You will get drone regardless but it isn't that bad. I have a Audi Q7 4.2 muffler deleted and I get more drone in that opposed to a full straight pipe
Just curious, but why delete the mufflers from the stock exhaust? Did you want it to be even louder?
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      01-21-2017, 08:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torqu3 View Post
Just curious, but why delete the mufflers from the stock exhaust? Did you want it to be even louder?
Dpf delete and scr gut didn't produce any noise at all, maybe increased my whistle by about 20% but it was the best decision I made to gut it, relaxed driving and you can barely hear the exhaust but when you step on it , it roars
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      01-21-2017, 09:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atwal187 View Post
I have downpipe , SCR gut and muffler delete, I get compliments all the time and people say it sounds like a cummins lol. It's either you delete ur muffler or buy a 1k exhaust system which in my opinion is useless. You will get drone regardless but it isn't that bad. I have a Audi Q7 4.2 muffler deleted and I get more drone in that opposed to a full straight pipe
Even if you take away mufflers, the stupid OEM exhaust has a couple spots that are needlessly smashed down and poorly flowing spots( right after split).
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      01-21-2017, 09:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caraudio1 View Post
I've put over 20K miles on a complete alphabet delete with full exhaust and a JR tune. I'm in Lagrange if you want to come check it out.
Hadn't heard from you in awhile. Thanks for stopping in and don't be a stranger.
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      01-21-2017, 09:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
Even if you take away mufflers, the stupid OEM exhaust has a couple spots that are needlessly smashed down and poorly flowing spots( right after split).
Yea it isn't the best set up, all the brand name exhaust systems for our D's are amazing but 1k exhaust plus USD To CAD conversion is an overkill for a 20 yr old
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      01-21-2017, 10:04 PM   #13
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I have deleted all OEM exhaust components.

Turbo back with Iaknown's newest exhaust.

Sound clip below - I had just pulled into the driveway after a 30 minute drive home.

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      01-22-2017, 03:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
It got too loud for me so I removed downpipe and switched to gutted DPF. A little more mellow when driving slowly but still plenty growl.
Yep, my choice was similar. Gutted DPF/CAT to be specific. A little more volume after the turbo takes some rasp out, but it will growl. And the price is right.

Last edited by DWR; 01-22-2017 at 03:27 AM..
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      01-22-2017, 08:22 AM   #15
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Great information & have a better understanding now .
Than you every body
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      01-22-2017, 08:24 AM   #16
defjam90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caraudio1 View Post
I've put over 20K miles on a complete alphabet delete with full exhaust and a JR tune. I'm in Lagrange if you want to come check it out.
Thank you will keep you posted
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      01-22-2017, 09:05 AM   #17
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Our cars with a freer flowing exhaust path sound similar to the clip from ASBSECU E93.

I have the Bohl Diesel downpipe with gutted SCR, but I left the mufflers intact. I also have the BPC tune. Would have gone the route that ASBSECU E93 if that had been available at the time.

FWIW, I get compliments frequently on how my car sounds.
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      01-22-2017, 07:54 PM   #18
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I have the P&L turbo back, no drone and is a true 3in from the turbo back.
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      01-22-2017, 07:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
I would not advise the 409 SS downpipe. Either 304 SS or 316L SS even better. 300 series SS won't turn rusty looking. 400 series is what is known as semi ferric and is hardenable but also will develop surface rust. It won't rust through but the 304 or 316 will stay better looking. Iaknown is switching from another material to 304. Bohl diesel pipes were also 304.

.
The 304 won't turn rusty looking, it will just discolour like crazy with the heat cycles. Pick your poison, either option is fine. The important thing here is that they stand up to the elements, which I've seen first hand (I had Ken do a 409SS dp for my TDI, easily over 200,000 miles of snow and salt, zero issues)..
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      01-22-2017, 08:33 PM   #20
defjam90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnxguy View Post
The 304 won't turn rusty looking, it will just discolour like crazy with the heat cycles. Pick your poison, either option is fine. The important thing here is that they stand up to the elements, which I've seen first hand (I had Ken do a 409SS dp for my TDI, easily over 200,000 miles of snow and salt, zero issues)..

Very encouraging to go the Ken 409SS dp option .
If it can handle the snow & salt then it should be no issues driving in south east.
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      01-22-2017, 08:38 PM   #21
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Not trying to offend but if cost options are similar, I would buy the 304L over the 409, hands down. L option is important to minimize chromium carbides in weld effected zone. Pulling chromium out of the SS causes more corosion in the weld. This is called sensitization. 316L is considered the workhorse of the chemical processing industry. Back half of my exhaust is 316L mandrel bent by local shop and welded with 322 wire. They can't TIG due to chemicals used in the mandrel bending. They say they can't clean it enough for the TIG to run right.
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      01-23-2017, 07:04 AM   #22
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Not sure if any body is making 304L commercially.The options available are 304 & 409 SS unless its custom made.
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