[Infidel]

Joe, I dont know where you are in Taxachusetts but Bavarian Autosport has the siemens/vdo sensor for $340 with free shipping or pickup in Portsmouth, NH. They probably also have a kit for the VCG... I definitely recommend them they have been a lifesaver for me.

[Infidel]

Just bought all the parts for a grand total of $335. Not bad considering the dealership wanted $475 for just the sensor. I bought the VCG, the aluminum bolts, eccentric shaft gasket, eccentric shaft sensor, and the Vanos gasket.


I have all the tools except a decent torque wrench which Im working on getting. Should be digging into this in the next week or so, Ill let you know how it goes.

[joekitch]

Originally Posted by Infidel

Just bought all the parts for a grand total of $335. Not bad considering the dealership wanted $475 for just the sensor. I bought the VCG, the aluminum bolts, eccentric shaft gasket, eccentric shaft sensor, and the Vanos gasket.


I have all the tools except a decent torque wrench which Im working on getting. Should be digging into this in the next week or so, Ill let you know how it goes.

torque wrench is VERY IMPORTANT.
also be advised, some parts of the job are going to be a huge pain. off the top of my head i remember the valvecover breather hose (use a screwdriver to press in one side of the two squeeze clip things), getting the valve cover off (removing it from all the clutter will be a pain, make sure to get it past the windshield wiper surround metal thing attached to the firewall before trying to pull it out more).....and then getting it back on.
AND DO NOT OVER LOOSEN THE ECCENTRIC VALVE SENSOR SCREWS, THEY CAN FALL OUT INTO THE ENGINE. just loosen them a bit and see if you can slide the sensor out, only loosen them as much as you need to and no more.

i'd say set aside 12 hours and make sure to get all of these tools that i didnt think to get at first
-C-clip pliers for the glow plug surrounds, make sure they grip inwards (pulling together instead of spreading apart)
-a very very deep socket 10mm socket for the grounding wires. at least 1" clearance
-mechanic's gloves. they help.
-multiple sizes of socket extensions and a universal joint thingy for getting bolts in funky places (especially the back of the valve cover)
-torque wrench, you dont want to do this job again so make sure you tightened the damn valve cover bolts enough!
-some krazy glue, the breather valves on the underside of the valve cover like to pop out when you're removing it, those need to be glued back in LIBERALLY

also this guide was my primary resource.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm

[saeng]

Hey guys..

I just did Eccentric Shaft Sensor Replacement but now I'm getting a rough idle and the car will die right after.pulled these codes from inpa.. Any suggestions what I should do after?

[Infidel]

Well after reading Joe's and your post Im sufficiently re-terrified about this, so thanks for that.

Saeng, I by no means am knowledgeable about this stuff but I did do a little internet searching (as you likely have) and found:

Code 1 could be a vacuum leak from a post I read online, but I really don't know.

Code 2 according to a MINI forum can be 3 possible causes. The code is triggered when there is an open or short in the thermostat heater control.
Possible causes:
- Failed Engine Cooling Thermostat
- Engine Cooling Thermostat harness is open or shorted
- Engine Cooling Thermostat circuit poor electrical connection

Code 3, I am pretty confident is because when you removed the Valvetronic motor you must have somehow moved it or disturbed its position during the removal or reinstall. You need to relearn the limits for the valvetronic motor. I know you can do this with INPA, but you will have to search to figure out how exactly. I would do this before anything else.

Your symptoms of rough idle followed by the car dying are the exact symptoms Im getting from my bad eccentric shaft (so I believe). I really hope its not my valvetronic motor, let me know how it goes.

[Infidel]

Originally Posted by joekitch

torque wrench is VERY IMPORTANT.
also be advised, some parts of the job are going to be a huge pain. off the top of my head i remember the valvecover breather hose (use a screwdriver to press in one side of the two squeeze clip things), getting the valve cover off (removing it from all the clutter will be a pain, make sure to get it past the windshield wiper surround metal thing attached to the firewall before trying to pull it out more).....and then getting it back on.
AND DO NOT OVER LOOSEN THE ECCENTRIC VALVE SENSOR SCREWS, THEY CAN FALL OUT INTO THE ENGINE. just loosen them a bit and see if you can slide the sensor out, only loosen them as much as you need to and no more.

i'd say set aside 12 hours and make sure to get all of these tools that i didnt think to get at first
-C-clip pliers for the glow plug surrounds, make sure they grip inwards (pulling together instead of spreading apart)
-a very very deep socket 10mm socket for the grounding wires. at least 1" clearance
-mechanic's gloves. they help.
-multiple sizes of socket extensions and a universal joint thingy for getting bolts in funky places (especially the back of the valve cover)
-torque wrench, you dont want to do this job again so make sure you tightened the damn valve cover bolts enough!
-some krazy glue, the breather valves on the underside of the valve cover like to pop out when you're removing it, those need to be glued back in LIBERALLY

also this guide was my primary resource.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm

Thanks for the info, I need all I can get . Im very slow and deliberate so I anticipate this taking me 2 days. How long did it take you? Did you also have the rough idle followed by dying at start up and did the repair fix your issue?

Thanks for the link that looks invaluable, Ill have to pick up some snap ring pliers and maybe another 10mm socket as Im not sure if mine is deep enough.

This whole business about using crazy glue has me a bit concerned however. Is this something that is avoidable or is it just the way it has to be, I haven't heard it mentioned before so Im a little confused about that. Also did you use sealant or rtv on your VCG or just put it in as it was.

Sorry for all the questions I just want to know as much about it as I can before I start. Thanks again for all your info and tips.

[joekitch]

Originally Posted by Infidel

Thanks for the info, I need all I can get . Im very slow and deliberate so I anticipate this taking me 2 days. How long did it take you?

about 4 days actually, but it was small stuff at first. i made sure to keep the car covered the entire time i wasnt under the hood (since i have no room in the garage and had to work outside)

Originally Posted by Infidel

Did you also have the rough idle followed by dying at start up and did the repair fix your issue?

yes. it actually would have trouble starting at all, like the starter motor would just chug and it didnt start. if it did start it would rev all over the place for a few seconds before stalling out.
eventually (after a few mornings of this) it didnt start at all

Originally Posted by Infidel

This whole business about using crazy glue has me a bit concerned however. Is this something that is avoidable or is it just the way it has to be, I haven't heard it mentioned before so Im a little confused about that.

the pelican parts guide mentions it, its just a little plastic cap that can fall off from inside the valve cover itself, you glue it back on with krazy glue, easy.

Originally Posted by Infidel

Also did you use sealant or rtv on your VCG or just put it in as it was.

i didnt bother, i just cleaned the metal surface the gasket was on and cleaned the valve cover a good bit.
be advised that fitting the gasket onto the valve cover before re-installation is sort of annoying as well, you need to make sure its oriented right.

Originally Posted by Infidel

Sorry for all the questions I just want to know as much about it as I can before I start. Thanks again for all your info and tips.

its not that bad, just annoying and tedious.
i could have avoided a lot of pain if i didnt drop that screw in the engine, and if i knew the secret to getting the valve cover off and back on (which is to force the top rear of the valve cover past the piece of metal coming out from the firewall, you'll know what it is when you get to it, it'll make it seem like the cover is impossible to get off at first)

also when you're disconnecting the injector plug rail, use a lot of force to yank it off. thats another sucky part that took me half an hour to do.

the pelican guide is your best resource really, and look up some videos/pictorials of a valve cover gasket job