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Door Locks - Anyone had / have this problem?
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11-21-2010, 07:15 PM | #89 |
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I have the issue with comfort access where the locks will lock fine when getting out of the car by touching the handle.
But, when putting a hand on the handle to open, you can hear the locks trying to click, but nothing happens, it won't unlock. Press the unlock on the Fob, and it unlocks.
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12-13-2010, 09:05 AM | #91 |
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just happened to me.
left home for work in the morning, was working fine. stopped for coffee, and when i went back to the car, couldn't unlock the doors with the key fob. had to use the hideaway key to manually unlock door and trunk. internal central lock was not working as well. setting up appt with dealership. |
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12-19-2010, 09:39 PM | #92 |
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I have the same issue. Just bought the car and discovered it after I signed the papers. I had them add it to the work promised sheet for them to fix. I'll be checking the fuse to see if that helps. Great info!!
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12-19-2010, 09:46 PM | #93 | |
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The fact that we all have identical symptoms is a pretty strong indicator that we're not making up what we say. But it's interesting how BMW wins in their denial of fixing things under warranty. Probably, because there is no fix, it's a design flaw (I got one actuator replaced which made things worse). |
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12-19-2010, 09:48 PM | #94 |
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Just had the same issue with my '07 Touring, dealer replaced the actuators and it works fine now. It didn't seem to surprise them that the problem arose, they had seen it before.
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12-20-2010, 12:24 PM | #95 |
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My situation is a bit odd. Passenger door unlock stopped working this summer. You could hear the actuator working, but just didn't have enough "umph" to open lock. The other doors all locked/unlocked just fine. Car has 20 AMP fuse in it. So, I figure some time in future I will have to replace the actuator.
Now, fast forward to this winter. I live where in the winter it is cold, snowy, etc. Now, in this cold, snowy enviroment (average temp at or near freezing), the doors lock and unlock, ALL of them, work just fine. The passenger door unlocks like it's supposed to. Kind of odd, but in summer passenger door won't unlock, but in winter it does. Weird. |
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12-20-2010, 02:36 PM | #97 |
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12-21-2010, 12:09 AM | #98 |
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Door lock problem just happen to me also
This same problem just happend to me, doors stopped unlocking using the remote....
I replaced the fuse and didn't fix the problem.... then I disconnected the battery and it started to work with the exception of the driver's door... this one would unlock but would not lock using the remote... then I remembered that when I disconnected the battery the driver's door was open... so I closed it and unlocked all the doors then disconected the battery for about 60 seconds and re-connected.... and now all is working fine... hope this will help some of you having this strange problem. remeber these cars have computers and many times they need a re-boot. they almost need a CTRL + ALT + DEL keys..... |
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03-22-2011, 09:34 AM | #99 |
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Door Actuators Need to Be Replaced and BMW Won't Cover The Repair!
About three days ago the door locks stopped working... Creating a very dangerous situation. I tried changing the fuses myself with no succes. Took it to BMW and they tried replacing the fuses as well and have told me that the door actuators need to be replaced.
Due to the fact that my warrantee expired a few weeks ago, BMW refuses to cover the cost. The car is only 4 years old with 25k miles... I would think my door locks could last that amount of time before needing to be replaced!!! What's most infuriating is that my the BMW service tech tells me this happens OFTEN to other 3 series. This should clearly be a recall item. I have been a BMW owner for years and planned to replace my Range Rover with a new x5, but I am now reconsidering due to BMW's lack of assistance with this significant issue. |
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03-22-2011, 09:39 AM | #100 |
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I had this happen 2 weeks ago in freezing weather and had to get my kid into the back seat Dukes of Hazard style through the window!
I changed the 15 amp fuse (#54 or 57 as I recall) and that didn't seem to work - fuse blew first time I tried using the locks. Take the car in for service because it's still under warranty and their fix? They upped the 15 amp fuse to a 25 amp fuse and "tested" the system. Unbelievable that they would charge people for this if not on warranty in my opinion but it was the final straw and my car is BMW's again in 8 days. New one is on the way complete with warranty and hopefully no electrical gremlins (door looks wasn't my first electrical issue). |
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04-24-2011, 02:26 PM | #101 |
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Edward Norton's formula from Fight Club comes to mind with this.
"A new car built by my company leaves somewhere traveling at 60 mph. The rear differential locks up. The car crashes and burns with everyone trapped inside. Now, should we initiate a recall? Take the number of vehicles in the field, A, multiply by the probable rate of failure, B, multiply by the average out-of-court settlement, C. A times B times C equals X. If X is less than the cost of a recall, we don't do one." I was thinking about this today when I had my 2 year old in the backseat. If this happened I wouldn't be able to get him out easily. I can't believe BMW would knowingly ignore a problem that causes the doors to be impossible to open. That's something I can't live with as an owner- sorry BMW I'm selling mine and never buying your brand again. (Also really BMW, the alarm system is an add-on option for a $35k car? A fucking Hyundai comes with this standard you cheap bastards.) |
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05-31-2011, 07:07 AM | #104 |
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Bringing this back....
This happened to me yesterday while we were at a cookout. The doors locked, then I heard a loud buzzing/clicking noise coming from the passenger side of the cars. Now the doors won't unlock. I check the fuses related to the locks and replaced fuse #57 which was blown and the central locking button will still not work and I still cannot open any of the doors except for the driver's side. What really sucked was trying to get our 7 month old and his car seat in the car and get him home and out of the car. We finally had to climb in the back through the driver's side and pass him through the dam window. I'm headed to the dealership this evening and will update here with the outcome. I'm sure this won't be cheap since my car is out of warranty. |
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06-04-2011, 11:24 PM | #105 |
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My doors locks also stopped working today with me & my children locked inside. I'll try to replace fuse tomorrow but in the meantime, I've filed a complaint with NTSA. After reading all these posts, this should definitely be a recall issue. Has anyone else filed and received a reply from NTSA?
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06-04-2011, 11:27 PM | #106 | |
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Quote:
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06-05-2011, 08:14 PM | #107 |
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Never made it to the dealer. My car found jesus in the morning and things are working fine with the locks now. Apparently changing out the fuse for #57 worked. Still not sure why it didn't work right away when I replaced the fuse. My only guess is that I didn't start the car. I just replaced the burnt out fuse and assumed it would be corrected.
I haven't had any issues since then and I now have a spare pack of 15 and 20 amp fuses in the trunk just in case. Good luck with your car, but I would check the fuses first. |
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06-05-2011, 10:24 PM | #108 |
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It's nice to know that I can anticipate the same door lock problems with my E90 that I had with my previous E46. I had the GM5 module repaired on the E46 and everything's GTG now.
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06-06-2011, 10:03 PM | #109 |
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add me to the list...
I am assuming no one has heard back from BMW NA since no one posted about their response... Does anyone know if the actuators are covered under CPO ? |
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06-13-2011, 11:26 AM | #110 |
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just quick update..
It happened again. This time, the fuses didn't blow and it was limited to the front passenger door not working now. I dropped it off at the dealer this morning, they tried to replace the fuse with a 20amp (even though I told them that fuses were fine) and they are now replacing both front actuators. The service advisor said the damage is going to be $590 to replace both. |
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