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CDV help
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01-31-2009, 12:10 PM | #1 |
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CDV help
I recently purchased a modified CDV from **********s and when I got it in the mail I was super excited. Then when I read the directions everything seemedc easy enough until I got to step number 5. It says to "use a 7mm box key wrench and a friend to bleed the clutch valve. Be sure to put the clutch a few times to get the air out of the system and into the bleed valve in between bleed sessions. 2-3 times should be enough." I'm familiar with cars and basic maintenance but I am by no way ready to jump onto a race team in the pits. Can anyone tell me or show my how tho bleed a clutch valve? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also it is the Riss Racing CDV.
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01-31-2009, 06:18 PM | #2 |
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Nothin' not even a peep... Thanx guys!
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02-01-2009, 10:00 AM | #3 |
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Hey, This walk though looks long and complicated, but it's actually pretty easy.
1. Clip the new CDV in. 2. You'll notice a little rubber stump at the end of the CDV assembly. 3. Remove the rubber cap from the stump. Revealing the bleed valve. 4. Have a friend get in the car. 5. Loosen the bleed valve almost all the way. Attach a piece of small tubing to the bleed valve and put the other end into a clean empty bottle (just so you can re-use the brake fluid that comes out. 6. Have your friend push and hold the clutch to the floor. You should hear air bubbles coming out of the line as the fluid flows from the valve into the bottle. 7. Tighten the bleed valve closed. (tightening and loosening the valve may take quite a few turns) 8. Tell your friend to let the clutch up. 9. Repeat steps 5,6,7 & 8. The key here is to get all the bubbles out. You should cease to hear them coming out with the fluid once they're gone. 10. With the bleed valve closed and two repetitions of this process, you'll most likely need to add brake fluid to the reservoir. It's under the hood, near the windshield on the driver's side of the car. Underneath a black plastic cover. 11. Top off the brake fluid reservoir, but DO NOT OVERFILL. I think BMW reccommends DOT 4 fluid. Check the cap on the reservoir or the owners manual to be sure. 12. After filling the brake fluid, have your friend pump the clutch about 10 times. It should go from being very spongy to somewhat hard. (It may take more than 10 pumps) 13. If the clutch pedal doesn't get hard, repeat steps 5-12. 14. Once you get a nice tight clutch, make sure the bleed valve is tight, and replace the rubber cap. 15. Double check your brake fluid, and refill if necessary. You can re-use the fluid that came out during bleeding. 16. Button everything up. Last edited by Omni; 02-08-2009 at 07:44 AM.. |
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02-01-2009, 10:05 AM | #4 |
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i took it to an auto shop and had them do the install and helped them bleed the clutch. i'd recommend the same if your not too mechanically inclined
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02-01-2009, 10:26 AM | #5 |
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+1. I'm planning to do the same this week when my CDV arrives at the dealership (I'm going to push the restricter/constricter thingy out making my own modified CDV). Since I probably will make a mess, get fluid all over my garage, then have to get my car flatbedded to the nearest mechanic, I figure I'll save a couple of steps (and the embarrassment) and just go to the mechanic.
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02-02-2009, 10:51 AM | #7 |
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while we are on the subject, i was wondering about getting one of these but i have a tendancy to be a little rough on my clutch when driving hard. if i do this mod will it lengthen or lessen the life of my clutch if i drop it hard during shifts?
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02-02-2009, 11:20 AM | #8 |
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not that i know of, but im not entirely sure.
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02-02-2009, 11:32 AM | #9 |
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well maybe someone can, in detail, help explain the the effects of replacing it. i understand how the stock one works (meachanically) and how the modified one works (mechanically) but do not know how it effects the other trans components...
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02-02-2009, 01:59 PM | #10 |
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Thanks for everyone's input. I do plan on having a friend help who has done work on the clutch and transmission of his crawler but I just wanted some help so I could be of more help to him then a dipshit in the way.
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02-02-2009, 07:54 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
The effect on the clutch is that with the prolonged friction, the plates remain engaged, and therefore, wear the clutch a bit faster. Removing the CDV should result in prolonged clutch life. I removed mine a few months ago, and shifting immediately improved. |
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02-03-2009, 03:01 PM | #12 | |
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Thanx for the help, i was just making sure that by me dropping the clutch hard between gears would not cause any excessive issues, not saying that driving like that doesn't anyway |
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04-28-2009, 07:25 AM | #13 |
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clutch bleeding
I had a big problem bleeding my clutch as I got air into my master cylinder. here is an excellent video that fixed my problem.
I was expecially happy because I did not have to buy a motive pressure bleeder, pay $50 and wait 3-4 days to get it you can buy the oil can at any auto store and ask for vacume tubing they sell it by the foot for less than $1 per foot. The process took 5 minutes max If you have experience driving a manual car, I definitely recommend the cdv mod. If makes the car feel faster and it is how a clutch should feel. |
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04-28-2009, 08:19 AM | #14 |
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I'm curious. You said you were getting your CDV at the DEALER. I heard dealers will not install these, so how did you get one sent to your dealer? I don't you want the dealer to know you're putting that on, but I could be wrong. Please report how you like it when it's installed if you don't mind. Good luck.
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04-28-2009, 11:09 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
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04-28-2009, 11:50 AM | #16 |
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Cool, but...there's already a company that makes replacement CDV's and I hear they're great. I plan to get one of those, and have a non-dealer install it. Can't wait.
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04-28-2009, 02:37 PM | #17 |
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Aftermarket cdvs do the exact same thing as a modifed bmw cdv. I used the rise racing one but it's identical to the stock cdv I took out only without the restrictor.
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