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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Paint interior trim?
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05-10-2011, 08:44 PM | #45 | |
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Sorry for the late response.....I saw your PM. The process is fine. I usually only sand between layers if there is a defect in my spray pattern tough. However, it won't hurt to sand between layers. |
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05-10-2011, 08:55 PM | #46 |
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I did this in my previous car. I painted a lot of stuff so I was aware of all the procedures.
Hardest part is withstanding the smell of the paint in the car. I did it during hot summer, and OH MY GOD. I literally felt like throwing up every time I drove the car for good 2 weeks. After that, I just got used to it. It took a long time before the smell went off. I left windows open whereever possible for ventilation. Got few things jacked, but I rather deal with that than the smell. Like most people said, SANDING is the key. and make sure you work in a place with less dust and good air ventiliation. Otherwise, you will have trim pieces in grainy finish(little dots, dimples all over). Multiple light coats >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> heavy coat. Patience is key for perfection.
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06 AW E90 330i ZPP/ZSP/Step/Expired Warranty : Prior Design Front : ACS Rear : ACS Roof : BlackLines : Simota Intake : Carbon Fiber Interior Trim : : MTEC V3 : 24% Charcoal : V1 Hardwired : Solaris Invisibulbs/LED interior : |
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05-10-2011, 09:04 PM | #47 | |
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05-10-2011, 09:31 PM | #48 |
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Dunno why you would go down to 250 grit. 320dry/600wet should be enough.
basecoat shouldn't need sanding as stated above.
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06 AW E90 330i ZPP/ZSP/Step/Expired Warranty : Prior Design Front : ACS Rear : ACS Roof : BlackLines : Simota Intake : Carbon Fiber Interior Trim : : MTEC V3 : 24% Charcoal : V1 Hardwired : Solaris Invisibulbs/LED interior : |
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05-10-2011, 09:39 PM | #49 |
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well i wanted to get the procedure and then i was gonna ask this q again. which do i need for this project?
Grit Common Name Uses 40-60 Coarse Heavy sanding and stripping, roughing up the surface. 80-120 Medium Smoothing of the surface, removing smaller imperfections and marks. 150-180 Fine Final sanding pass before finishing the wood 220-240 Very Fine Sanding between coats of stain or sealer. 280-320 Extra Fine Removing dust spots or marks between finish coats 360-600 Super Fine Fine sanding of the finish to remove some luster or surface blemishes and scratches. |
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05-12-2011, 01:43 PM | #52 |
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fdriller and rollingstone where did u guys go? i want to get this project started and post pics on how it turns out to give an alternative to wrapping in carbon fiber. i just want to finalize the instructions as well as the parts needed before i go ahead and do this. thanks everyone for your help with this.
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05-15-2011, 10:01 PM | #56 |
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Sand - 250 grit
Clean Prime Sand - 250 grit (see above comment) Clean Prime Sand - 250 grit (see above comment) Paint Let Dry to can's spec Paint Let Dry to can's spec Paint (optional, only if you think you need it) Clear Coat Enjoy |
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05-16-2011, 11:22 AM | #57 |
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ok thank you. my final question before doing the project is how do i clean it after i sand it? can i wet it or just basically wipe it off? i dont want like saw dust to be under the paint.
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05-16-2011, 03:41 PM | #58 | |
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PS - post some pictures after you're done |
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05-16-2011, 03:52 PM | #59 |
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Yea everyone has it right. Make sure whatever you use to clean it, that the surface is dry before spraying the next coat.
You can use a hair dryer/heat gun to speed up the drying times btw. Just don't keep heat on one area for too long. Keep an even back and forth motion going. |
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05-16-2011, 04:07 PM | #60 |
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Go for it dude, we've told you how to do it. But please, for the millionth time...practice on something other than your trim first. I think it's fair to say you have no previous experience in high quality painting, so for your own sake...just practice on something else.
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05-16-2011, 05:57 PM | #61 |
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ok i lied i have one more quick question, which is, can i spray with the trim on the ground and holding the can facing down? because i dont know how i'd get the trim to be upright to paint it straight sorry if im not being clear
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05-16-2011, 08:20 PM | #62 |
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No, I know what you're saying, and the answer is both yes and no. Yes, you can lay the trim pieces flat , but you want them elevated so the paint does adhere to the ground and the piece, so when you pull it up, it leaves marks. Instead, place small cardboard boxes/anything really in the middle of the trim pieces to keep the edges from touching the ground. And when you spray, you want to have a bit of an angle. See the diagram.
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05-17-2011, 08:26 AM | #64 |
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If you leave the trim pieces with the edges touching the ground, the overspray will adhere to both the ground surface and the trim pieces. When you lift up, it will "pull" the paint from the trim piece, leaving an ugly mark on the trim. I wish I could explain it better.
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05-17-2011, 10:01 AM | #65 |
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I'm assuming your going to take the vents off...you can use the screws to mount it to a board or something. You can mount the board on the wall or prop it up. Use some kind of spacer to keep the trim off the board.
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05-17-2011, 10:14 AM | #66 |
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I have structurally sound but cosmetically damaged E90 non-iDrive burled walnut trim I was going to prep and paint to sell, but haven't had time to get around to it. If anyone is interested send me a PM. I'm not looking to get much for it
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