[tennis_pr0]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Short answer is: NO! What you're feeling is the force from instant traction off the line, that the AWD gives. Unless you put drag radials on the 335I. If you're looking for the same feel, you might want to try the 335XI. As for your question about boost, I feel the answer has to do with tuning. As long as it's tuned correctly The engine can handle 16-27lbs of boost. Most of us here like me are running 18-19lbs daily on our stage 2 tunes, without an issue. You can blow the engine running 15lbs of boost if the tuning isn't right, or your meth system fails, for instance.

Yeah I mean I am just running the cobb stage 1 +fmic 93 octane tune. No other mods besides that an am fmic. So I thought for a stage 1 tune and no other mods other than the fmic my boost numbers were too high.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by tennis_pr0

Yeah I mean I am just running the cobb stage 1 +fmic 93 octane tune. No other mods besides that an am fmic. So I thought for a stage 1 tune and no other mods other than the fmic my boost numbers were too high.

You replied to the wrong post bud.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by Jklad

my 2 cents - don't buy an older 335 unless your comfortable with doing your own repairs (if no warranty). Take a look at some of the 100k mile posts to get a sense of possible issues. Try to avoid buying a first year '07 - The MSD 80 DME is prone to frying (like mine did, doesn't mean all do, but why risk it) which cost $4k to repair, and seems to becoming a more common issue. Also, read up on the power steering pulley/belt shred issue. There are also other things you should expect to replace, like you oil filter housing gasket at around 70k, waterpump&Tstat by 80k, vanos solenoids at some point before that, and something miscellaneous that may likely happen. Not hard to replace yourself, but still a PIA, especially if your coming from a Honda with no mainenance. It's possible Evo's have their issues too, i wouldn't know.

Don't get me wrong, I love my 335i, but it's like having a bad gf - definately a love hate relationship. Ideally, i would recommend looking for a 2010, or a 2011 "is" model. Maybe even an '09. I would recommend its under warranty, with CPO, and get a tune you can easily remove for dealer service (e.g. I have a cobb i can simply uninstall).

You know this is a mixture of good/bad advice. I have an '07 335I, and nothing Major has failed yet, i.e; MSD 80 DME, Engine, Turbo or 6AT trans. I'm currently at 110K miles, and I have been tracking the tuned car since 38K miles. The other stuff that you say fails like the gaskets: oil filter, oil pan, 6AT trans gaskets, valve cover, thermostat, water pump, etc, will fail in 09-11 cars, and CPO won't even cover most of those labor intensive jobs. With this car it's not model year, it's just plain old luck of the draw. I've seen turbos fail on 2010-2012, with very little miles, and no tune. The best way to state this is that the 335I is just a very maintenance intensive vehicle period.

[Jklad]

Killerfish, your last sentance summed it up perfectly. It's very refreshing to hear about an '07 tuned and tracked since 38k running strong. Hopefully it's more common than the forums make it appear.

I've never even tracked mine, probobly launched it a handful of times only in the street, yet i've had all the issues i listed (except the power steering issue.), in addition to a new currently undiagnosed issue. Tuned since 60K, at 96k miles.

[boostd92]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

The other stuff that you say fails like the gaskets: oil filter, oil pan, 6AT trans gaskets, valve cover, thermostat, water pump, etc, will fail in 09-11 cars, and CPO won't even cover most of those labor intensive jobs.

The CPO warranty covers ALL of the repairs you quoted above.

CPO will not cover intake valve/walnut blasting, and unless the turbos are pissing oil everywhere, don't plan on getting new ones "just because they're old"

[joec500]

My advice resonates with a few who have already posted. I have had my car for 5 years and has been tuned since 11k miles and I now have 68k miles. If you buy an 07' car make sure all the recalls have been done with HPFP, injectors etc.

If the car has over 60k miles, look for a car that has had the oil filter housing gasket changed ($400-$600 job) and Waterpump/Thermostat replaced (~$1,000 job). If not, factor those two items into your purchase price. Also a walnut intake cleaning (~$400)

Early build 07's have had that subframe shredding belt issue and the MSD80 frying issue. The subframe one is the one to worry about. The frying MSD80 is generally a MOSFET that dies and can be repaired at minimal costs, but it's just a pain.

Hopefully the owner keep all the maintenance records, if not, WALK AWAY. Also look for a car that had oil changes in between the factory 10k mile intervals.

Issues to look for in 07 cars which should have been resolved with warranty:

1.) Camshafts
2.) Injectors
3.) VANOS
4.) Hopefully a turbo replacement (mine replaced at 48k miles) the early build cars had smaller wastegate actuators, unfortunately the newer arms still rattle.

In terms of how much boost stock turbos can take. I feel it's more about how the car was tuned, if it was tuned. I had 40k miles on my original turbos and they functioned and held boost just fine, but I was able to get turbos replaced due to wastegate rattle. Currently my car is boosting up to 21psi for the past 20k miles without any turbo issues. But the boost pressure is only one piece of what can cause turbo failures. Again it's not about the peak PSI, but rather tuning methods and supporting Mods. AND most importantly, maintenance.

Personally I would rather buy a car owned my an enthusiast who is meticulous about maintenance rather than a car owned by some joe schmoe who drove the thing back and forth to work and only performed maintenance at factory intervals.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by joec500

1.) Camshafts
2.) Injectors
3.) VANOS
4.) Hopefully a turbo replacement (mine replaced at 48k miles) the early build cars had smaller wastegate actuators, unfortunately the newer arms still rattle.

Again, I've had NONE of these issues (10/06 build date, 110K miles). you even forgot:

5.) Serpentine belt failure

I replaced my serpentine belt at 100K miles, and it still was ok. With this car it's luck of the draw! Just check in the general forums section, and 2010-2012 cars still have early turbo failure, injector issues, and even HPFP issues. For those of you who want to be re-assured, just check out my racing videos in the tracking section. Do a search using my username for my threads, and note that the car you are seeing rock the track is an '07 with >100K miles.

[gtaccord]

Never had a problem with my 07 at 80k miles. I drive ~100 miles/day so I put about 40k miles on it in 18 months. Normal maintenance is all it needed. As others have said, it is luck of the draw.

[deltalima0]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Again, I've had NONE of these issues (10/06 build date, 110K miles). you even forgot:

5.) Serpentine belt failure

I replaced my serpentine belt at 100K miles, and it still was ok. With this car it's luck of the draw! Just check in the general forums section, and 2010-2012 cars still have early turbo failure, injector issues, and even HPFP issues. For those of you who want to be re-assured, just check out my racing videos in the tracking section. Do a search using my username for my threads, and note that the car you are seeing rock the track is an '07 with >100K miles.

I am the same 10/06 zero issues really (92K) I replaced the serpentine belt recently just because I was reading here of people having problems.

Turbos were replaced under warranty like 80k by dealer cause they heard whine but they still worked fine. Luck of draw I guess and I am FBO JB4 G5 Cobb backend flash FBO 11 sec club 11.87 best time 1/4 @ 119.

I have vids on here and slips also.

[mbworldz]

Hi shiv,

I have a question for my car, I have the 2011 BMW 740i which has the N54 engine. I was reading the car and driver review and they said "In the 740, the aforementioned N54 3.0-liter twin-turbo inline-six is uprated from its previous 335i application by more boost, to the tune of 10.2 maximum psi. "

So when they said 10.2 Max psi, does it mean I can't add any more power to it? or the stock turbo can't handle higher psi ?

I talked to BMS, they said the JB+ will work on the 2011 740i, they recommend running it at the default settings. It will add about 2.75-3 psi over stock and is a noticeable improvement and is safe to use. Also what about your Procede System, will it work on 2011 740 i ?

I wanna hear your option since I am no expert on modifying cars. Will that damage the turbos or N54 can handle higher boost. I really want to get more punch to the car.

With the JB+ I notice there is a knob you can turn to adjust the psi level, what if I set to MAX, or may be close. would I get like 4 or 5 psi which is safe to use?

Any info will be great.

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

We've tuned many 10s eves and now a few 10s n54s. With a single turbo, the n54 feels every bit as quick/powerful as an equivalently powerful Evo. The difference is that it is far more drivable and less laggy since it's a high compression 3L vs. a low compression 2L. Tuned properly, with an appropriately sized turbo (so that it's not choked with exhaust back pressure), and sufficient octane, we have yet to find the boost/power limits of the N54. So far, we've been running up to 25psi with power in the ~680-700whp.

As always, hardware and software configuration/tune is key. Trying to run the factory turbos at 20psi will cause a lot more thermal stress to the engine than running a big single at 25psi with supporting mods.

shiv

[Chem612]

335xi with Cobb sport stage 1 w intakes and hitting 12-17 psi. Ok aggressive I had 20 a few times.

[Bme30]

Aftermarket turbo 30psi

[BQTuning]

Stockers 25 PSI

[Andym3100k]

Pure S2 27psi tap to 25psi, shooting for over 30 soon

[idratherbesurfing]

Im on stock turbos still....e30 fuel hitting 25psi hahaha

[Monster335]

You should get the evo IX, who doesnt want a rocket?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

3 Year old thread guys...

[=C=]

... So did he get the EVO, or the 335 in the end?


lol

[Aqid]

I'm reading through this entire thread... only to find that it was from 2012. Sigh.

[BKBMW335I]

Originally Posted by boostmg

i'm honestly thinking about the EVO now again.

I was just looking at some prices used cars are going for on the forums, and i'm seeing guys selling 2010s and 2008s for close to the price i could get this car for...

they came down to 28.5k for a 2011 with 21k ... now i'm not even thinking about the car ... i'm more hooked on the offer and taking it just because it's a good investment.

i don't plan on modding, the color is desirable, all it's missing is a nav, but i feel like i could probably keep the car for a year, sell it, and get my money back (or close to it)

That sounds like a really good deal, I think you should go for it. You said you're what, 24 now? Well at some point you'll get older and outgrow that boyracer look of the Evo and having a car that accelerates outta the hole isn't the only or one of the only things that matter.

As you get older you'll look for something more mature looking but has a bit of flair to it that you may be able to alter with a few mods, personally I like Evos and respect what they're capable of but the refinement of the 335i is just so smooth and inviting, classier and more upscale in look, fit and finish which you won't find in the Evo.

Ultimately though in the end you should get whatever makes you the happiest but that deal is a sweet one and you might find it fitting seeing that you do not intend to mod up too much which will limit the amount of problems you may encounter should you start going FBO with Meth and whatnot.

Best wishes on whatever you decide(d).

[N54Society]

Yeah old thread. It's kind of interesting how far the N54 has progressed when you read some of those old responses.

[TrAcK TRaP]

Originally Posted by idratherbesurfing

Im on stock turbos still....e30 fuel hitting 25psi hahaha

Cobb E30 map hitting 25 psi or you have a custom tune?