[Kenneykickin]

After watching 50s kid video, I’m pretty sure the 3 (bell housing bolts e10 are all horizontal) there is another bolt in the rear of the pan driver side that’s looks like a bolt hole but it seems the normal e12 bolt doesn’t go in there. I will post a pic. Seems to wide.

Thanks for everyone’s help this jobs been hell of a job, lol.

[Kenneykickin]

I guess I could also count the small e12 ones I think there’s 23 total (5big ones) (3 horizontal bell housing) correct me if wrong but yes very tedious expecially on jack stands crawling in and out under the car, lol

[Kenneykickin]

Is this a bolt bolt? It’s at the very corner in the rear by driver side door standard e12 bolt doesn’t fit in it. Is it just a drain hole or something? Confused. Cause I have all (23 small e12 torx installed) all (5) big e12 and the (3) e10 horizontal bell housing bolts installed. But it looks like something goes here.

[Kenneykickin]

Does anyone know what bolt or what goes here? I should have done a better job of keeping track what goes where since there are so many volts but I think I got everything done bolt wise besides the 2 pictures I’m showing and this bolt hole.

Thanks everyone.

[Kenneykickin]

I have everything torqued down on the pan. Everything went well. I am just now curious about the 2 pictures I posted above. Hope I didn’t miss anything.

Thanks

[Kenneykickin]

Does anyone know what these 2 bolts are from/for? They obviously came out of my vehicle but I’ have these left over. They don’t seem to be the bolts to the hole in the last picture. Maybe they are. I’m not sure. From 50skid video it looks like that last picture bolt isn’t used when putting pan back up but it’s hard to tell from video.

One bolt is a e10 and other is a e12.

[Bims328i]

In response to post #26 that appears to be an alignment hole or something. Present here on mine prior to doing the job.

For the other bolts, I'm not quite sure 🤔

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by Bims328i

In response to post #26 that appears to be an alignment hole or something. Present here on mine prior to doing the job.

For the other bolts, I'm not quite sure 🤔

Thanks for reply brother. Yeah everything is bolted back up I’m just waiting to put subframe back up until I heard from one of you guys. I was like I swear I got all the bolts back up.

That little hole on bottom right on top of where the tough side is (harder reach bolts) has me thrown off as well but I tried to thread one he e12 in there and it won’t thread so I’m assuming nothing goes there. But wanted make sure.

[Kenneykickin]

Edit: the e12 bolt was just an oil pan bolt. Counted the ones I removed and only had 22 so this was the 23rd one. Still sdont know where the e10 bolt is from tho. Cause the 3 bell housing bolts are e10 but I have replaced those and I have all 3 that I removed.

Still thrown off on this e10 bolt

[Kenneykickin]

Trying to remember what else takes a e10 bolt. Not power steering pump that takes 3 bolts and those are e12.

Hmm

[Kenneykickin]

If this helps anyone it had what looks like green thread locker on the e10 bolt.

I’m not tripping and there’s 4 horizontal bolts are there instead of the 3 bell housing horizontals? Again this on a n54 335i

[Kenneykickin]

I should have done a better job of bagging and marking each bolt in separate bags but when you’re on concrete doing this job with jack stands you kind just forget about that and just want get the damn thing off. Lol. I’ve quadrupled checked the pan and everything is in place besides this e10 bolt that I’m not sure what it goes too. I don’t really think it’s from the pan but than again I can’t remember what took just (1) e10 bolt it’s about twice size in length of the standard short e12 pan bolts.

[fastboatster]

How about steering shaft? It was an e10, and def had a locking compound on it

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by fastboatster

How about steering shaft? It was an e10, and def had a locking compound on it

You are very right Sir. Lol thank you I got all bunched up for nothing. This is how beat I am over this job, lol.

Thank you!!!!!

[fastboatster]

Originally Posted by Kenneykickin

You are very right Sir. Lol thank you I got all bunched up for nothing. This is how beat I am over this job, lol.

Thank you!!!!!

np at all, glad the job went well overall

[Bims328i]

Originally Posted by Kenneykickin

You are very right Sir. Lol thank you I got all bunched up for nothing. This is how beat I am over this job, lol.

Thank you!!!!!

Man I researched so much about this job only to have the crank throw block the pan from dropping for an entire day and a half until I figured it out. Broke the outgoing oil pump chain guide and the hood fell down on the support bar denting my hood. I had three whole days for this.

Shit was painful, had to do it in the dirt and I didn't even get to do the motor mounts but at least the car is running.

[Kenneykickin]

Originally Posted by Bims328i

Man I researched so much about this job only to have the crank throw block the pan from dropping for an entire day and a half until I figured it out. Broke the outgoing oil pump chain guide and the hood fell down on the support bar denting my hood. I had three whole days for this.

Shit was painful, had to do it in the dirt and I didn't even get to do the motor mounts but at least the car is running.

Oh bummer bro. I am glad you are up and running though. I feel your pain 100%. I wish I would have jacked all 4s up instead of just the front. It would have made the job ALOT more comfortable for me, no easier but more comfortable which I guess breaks down to easier honestly.. I am not done yet I just have the pan nicely seated but now that I figured out those (2) last bolts lol I will bolt everything back togather tomorrow. About 85% done now just got attach the steering shaft, power steering pump, sway bar, subframe and the transmission cooler line & oil cooler, and fan. Lol.

What a job.. I’m not newb when it comes to wrenching and I know this car pretty damn well, I’ve done all my repairs on it but damn this was a job I tell you.

I did the valve cover, new PCV valve, oil housing & oil cooler gaskets within the last 10k ish miles ago. I hope this is the end of my oil leaks.

IF my rear main seal is leaking I most likely will try that ATP-205 reseal even tho as much as I hate additives I’ve heard good things. I definitely don’t want to do the rear main seal after this job… even though I haven’t really found a DIY on it and I’ve HEARD labor time/cost is less than the oil pan gasket but I can not confirm.

149,600 miles on the vehicle. NONE of the gaskets have ever been replaced before this. I was surprised that the oil pan gasket wasn’t completely hard and brittle it actually still has some “rubber feel” to it. I was assuming it would just be a crusty crumbling gasket on take off.

Vehicle has been stock pretty much its whole life though as well so it really hasn’t been beaten on. I’ve owned it since 45k miles. Only mods on it are a 5” fmic & the dual cones. It was briefly tuned with Cobb stage 1+ for about 15-20k miles from mileage 90-105/110k.

Thank you everyone that responded and my apologies for the unorganized, repeated questions above, I was just over this damn job and exhausted lol. I am glad I did it though and didn’t have a Indy do it.

[Kenneykickin]

I also noticed right before this job that I have a very minor slow seeping coolant leak right around the water pump. I have not figured out exactly where it’s at I’m thinking possibly it’s the U house water pump. (Never been changed) this IS my 2nd water pump on this vehicle though. Funny enough the 1st one went out between 75-80k and I’m now at almost 150k… was under warranty at the time and had the dealer do it but ofc they didn’t do any the houses (they only replace what’s broke)

During the job manuevering stuff I did notice I also have a small seep from the bottom hose to the radiator to the (transmission cooler) or whatever it is. That connects to the fan assembly. A $45 hose for a genuine bmw one.

[Kenneykickin]

Having another issue getting the steering shaft e10 bolt flush. I think I f”ing cross threaded it. It’s extremely hard to turn with a 3/8 ratchet and 2 extensions. And it just looks a little off from behind. I’ll post a pic. Would it be “ok” to leave it how it is as it just holds the steering wheel in correct? If accident happened and air bags went off wouldn’t it just push it into the rack/colum more?

Idk what to do. Dudes I’m so done.

I was very carefully hand threading it in by hand before and all was going smooth until the last 7/8 end of it.

[Kenneykickin]

It goes in smooth until this spot in photo.

[Kenneykickin]

It’s got be cross threaded forsure. Not sure how it happened after going in smooth as long as it did… it shouldn’t be that hard to get flush. Screwed now. I have no idea what to do. No experience with taps or even what size I would need.

[tip_m]

Are you able to remove it? If so can find the right thread size but the top picture seems to show it go in off centered. Are you positive this is the right length bolt as it sounded like you had some leftovers and maybe some got mixed up.

For future reference you don’t need to take that bolt out, as I mentioned the shaft extended a fair amount. Both times I’ve done this hideous job I didn’t tough the shaft at all and one of those involved removing the subframe completely.