[mbanks21]

Looking to get suggestions on a new polish. I've used Klasse AIO in the past but I think I want something with a little more cut. I'm looking at Meguiar's Speed Glaze (#80)/Swirl Free Polish (#82) vs Menzerna Super Finish 4000/4500. Thoughts?

[marketmaster]

I'm sure this question has been answered but it there are so many pages to go through. I am looking to receive shipment of a 2007 335i graphite metallic. I understand all paint is different on thickness and what works best. I did have a PPI done and he mentioned that the paint read 7 all the way around the car and there was absolutely no paint work done on the car. I am looking to do a complete detail with a 2 stage and then seal with opti coat. Here is what I have:

Porter cable 7424
6'' backing plate
3" backing plate
M105 (I don't like working with this too much)
carpro denim pads (I think they would cut too much)
Surbuf microfiber 6" pads

What would you suggest on a new cutting polish? I am thinking the FG400? Is there something better on the market for these cars? I am also open to newer/better pads as well.

Thanks for your help.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by marketmaster

I'm sure this question has been answered but it there are so many pages to go through. I am looking to receive shipment of a 2007 335i graphite metallic. I understand all paint is different on thickness and what works best. I did have a PPI done and he mentioned that the paint read 7 all the way around the car and there was absolutely no paint work done on the car. I am looking to do a complete detail with a 2 stage and then seal with opti coat. Here is what I have:

Porter cable 7424
6'' backing plate
3" backing plate
M105 (I don't like working with this too much)
carpro denim pads (I think they would cut too much)
Surbuf microfiber 6" pads

What would you suggest on a new cutting polish? I am thinking the FG400? Is there something better on the market for these cars? I am also open to newer/better pads as well.

Thanks for your help.

Congrats on the new car and I'm glad you're looking to take care of it properly. Looks like you have some good tools so I'll just provide some input based on your questions.

First off, what exactly don't you like about M105?

I like to work with 5.5" pads with the PC7424 as they usually provide a better cut and more control. You can stick with the 6.5" pads and get great results, but if you decide to go with 5.5" pads, I like the Meguiar's 5" backing plate with the PC7424.
You can also look into Meg's Microfiber cutting pads as they'll leave a better finish than the surbuf pads and still have great correction ability. I have yet to try the demin pads so I really can't compare them to others.

As for the cutting polish, yes FG400 is a great polish/compound, but it may not cut as much as M105 in some cases. It's really worth having though if you plan on doing some polishing.

Lastly, regarding pads, I honestly work only with 5.5" pads and mainly use the Orange or Crimson Lake Country, Meg's Microfiber mentioned above and Rupes microfiber cutting pads.

Your paint is probably on the harder side and would probably benefit from a microfiber cutting pad with something like the FG400, then finish down well with M205 or Menzerna SF4500.

Hope that helps, but do let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Ivan @ DI

[nikosaur]

Apologies if this has already been covered in this thread but a search didn't seem to bring it up. What are your thoughts on using a drying blade?

[esum]

hi hi,

with winter almost coming to an END.. I was wondering what kind of products or methods can I use to remove Salt stain on the carpets?

I've tried salt eraser from the local part store and it doesn't do that well of a job.. it takes out like 40% of it, but still alot remains..

Thanks

[adriang]

I've got some clay from a general hardware store, can that be used for claying a car?

Do car clay bars have something specific in them as to why they are "car" clay bars?

[mbanks21]

Originally Posted by adriang

I've got some clay from a general hardware store, can that be used for claying a car?

Do car clay bars have something specific in them as to why they are "car" clay bars?

There are different grades of clay, similar to sandpaper with different grits. I wouldn't risk using it unless you confirm its safe for auto paint

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by nikosaur

Apologies if this has already been covered in this thread but a search didn't seem to bring it up. What are your thoughts on using a drying blade?

I personally don't like the risk associated with it. If the paint is 100% clean and the plastic blade is new and clean, there SHOULD be no issues. However, any dust settling on the paint and in the water of the just washed car, or anything on the actual blade, can easily cause light marring. In some cases, if a bigger particle gets stuck under there you can end up with a pretty noticeable scratch.

I prefer to speed up the drying process using the Metro Sidekick Blower, then picking up the remaining water quickly and easily with a Waffle Weave Drying Towel. This way I minimize the chance for creating some issues with the paint and still save lots of time compared to drying with only the towel.

In short though, you can surely use the blade and use it safely, plus on some paints that are more resistant to swirl marks you may get away with dragging some light dust on the paint. I simply hate the idea of taking that chance only to save the 10-15 minutes drying.

Originally Posted by esum

hi hi,

with winter almost coming to an END.. I was wondering what kind of products or methods can I use to remove Salt stain on the carpets?

I've tried salt eraser from the local part store and it doesn't do that well of a job.. it takes out like 40% of it, but still alot remains..

Thanks

I have had luck using 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover or Optimum Power Clean with a good carpet brush, but sometimes if the salt has been there a while it may need a professional's touch. A good cleaner, brush, steam cleaning and extracting may all be required even for a tiny salt stain if it's being stubborn and been there for a while. I'm not sure what you can pick up at a local store to try to remove more of it, but I would imagine starting with a better cleaner (maybe consult with the local carpet/flooring store rather than auto store) and a good brush.

Originally Posted by adriang

I've got some clay from a general hardware store, can that be used for claying a car?

Do car clay bars have something specific in them as to why they are "car" clay bars?

The short answer is, probably. Many enthusiasts and professionals have tried this over the years and the end results is always the same... modeling clay, or clay like it, can surely remove some contamination. However, it's a pain to work with, it breaks off and leaves clay residue all over, becomes very sticky very quickly and is normally a one time use. Automotive clay is synthetic and designed at various levels of abrasiveness (fine, medium, etc.) in order to remove everything from light tar and rail dust to heavier overspray, etc. Normally you can get good durability from a block of clay by simply using it properly and cleaning/brushing it a bit after the job.

Again though, if you use clay to decontaminate your car once a year and wish to spend only $3-5 instead of $20, you can surely at your own discretion go for it if it provides the results you're looking for and doesn't damage the paint.

[adriang]

Thanks for your responses everyone, I tried the general hardware store clay that I had and it worked amazingly. I made sure to lubricate the surface fairly well with soap and water and didn't cause any scratches!

The below pictures are after a long winter, washed, clayed, scratch fixed, sealed and about 3.5 hours time

If anyone is interested, I sanded the muck off the inside of the exahust tips with 600grit and water while wiping off excess dirt with a cloth. Then used an automotive chrome polish to make them shine

(Mind the dust on the bumpers they fell of the roof of the garage while the car was parked inside)

[mbanks21]

Any thoughts on this setup for light to medium paint correction (these are all products I already own):
Wash and clay of course
Meguiar's #2 (7/10 on the aggressive scale) with LC Orange
Meguiar's #205 with LC White
Klasse AIO (needed?)
Klasse Sealant
Meguiar's #26 Carnuba Wax

[SLOWER]

Just want to say you guys are awesome. Ordered Thursday night, stuff on my door step Saturday morning. Thank you!

[mo2566]

Any advice on getting this exhaust tip stain out or is it permanent? 90k miles 335i, this is the passenger side. The drivers isn't quite as bad but has some of the same markings. I have tried various cleaners, a metal polish, and some wire brushes. Thank you!

[SHEEDI]

Originally Posted by mo2566

Any advice on getting this exhaust tip stain out or is it permanent? 90k miles 335i, this is the passenger side. The drivers isn't quite as bad but has some of the same markings. I have tried various cleaners, a metal polish, and some wire brushes. Thank you!
Attachment 1031533

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=246663

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...tip-detailing/

[mo2566]

Originally Posted by SHEEDI

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=246663

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...tip-detailing/

Thank you for your links, and yes I searched MANY times which is how I came up with all the different methods I tried already. I am hoping for the Pro's at detailedimage to chime in their thoughts before I keep trying different methods from searches that may or may not work. They have helped me with advice on other forums in the past and I have bought lots of product from them so I respect their experience.

[SHEEDI]

Originally Posted by mo2566

Thank you for your links, and yes I searched MANY times which is how I came up with all the different methods I tried already. I am hoping for the Pro's at detailedimage to chime in their thoughts before I keep trying different methods from searches that may or may not work. They have helped me with advice on other forums in the past and I have bought lots of product from them so I respect their experience.

I wanted to add one more thing, once you got them clean, get them protected by Carpro CQUARTZ, look into their products., here is my car's pic, look at the exhaust

[mo2566]

Originally Posted by SHEEDI

I wanted to add one more thing, once you got them clean, get them protected by Carpro CQUARTZ, look into their products., here is my car's pic, look at the exhaust

Yeah, those look awesome. I am hoping I can get them back to close to that condition then I'll have no problem maintaining them. That Cquartz looks like good stuff

[E92inNC]

Hi Ivan,

Just wanted to get your thoughts if I'm using the correct set up.

PC7424 w/Dual Action 5 in hook & loop backing plate
MXT Polishing Foam Pad Cleaner
MXT Polishing Foam Pad Conditioner
CCS Orange 5.5 Cutting Pad w/Chemical Guys V36
CCS White 5.5 Cutting Pad w/Chemical Guys V38
CCS Gray w/Klasse SG

Thanks

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by mbanks21

Any thoughts on this setup for light to medium paint correction (these are all products I already own):
Wash and clay of course
Meguiar's #2 (7/10 on the aggressive scale) with LC Orange
Meguiar's #205 with LC White
Klasse AIO (needed?)
Klasse Sealant
Meguiar's #26 Carnuba Wax

That sounds like a good lineup. I haven't used #2 in a LONG time, but from what I remember it's a pretty decent compound/cutting polish. How well the pad/polish combos perform will depend on your paint, but you should be ok with those. KAIO is a good base for KSG the sealant, so yes I would say go ahead and do a quick pass with it using something mild, like a Blue Lake Country pad. All in all it sounds like a good plan you have lined up.

Originally Posted by SLOWER

Just want to say you guys are awesome. Ordered Thursday night, stuff on my door step Saturday morning. Thank you!

Thank you!

Originally Posted by mo2566

Any advice on getting this exhaust tip stain out or is it permanent? 90k miles 335i, this is the passenger side. The drivers isn't quite as bad but has some of the same markings. I have tried various cleaners, a metal polish, and some wire brushes. Thank you!
Attachment 1031533

I normally have good luck with steel wool and Mother's or Meguiar's metal polishes, but that does look pretty bad. I can't say I've tried every product out there so I'm not sure if there's a magical solution for it, but I'd try some other things then possibly consult with a local detailer or performance shop to see what they recommend. Wish I could be of more help, but it gets hard recommending stuff over the internet and just looking at pics .

Let us know if you find a good solution and as sheedi said, definitely protect the tips regularly once they're fixed or refinished.

Originally Posted by sxyblue

Hi Ivan,

Just wanted to get your thoughts if I'm using the correct set up.

PC7424 w/Dual Action 5 in hook & loop backing plate
MXT Polishing Foam Pad Cleaner
MXT Polishing Foam Pad Conditioner
CCS Orange 5.5 Cutting Pad w/Chemical Guys V36
CCS White 5.5 Cutting Pad w/Chemical Guys V38
CCS Gray w/Klasse SG

Thanks

It sounds like the right combination but I've never tried the two Chemical Guy's polishes or the pad cleaner and conditioner, so can't really comment on those. I like to apply Klasse SG by hand, but by machine should be fine as well.

Ivan @ DI

[railesq]

Should I have asked before buying? Perhaps, but I think it'll work out.

So I have, on hand, Orange and Black (3x each) pads with a PC 7424XP. I've used them with Klasse AIO and Klasse SG previously, which I also have on hand. I've been happy with the results (and likely will like them more when I shift them down pad levels, AIO on black and SG on white).

However, I'm taking on a much harder job coming up - 240k miles of Midwestern driving abuse. My plan is this:

Wash (with Dawn, to get every last bit of crap product from car washes off)
Clay bar - Meguires or DI clay, whichever is closer to my hand that day
Menzerna FG400 with LC Orange
Menzerna SG4000 with LC Black
Klasse AIO with LC Black
Klasse SG with LC White

This'll be a difficult job, as the paint hasn't been touched by someone who knows what they're doing in 10 years. Am I missing anything? I know I should be starting with the least abrasive first, and normally I'd be nervous, but this car definitely needs something with good cut.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by railesq

Should I have asked before buying? Perhaps, but I think it'll work out.

So I have, on hand, Orange and Black (3x each) pads with a PC 7424XP. I've used them with Klasse AIO and Klasse SG previously, which I also have on hand. I've been happy with the results (and likely will like them more when I shift them down pad levels, AIO on black and SG on white).

However, I'm taking on a much harder job coming up - 240k miles of Midwestern driving abuse. My plan is this:

Wash (with Dawn, to get every last bit of crap product from car washes off)
Clay bar - Meguires or DI clay, whichever is closer to my hand that day
Menzerna FG400 with LC Orange
Menzerna SG4000 with LC Black
Klasse AIO with LC Black
Klasse SG with LC White

This'll be a difficult job, as the paint hasn't been touched by someone who knows what they're doing in 10 years. Am I missing anything? I know I should be starting with the least abrasive first, and normally I'd be nervous, but this car definitely needs something with good cut.

I think you'll do great on the job. Here's some stuff I would adjust base don the supplies you have.

There's no point to use a white pad with KSG as you're only looking to apply, so use a black pad with that. I would use a white pad with SF4000 (I assume you mistyped that SG4000) if necessary but if not, a black pad should be fine too. The rest looks good, but as you said, you should try a less aggressive combo (maybe FG400 and white) and see how that does.

Let us know how it goes.

Ivan @ DI

[railesq]

Yes, typo. And I got white and black confused, which, you'd think, being opposites...but whatever! I'm set straight now. It's a thing I'm doing for my dad, and I get the car next week, but I'll have it for 2 months or so. Likely 4th of July weekend I'll tackle the thing.

Thank you!

[Sergiokzn]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

I think you'll do great on the job. Here's some stuff I would adjust base don the supplies you have.

There's no point to use a white pad with KSG as you're only looking to apply, so use a black pad with that. I would use a white pad with SF4000 (I assume you mistyped that SG4000) if necessary but if not, a black pad should be fine too. The rest looks good, but as you said, you should try a less aggressive combo (maybe FG400 and white) and see how that does.

Let us know how it goes.

Ivan @ DI

Hi, i`ve read a lot of your posts but didn`t seem to find anything about using those "absorbo" (i believe that`s what they called) towels, you know the ones Walmart and auto zone sells..they have some kind of rubbery structure..So i was just wondering if they are safe to use before MF towel dry. Also is using a waterblade good for a clear coat? Because sometimes it makes that squeaky sound when dragging on a paint and it just kills me. Thank you!