[robc1976]

Originally Posted by project335i

Glad your happy dude and it's sitting the way you want, glad I could help. Again it will be sitting alot better when I fit some proper rims on there. Keep up the good work myu friend

We ate going to build/design so crazy rims...have decide to up the budget on this project rims are the focal point!

[project335i]

Originally Posted by robc1976

We ate going to build/design so crazy rims...have decide to up the budget on this project rims are the focal point!

Dude that's what makes or breaks a car IMO atleast. I told you around the price they would've around depending on powder coating painting plating etc... You know my number just text me what you have in mind and I will see where you will be around

[robc1976]

Guys, after I adjusted them shorter the ride is now VERY rough....?? The night before, when I had them a bit longer, the ride was much better. I think the sway bar is now constantly preloaded....

[avenger2540]

Originally Posted by #Tee

dont use the ramps, jack up car and leave front on stands....remove the wheels and let the suspension droop this way there will load on the swaybars. shorten the links about 1 inch and they should easily attach to the strut and swaybar. you can place the jack under the rotor and jack it up a bit to line up the holes.

Most coils should supply you with shorter end links.

Hey budd, I have meyle endlinks on my car not adjust, I got some vibration, my car is drop like 2" or closed to, u think the it will be to much load on the sway bar the causing the vibration? All my controls arms and tie rods are brand new.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by avenger2540

Hey budd, I have meyle endlinks on my car not adjust, I got some vibration, my car is drop like 2" or closed to, u think the it will be to much load on the sway bar the causing the vibration? All my controls arms and tie rods are brand new.

Harold@HPAutowerks (suspension specialist) said to adjust the links while wheels are on and at ride height (I put all 4 wheels on ramps) so basically car is on the ground at ride height and I can get under it and adjust the links do they're is no load. Harold said most make the mistake of pre-loading sway bar....sway bar should only have load when cornering ECT.

[#Tee]

Originally Posted by avenger2540

Hey budd, I have meyle endlinks on my car not adjust, I got some vibration, my car is drop like 2" or closed to, u think the it will be to much load on the sway bar the causing the vibration? All my controls arms and tie rods are brand new.

Ive never experienced endlinks causing steering vib. Just to make sure you can dc one endlink rendering it useless to troubleshoot. also put your stock wheels back on or borrow a known good balanced set of wheels so you can eliminate the wheels being the culprit.

[avenger2540]

Originally Posted by #Tee

Ive never experienced endlinks causing steering vib. Just to make sure you can dc one endlink rendering it useless to troubleshoot. also put your stock wheels back on or borrow a known good balanced set of wheels so you can eliminate the wheels being the culprit.

Thats a good idea, I will try my stock wheels and see what happend, can I just do the front ones or do I have to do all of them? Thanks for ur help.

[#Tee]

Originally Posted by avenger2540

Thats a good idea, I will try my stock wheels and see what happend, can I just do the front ones or do I have to do all of them? Thanks for ur help.

just the front ones. another thing when diagnosing anything is trying to remember the last thing that happened (hit a hard bump) or you "upgraded a component" and then the steering vib appeared? check if all the wheel weights are in tact and inspect the tires for bubbles, sometimes theres an internal steel belt separation which goes undetected from the outside. This will make the tire very unstable and impossible to balance = the steering vib. which is why i ask to swap wheels, its a quick way to eliminate a bent wheel/tire issues. If the whole car shakes then most like the rear wheels are out of balance.

[avenger2540]

Originally Posted by robc1976

Harold@HPAutowerks (suspension specialist) said to adjust the links while wheels are on and at ride height (I put all 4 wheels on ramps) so basically car is on the ground at ride height and I can get under it and adjust the links do they're is no load. Harold said most make the mistake of pre-loading sway bar....sway bar should only have load when cornering ECT.

Thanks man for that great info.

[avenger2540]

Originally Posted by #Tee

just the front ones. another thing when diagnosing anything is trying to remember the last thing that happened (hit a hard bump) or you "upgraded a component" and then the steering vib appeared? check if all the wheel weights are in tact and inspect the tires for bubbles, sometimes theres an internal steel belt separation which goes undetected from the outside. This will make the tire very unstable and impossible to balance = the steering vib. which is why i ask to swap wheels, its a quick way to eliminate a bent wheel/tire issues. If the whole car shakes then most like the rear wheels are out of balance.

Thanks man that was great help, now the last thing I did was replacing the tie rods assembly inner and outer, but the car already vibrate, but now after the installation is worse, the onlything I recall was the I didnt lift the disk to ride height while puting the tierod in the knoclke and tighting the nuts, so I thing I put them with alot of tension on it, so I dont know if u recommend loose the nuts disconect the tie rods and re torque them in the ride height position, so what u think ?

[avenger2540]

Originally Posted by robc1976

Harold@HPAutowerks (suspension specialist) said to adjust the links while wheels are on and at ride height (I put all 4 wheels on ramps) so basically car is on the ground at ride height and I can get under it and adjust the links do they're is no load. Harold said most make the mistake of pre-loading sway bar....sway bar should only have load when cornering ECT.

Hey I didnt notice that was u at german*, lol I know u give some info aready but am still doing some research, I will do that this coming sat so am trying to get the more info I can before do anything, thanks for ur input man...

[#Tee]

Originally Posted by avenger2540

Thanks man that was great help, now the last thing I did was replacing the tie rods assembly inner and outer, but the car already vibrate, but now after the installation is worse, the onlything I recall was the I didnt lift the disk to ride height while puting the tierod in the knoclke and tighting the nuts, so I thing I put them with alot of tension on it, so I dont know if u recommend loose the nuts disconect the tie rods and re torque them in the ride height position, so what u think ?

when you say tie rods are you talking about the tension rods? or the actual tie rods that bolts up to steering knuckle. ive installed them on other cars without suspension load knowing i would have to make toe adjustments (suspension will be loaded during a alignment.

[avenger2540]

Originally Posted by #Tee

when you say tie rods are you talking about the tension rods? or the actual tie rods that bolts up to steering knuckle. ive installed them on other cars without suspension load knowing i would have to make toe adjustments (suspension will be loaded during a alignment.

Yea the actual tie rods, and after the install they did an align so we discard that option? So I dont have to re do that again right? So I will try the wheels then.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by #Tee

just the front ones. another thing when diagnosing anything is trying to remember the last thing that happened (hit a hard bump) or you "upgraded a component" and then the steering vib appeared? check if all the wheel weights are in tact and inspect the tires for bubbles, sometimes theres an internal steel belt separation which goes undetected from the outside. This will make the tire very unstable and impossible to balance = the steering vib. which is why i ask to swap wheels, its a quick way to eliminate a bent wheel/tire issues. If the whole car shakes then most like the rear wheels are out of balance.

I wish I would have taken this advice a while back....instead I checked everything else and it ended up being my rim lol!

[avenger2540]

Originally Posted by robc1976

I wish I would have taken this advice a while back....instead I checked everything else and it ended up being my rim lol!

I am hoping that is a tire instead with a bubble, not a rim,

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by avenger2540

I am hoping that is a tire instead with a bubble, not a rim,

by the look of it you have M6 reps such I am guessing are forged...less likely to bend like my cast rim.

[Basis swap]

Reviving a dead thread here.

I am on H&R and Koni Yellows. Put them on in 2015. My Front is ~1.5 inches lower than stock. Strange how I didn't notice this earlier, but the ride was crap. A year or so into the new setup my front shocks went bust. For a long time I didn't know if it was the shocks or my mind. Eventually, I ordered new struts under warranty and had them replaced.

After replacing the front struts this summer under warranty, and installing new OEM end links i nthe process, I realized my ride was HORRIBLE. Any road imperfections would mean the car would jump sideways. What surprised me was that even on its softest setting, the Koni struts were rigid beyond just a little bit of compression. I was very disappointed. No idea how I never felt this before, especially when my front struts were blown and the car sat even lower.

Long story short: I ordered adjustable end links. Set them to 13 inches (stock is 11.5), and holy crap!, the ride improved. Suspension can now do its job without interference from a pre-loaded sway bar. Instead of being rigid, it is now a lot more proper. Even my wife noticed the difference in the ride quality. Quite simply, my short end links forced the sway bar to rotate upwards. This alters the geometry of the bar in a bad way. For me, it was about 13.5 inches from the center of the wheel to the top of the wheel well.

Longer front end links are NOT AN OPTION when lowering an inch or more. They are a NECESSITY. The install is very easy, thank fully. Just do it.

[rulonger]

Originally Posted by Basis swap

Longer front end links are NOT AN OPTION when lowering an inch or more. They are a NECESSITY. ... Just do it.

Which end links did you install?

I lowered my 2010 this past spring from base suspension to the Bilstein B12 prokit (Bilstein struts/shocks paired with Eibach springs). Lowered all four corners by an inch. But I have kept the stock sway and stock end links. Ride is firmer, but what you described is what I feel.

FWIW - glad you revived this old thread.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Basis swap

Longer front end links are NOT AN OPTION when lowering an inch or more. They are a NECESSITY. The install is very easy, thank fully. Just do it.

Won't be any preload on swaybar if both links are same length, regardless whether lowered or not, but you are correct, to function properly need to be in correct geometrical position. What did you do with the rear links? Those need to be shorter on lowered e9x.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by feuer

Won't be any preload on swaybar if both links are same length, regardless whether lowered or not, but you are correct, to function properly need to be in correct geometrical position. What did you do with the rear links? Those need to be shorter on lowered e9x.

Hotchkiss makes a set which has the front & rear adjustable sway bar links for around $150.00.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hss-25834