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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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E93 Blaupunkt Amplifier & Tweeter Install
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04-12-2009, 11:53 AM | #23 |
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Upgraded to L7 tweeters and L7 Mids yesterday on my E90 from the standard speakers.
Big difference compared to the standard. Although the standard was not that bad - well compared to my LandRover Discovery that is............. The new window trim came with the tweeter triangle foam cut out in but interestingly the foam in the non tweeter trim fitted as standard on my car also had the cutout in? Next will be the amp and the subs.
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06-11-2009, 01:20 PM | #24 |
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06-29-2009, 12:11 PM | #25 | |
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Nev
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06-29-2009, 12:19 PM | #26 |
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Did the mids make any difference? Been debating this after doing the L7 tweeters, blaupunkt amp and SWS subs... it's lacking mid-bass and not sure if its the subs or the mids that would 'fill it in' so to speak
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07-02-2009, 05:09 AM | #27 |
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I did the Tweeters and Mids before anything else and it made a really big difference to my ears, it then lacked bass on most but not all tracks - depending on the original recording i guess.
The sound was more defined and clearer. Nev
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07-09-2009, 09:55 AM | #28 |
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OK I finally got my 475 installed and wow what a difference!
Now here is my question, I have the e92 coupe with the basic music system and I have added some tweeters (from a forum member who purchased the Alpine Option). Now what the feck is hi pass low pass blah blah blah blah blah. I feel like Homer Simpson. There is a Hi Pass and a Low pass setting on both front and rear of the amp and a switch wich turns the filter on and off? The rear speakers are running on the 2 rear channels and the front channels are driving the Sub, the door speakers and the tweeters. What settings should I use? Ta in advance. |
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07-10-2009, 01:56 AM | #29 | |
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If you have not moved any of the settings, leave them where they are, I optimised the settings based on a couple of threads on here. hope this helps. |
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07-10-2009, 04:10 AM | #30 |
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Here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-pass_filter http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-pass_filter Controls the amount of frequency passing through it, either cutting out the highs or lows. Have a look at the other thread where Gizze explains it very well (search for blaupunkt). Important is the settings for the levels, and not sending bass through through the tweeters... although not sure how your going to do that if all the fronts including subs are running through the same channel. |
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07-10-2009, 04:50 AM | #31 |
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I just had this reply from a US member..... Now this all seems a little complex for a novice like me, but I hope that by adding the tweeters (like I have) I will not do any damage to my amp!
Hi Richard The main problem here is not the filters of the THA475, is the way that you connected the OEM speakers to this aftermarket amp, specifically the front speakers. Your base system originally have the underseat subs connected in parallel to the front full range 4" drivers. There is a capacitor inline between the 6.5" underseat woofer and the 4" full range driver which accomplishes two jobs: keeps the total impedance in 4 ohms and separates the low frequencies (woofer) from the mid/high frequencies (4" full range). By adding an extra set of tweeters to the front speakers you effectively changed both the impedance and the frequency filtering. The filtering can be fixed, but the new impedance can damage your THA475 if it goes below 2 ohms, which it is in fact 1.33 ohms with the new tweeters at least. The amp will eventually overheat and fail if it is drawing too much current due to the low impedance. If you do not understand all this mumbo-jumbo of technical information at least understand this: you cannot set this THA475 and the front speakers the way you did. You will need to connect the THA475 4-channels only to the front speakers: - channels 1-2: connect them to the front 4" full range driver and the new tweeters. Set the THA475 front filter to high pass, at around 150Hz. - channels 3-4" connect them to the underseat woofers. Set the THA475 rear filter to low pass, at around 150Hz. The rear OEM speakers will be driven by your OEM HU/iDrive unit. |
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07-12-2009, 01:55 PM | #32 |
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Big thanks for this sticky.
Have had the parts for a few months but finally got off my lazy arse to fit these. Once i found my torx set it only took 30mins. But have to say without this sticky i would have never known about the 4th screw on the passenger door grab handle. Note there is only 3 screws on the driver side. Also the plastic window trim i got also had the foam included so no need to order separately. Oh and i left a quart of blood all over the car as those plastic bits are razor sharp But thanks once again. I need to get Leftfield's Leftism from the archives in my garage (that might take a while to find) to give it a proper sound test. 2 mins of Death Magnetic, and i've dialed back the treble already and the sound is more focused. |
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07-12-2009, 05:51 PM | #33 | |
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Basically he's saying use the 4 channel amp to just run the fronts and subs, and let the head unit run the back (to be honest, some people just turn off the back ones altogether) Like I said above, couldn't quite figure out how you would then be filtering out the frequencies... if you set them up the way that guy says, you are using the amp to filter out the bass from the front speakers, and the high frequency from the subs... so they just run what they are supposed to.. and the amp is happy. |
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07-13-2009, 05:37 AM | #34 | |
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Dose any one know where I can tap in to the Sub's feed? Do you reckon this can mostly be done from behind the radio? Any suggestions for connecting up as suggested by e-mail from the US member? Will have to wait till the weekend now, I hope the amp keeps running till then! |
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07-13-2009, 06:41 AM | #35 |
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Sorry mate, I took mine to an installer to have fitted as I didn't want these kind of issues to surface (actually, mine ended up blowing up after they didn't fit it right! So didn't quite work out).
I would honestly just take it to a local installer, or get them to come to you, and have them wire it up properly. If you've already installed it and fitted it, it's only a matter of them putting the right wires in the right holes, shouldn't be too expensive (it'll more expensive replacing the amp after you blow it up... they wouldn't replace mine as they said it was faulty install) |
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07-14-2009, 05:20 AM | #36 |
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If you look at the Alpine Retrofit fitting guide (other sticky) you will see that the feeds to the front speakers (subs and mids) run as a single pair (Front L and Front R) to the front door sills, where they are spliced and split to feed the Sub and Mid separately. So, you will need to run new cables directly to the subs/mids/tweeters or tap into the existing speaker feeds in the sills.
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07-20-2009, 12:41 PM | #37 |
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Hi,
Following a similar update path I want to thank both gIzzE and CrimsonRed, I wouldn't have started without their "guidance" but, to be honest, I am not there yet... I have splited my journey in two, actually three phases: 1) door speaker upgrade: Audio System components made for BMW http://www.pimpmysound.com/product_i...oducts_id=5533 Done with successs! Great improvement - worth everey and each cent!!! 2) subwoofer upgrade: Audio System AX 08 BMW http://www.caraudio-store.de/product..._id=7085&ref=5 Done just under driver's seat - not great so far, actually I am quite worried, it revs pretty bad if I put some extra bass, the OEM one (passenger side) has no problems with that . Any tips on fixing that? So far I am still running the front mids, tweaters, subwoofers and rear speakers on the HU... 3) THA 555 ordered today Still don't know what would it be the cause for the subwoofer misbehaviour...if I cut the bass it sounds o.k. still worse than the OEM Should I put back the OEM and wait for the amplifier?SHould I use some isolation foam? What gives, tipically, the revs? Last edited by nmf69; 07-20-2009 at 03:13 PM.. |
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08-06-2009, 06:01 PM | #38 |
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just a quick question guys,
you know the additional blaupunkt stuff? Blaupunkt Cable adapter 7 607 622 016-001 Blaupunkt 5.5m extension cable 7 607 622 011-001 where did you buy them from and how did they cost? also did you amplify all 4 speakers or just the front two and the subs which are under the front seats? |
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08-07-2009, 03:56 AM | #39 | |
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The Amp drives all speakers in the car, the Amp gets the 4 channel inputs from the head, the cable runs the feed to the Amp and the same cable runs it back (to the head unit) and then connects to the original plug from the head unit and feeds the car speakers, assuming you get the 4 or 5 channel Amp. I hope this makes sense to you! |
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08-08-2009, 05:31 AM | #40 |
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I reckon the reason why the Amps keep blowing is due to the following
http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pa...ngspeakers.htm or http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm See connecting Speakers in Parallel. All the front speakers & the Subs are connected in Parallel.... If you have either added yourself or had the tweeter fitted as standard you now have three x 4 Ohm speakers connected in parallel. This equals a load on the amp of less than 2 Ohms (1.3333Ohms to be exact). This wil most definatly cause the Amp to burn out! I got home last night and the wife came home a few mins after me. She said she could smell burning by the car. I went outside and thought SHITE. I could smell something similar to (remember when you used to solder speaker wires and the plastic would melt!) warm or burning plastic! My nose went all round the car and I could not tell where it was coming from, but there was a strange smell. I park my car in an enclosed car-port under the house so the smell lingered for a while but as I have no doors as such the smell went after a while. I am now driving round with the Radio whispering at me.! I will have to re wire the system some how.... Thinking I will have to disconnect the Subs from the Front curcuit and re connect them in parallel to the rear speakers? One more option is to Buy the THA 1250 and Connect the Subs Directly to that Any Ideas????? Last edited by illingworth22; 08-08-2009 at 06:12 AM.. |
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08-10-2009, 06:36 AM | #41 | |
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1) Could I connect the second Amp to the Phono OUtputs of the Blaupunkt Amp? 2) The power wire which comes direct from the head unit (+ feed) can I use this + feed as the switch to the Amp (i.e. connect the second Amp to the battery and then have the feed from the radio to turn the Amp on) 3) Any suggestions for my second Amp? I can't seem to find any THA-1250 for sale! |
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11-05-2009, 02:46 AM | #42 |
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ill bump this thread.
wich one of the speakers did u prefer? the aftermarket, or the L7? did anyone of you order from pimpmysound.com? i had mailcontact with them, they answered me fast. but when i sent the payment he just said in the first week of november they will send my shipment. but i dont know why he stopped answering mails well, he has only good transactions on ebay. so im worried, but still not. answer please ^^ |
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03-29-2010, 01:27 PM | #43 |
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Shoot! I've got a trunk pass thru (it flips open to expose a hole thru which you can pass long objects like skis).
Where do I install my amp you figure? If I put it on the back of that cover, which is plastic, I'm worried it might rattle, and maybe not even be able to open it, when it folds down. I don't even have an amp picked out yet either... More issues to deal with! Here's Crimson's spot: Here's the back of my seats: |
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03-29-2010, 05:48 PM | #44 | |
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Why dont you just go for the Vibe Litebox S4 amp? Much smaller than the THA so can be mounted somewhere else?! |
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