[BashShah]

This Guide is ONLY for the REALLY Tough Front Turbo Vacuum line.
Rest are pretty Self explanatory.

replaced my Lines with 3.5mm (Inner Diameter) Rubber tubes from local autostore. (Lordco) they said it is used for turbo cars and Windshield washer lines also....LOL
you will need 13 feet but ordered 15 feet.

Now those Rubber Hoses worked, my Boost Code disappeared but rattle was still there coming to a actuator rod....

so, I decided to replace all lines with COOL RED color and Black color Silicone Vacuum lines.
RESULT: ok....rattle was significantly reduced but still there and not as loud.
made a big difference.

so use good stuff. PS: I replaced them on both sides of the engine....meaning all Lines....right to the Turbo actuators.
Front Turbo is a PITA.... but I figured out a Ingenious way to get it OFF and ON.

This Link has the Best Prices I found and very good Product:
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ld-by-the-Foot

DO NOT Replace the Plastic Lines on top of Engine. else you may get a burning spell in the Cabin.

Front Turbo tips:
1- to remove old lines, I used a Safety blade to cut them.....then twist and pull off...(this is for all connectors and T joints)
2) Front Turbo, un-Mount Vacuum canisters and Coolant Reservoir. No Need to Remove.....just get it out of the way, and give your Hand and Arm more room.
3) with LEFT HAND - Now you can ONLY get 1 Hand in there, and can only get 2 fingers on the line....so...
Get Left Hand all the way to the actuator,
4) Get an EXACTO knife that is fully functional and NOT too Thick in width.
dollar store stuff will work.
5) with RIGHT HAND - Slide Exacto knife from front of Engine and then extract the Blade so it touches the vacuum line. (with your left hand in there.....try to visually see your hand from the front of the engine....that will be your entry point for the Exacto Knife.)
6) with Left Hand( Fingers) push on back of blade to cut the OEM Line. (don't worry about damaging actuator.....it's the only vacuum connector that is metal.)


Now to get the Line back on.....its a PITA cause the Vacuum line does not keep a Bended shape and you can only do so much with 2 fingers

so....my way... go to homedepot wiring department and take a 1 inch length vacuum line with you. (just 1 Inch will do, and just to test in the store)
Ask for a SOLID STRAND wiring. (50 cent per METER) (1 Meter is more than enough)
now, strip the insulation off the wire to see it easily fits into the Vacuum line.
if so....Buy it. 1 meter will do. (coat Hanger is tooo Thick. and tooo Rigid) you want a Line, that is thinner than a Coat Hanger.


1) Cut the exact length of vacuum line you need for front turbo. (you wont be able to measure it later)
2) from the Front of the Engine, get your New Sold strand wire into the Front actuator vacuum connector. (Fish your solid strand from the same spot that you used for the Exacto Knife.) With Left Hand make sure your Solid Strand is INSERTED into the Turbo actuator Vacuum Connector.

3) Slide your vacuum line onto (on top of) the SOLID Strand wire.....that is your Fool proof guide and all you need to do is push it on the vacuum connector. when it feels like it is in all the way......just pull the solid strand out.

Good Luck, and Enjoy quicker Throttle Response.
Just paying back to the community that helped me out.

[Jaronbwall]

So you're using the solid strand wire to as a guide? It makes the new hose follow it down to the connector?

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by Jarronbwall

So you're using the solid strand wire to as a guide? It makes the new hose follow it down to the connector?

correct.... else it's a Pain the in the rear.
also note to put i the solid strand in from the front of the engine rather than the side. use left hand to guide into the turbo actuator connector.

good luck.

[mweisdorfer]

Gosh, I wish I had this in June when I did mine. I fiddled with the front actuator for a couple of hours trying to get the new line on. I ended up having to whittle out the opening a little in the front part of the line just so I could have a better chance of getting the line on the actuator tube. It worked, but this would be a whole lot easier, thats for sure.

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Gosh, I wish I had this in June when I did mine. I fiddled with the front actuator for a couple of hours trying to get the new line on. I ended up having to whittle out the opening a little in the front part of the line just so I could have a better chance of getting the line on the actuator tube. It worked, but this would be a whole lot easier, thats for sure.

LOL .... I did what you did the first time with the rubber lines.... yeah it took me 2 hours also.
2 second time..... I could not get the new Silicon line to bend as easily as the rubber lines. and it would just miss it's mark. and I was trying from the front also. but by the time you put pressure on the line, ....it slipped....wtf.

So, I decided to learn how not to let it slip off.... then wola.

mweisdorfer I found something when I removed my rubber lines.....you should check this....the line was not in all the way....so....feel the actuator's metal connector and see if your new line is in all the way.
feel the metal connector's bottom...and how far up is the new line?
also if you used Silicone lines, then the wall thickness is bigger.....so you see a point where you can not push any further.

but other than rattle noise reduction, i had huge lag reduction also..... big difference.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by DarkNemesis

LOL .... I did what you did the first time with the rubber lines.... yeah it took me 2 hours also.
2 second time..... I could not get the new Silicon line to bend as easily as the rubber lines. and it would just miss it's mark. and I was trying from the front also. but by the time you put pressure on the line, ....it slipped....wtf.

So, I decided to learn how not to let it slip off.... then wola.

I think one of the reason you guys struggled is because its a thick walled 3.5mm hose. I used a 4mm hose for the wg barbs. Those are fat barbs and 4mm hose works much easier and snug.

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

I think one of the reason you guys struggled is because its a thick walled 3.5mm hose. I used a 4mm hose for the wg barbs. Those are fat barbs and 4mm hose works much easier and snug.

never even considered this.
but the oem hose line is 3.5mm right?....or we wrong there also?

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by DarkNemesis

never even considered this.
but the oem hose line is 3.5mm right?....or we wrong there also?

Well, i have tried the 3.5 and its too hard and too tight. Believe oem is 3.5, its not silicone tho so not as sticky and springy. It will be also be interesting to measure the id of your hose.
Ordered (this was some time ago) 4mm silicone hose from mc master carr, works great on the wg barbs. Ended up using it everywhere except the intake manifold barb where i use a 3.5.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by DarkNemesis

LOL .... I did what you did the first time with the rubber lines.... yeah it took me 2 hours also.
2 second time..... I could not get the new Silicon line to bend as easily as the rubber lines. and it would just miss it's mark. and I was trying from the front also. but by the time you put pressure on the line, ....it slipped....wtf.

So, I decided to learn how not to let it slip off.... then wola.

mweisdorfer I found something when I removed my rubber lines.....you should check this....the line was not in all the way....so....feel the actuator's metal connector and see if your new line is in all the way.
feel the metal connector's bottom...and how far up is the new line?
also if you used Silicone lines, then the wall thickness is bigger.....so you see a point where you can not push any further.

but other than rattle noise reduction, i had huge lag reduction also..... big difference.

I'll check it next time I'm in there. I used the 3.5mm platinum cured silicone lines from Verocious Motorsports. Very nice set of lines.

[Kaz26]

Just wanted to say thank you. This is a great method for the front, but that rear is also a pain and having large hands and forearms makes this task so much harder than it should be.

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by Kaz26

Just wanted to say thank you. This is a great method for the front, but that rear is also a pain and having large hands and forearms makes this task so much harder than it should be.

Ok, here is an Idea which I have not tried yet, but it should work.

1) Raise your Car High enough that you can get under it safely and a bit elbow room also.

2) Now you should be able to see and reach the Rear Turbo Actuator.

key is to raise you car high enough, or pay a shop to put it on a Hoist for 20 min or less.

Option 2, get someone that can do it, to do it without a hoist.

Good Luck.

[HPIA4v2]

I am curious about the rear actuator from the solenoid, how you guys did it?
Take of the down-pipe or access it through the wheel well?

The front actuator from the solenoid no issue for me, but I have 535i with N54.

Any tips would be great

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by HPIA4v2

I am curious about the rear actuator from the solenoid, how you guys did it?
Take of the down-pipe or access it through the wheel well?

The front actuator from the solenoid no issue for me, but I have 535i with N54.

Any tips would be great

Well, Not sure on 535, but on 335 e90, e92, you just reach behind the engine on the passenger's side of the engine.

can you post a picture of the passenger side of the engine?
might just need to remove some items out of the way.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by BashShah

replaced my Lines with 3.5mm (Inner Diameter) Rubber tubes from local autostore. (Lordco) they said it is used for turbo cars and Windshield washer lines also....LOL

LQTM...

Thanks for the tip BTW...I've got all the lines done except the two that go to the front and rear turbo...will knock those out tonight...

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

LQTM...

Thanks for the tip BTW...I've got all the lines done except the two that go to the front and rear turbo...will knock those out tonight...

Get these
This Link has the Best Prices I found and very good Product:
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ld-by-the-Foot

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by BashShah

Get these
This Link has the Best Prices I found and very good Product:
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ld-by-the-Foot

I see you're in Canada and recommend that link. I wanted to order 15 feet but they charge 35$ USD in shipping alone to Canada.

Did you really order there seeing you are Canadian as well?

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

I see you're in Canada and recommend that link. I wanted to order 15 feet but they charge 35$ USD in shipping alone to Canada.

Did you really order there seeing you are Canadian as well?

I live really close to USA border in Surrey BC and have a mail box there for USA based sellers. Really helps with shipping costs.

You are in luck, I have exactly 15 feet of this stuff with me.
It’s RED. One piece.
If you want it, $20 plus whatever Canada post will charge in a bubble wrap envelope.
Trust me, Red looks way cooler than what you imagine.
I ordered it for a friend, but he ended up selling his car.

PM me if you are interested.
Best Regards,
Bash Shah

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by BashShah

I live really close to USA border in Surrey BC and have a mail box there for USA based sellers. Really helps with shipping costs.

You are in luck, I have exactly 15 feet of this stuff with me.
It’s RED. One piece.
If you want it, $20 plus whatever Canada post will charge in a bubble wrap envelope.
Trust me, Red looks way cooler than what you imagine.
I ordered it for a friend, but he ended up selling his car.

PM me if you are interested.
Best Regards,
Bash Shah

Ah okok, I have one as well but it's 1.5 hour away, only use that big items!


Perfect I'll buy it, red is the color I wanted as well. I will PM you!

[mrxdoe]

Thank you again for this tip, hard part was not tearing up my hands and getting that wire through.

[Connors N54-N55]

Wait a minute, so you used a piece of conductor (wire like for houses?) to bend it perfectly to the nipple where the line needs to meet the turbo? Cause if that works, my man your brain is huge

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by Connors N54-N55

Wait a minute, so you used a piece of conductor (wire like for houses?) to bend it perfectly to the nipple where the line needs to meet the turbo? Cause if that works, my man your brain is huge

yup.
If you enter from the front, then there is not much bending to it.
maybe a slight curve.
pretty much a direct shot.

but make sure you cut your vacuum like before hand so it is not too long of short.
you left hand will guide the coper wire into the actuator nipple, then just drop your vacuum like on it, and then again with the left hand, just push it in.
once in, just take out the cooper wire....your done.

[GSB]

Thanks for this idea and the recommendations on silicone hose. It's inspired me to replace all of my vacuum lines preemptively. Hoses are on the way...