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      10-22-2016, 11:21 PM   #4973
Hades777
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Originally Posted by MannySingh View Post
You can break your driveshaft i believe from launching to hard.
They why the hell would they set it to 5k from factory lol, stupid. I've been playing with it a little and got it so it launches nicely from around 3k
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      10-24-2016, 10:37 AM   #4974
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Launching is 5k is okay. If BMW programmed it then it can be done as long as you're stock. Just don't launch it with wheel hop at the track, then you risk breaking drive-train components.
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      10-25-2016, 01:29 PM   #4975
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Another potentially dumb question. So I'm running Cobb stage 1 sport ST map. Stage 1 aggressive map is for us 93 octane; here in Canada, we have 94 octane but I heard that it's equivalent to us 91? Is this true?
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      10-26-2016, 11:14 AM   #4976
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Hi gents,

Please don't shoot me as I did search the forums extensively before posting, but I wanted to know if anyone here is running a 265/30/19 rears and 235/35/19 fronts with Continental DWS06 tires. I was wondering if anyone has the same exact setup and is running wheel spacers. I've read that 10 mm is safe in the back without rubbing. I do not want to roll my fenders and I don't have any drop and I am not planning on dropping the car. If anyone could weigh in and help a brotha out, I'll love you forever. I know that our cars rub in the front (especially with the 235s) because of the oil cooler on one side and the extra radiator on the other side when turned all the way. I already do slightly on one side when turned all the way to lock but that doesn't bother me. What is safe for me to run with my setup front/back without rubbing but still with the nice flush look? Thank you very much in advance! Not all heroes wear capes!
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      10-26-2016, 05:58 PM   #4977
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Originally Posted by viperx100 View Post
Hi gents,

Please don't shoot me as I did search the forums extensively before posting, but I wanted to know if anyone here is running a 265/30/19 rears and 235/35/19 fronts with Continental DWS06 tires. I was wondering if anyone has the same exact setup and is running wheel spacers. I've read that 10 mm is safe in the back without rubbing. I do not want to roll my fenders and I don't have any drop and I am not planning on dropping the car. If anyone could weigh in and help a brotha out, I'll love you forever. I know that our cars rub in the front (especially with the 235s) because of the oil cooler on one side and the extra radiator on the other side when turned all the way. I already do slightly on one side when turned all the way to lock but that doesn't bother me. What is safe for me to run with my setup front/back without rubbing but still with the nice flush look? Thank you very much in advance! Not all heroes wear capes!
I'm running that setup but with Falken's. I tried a 15mm spacer in the back but it rubbed waaaaay too much; any small bump. I'm not sure about 10mm, might be less. My fronts are rubbing when wheel fully turned and mostly when I'm reversing, something I can live with tho
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      10-26-2016, 10:06 PM   #4978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hades777 View Post
I'm running that setup but with Falken's. I tried a 15mm spacer in the back but it rubbed waaaaay too much; any small bump. I'm not sure about 10mm, might be less. My fronts are rubbing when wheel fully turned and mostly when I'm reversing, something I can live with tho
So do you also run 15mm in the front as well?
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      10-26-2016, 10:22 PM   #4979
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Originally Posted by viperx100 View Post
So do you also run 15mm in the front as well?
Nah, I'm no spacers now. Looked unreal with the 15mm in the back but just wasn't worth the rubbing all the time. Guess my point is, 15mm rubbed insanely in the back so 10mm might rub a little
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      10-26-2016, 10:23 PM   #4980
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I gotcha. Thanks for the feedback!
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      10-27-2016, 09:14 AM   #4981
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Any spacers on the rear will make it rub. I have Michelin PSS stock size 255/30/19 tries on the back and it rubs on major bumps or dips with what I believe is a 15mm spacer.
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      10-27-2016, 03:12 PM   #4982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viperx100 View Post
Hi gents,

Please don't shoot me as I did search the forums extensively before posting, but I wanted to know if anyone here is running a 265/30/19 rears and 235/35/19 fronts with Continental DWS06 tires. I was wondering if anyone has the same exact setup and is running wheel spacers. I've read that 10 mm is safe in the back without rubbing. I do not want to roll my fenders and I don't have any drop and I am not planning on dropping the car. If anyone could weigh in and help a brotha out, I'll love you forever. I know that our cars rub in the front (especially with the 235s) because of the oil cooler on one side and the extra radiator on the other side when turned all the way. I already do slightly on one side when turned all the way to lock but that doesn't bother me. What is safe for me to run with my setup front/back without rubbing but still with the nice flush look? Thank you very much in advance! Not all heroes wear capes!
I'm running this exact setup on Eibach Prokits with 12mm front and back. No rubbing in the rear. The front left side only rubs when reversing out with the wheel turned all the way. I'm very happy and it looks much better. I kinda wanna try 15mm.
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      10-27-2016, 03:13 PM   #4983
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Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg View Post
I'm running this exact setup on Eibach Prokits with 12mm front and back. No rubbing in the rear. The front left side only rubs when reversing out with the wheel turned all the way. I'm very happy and it looks much better. I kinda wanna try 15mm.
So you have a drop and it still doesn't rub with the 12mm in the back? Did you have to roll your fenders?
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      10-27-2016, 06:01 PM   #4984
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So you have a drop and it still doesn't rub with the 12mm in the back? Did you have to roll your fenders?
Yeah, but prokits are a mild drop. The front gap is gone which is all I cared about. No rubbing and no fenders rolled.
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      10-28-2016, 09:22 PM   #4985
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Okay sort of noob tuning question, but I have read that the jb4 isn't good for the DCT...But would it be safe to do the MHD flash for the the DCT, set the boost to stock and then use the JB4 for its features and boost? or MHD all the way?
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      10-31-2016, 06:01 PM   #4986
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2011 BMW 335IS  [0.00]
Anybody want Hexon rr550 turbos? I have a set for sale. Has all the rr600 upgrades. Less than 2000 miles on them. Excellent condition! 2200 shipped. Pm if interested.
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      10-31-2016, 09:25 PM   #4987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by viperx100 View Post
So you have a drop and it still doesn't rub with the 12mm in the back? Did you have to roll your fenders?
Yeah, but prokits are a mild drop. The front gap is gone which is all I cared about. No rubbing and no fenders rolled.
I run 15mm on the front and 10 on the rear on
18s dropped! No rubbing whatsoever. Knock on wood lol [IMG][/IMG]
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2011 335IS Alpine White|Coral Red|DCT|BuraQ E60 Tune|DCI|VRSF 3" DownPipes| ER ChargePipe w/ HKS SSQV BOV|VRSF 7" FMIC|RB PCV| BMS Oil Catch Can|NGK 5992|AQUAMIST HFS-4 w/Twin Methanol Tank|Custom Exhaust| ST Coilovers| and a METAL FOOT
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      11-01-2016, 08:53 AM   #4988
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^Try that with 19's
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      11-02-2016, 05:56 PM   #4989
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This is how it looks under the DCT shift knob/cover, can anyone show/teach me how to put it into neutral with now power? SA wasn't sure. and no videos on youtube.

So my 335is is a DCT and it has no power. When I put the key in no dings or anything, When I opened the door the window wont go up or down. It is completely dead. I jumped it for 10 minutes and nothing happened. But when I was taking off the jumper cables, I took them off the car that was giving me the jump and they touched accidentally(I didnt think the bmw had power and was being careless) and I got a spark from the cables. So from that I am assuming my battery is good and has power but its just not delivering it to my car.
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      11-02-2016, 06:35 PM   #4990
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My new car already hit it ...
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      11-02-2016, 06:46 PM   #4991
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My new car already hit it ...
I think those black marks can be scrubbed out
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      11-02-2016, 08:17 PM   #4992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMOEW View Post
I run 15mm on the front and 10 on the rear on
18s dropped! No rubbing whatsoever. Knock on wood lol [IMG][/IMG]
I'm on 19's though, 12 up front is max imo. Rear's i'm at 12 and no rubbing.
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      11-03-2016, 08:22 AM   #4993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MannySingh View Post


This is how it looks under the DCT shift knob/cover, can anyone show/teach me how to put it into neutral with now power? SA wasn't sure. and no videos on youtube.

So my 335is is a DCT and it has no power. When I put the key in no dings or anything, When I opened the door the window wont go up or down. It is completely dead. I jumped it for 10 minutes and nothing happened. But when I was taking off the jumper cables, I took them off the car that was giving me the jump and they touched accidentally(I didnt think the bmw had power and was being careless) and I got a spark from the cables. So from that I am assuming my battery is good and has power but its just not delivering it to my car.

There has to be a background story to this. Why did the power suddenly get cut to the car? Were you trying to do something? Flash it?

And if no power is going I would check fuses first.
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      11-03-2016, 11:17 AM   #4994
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There has to be a background story to this. Why did the power suddenly get cut to the car? Were you trying to do something? Flash it?

And if no power is going I would check fuses first.
I commuted 1 hour, Parked the car, came back and turned it on 10 minutes later it was completely dead. Got it towed to the dealer. Didn't know how to get it into neutral at the time without power, so he sorta had to drag it with these plastic things under the wheels. And the dealer replaced the negative wire and said the battery was sliding around in the back and put these foam blocks in the open area to prevent the battery from moving around.
-So now its all good. Car is driving how it should
-3 days later I got to press the unlock button on my keyfob. Nothing happens. I thought "okay,I just had the battery issue fixed maybe its just the key fob", so I take out the key from the fob and manually unlock it. I noticed that the window didn't go down. Got on the phone with the dealership, asked them what the f*ck they fixed and got it towed again last night.
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