[Lukey335i]

Sorry to resurrect a old thread, but I change all my injectors today to the new bmw part number and coded them, the car had recently had two vanos and plugs, and since the injectors there is almost no stumble at all. It's so much better now, anyone who had a problem and has black plugs get those injectors changed.

[Myfirstbimma]

mine was the breather valve

[mimik]

Further to my earlier post last month in June, changing the injectors resolved the issue.

[AWD Addict]

Been running Mobil 93 for over a month.

Hasn't been that bad, but yesterday had some rough idle.

[shawntech]

Originally Posted by Myfirstbimma

mine was the breather valve

PCV or flapper at back of manifold?

[jdoom10]

Originally Posted by R.G.

Drove to Cali from Nevada this weekend. Stopped and filled up at a chevron in Baker. Got to LA and when I woke up the next morning car was stumbling BADLY and threw a CEL on a cylinder 5 misfire. I'm confident the gas has something to do with it. I use Chevron occasionally in Nevada and never had this problem but I'm sure something was up with that stations gas.
I know it sounds crazy but try using a different gas station then you normally do. Worth a try considering all the other effort

Edit: Also worth noting is that thru that entire tank of gas I was having idle problems even after oil temps where at 240
Since going thru that tank and filling up at the Shell I normally do idle problems went away

I filled my car at chevron yesterday. Next thing you know when I drove the car this morning and at a stoplight. My rpms kept going up and down from 500-800. I am praying its just the fuel.

[Ufamizm]

Originally Posted by jdoom10

I filled my car at chevron yesterday. Next thing you know when I drove the car this morning and at a stoplight. My rpms kept going up and down from 500-800. I am praying its just the fuel.

Same exact thing for me. Plugs have 3k on them but im gonna pull one to make sure. Has your car had a walnut Blast? i had one at 60k (sitting on 84k) so i might get another soon.

[aeturbo]

Originally Posted by masghar

I had the same problem for past few days and I just opened all the coils and put silicone (avail at advanced auto in small pouches) at the boot ends and installed them back. No more rough idling and loss of power.

What he said^ I've gotten them from time to time on my E92. Did walnut blast, new coils, plugs etc. A full throttle run usually clears it up...
But I have a theory. On my E36's, I would get misfires from time to time. Especially one time after changing plugs. I notice a lot of people saying the same with their E90's(misfires after changing plugs). What I found was the coil packs were leaking spark to the cyl head that is very close to the coil. When you pull coils, somehow you disturb the electrical insulation. Just look at a high power coil in the dark, and you can see the voltage leaking on occasion. By pulling each coil and cleaning it with silicone spray and then wiping it down with dielectric grease(just basically cleaning it again), along with a bit on the lip of the boot where the plug seals, would work wonders. I have not tried this on my E92 yet. But plan on it next plug change, or sooner if the misfires become too much. Not saying that this is a fix-all by any means. If you have a bad injector leaking, you need that fixed! But I really think there is something to this. I know for fact that this was the case on my E36's. Verified on both I owned. For whatever reason, the coils would leak to the cyl head. And keep in mind, the n54 has an even smaller hole for the coil, ie. less distance between coil and metal cylinder head to short out. Not guaranteeing this by any means, but certainly something cheap and easy to try.

[Spineless]

I have a 2009 335i e90. It has 95k miles on it and I just had the turbos and the low pressure fuel sensor replaced. The turbo replacement was for the clacking wastegate issue, and the low pressure fuel sensor was to address the rough idle.

Since getting the car back, I have still been experiencing a rough idle when cold, and now I am experiencing frequent hesitation when accelerating and a huge drop in gas mileage. I was averaging 19mpg, since getting it back it sits at 15mpg. It's been a few weeks now since the service. I can actually see the fuel level go down anytime I try to accelerate hard and the resulting acceleration is mediocre.

[litxus]

Originally Posted by Spineless

I have a 2009 335i e90. It has 95k miles on it and I just had the turbos and the low pressure fuel sensor replaced. The turbo replacement was for the clacking wastewater issue, and the low pressure fuel sensor was to address the rough idle.

Since getting the car back, I have still been experiencing a rough idle when cold, and now I am experiencing frequent hesitation when accelerating and a huge drop in gas mileage. I was averaging 19mpg, since getting it back it sits at 15mpg. It's been a few weeks now since the service. I can actually see the fuel level go down anytime I try to accelerate hard and the resulting acceleration is mediocre.

Your best approach is probably plugs, coils and then injectors. I have 110k on my 09 335i and that was the steps I took to resolve occasional limp mode and roughness / hesitation when cold.

[BQTuning]

I didn't read through the entire thread, so here is my advice. Pull your MAP(on the intake manifold) and TMAP(on charger pipe) sensors and clean them if you haven't already. They usually get gunked up with oil after a period of time.

[335i-boy]

Originally Posted by BuraQ

I didn't read through the entire thread, so here is my advice. Pull your MAP(on the intake manifold) and TMAP(on charger pipe) sensors and clean them if you haven't already. They usually get gunked up with oil after a period of time.

What would the cleaning process of the MAP TMAP sensors be?

Would you just spray with carby cleaner and let dry?

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by 335i-boy

What would the cleaning process of the MAP TMAP sensors be?

Would you just spray with carby cleaner and let dry?

Spray with mass air flow sensor (MAF) cleaner and let dry.

[335i-boy]

Thanks man.

The MAP TMAP sensors do well to function at all with all the oil that's present in the CP and then manifold. I'm going to pull off the DCIs this week to clean. Will pull out the sensors and give them a clean while I am it.

[itlynstalyn]

Having the same issue, if I get on it too hard it throws a code and starts stumbling. Going to replace my plugs first as I think they might be relatively old. Any other thoughts?

[jqiallnatural]

Originally Posted by M3 Eater

I have jb4, just reset all the adaptions except throttle as its a bitch sometimes to do right. I reset the ECU and reflashed jb4's firmware. Car runs very strong but when warm I can feel small misses in the seat and the steering wheel. Its downright rough idle. I have an intake as well and was wondering if that might affect the idle. The tune and the ECU should adapt and the car should be running smooth. Just changed all the plugs and resat the coils, replacing one bad coil. Maybe another coil or two are on their way out?

I had oil leaking from the oil cap and it got on one of the coils and ruined it( I think). Becuase I have a catchcan, I paid for the parts as it was messing up the crankcase pressure and making the oil spill over so.... not sure what to do next.. Car is running so good until its time to sit at a light or something.

do you know where I can download the jb4 software and even update the chip?
thank you

[pobudz]

Originally Posted by Lukey335i

Sorry to resurrect a old thread, but I change all my injectors today to the new bmw part number and coded them, the car had recently had two vanos and plugs, and since the injectors there is almost no stumble at all. It's so much better now, anyone who had a problem and has black plugs get those injectors changed.

I was going to say... pretty much identical scenario to mine. Injectors were the fix as well. BMW did all the things except injectors leading up to it, including a walnut blast. You would think they are still in denial about the common issues with these cars...

[lemonpark]

just started having the same issue after changing out my 2 pre cat O2 sensors and installing BOV.

I changed the O2 sensors cos I was getting O2 sensor codes and my JB4 kept jumping to map4 every single time I went WOT and past 4.5-5k rpm. I thought that changing O2 sensors would fix this issue and that my car would be back to full boost again, but NO...

change out everything and start the car and its idling really rough and jumping RPM's between 400-800 for about a minute or so then would rev to 1000+ and shake the car quite violently. I thought it was because we reset all the adaptations and also disconnected the battery for a while before we started her up, so we let it sit for a while and took her for a drive and it drove fine, just when stopped it would shake and stumble. Car also felt like it misfired after a few good runs through 2nd and 3rd. (oh and it's still jumping to Map4, apparently the JB4 thinks it's overboosting)

I havent driven the car since I took it back from my friends workshop and I'm taking it in again tomorrow to have a play around and run some logs.

Also to point out, i NEVER EVER had this problem before, idle was always smooth and never shook the car or anything and this only happened after changing out O2 sensors (only problem I had before was my JB4 jumping maps) One other thing is that after deleting all the codes from the car with an Autologic the car runs smooth as silk and will even hold the boost and won't change JB4 maps. Runs PERFECT. But as soon as I shut her down and start her up again I have the same issue... -___-

I've also had spark plugs replaced about 5k km's ago along with one coil. Had a service at the same time as well.

this has me thinking its a software issue and nothing to do with hardware, if it was hardware related the car shouldn't be able to run completely fine right?

please help!! I don't want to go around spending money for nothing im thinking of selling the car now too because of too many headaches... sigh*

[chris the man]

Originally Posted by BuraQ

I didn't read through the entire thread, so here is my advice. Pull your MAP(on the intake manifold) and TMAP(on charger pipe) sensors and clean them if you haven't already. They usually get gunked up with oil after a period of time.

Has anyone had luck with this?

[BQTuning]

Originally Posted by chris the man

Has anyone had luck with this?

Not that I am aware of bits its a good start to get it out of the way

[paraplan]

Having the same saga with going after rough idle fix. This is what was done so far:
1) replaced spark plugs
2) walnut shell blasting of intake valves
3) replaced all 6 coils
4) replaced battery
5) replaced all 6 injectors (some appeared to be leaky)
6) replaced leaky valve cover gasket: it was leaking into injector's #5 and #6 bay. Old injectors were all covered with oil when I pulled them out.
7) replaced 6 fuel rails (going after fuel smell, probably the real cause was a leaky injector and not rails)
8) cleaned MAP and TMAP sensors
9) HPFP was replaced aroung 45K (now the car has 91k)
*UPDATE*
10) replaced *all* vacuum lines (including those that are attached to both turbos waste gates)

Rough idle is still there, however I do see some significant improvement in the way engine sounds now. However jerkiness is still there, no codes or warning lights. I'm not sure what to do at this point. Some people suggest replacing throttle block, but now it feels like trying to move in the dark just wasting $. I have BT and INPA cables and wonder if some parameter diagnostics could be used to find the root cause.
Does anyone have any idea which direction to move at this point?

[Scrippy]

O2's control air fuel bro. Well not directly but malfunctioning O2's will affect it. Cats? Exhaust status?