[parapaul]

The fact all the values are green is a good indication

I think 1000 miles is a bit much, but definitely 2-300 to scrub off the release agent.

If you're in a pre-LCI car, set your pressures 0.1 bar ABOVE what's on the door sticker.

[carbonSI]

Originally Posted by parapaul

The fact all the values are green is a good indication

I think 1000 miles is a bit much, but definitely 2-300 to scrub off the release agent.

If you're in a pre-LCI car, set your pressures 0.1 bar ABOVE what's on the door sticker.

Yeah i know clutching at straws lol. well the tyres are on 250 so have to wait and see. im on 36 f & 38 r. Ive always felt underneath the issues theres a great handling car. when i took it to sytner last time they said its pulling to the left and has heavy steering. they advise i have kds. those results are from chemix. noticed on the invoice 2 months previous which was for steering wheel off centre that sytner had done:

Electronic chassis measurement with height
fr axle (track) adjt-kds

notice kds mentioned but then wanted to do another kds for £280 when it went in last time?????

[BGM]

shop around for a KDS, many place will just charge you a flat rate..

i got it done in Swansea once for £100.. and i think others have had it done cheaper..

[carbonSI]

Ive just had kds done see results on page . are you saying i should try another place? Sometimes wish id just bought a mk5 gti lol.

[BGM]

sorry, i thought you were having a groan that the dealer wanted to rob you of another £280

Originally Posted by carbonSI

notice kds mentioned but then wanted to do another kds for £280 when it went in last time?????

my mistake.

[carbonSI]

No probs mate lol

[doughboy]

Originally Posted by carbonSI

Please can someone take a look at the attached kds read out for my car. My father reckons theres nothing wrong with it and il have to wait at least 1000 miles for the falken to bed in.

Carbon,

Looking at those you have very little rear toe in (which will make the car more twitchy).

I had mine set up a Car Planet Racing in Warrington, we set my rear toe-in to 0.05' (down from factory 0.20') which made it the same as the M3 settings (M3 is 0.05' toe-in front and rear)

It livened up my car tremendously, making it much quicker turning and more sensitive to steering inputs.

Your rear toe-in is 0.04' and 0.06' which, although in spec (apparently) is right at the twitchy end of the scale IMO.

I'll dig out my alignment report to see if the spec figures are the same as yours (I have a 2009 E91 M sport)

[zltm089]

Originally Posted by doughboy

Carbon,

Looking at those you have very little rear toe in (which will make the car more twitchy).

I had mine set up a Car Planet Racing in Warrington, we set my rear toe-in to 0.05' (down from factory 0.20') which made it the same as the M3 settings (M3 is 0.05' toe-in front and rear)

It livened up my car tremendously, making it much quicker turning and more sensitive to steering inputs.

Your rear toe-in is 0.04' and 0.06' which, although in spec (apparently) is right at the twitchy end of the scale IMO.

I'll dig out my alignment report to see if the spec figures are the same as yours (I have a 2009 E91 M sport)

would be quite interesting to see your one Mike....will the spec be the same for the e92?

[carbonSI]

Originally Posted by doughboy

Carbon,

Looking at those you have very little rear toe in (which will make the car more twitchy).

I had mine set up a Car Planet Racing in Warrington, we set my rear toe-in to 0.05' (down from factory 0.20') which made it the same as the M3 settings (M3 is 0.05' toe-in front and rear)

It livened up my car tremendously, making it much quicker turning and more sensitive to steering inputs.

Your rear toe-in is 0.04' and 0.06' which, although in spec (apparently) is right at the twitchy end of the scale IMO.

I'll dig out my alignment report to see if the spec figures are the same as yours (I have a 2009 E91 M sport)

ah right i see so the rears might be pointing slightly out too much. the only things that
worry me is that other si owners ive messaged say that theres is fine and i presume theres wud be within spec

[doughboy]

Being 'in spec' and being 'spot on' are two different things. The ranges on those Chemix figures are HUGE and twice the range on the machine I used at CPR.

The model name on my report is "E91 Low ride sports, 08 on LCI", ranges are much tighter than yours:

Front toe range: 0.05' to 0.09' (i.e mid point 0.07')
Rear toe range: 0.07' to 0.11' (i.e. mid point 0.09')

The guys at Car Planet Racing always set the car at EXACTLY in the centre of the spec band, not just somewhere in the range.

If you are near the edge of tolerance bands, especially in opposite directions, the effects will be quite noticeable, but still 'in spec' to BMW etc.

[carbonSI]

Originally Posted by doughboy

Being 'in spec' and being 'spot on' are two different things. The ranges on those Chemix figures are HUGE and twice the range on the machine I used at CPR.

The model name on my report is "E91 Low ride sports, 08 on LCI", ranges are much tighter than yours:

Front toe range: 0.05' to 0.09' (i.e mid point 0.07')
Rear toe range: 0.07' to 0.11' (i.e. mid point 0.09')

The guys at Car Planet Racing always set the car at EXACTLY in the centre of the spec band, not just somewhere in the range.

If you are near the edge of tolerance bands, especially in opposite directions, the effects will be quite noticeable, but still 'in spec' to BMW etc.

Thanks doughboh for the info. Would never of realised that. I want my car properly setup,read that chemix use hunter machines but bmw use the hunter kds2 hawk eye witj special bmw software. Maybe i should bight the bullett and go to the stealer unless someone knows of a bmw tuner in the west mids region??

[doughboy]

Si,

The Chemix Hunter machine is fine - it's the operator that makes all the difference.

Did they adjust your car or just take readings as-is? The centre/ideal figures between mine and your chart were similar, so the 'ideal' spec is almost the same, but the tolerances were much wider on your chart and they've left them pretty wide of the mark.

Usually you'll pay extra labour to make adjustments, so its up to you if you want to leave it just 'in spec' or do you want them to adjust it to be bang on? I used a Hunter place once in Manchester, and they wanted £50 to check plus £50 for adjustment if necessary.

If they've adjusted it but left it so wide of the centre figures, then they've been a bit lazy IMO.

[carbonSI]

Originally Posted by doughboy

Si,

The Chemix Hunter machine is fine - it's the operator that makes all the difference.

Did they adjust your car or just take readings as-is? The centre/ideal figures between mine and your chart were similar, so the 'ideal' spec is almost the same, but the tolerances were much wider on your chart and they've left them pretty wide of the mark.

Usually you'll pay extra labour to make adjustments, so its up to you if you want to leave it just 'in spec' or do you want them to adjust it to be bang on? I used a Hunter place once in Manchester, and they wanted £50 to check plus £50 for adjustment if necessary.

If they've adjusted it but left it so wide of the centre figures, then they've been a bit lazy IMO.

Hi doughboy

They weighted it and took the reading for £15. The chap then said its within spec and doesnt need adjusting. seems like he didnt really know what he was doing??

Just phoned sytner and learnt they did do a full alignment in april but then in june advised i get it done again. seems that even bmw cant fix it. but then doughboy reckons my settings arent spot on so think i shud get it alighned again at an indy.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by doughboy

Being 'in spec' and being 'spot on' are two different things.

...

If you are near the edge of tolerance bands, especially in opposite directions, the effects will be quite noticeable, but still 'in spec' to BMW etc.

Totally agree, in spec' can still mean a car that doesn't run straight and true.

I'd also want to see a 0.0 on the thrust angle. For me an alignment where that dimension is off centre even by the smallest amount, isn't a good alignment. The rear must be true to get a car running straight, without a side to side bias. Any rear error will soon show itself across different and mixed road cambers.

Plus, even if a print out looks very good but the car doesn't run true, there is still something adrift and may need revisiting.

HighlandPete

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by carbonSI

Just phoned sytner and learnt they did do a full alignment in april but then in june advised i get it done again.

Why did they say it needed another, was it the way it drives?

HighlandPete

[carbonSI]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

Why did they say it needed another, was it the way it drives?

HighlandPete

Yes HighlandPete, it went originally in April to have the steering wheel put straight, this is when sytner did a full alignment (just said kds fr axle adjust with height on paperwork). I then took the car back in june time saying the steering still feels slack/free play possibly pump??They said that it was fine but when driving it pulls to the left and your front wheels are buckled (recommended i have full alignment £280, which they already did few months previous!!)

I then had chemix do an alignment (no issue, said ditch run flats). Then i changed to non rfts thinking that would solve the issue but it still seems to wander, slack steering. Got no confidence in it, although ride with falkens is much improved.

[phil200tdi]

Sounds like a real expert/specialist is required. Ive heard only good things about wheels in motion in Chesham, Bucks:

http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/

I can't see where you are (iPhone app), but this is where I'd go!!

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by phil200tdi

Sounds like a real expert/specialist is required. Ive heard only good things about wheels in motion in Chesham, Bucks:

http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/

carbon SI

I agree that you probably need a bit more than a 'to the book' alignment, you need someone like Tony Bones (WIM) who will look laterally at your problem, and tune the geometry to solve your issues. May be something very simple, like toe settings.

I had the loose feel on RFTs, and thought the steering was suspect, both my dealer and I inspected the front suspension and steering parts, could find nothing wrong. I even suspected the steering rack was faulty. The garage knew the steering feeling was wrong and did tweak the front toe settings, which on RFTs didn't completely eliminate it. But once on to normal rubber the car became directionally precise again. And has stayed that way on different sets of tyres. So it could be just the subtle changes that sort the issue.

HighlandPete

[carbonSI]

Thanks to all the info people have provided its been a great insight to my issue. Think il stop posting on this thread for now while i look into a specialist/tuner to sort the chassis problem. Will post the results!

[carbonSI]

Back again lol

Just waiting for a company in warwickshire called centre gravity to come back to me on some prices for setting the car up.

In the mean time, was reading a few other forums and they reckon after 50k (mines 59k) the bushes are knackered and need replacing. How much would an indy charge to replace, would guess the real chunk would be labour as the parts are cheap...

Anyone replaced these parts?

[carbonSI]

Anyone had to replace these parts on an e90 with around 60k on the clock??

[p1tse]

Kds is?