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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Help guys...doors wont unlock



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      10-27-2009, 11:56 PM   #1
roozie2001
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Help guys...doors wont unlock

ok so i have comfort access. My doors wont unlock with the CA, the keyfob or even the unlock button the dash. They wont even unlock when i pull the door handle on the outside. The only way i got in my car was to hold the Unlock button on the keyfob so my windows would roll down so i had to DUKES OF HAZARD it in my car. The only way i got out was to roll the window down and Take the physical key out of the keyfob and unlock it manually.

Has anyone else experienced this??

Any suggestions other than taking it to the stealership??

Thanks in advance.
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      10-28-2009, 12:07 AM   #2
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This happened on my girlfriends 325i not too long ago. Turned out being just a blown fuse.
I know you have a different car, but check your fuses just in case.

Edit: Took this from this thread.
Quote:
This thread lead me to find the fuse box inside the glovebox and check fuses 56 & 57. Only one was blown. Replaced that 15A fuse, then RESTARTED engine and the centralized locking mechanism and the keyfob both worked like new. There is a little piece of paper in the fusebox door that shows the 5 different fused related to the door locks.
If its not a fuse, at least you ruled that out.
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      10-28-2009, 12:24 AM   #3
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thanks bro, im gonna check it, now i just gotta find out where the 335s fuse box is.
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      10-28-2009, 12:29 AM   #4
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I actually haven't check on my car (I just got my 335i), but I'm pretty sure its in the same place as the 325i. It should be behind the glove box.

The back of the glove box is actually removable by two quarter-turn dials on the left and right of the back "wall" of the glove box. Turn both dials and the "wall" should pull out revealing the fuses behind.
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      11-01-2009, 07:53 PM   #5
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Hey shoes thanks for your input. it was just that. Took off the back panel of glove. saw the fuse box. Diagram was easy to read. Also has what fuses go to what functions. Pulled them off one by one which is a PITA because there isnt much room to work with. I had bought a small fuse kit and tester from autozone for $7.99. The 3rd fuse was bad. Replaced it and all is well. Thanks for the help.
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      11-01-2009, 08:06 PM   #6
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No problem!
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      11-01-2009, 08:59 PM   #7
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Usually it is the 2nd fuse in from the lower left corner. They usually replace the yellow 15amp fuse with a red 20amp fuse. If it keeps blowing the fuse, or you hear buzzing sounds you will need a new actuator or two.
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      11-01-2009, 09:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roozie2001 View Post
ok so i have comfort access. My doors wont unlock with the CA, the keyfob or even the unlock button the dash. They wont even unlock when i pull the door handle on the outside. The only way i got in my car was to hold the Unlock button on the keyfob so my windows would roll down so i had to DUKES OF HAZARD it in my car. The only way i got out was to roll the window down and Take the physical key out of the keyfob and unlock it manually.

Has anyone else experienced this??

Any suggestions other than taking it to the stealership??

Thanks in advance.
First thought that comes to mind is fuse. Check central locking fuse and pull it out of the fuse panel and inspect. Should be near your glove compartment. Good luck.
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      11-01-2009, 09:15 PM   #9
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Oh crap, someone beat me to this... Anyway this happened on my E46 330ci thats how I know. BMW electronics are third rate at best. My Toyota RAV4 that costs half what I paid for the BMW has two spare fuses on dead mount in the fuse box, and it has never burned out a single one yet. Nice touch, BMW should learn from these guys.
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      11-01-2009, 09:20 PM   #10
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you might need a new actuator. this has happened to me not too long ago at the gas station. when i got home i replaced the fuse for a temporary fix and went to the stealership the next day so they could fix the actuator.
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      11-02-2009, 01:37 AM   #11
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I guess it is my turn to have this problem after my warranty expired.

I did the research and took out the #57 fuse to inspect, sure enough, it is blown. I replaced it with the spare 15A fuse and it did not solve the problem (assuming there is no up or down side of the fuse). If there anything I need to do after I replace the fuse in order for the door lock to be working again? I would like to avoid bringing it to the dealer if it is just a fuse problem.

Thanks
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      11-02-2009, 07:20 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roozie2001 View Post
ok so i have comfort access. My doors wont unlock with the CA, the keyfob or even the unlock button the dash. They wont even unlock when i pull the door handle on the outside. The only way i got in my car was to hold the Unlock button on the keyfob so my windows would roll down so i had to DUKES OF HAZARD it in my car. The only way i got out was to roll the window down and Take the physical key out of the keyfob and unlock it manually.

Has anyone else experienced this??
I had this happen on mine. Fuses don't just blow for the fun of it. Dealership said this had happened on several others. Bmw replaced all four actuators as a safety issue. Again, fuses blow for a reason.
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      11-02-2009, 10:45 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jze90 View Post
I guess it is my turn to have this problem after my warranty expired.

I did the research and took out the #57 fuse to inspect, sure enough, it is blown. I replaced it with the spare 15A fuse and it did not solve the problem (assuming there is no up or down side of the fuse). If there anything I need to do after I replace the fuse in order for the door lock to be working again? I would like to avoid bringing it to the dealer if it is just a fuse problem.

Thanks
Replace the 15 AMP with a 20 AMP. That's what I did and haven't had any problems since. The fuse replacement is actually part of the Service Bulletin for this problem. They try the 20 AMP fuse first and then if that doesn't fix it then they replace the actuator.
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      11-02-2009, 12:05 PM   #14
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Thanks guys for the quick reply. I will try the 20A method. Will BMW fix this at no charge (I am not under warranty anymore) since it is a safety issue? If not, does anyone has any idea how much it will cost?

Thanks
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04-06-2006 DIY'ed Blackline Taillight
04-08-2006 DIY'ed CF Rear Deck Spoiler
05-09-2006 DIY'ed CF Front Spoiler

--------------------------------------------
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      11-02-2009, 01:49 PM   #15
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20A fuse from any autoparts shop should be like 5 bucks for a few.
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      11-02-2009, 02:18 PM   #16
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I meant if I have problem with the actuator, will BMW covers it?
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01-09-2006 Enter Production
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01-24-2006 On Jupiter Diamond
03-01-2006 Arrived at dealership
04-06-2006 DIY'ed Blackline Taillight
04-08-2006 DIY'ed CF Rear Deck Spoiler
05-09-2006 DIY'ed CF Front Spoiler

--------------------------------------------
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