[ashmostro]

Or 17x9 which I run (16.6 pounds each!!!) either are a great option. 17 obviously runs cheaper for both the wheels and tires. But more sidewall means slightly less agility. Your call.

[cburn]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Or 17x9 which I run (16.6 pounds each!!!) either are a great option. 17 obviously runs cheaper for both the wheels and tires. But more sidewall means slightly less agility. Your call.

Hrmm. That is something to consider for sure. Less rotational mass and unsprung weight are key to handling.

Thanks for the tip man. That is probably the way to go.
Cheers,
Burn

[Mavus]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Or 17x9 which I run (16.6 pounds each!!!) either are a great option. 17 obviously runs cheaper for both the wheels and tires. But more sidewall means slightly less agility. Your call.

More sidewall = less agility?

Less unsprung weight = better agility i.e. handling, braking, acceleration. It also depends what tire type. It may impact steering feel a bit but I love Arc 8 9.5 and re-11a

[iturbo_bmw]

subscribing cuz good info! so most track days offer insurance? in case u crash your car? I was always not sure about this and didn't think normal car insurance would cover this if something happened at the track

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by Smooth 330i

More sidewall = less agility?

Less unsprung weight = better agility i.e. handling, braking, acceleration. It also depends what tire type. It may impact steering feel a bit but I love Arc 8 9.5 and re-11a

Yes. It affects steering reaction a lot because the sidewalls have to flex and "load up" before the car begins to change direction. It's noticeable when I swap between my race and street setup. The low profile trend didn't come about solely for looks.

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by cburn

Hrmm. That is something to consider for sure. Less rotational mass and unsprung weight are key to handling.

Thanks for the tip man. That is probably the way to go.
Cheers,
Burn

You bet bud. Also cheaper for running costs as the tires and mounting are less.

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by iturbo_bmw

subscribing cuz good info! so most track days offer insurance? in case u crash your car? I was always not sure about this and didn't think normal car insurance would cover this if something happened at the track

Yes, look into Lockton or OnTrackInsurance

Deductible is 20% of damage so it really only 'pays' when you incur large damage or wreck your car. For small bumps and bruises it won't be worth submitting a claim, especially since they drop you after 2 claims within x amount of time.

[IN54NITY]

Think about getting Amica Insurance?

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=841412

[CHI335]

Originally Posted by cburn

I have the weirdest boner right now.

All joking aside. I've got my lap times from last year for a baseline.
Things I know:
I need to deal with cooling. FMIC and upgraded radiator. That may not be all I need to do but it's a start.

The rear end feeling unsettled was mostly due to rear subframe bushings.

The runflats have to go. I am going to take a chance and shoot for a square setup. Currently, the car has 8.5's in the rear and 8's in the front. I think it's a safe assumption that 8.5's and sticky rubber all around would be a solid move.

Must have pads and proper fluids to hopefully avoid my braking issues from last year.

Now what I didn't mention was the extreme body roll the car has when transitioning in a few of the corners or on the sweepers. One of the instructors that was following me even commented on it. He complimented me on driving the shit out of the car but said I should really look into reducing the roll. I figured the kw v1's would help with that but perhaps I should hold off. What worries me is how much roll I had on shitty runflats. With some proper rubber on I can see that becoming even worse. kw's will lower the car slightly and stiffen things up a bit. That should reduce roll, right?

Of the things listed above it doesn't seem there is much a driver could do to make them behave any differently, except of course drive slower. But these are all stock handling characteristics of the car that I'd like to improve upon.

So if I take the "pick the low hanging fruit first approach", I should try to improve the deficiencies that are not related to my input. Does that seem like a solid plan to you?

Thanks again,
Burn

Tires and brake fluid are the only mods I did. I'm more focused on seat time (software updates) and have done well. On stock suspension and brakes I was able to pass a C63 amg (on 3 of 2 sessions). He would catch me on the straights though. I'm very surprised how well this car handles after learning more about it. My next issues is overheating. I will sometimes go into limp mode on the 3rd 20 min session. Will be adding an oil cooler first and then a fmic, if needed.

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by CHI335

Tires and brake fluid are the only mods I did. I'm more focused on seat time (software updates) and have done well. On stock suspension and brakes I was able to pass a C63 amg (on 3 of 2 sessions). He would catch me on the straights though. I'm very surprised how well this car handles after learning more about it. My next issues is overheating. I will sometimes go into limp mode on the 3rd 20 min session. Will be adding an oil cooler first and then a fmic, if needed.

Is yours the space grey e92 with Apex ARC 8 wheels and no oil cooler on Blackhawk last Tuesday?

[CHI335]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Is yours the space grey e92 with Apex ARC 8 wheels and no oil cooler on Blackhawk last Tuesday?

Yep, that was me. Still learning, but I like those short nights. That way I don't have to run 6 full session when I can barely run 3. Def need that oil cooler! You were in the midnight blue?

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by CHI335

Yep, that was me. Still learning, but I like those short nights. That way I don't have to run 6 full session when I can barely run 3. Def need that oil cooler! You were in the midnight blue?

Yep, nice to see more and more 335i on the tracks!

Definitely need that oil cooler though once you are up to speed!

[sirdaft1]

Looks like Blackhawk has a few more days coming up very shortly... June 29th full day and then SCCA Track Night on July 7th. It'd be great to have a bunch of E9x guys show up and tear around with out on the track.

http://www.tracknightinamerica.com/locations/1981666

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by sirdaft1

Looks like Blackhawk has a few more days coming up very shortly... June 29th full day and then SCCA Track Night on July 7th. It'd be great to have a bunch of E9x guys show up and tear around with out on the track.

http://www.tracknightinamerica.com/locations/1981666

I like Gingerman better They just repaved the whole track last week, so it probably has the best tarmac in the midwest right now aside from Road America.

There is an event on June 24, if weather looks good next week, I will definitely be going.

http://www.tracknightinamerica.com/e...german-raceway

Use "GINGERMAN25" as a coupon code for $25 off!

[sirdaft1]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

I like Gingerman better They just repaved the whole track last week, so it probably has the best tarmac in the midwest right now aside from Road America.

There is an event on June 24, if weather looks good next week, I will definitely be going.

http://www.tracknightinamerica.com/e...german-raceway

Use "GINGERMAN25" as a coupon code for $25 off!

Would LOVE to join but I'll be out of town that day... Ah!

[IN54NITY]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

I like Gingerman better They just repaved the whole track last week, so it probably has the best tarmac in the midwest right now aside from Road America.

There is an event on June 24, if weather looks good next week, I will definitely be going.

http://www.tracknightinamerica.com/e...german-raceway

Use "GINGERMAN25" as a coupon code for $25 off!

Thanks for posting that. Grattan repaved not too long ago either. Western Michigan is where the smooth pavement is.

[briansjacobs]

Not sure if the questions has been answered in depth or not but I think it is safe to figure about $400 per hour of track time. Plus entry fees, lodging, and meals. The cost are lower when starting out as you are not using as many consumables (tires,brakes, or fuel) but as the times go down the cost goes up. Many people when putting budgets together talk about tires and longevity and pads, rotors but forget about increased wear on items like hubs, subframes, bushings...... budget $400 per hour, you may only spend it $200 per hour at once but know that the other $200 per hour is coming later in the year all at once.

[ashmostro]

Sound advice!

[Cloud9blue]

Biggest way to cut the cost down on track days? Focus on improve your own driving instead of your car. There is no need to speed thousands for things like dedicated wheels with R compounds, adjustable coilovers, big brake kit if you can't even max out the stock car's potential.

[sirdaft1]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Biggest way to cut the cost down on track days? Focus on improve your own driving instead of your car. There is no need to speed thousands for things like dedicated wheels with R compounds, adjustable coilovers, big brake kit if you can't even max out the stock car's potential.

And another option is to purchase a track prepped vehicle with desired modifications already completed vs modding from stock. Typically these modded cars can be purchased for considerably less than a stock car + new parts + time/labor ($$$).

[chris82]

I think the last 2 events I went to I was at $700-$800 per event. That is with the event cost ($300), hotel for 2 nights, food, gas, and brake pad swap

[briansjacobs]

Originally Posted by chris82

I think the last 2 events I went to I was at $700-$800 per event. That is with the event cost ($300), hotel for 2 nights, food, gas, and brake pad swap

You are not taking into account deferred maintenance like premature wear on bushings, diff fluid, transmission fluid, brake fluid flush, tire wear...... All of these things need to be taken into account. If you are tracking often all of these fluids should be done once a year, except for brake fluid which should be done typically before every event.