[RuinE90d]

Pulled into my garage on 12/23 all was normal, went out to drive on 12/24 and car wouldn’t start. Checked battery voltage and it was good, heard no noise at starter, not even a click. Tried tapping the starter body and heard a very faint tick almost no noise. So I pulled the starter to find a big glob of grease, the tale tale sign of a failed DMF.

Today I pulled the transmission and further confirmed the expected. Notice my flywheel has a bulged area but no puncture in the sidewall. It appears the face of the flywheel is separating from the body of the flywheel. I searched and found others with similar reports with no known cause.
Now I should admit two possible contributors to the failure: 1. I removed the clutch slave proportioning valve that causes sluggish launch, 2. I’ve tracked this car for one DE weekend and I daily drive the car spiritedly (I’ve never launched it or done any burnouts though). The car has about 105k miles and was on the original clutch.

I had already decided to keep the car and want to design this problem out of the future. Searching around RA, ECS, FCP, etc “there are no SMF conversion kits due to a spline difference” in the flywheel of the 330i vs a 325/328. I attempted to count splines on pictures on RA and ECS, all three cars appear to have 22 splines so I’m confused. I should note that ECS offers a kit with a JB Racing SMF that is paired with a SAC Valeo clutch for the 330i... problem is the unsprung hub on the clutch disk. Just when all roads pointed to DMF I called the guys at BimmerWorld who tell me that there is a sprung hub clutch kit offering from Clutchmasters. So, the Clutchmasters kit and a JB Racing flywheel are on the way. I will follow up with detailed dimensions and confirm/deny fitment soon. Hopefully it will help someone else in this situation.

Note if you follow the Pelican DIY for clutch replacement you do not need to pull the exhaust as the instructions say.

[RuinE90d]

Just read in this forum that the Valeo SMF kit 835115 will work on my 330i.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1359864

This is contrary to what ECS, FCP and RA told me when I asked about the kit days ago over the phone. Now I’ve ordered the Valeo kit and planning to return the JB Racing flywheel and Clutchmasters clutch. In doing so I would save about $700. While I will occasionally track the car I’m not sure I need the faster revs from the lighter flywheel or the CM clutch. Anyone have any experience or opinion?

[tom9192]

I just noticed some grease coming out by the flywheel on my car. Not too familiar with this area of the car- Is there supposed to be any grease there? Where does it come from? What does it mean?
Thanks for your help!

[RuinE90d]

The grease you’re showing is a DMF failure unfortunately

[tom9192]

Ok to drive on it for a week or two? Or is this something that should be fixed ASAP?

[RuinE90d]

It’s probably ok to drive on for a while. The worst failure that I’ve read about included a spring coming through the side of the flywheel. That failure damaged the bell housing, carving a groove in addition to throwing grease.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=879563

On my car there was no damage but I didn’t want to risk it, so I decided to replace my clutch now.

You will most likely hear noise if damage is being done.

[tom9192]

Thanks for the info. I'm ordering the SMF conversion kit now and hopefully have it installed next week.

[tom9192]

Originally I was planning to take it to a shop but now going to just make it my weekend project. Is there anything I'll need other than the clutch/flywheel kit and the flex disc with screws/bolts? The shop quoted me ~1400 for just the labor, but they also wanted to replace various other parts. Is any of this necessary?

[RuinE90d]

Originally Posted by tom9192

Originally I was planning to take it to a shop but now going to just make it my weekend project. Is there anything I'll need other than the clutch/flywheel kit and the flex disc with screws/bolts? The shop quoted me ~1400 for just the labor, but they also wanted to replace various other parts. Is any of this necessary?

I recommend reading this procedure first and make sure you understand everything.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec..._Replacing.htm

You will also need the aluminum transmission mounting bolts for your respective vehicle. My car had a set of 5 that were aluminum. I'd check in the Real OEM website. You may also want to replace the rear main seal while you're there.

If you've not done a job like this before I'd plan for it taking most of the weekend. You probably need a T60 torx socket for the flywheel bolts and the respective socket for the Al transmission bolts. Hopefully you have or can borrow four jack stands so you can get the car all the way off the ground. I also recommend getting or borrowing a transmission jack to aid with lowering/raising the trans. Oh and you'll need a torque wrench.

What additional parts did the shop want to replace?

[tom9192]

I've got the T60 and torque wrench. Ordered 2 more jack stands, transmission jack, electric impact wrench, and long extensions for the top bolts.

Shop was looking to replace the output seal, clutch release arm/pin/spring/guide, some shifter pin/seals/bushings, and a few others(check the attached pdf in the post above for the full list).

After doing more research last night, looks like most of the stuff would be good to replace, so my plan is to visually inspect everything and then order anything that needs replacement. I'm allowing one weekend to take everything out and then order any parts I missed during the week, then put it back together the next weekend.

[RuinE90d]

Sounds like you've got a good plan. I spoke with an Indy shop today who said they always replace the pivot pin, spring and fork when they do this job, so I've ordered those too.

[tom9192]

Originally Posted by RuinE90d

Sounds like you've got a good plan. I spoke with an Indy shop today who said they always replace the pivot pin, spring and fork when they do this job, so I've ordered those too.

Ahh I was on the fence about those, but went ahead and ordered them as well

[El Cheapo Loco]

OP, please keep us posted on your progress and experience as information for the 330i is extremely scarce. Mucho gracias.

[RuinE90d]

Received my Valeo kit today, packaging could have been better as a few pieces were a little nicked up. Also beware the Valeo kit does not include a clutch disk alignment tool for some reason. Unfortunately I shipped the Clutchmasters kit back today before getting home to the Valeo kit. I should have borrowed the tool out of the CM kit and then shipped it back.

On a positive note the spline count is the same and the clutch disk is the same diameter as the OEM 330i disk (as previously confirmed in this forum). I will post additional details about the install as I proceed.

[tlow98]

Had no idea the DMFs are full of grease. Sorry to see your issues, OP.

[tom9192]

Originally Posted by RuinE90d

Received my Valeo kit today, packaging could have been better as a few pieces were a little nicked up. Also beware the Valeo kit does not include a clutch disk alignment tool for some reason. Unfortunately I shipped the Clutchmasters kit back today before getting home to the Valeo kit. I should have borrowed the tool out of the CM kit and then shipped it back.

On a positive note the spline count is the same and the clutch disk is the same diameter as the OEM 330i disk (as previously confirmed in this forum). I will post additional details about the install as I proceed.

What are the two bearings that come with the Valeo kit? One is the throw out bearing I'd assume, but what's the other one? Also, do you need a replacement pilot bearing?

[RuinE90d]

Originally Posted by tom9192

What are the two bearings that come with the Valeo kit? One is the throw out bearing I'd assume, but what's the other one? Also, do you need a replacement pilot bearing?

The kit comes with two different styles of throw out bearing, one is trash. The pilot bearing is already in the flywheel.

[RuinE90d]

Forgot to mention, I'm not sure if removal of the intake manifold is necessary, but it makes the starter and upper bell housing bolts easier to access.

As I wait for parts I research and read the forums, and decide to increase the scope of work (to prevent revisiting some of the currently exposed components). Consequently, this means I order more parts...

Updated 1/17 the repair scope included:

Clutch/flywheel:
21207626561
21207573785
I used Valeo Kit 835115 instead

Starter:
12412354701 I used a new Bosch SR0492N

Crank front and rear main seals:
11117584398 I used Mahle
11117587168 I used Febi

Oil cooler gasket:
11428637821

Intake manifold gaskets:
11617547242

Coolant pipe/hoses:
11537545890 I used aftermarket aluminum hose bib instead

I also replaced the thermoplastic pipe on top of the radiator with a similar diameter length of coolant hose and worm screw clamps.

ECS shifter bushing refresh kit:
2722946,

Oil separator and respective hoses:
11617531423
11617523931
11617522933
11157567801

Transmission Input/output/shifter seals:
23117531353
23117531360
23117531365

Transmission (non Getrag) fluid and plugs:
23117531357
MTF-LT-2 I used Febi

Front flex disk/guibo:
26117511454

Clutch fork, pivot pin and spring:
21511223328
21517570284
21517564027

Starter bolts:
12410392577

Transmission bolts:
23000392607
23001222891 (I did not replace this bolt)
23001222887 (I did not replace these bolts)

Oil cooler bolts:
11427540759
11427540763
11427540758

Intake manifold bolts:
07119903918

By the time all was said and done I broke: The plastic retaining clip on the fuel vapor return hose. So I ordered one of these in the event I have a check engine light or see the hose is not staying connected to the IM.
13907618643

I also broke the crank position plug that goes into the sensor socket, so I ordered these Incase I need to rebuild the plug. So far no engine codes though.
12527507526
61138366245
12527545852

Special tools/adhesives:

Clutch alignment tool: LUK 5517 (22 splines)

BMW primer and sealant:
83197515683
83190439030 (requires special dispenser)
83192345991

Loctite thread locker red and blue

-Torx T-60
-Inverted Torx Set up to E-20
-9/16" & 14mm sockets fit in place of some trans bolt wit E head
-Metric socket/ratchet set
-Several extensions up to 24"
-8mm, 11mm and 18mm ratcheting wrenches
-35 or 36 mm (unsure) socket for trans output seal
-1/2" Drive torque wrench 50-100 Ft-lbs
-1/4" or 3/8" Drive torque wrench In-lbs
-Flat and Phillips screw drivers
-Needle nose pliers
-Wand magnet and inspection mirror
-Pry bars
-Pick set
-Transmission or ATV Jack
-Standard floor jack and 4 jack stands
-Front and rear main seal puller/driver tools
-Headlamp and work lights

[DaanBMW]

I'm planning the same thing. I'd suggest:
- check the oil pan for leaks, even really small. it's really a good time to do it w/ clutch
- shaft Center Mount (26128615621 on mine), the guibo bushing too
- engine mounts

Question: - why starter/gaskets/hoses ? I assume some issues, not as preventative maintenance ?

[tom9192]

Originally Posted by DaanBMW

I'm planning the same thing. I'd suggest:
- check the oil pan for leaks, even really small. it's really a good time to do it w/ clutch
- shaft Center Mount (26128615621 on mine), the guibo bushing too
- engine mounts

Question: - why starter/gaskets/hoses ? I assume some issues, not as preventative maintenance ?

I think I have a slight leak from my oil pan gasket, but since its a pretty minor leak I was planning on just leaving it. Even if you have the transmission out you still have to drop the subframe to do the job properly right?

[DaanBMW]

Yes, you need the subframe dropped. But a small leak will in time develop into a bigger one AFAIK, and you're closer now to it all.

[RuinE90d]

I replaced my oil pan gasket, motor and trans mounts about 2 years ago. I recommend completely uncoupling the subframe to do the oil pan (lowering it and leaving it connected is a PITA).

Btw, I bought front and rear crankshaft main seal removal/installer tools and may be looking to resale or rent them (after this I probably won't use them again) if anyone is interested. In the past I pushed or tapped them in with whatever I could find. The caveman method ruined a few seals along the way and I don't have the time or patience this time... so I bought the tools.

As for the oil separator hoses, many of those broke upon removal of the intake manifold. Oil cooler gasket was leaking a little and starter had failed which is how I discovered the failed DMF.