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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > BMS Powerbox E90 330i write-up and install



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      12-15-2009, 02:42 AM   #1
wareagle900
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BMS Powerbox E90 330i write-up and install

I started off the day with a massive migrane headache. I left school got home and proceeded to sleep for the next 7 hours. I awoke to a doorbell and no headache. Just the fact that my migrane was gone was fantastic but the day got even better when i opened the door to find a package from psi motorsports, my powerbox was here!

I promptly ripped open the envelope to find my powerbox just as it appeared in the pictures I had seen. My first thought was of the alarming amount of wires that i had seen on first glance. It turned out later that there really weren't that many and it was no big deal. I read the enclosed paper which directed me to their website for installation instructions. I watched the jb3 install video for reference then headed out to the car to begin the install. I opted to take my entire laptop out and sit it on the engine as opposed to printing 30 pages of the pdf file.

I removed several panels and doo-dads in the engine bay and after about 15 or 20 min. finally got to the ecu. BMw obviously didn't want people tampering around with it judging by the fact that there were 8 bolts, 23 clips, and 3 pieces ofthe engine bay to remove. However, it was by any means as difficult as that sounded. After the wiring i startedit up to find no warning lights so i put everything back in place and headed to m buddy's house for some butt dyno testing.

Install Tips/instructions

I didn't take any pictures but I think the supplied pictures by burger tuning are adequate for the install.

What you will need:
1) BMS PowerBox
2) Burger Tuning Instructions either printed or on a laptop
3) small to medium sized flat head screwdriver
4) 8mm socket and ratchet
5) very small screwdriver or nail (I used a 16d nail but eyeglass screwdriver is optimal)
6) electrical tape

Install Time:
Approximately 1 to 1.5 hours

Start by first opening the hood to your car and then turn the engine off and remove the key fob. Lock the doors and close the trunk. Let the car sit for at least 10 min. to put the ecu into sleep mode. If you have comfort access, put the key fob somewhere inside your house to avoid waking the ecu during the install process. After you have done this, go back inide and watch the jb3 install video provided by burger tuning. You can find this by going to their webpage locate here: http://burgertuning.com/support.html

After reading over the instructions, return to your vehicle and prepare for the install. Start by removing the cover to the ecu area located in the top left corner of the engine bay. This is accomplished by sliding the rubber tabs out of their slots in the plastic cover. The cover will then be hel on by two clips. lift up on one of them and remove the cover by lifting up and away. There will be a washer fluid line clipped to the under side of this piece. remove it by simply pulling the clip off of the panel. Remove the panel and set aside. Next go to the right side of the vehicle and remove the plastic cover in the top right of the engine bay. This is just like the left. Slide the rubber tabs out and then the piece is held on by two clips on either side. simply lift the tabs and pull the piece up and away. You will next remove a sensor located right near where the ecu cover was located. take your nail or small screwdriver and press in the small round hole on the left of the clip. Rotate it and it should pull right out. The wire is clipped to the same piece the sensor was on. Pull the two clips off of the shroud and set the sensor out of the way.

Next, take your socket and remove the six 8mm bolts holding the hvac filter in place. Remove the filter and set aside. Now grab your flat head screwdriver. locate the plastic rail holding the battery cable in place. Using your screwdriver, push down on the clips holding it in place and pull away. This will not be removed completely from the engine bay but will be sitting right in front of where it was clipped in. Now, use your flat head screwdriver to remove the cable harness located directly behind the powerstrip you just removed. now you can remove the two 8mm machine bolts located on the far left and right sides of the cowl. (1 on each side). After that the cowl will lift right out with a little coaxing. be sure an lift the cowl out at a 45 degree angle to clear the weatherstripping.

You are now ready to remove the white plastic cover on the left to expose the ecu. The cover is held in place by two sliding plastic clips and four smaller tabs on either side. Start by sliding the clips to unlock them and use your fingers to reach under the tabs. You will now be able to gently lift the cover away and expose the ecu. Now that you have access to the ecu, locate the large black connecter directly on top of the ecu itself. this is acually two connectors. one larger one on the left and a smaller one on the right. On the left of the larger clip is a triangular handle. this is the slider that locks the clip into place. pull this slider as far as you can to the left.(about 1.5 inches)
if it does not want to come out you may have to insert your screwdriver in between the slider and the connector and gently pry outward. Be careful not to damage the connector. Once out, the connector will pull up off of the ecu. once off, you will see that the there are two subconnectors (one black and one grey) located inside the large black connector. You are going to want to remove these from the main connector. To do this, depress the small retaining clip and pull gently on the wire bundle to slide the sub-connector out. once out, out will see that there are small numbers on the left and right of either side of the sub-connector. These number correspond to the wires running across the connector. you will use these numbers to determine which wire you are to remove.

Refer to the burger tuning instructions for which wires to remove and connect

Once you have connected the correct wires, reinsert the sub-connectors into the large black connector. here comes the hardest part of the entire installation, Make sure the slider is pulled all the way out. Center the connector over the ecu where it originally was. Push down while gently wiggling the connector if neccessary. The connector will slide down over the ecu. For the last 1/4 inch you will have to push the slider back in, Upon pushing in the slider the connector will seat itself back into the ecu fully. Now repeat this process for the smaller black connector on the right side of the ecu. This proccess is identical except for the fact that you mush remove the slider itself in order to extract the sub-connectors. to do this you must depress the retaining clips on top of the smaller main black connector and pull on the slider at the same time. Now that you have installed all necessary wires, You can attach the powerbox itself to the harness. Tighten the two screws lightly with your screwdriver. Start your car and ensure that it running properly with no warning lights. If not, refer to the troubleshooting guide provided by burger tuning. If everything is running properly, reattach all covers and panels as they were before. You are now ready to enjoy your new BMS PowerBox! Remember, Full benefits will not be seen for three or four days when the transmission adapts to the new settings.

Impressions

My first impression is wow! the throttle response is lightening quick without being jumpy. The transmission does not hesitate to downshift even in drive mode. The car feels quicker and definitely pulls harder longer. Especially in the higher rpm's the engine feels like it just keeps pulling. I will update the review after a few days when the transmission has adapted.
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      12-16-2009, 08:46 PM   #2
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You've written a great review and I'm glad to hear that you are enjoying this product !!!

You'll definitely feel an increase in throttle response and overall better performance of your vehicle.
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      12-17-2009, 12:16 PM   #3
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Woo hoo, another win for 330.
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      12-18-2009, 08:18 AM   #4
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bump for the 330 guys I know a lot of you have been asking me about compatibility.

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      12-18-2009, 01:14 PM   #5
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Awesome I am glad you dot it and put it in already. That was a nice xmas present for you.
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      12-18-2009, 01:17 PM   #6
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Someone dyno this !
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      12-18-2009, 01:30 PM   #7
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It sounds like this makes a big difference in drivability more than actual HP. Don't worry about the dyno - some of the important stuff just doesn't show up there.
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      12-18-2009, 08:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaz58 View Post
It sounds like this makes a big difference in drivability more than actual HP. Don't worry about the dyno - some of the important stuff just doesn't show up there.
Yes it makes more of a difference than just pure peak HP. the entire manner of the car changes to be more aggressive and urgent about the power delivery.
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      12-19-2009, 12:23 PM   #9
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I am anxious to read a review after several weeks of driving. I drive a 2006 330xi equiped with Fujita intake. Looking for what ever I can get in addition. Just waiting to get kids educated before 335xi coupe replaces so affordable mods are great for now.
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      01-22-2010, 12:27 PM   #10
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Great review. I drive a N52 525XI and this is on the list of spring mods for sure
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      01-27-2010, 12:47 AM   #11
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I just installed mine, and wow! I'm going to get into trouble! Instant power at command, much more responsive and loves to speed shift now. I also just got a new tranny today and my muffler delete, so it's a happy day for my e90.
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      03-17-2011, 11:18 AM   #12
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Are you still happy with it? Notice any problems or issues? I am just really hesitant about putting anything in that can damage the car in any way.
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      03-17-2011, 01:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul92nyr View Post
Are you still happy with it? Notice any problems or issues? I am just really hesitant about putting anything in that can damage the car in any way.
Kinda wondering the same. Also comparing this to the AA Tune (which I believe voids the warranty as it is an ECU reprogram).
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      03-17-2011, 02:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakuum View Post
Kinda wondering the same. Also comparing this to the AA Tune (which I believe voids the warranty as it is an ECU reprogram).
Depends if the tune is detectable, you have to ask AA.
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      03-17-2011, 03:32 PM   #15
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Great writeup and review!
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