[hochinfai]

how about 2oms for base stereo with no amp??

any changed or improvment for the sound quality?

[spray]

How can you tell which setup you have? (I have a 135i, subwoofer stopped working under drivers side)

[joeyc123]

So the 8xi's can only receive a 2 ohm load from an aftermarket amp? If your planning on not getting an aftermarket amp get the sws-8's?

[kaigoss69]

Wrong post

[N54B30A]

Originally Posted by joeyc123

So the 8xi's can only receive a 2 ohm load from an aftermarket amp? If your planning on not getting an aftermarket amp get the sws-8's?

So the engineer/founder/ceo of earthquake told me he recommends the 8xi's for oem amps/bmw professional and the 8's for an aftermarket amp. Obviously 8xi's can work with some aftermarket amps.

[HeavyMetalRocker]

Originally Posted by sahyoun

So the engineer/founder/ceo of earthquake told me he recommends the 8xi's for oem amps/bmw professional and the 8's for an aftermarket amp. Obviously 8xi's can work with some aftermarket amps.

So I blew my passenger side sub and while researching found this. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124276 granted mine is an 07 and as it says on earthquakes site, certain models use the 2ohm OR the 4ohm. I know from the pdf in this post that the logic 7 system requires the 4ohm. Which is the SWS 8.

[shutterbug67]

Originally Posted by hochinfai

how about 2oms for base stereo with no amp??

any changed or improvment for the sound quality?

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but was wondering if this 8xi sub would be ok with the stock/oem Hi-Fi system/amp? Really trying to find an underseat sub improvment without having to do the aftermarket amp addition

[ProstetnikJeltz]

I only registered to this forum to inform you about the following:

Sorry for pulling this old thread out of it's grave , but:
I was working at BMW in Munich the last 11 Years as Resident Eng. and had a chance to talk to the Resident Engineer, who was supporting the L7 Amps.
LEAR is the manufacturer of the Logic7 AMP for the E6x and E9x .
He told me, that there will be absolutely no Problem in driving 2 Ohm speakers at the (Sub-)Woofer terminals.
The amplifier is a Class-D (!) and is specified to drive 2 Ohm speakers.

In the case of an shortcut, the amp is trying to reactivate the according output 10 times ( 500ms signal, 500ms off ).
After these retries, the output will be switched off and stays off, until you switch off ignition and on again. Also a DTC will be stored in the Amp.
If the Amp goes in "overheat", the power ot the outputs will be limited, if the temperature is still rising, the output will be switched off and a DTC will be stored .

So it doesn't matter if you use 2 Ohm Subs like the Earthquake XI.

[DarthyPoo]

Originally Posted by ProstetnikJeltz

I only registered to this forum to inform you about the following:

Sorry for pulling this old thread out of it's grave , but:
I was working at BMW in Munich the last 11 Years as Resident Eng. and had a chance to talk to the Resident Engineer, who was supporting the L7 Amps.
LEAR is the manufacturer of the Logic7 AMP for the E6x and E9x .
He told me, that there will be absolutely no Problem in driving 2 Ohm speakers at the (Sub-)Woofer terminals.
The amplifier is a Class-D (!) and is specified to drive 2 Ohm speakers.

In the case of an shortcut, the amp is trying to reactivate the according output 10 times ( 500ms signal, 500ms off ).
After these retries, the output will be switched off and stays off, until you switch off ignition and on again. Also a DTC will be stored in the Amp.
If the Amp goes in "overheat", the power ot the outputs will be limited, if the temperature is still rising, the output will be switched off and a DTC will be stored .

So it doesn't matter if you use 2 Ohm Subs like the Earthquake XI.

So you are saying im good to buy the EarthQuake SWS 8 XI for my 2009 328i, and operate it fine with out the amp being ruined. I have lost BOTH of my subs and i NEED a replacement. In fact im sure the drivers side wires are shot because i heard sizzling.

[ProstetnikJeltz]

As far as I can see, there is no Problem in using the XI instead of the 4 Ohm .
I'm running them in my E60 for the last two years without any problem.
Maybe it's a good idea, to measure the wires to be sure, that they have no contact to ground, before intalling the earthquakes.
It's a kind of mess to install them, but the sound is wort it.
I needed 2 hours for both speakers, but you have to replace them anyway .

Greetings from Munich
Uli

[N54B30A]

Sorry to revive this thread. I've had 2 more 335i's since this thread. All had the L7. I ran the 2ohm subs for 2 years without any problem except one time I was driving back from bimmerfest (LA to Bay Area) non stop blasting music and the radio shutoff after about 5 hours of nonstop playing. I felt the amp and it felt decently warm, nothing was burning or melted. Waited 5 min and everything worked fine. Interestingly I had the same thing happen with the stock subs in my current e92. The 2ohms work just fine, I havent been able to find a single documented case of anyones stock amp failing due to a 2ohm aftermarket sub.

[taibanl]

Originally Posted by sahyoun

Sorry to revive this thread. I've had 2 more 335i's since this thread. All had the L7. I ran the 2ohm subs for 2 years without any problem except one time I was driving back from bimmerfest (LA to Bay Area) non stop blasting music and the radio shutoff after about 5 hours of nonstop playing. I felt the amp and it felt decently warm, nothing was burning or melted. Waited 5 min and everything worked fine. Interestingly I had the same thing happen with the stock subs in my current e92. The 2ohms work just fine, I havent been able to find a single documented case of anyones stock amp failing due to a 2ohm aftermarket sub.

Its sounds very much like your L7 amp went into thermal protect mode.

[N54B30A]

Originally Posted by taibanl

Its sounds very much like your L7 amp went into thermal protect mode.

Yep, which it did with both the stock subs and the SWS in either case after 5 hours of playing.

[E93415]

Originally Posted by sahyoun

Yep, which it did with both the stock subs and the SWS in either case after 5 hours of playing.

bringing this thread back once again

I have an 07 e93. How do I know what amp and head unit I have or can I just run the sws-8xi regardless based on these new findings about 2ohm vs 4ohm irrelevance? Thanks in advance

[ctuna]

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323

bimmerfest stereo
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ighlight=ctuna
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?t=1157793
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ighlight=audio
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ighlight=audio
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ighlight=audio

Read the links

[Alki]

Went through every thread, have googled everything and am still confused as to what to do here.

I have a blown right side underseat woofer in my Logic 7 E92 system. I am looking for an aftermarket replacement (not OEM due to being burned numerous times by faulty sellers on EBAY) that will run on the OEM L7 amp.

Aftermarket speaker(s) with OEM L7 amp.

People posting in this thread say that running the 2 ohm (SWS-8xi) is okay and then it says it is not okay, then says it is okay again. I see in other threads that for my logic 7, the 4 ohm (SWS-8x) is necessary for the stock amp. I'm worried that if I buy the 4 ohm, there will be insufficient power for them to even work at all or even be heard.

I have a trunk sub taking care of the bass and I do not want to buy another amp to power underseat woofers. I'm looking for a simple aftermarket drop in replacement that doesn't cost me an arm and a leg that can be powered by the L7 amp without damaging it.

Any help will greatly be appreciated.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by Alki

Went through every thread, have googled everything and am still confused as to what to do here.

I have a blown right side underseat woofer in my Logic 7 E92 system. I am looking for an aftermarket replacement (not OEM due to being burned numerous times by faulty sellers on EBAY) that will run on the OEM L7 amp.

Aftermarket speaker(s) with OEM L7 amp.

People posting in this thread say that running the 2 ohm (SWS-8xi) is okay and then it says it is not okay, then says it is okay again. I see in other threads that for my logic 7, the 4 ohm (SWS-8x) is necessary for the stock amp. I'm worried that if I buy the 4 ohm, there will be insufficient power for them to even work at all or even be heard.

I have a trunk sub taking care of the bass and I do not want to buy another amp to power underseat woofers. I'm looking for a simple aftermarket drop in replacement that doesn't cost me an arm and a leg that can be powered by the L7 amp without damaging it.

Any help will greatly be appreciated.

Your best bet would be to use OEM woofers. I bought mine on ebay, no problem. Since you already have a trunk sub, you don't need any low bass, you just need mid bass (~ 70 - 200 Hz). The OEMs do that well. The L7 amp does not have enough power to drive earthquakes, or most other aftermarket speakers. If you go to 2 ohm you get a little more power, but plan on replacing the L7 amp because you will fry it . Also the Earthquakes suck at mid bass (what you don't want) and play down to about 40 Hz (what you also don't want because the sound waves could cancel those of the trunk sub and vice versa).

If you operate underseats and a trunk sub like you are, you will always have some cancellations because the frequencies overlap. One solution that works quite well is to use another amp, or one multi-channel amp, to also amplify the underseat OEM woofers, and at the same time separate the signal going to them, so that there is no frequency overlap. So you would split the input signal going to your current amp, which is roughly 30 - 200 Hz, at the sub amp use the low pass crossover and set it around 80Hz, and at the other amp set a high-pass crossover at 80Hz. Then 30 - 80Hz go to the subs, and 80-200Hz to the underseats. The L7 woofers can take around 100 - 150 watts when band passed like that, and they sound pretty good (good kick bass).

[Alki]

Thanks for the reply.

I'm going to continue to look for a replacement for the awful sounding right underseat woofer I guess.

The one I have right now works, but when it hits a hard line of bass, it sounds like it's going to blow up. It makes this awful sound. It's like when you overpower a speaker and it hits, but it's all distorted and awful sounding (not sure what it's called) ... ya, that sound.

Anyone know of someone selling one? I just need the speaker, not the whole assembly. Or am I limited only with ebay?

My trunk sub sounds great.

My question now is this ...

I already have a JL amp in the back powering the sub (JL Audio JX250/1 on a 12" W1v3-2) using a Technic PnP harness for my Logic 7 system. Could I get a 500/1 amp and wire it to power both the sub and the underseat woofers? Or should I just get another JX250/1 to power the underseat woofers? Can I link one amp to the other using only the PnP harness? Any suggestions?

I'm not trying to spend a lot of money here on this car (it's my daily driver). I'm going to dump a new aftermarket sound system (2 JL 12" W7's with full mid/high replacements on the new vxi amps) in my new M4 so I just want some decent sound from my daily driver E92.

[kaigoss69]

^^^ I see they are $50 on eBay. Just throw away the enclosure if you can't find one without.

The signal coming from the Technic harness is stereo. Your amp has a pass-through RCA connection ("pre-outs") and you would simply run another RCA to the new amp. The underseats will sound best in stereo so anything that makes around 75-100 watts per channel will work. Just make sure you set the high pass filter on the new amp (not low-pass) and be conservative with the gains.

[david in germany]

OH my god, I just read this thread.. Based on the email traffic from EQ I don't even think that guy at EQ even knows his products let alone BMWs... 2000w on a pair of SWS.. LOL you will be lucky not to blow them on a true 75w rms.. Dude needs to drop the crack pipe!

[N54B30A]

Originally Posted by Alki

Went through every thread, have googled everything and am still confused as to what to do here.

I have a blown right side underseat woofer in my Logic 7 E92 system. I am looking for an aftermarket replacement (not OEM due to being burned numerous times by faulty sellers on EBAY) that will run on the OEM L7 amp.

Aftermarket speaker(s) with OEM L7 amp.

People posting in this thread say that running the 2 ohm (SWS-8xi) is okay and then it says it is not okay, then says it is okay again. I see in other threads that for my logic 7, the 4 ohm (SWS-8x) is necessary for the stock amp. I'm worried that if I buy the 4 ohm, there will be insufficient power for them to even work at all or even be heard.

I have a trunk sub taking care of the bass and I do not want to buy another amp to power underseat woofers. I'm looking for a simple aftermarket drop in replacement that doesn't cost me an arm and a leg that can be powered by the L7 amp without damaging it.

Any help will greatly be appreciated.

You can use either the 8xi or the 8x. I've had 3 e92 335i's all with logic 7, ran 8xi's for years. Allegedly the l7 amp was initially intended for a 2ohm load. Either way, i've done more than enough testing for years on this setup and have not had any issues. I did have my amp go into a protection mode on the stock subs when my gains were set too high and some slight clipping was occurring. I've had several friends install these on their e9x's with no issues and I just swapped an x5m's 8ohm to a 8x 4 ohm. What most people dont know is that the impedance rating on a sub is done when the cone is at a neutral resting position. When the cone moves further away from the neutral point, the resistance drops significantly. So the stock 4ohm could very well be dropping to 0.5ohm or lower towards the peak of its excursion. The sws has a taller voice coil which mitigates this resistance drop so it may actually be less harsh on your amp.

[N54B30A]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Your best bet would be to use OEM woofers. I bought mine on ebay, no problem. Since you already have a trunk sub, you don't need any low bass, you just need mid bass (~ 70 - 200 Hz). The OEMs do that well. The L7 amp does not have enough power to drive earthquakes, or most other aftermarket speakers. If you go to 2 ohm you get a little more power, but plan on replacing the L7 amp because you will fry it . Also the Earthquakes suck at mid bass (what you don't want) and play down to about 40 Hz (what you also don't want because the sound waves could cancel those of the trunk sub and vice versa).

If you operate underseats and a trunk sub like you are, you will always have some cancellations because the frequencies overlap. One solution that works quite well is to use another amp, or one multi-channel amp, to also amplify the underseat OEM woofers, and at the same time separate the signal going to them, so that there is no frequency overlap. So you would split the input signal going to your current amp, which is roughly 30 - 200 Hz, at the sub amp use the low pass crossover and set it around 80Hz, and at the other amp set a high-pass crossover at 80Hz. Then 30 - 80Hz go to the subs, and 80-200Hz to the underseats. The L7 woofers can take around 100 - 150 watts when band passed like that, and they sound pretty good (good kick bass).

So many incorrect statements, the stock amp does have enough power to drive the 2 ohm xi's if you're running top hifi/l7. In terms of the SWS sucking at mid range, they blow the stock ones out of the water. Dropping from a 4ohm to a 2ohm increased the the entire range on all the cars I ran it on.

In terms of the Earthquakes playing down to 40 hz. The range is set by the stock amp so the stock subs are playing down there too. The frequency range of the sub should be the same, its the resonance frequency that changes when you swap to sws which might sound like they are playing at a different frequency range to the untrained ear. In terms of the phase, you dont adjust the underseats to be in phase with the trunk sub, you adjust the already-aftermarket trunk sub's phase. Setting a range of 80-200hz on the underseats would sound terrible. Yeah a trunk sub will take care of the rest but the OEM underseat enclosure does a really good job of evenly distributing the bass and actually sounds like a more natural setup.