[end3r]

This is extremely infuriating.

I've been running an ETS Chargepipe and HKS bov for well over 3000 miles now on Map 5 JB4 (roughly 14psi usually). Now, in the past week I have had the connection closest to the FMIC on the chargepipe disconnect on almost every hard pull.

I've even removed the entire chargepipe, disassembled it, thoroughly cleaned it of oil residue, and reinstalled it. After doing this the chargepipe lasted about 40 miles before disconnecting in the same spot.

What could cause this sudden issue when for the pass 3000 miles it's been fine? The only reasoning I can come up with is that, living in Arizona, it's now summer (100+ degrees consistently), perhaps the silicon coupling is melting? I would think it could withstand engine temperatures, so I'm at a loss.

My only solution I can think of at this point is an aftermarket FMIC with stainless steel piping so that I can tighten the hell out of the clamp to the chargepipe.

Has anyone else experienced this with the ETS chargepipe? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Relevant pictures included.

View post on imgur.com

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

What did you clean it with would be my first question?
Also make sure you let up some slack on the TB and make sure the T bolt clamps sits over the bead/lip on the FMIC pipe. Tighten down those T Bolt clamps pretty good. You just might not be tightening it enough. I know there is some fear when tightening down clamps to a plastic intake.

[ETS Michael]

I haven't had any customer complaints or problems. I've been running the same charge pipe on my car for over 3 years now. My guess is the clamp either wasn't tight enough or it's not clamped between the beads. Our silicone is rated at over 200psi and is it heat resistant (we hook them directly to the compressor outlets on many turbo kits). Based on clamp location it does look like your between the beads, but it's hard to tell. I may have a slightly longer coupler. send me an email michael@extremeturbosystems.com and I will get one to you.

Michael

[OpenFlash]

OP-- Use a thinner clamp. Those wide clamps don't seat between the beads and cause this problem.

[joec500]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

OP-- Use a thinner clamp. Those wide clamps don't seat between the beads and cause this problem.

2nd...Shiv fixed my CP issue by setting me up with an OEM narrower clamp. Dig up one of the OEM clamps if you still have them around. Also use some cleaner to clean off any oil residue.

[end3r]

Wow, thanks for all the quick replies!

I loosened up the throttle bottle connection a bit to give it a little more room. Also, I disconnected the clip that holds that FMIC piping and allows a little more play.

I'll grab one of the smaller clamps off my stock CP and give that a try.

[joec500]

Originally Posted by end3r

Wow, thanks for all the quick replies!

I loosened up the throttle bottle connection a bit to give it a little more room. Also, I disconnected the clip that holds that FMIC piping and allows a little more play.

I'll grab one of the smaller clamps off my stock CP and give that a try.

Make sure you also clean up the pipe to make sure it's not as slick when reconnecting.

[end3r]

Pulled out some isopropyl alcohol, degreaser, and acetone. It hadn't occurred to me to make sure the t-clamp was completely oil/grease free too. So I cleaned that up. Then I realized the gloves I had been using definitely had a good amount of oil/grease on them...

So I cleaned everything and did the install barehanded (some burns haha), then took it out for a drive.

Didn't pop off under any pulls even in 3rd gear and above. Looks to be holding for now. I ended up using the T clamp provided with the CP and not the oem one. If it pops off again I'll try the oem one.

I think a longer coupler would still be beneficial so I can reattach the fmic piping to its holding clip. Thanks for all the advice guys!

[Monster335]

I am running ETS 5" fmic and ETS chargepipe with Tial BOV for over 20,000 miles with no issues at all.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by end3r

Pulled out some isopropyl alcohol, degreaser, and acetone. It hadn't occurred to me to make sure the t-clamp was completely oil/grease free too. So I cleaned that up. Then I realized the gloves I had been using definitely had a good amount of oil/grease on them...

So I cleaned everything and did the install barehanded (some burns haha), then took it out for a drive.

Didn't pop off under any pulls even in 3rd gear and above. Looks to be holding for now. I ended up using the T clamp provided with the CP and not the oem one. If it pops off again I'll try the oem one.

I think a longer coupler would still be beneficial so I can reattach the fmic piping to its holding clip. Thanks for all the advice guys!

I think that might have helped alot. Dont forget to clean the throttle body and the silicone coupler.

Another issue that you might not think would actually be over tightening. You can over tighten the t-bolt clamp to the point the silicon starts to force it to slip off. As strange as it sounds I had a similar issue on another car. It would pop right off every day or so and did this for a few weeks. I had to keep tools in the car and hated pulling over when it happened. I decided once to tighten it down till the bolt wont go anymore and thats when I noticed after a certain point it would start to slide off (possibly because of the throttle body lip) Thats when i tighten it about half as much as i would have before and surprisingly it never came off again. It also held just fine with 17psi.

Hopefully you dont have that issue again, but as a precaution keep a set of tools in your car

[sparkyblue]

I had the same issue, first with it popping off with the throttle body. Then on the hotside intercooler.

It happened only once for the throttle body, but on the IC side it happened two or even three times a day. Finally I realized the trick was to move the clamp so its locks down tight nearly on the edge of the plastic IC piping. Theres a metal band that keeps it from bending, so I clamped it down tight and haven't had issues since.

[corbs09]

if you keep having this issue try hairspray inside the silicon couplers where it will meet the metal. Will lubricate to slide it on.. then will get sticky once you clamp it down and it heats up a little. Did that at the strip many times with my big single 1j sc300.

[end3r]

Well, status update:

Several spirited drives and a few days later, the chargepipe has stayed solid. Think we're golden for now.