[jzchen]

Originally Posted by blacksail337

if there's any way you could find out and let us i know i'd REALLY appreciate it, i would imagine a few sensors would be much cheaper than the servo motor and hopefully thats whats wrong with mine and orangedawgs cars as well,

i did a BT scan tonight and got the following codes

Transmission distribution module (transfer case)
5462:
Error actuator or increased power requirements fpr clutch
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have not been completed

Dynamic stability control DXC8 Plus - E90
5F3A:
Clutch gearbox-ECU: VG-clutch defective-clutch is open-rwd!
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

Transmission control unit
51B0:
DSC Signal not plausible: Brake pressure signal
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed

i think it's wierd that the one says the cars currently rear wheel drive when it's not

Did you try adjusting the steering angle sensor? Please try this before changing anything in the car!!! (It's worth a shot.)

[blacksail337]

No I havnt, just saw you and orangedawgs posts about that last night, thanks for providing the how to, I'll def try it

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by blacksail337

No I havnt, just saw you and orangedawgs posts about that last night, thanks for providing the how to, I'll def try it

Just in case this helps I keep a charger connected to the posts in the engine compartment. I don't start the engine when I'm running the BT tool. I just cycle the ignition on by pushing the Start/Stop button twice. (I turned off the A/C as well to save energy/electricity.)

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by jzchen

Yup, except I didn't drive the car. (In fact it happened once and I didn't even disconnect the battery. I had just gotten the car back from having the Performance Power Kit installed. The next morning it came up when I had the BT tool connected. I did the adjusting of the steering angle sensor and noted down how I did it to report here.) I had just put the car back together from retrofitting an oil cooler. It would come up whenever I started. After I adjusted the steering angle sensor the errors no longer came up.

I also noticed the front wheels spin freely when the vehicle is up. This is an interesting view about how the system works. Does anyone know for sure whether it is safe to drive the car like this/with these errors?

Yes. Pulling fuse 20 on N52s and 26 on N54s will disable ABS, DTC, DSC, EBD, AWD, and a few other systems and allow you to run in 2wd mode. The front diff is always disengaged when the engine is turned off. Pulling the fuse prevents the front diff from engaging and so you have a 2wd car.

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by *********

Yes. Pulling fuse 20 on N52s and 26 on N54s will disable ABS, DTC, DSC, EBD, AWD, and a few other systems and allow you to run in 2wd mode. The front diff is always disengaged when the engine is turned off. Pulling the fuse prevents the front diff from engaging and so you have a 2wd car.

Is that different than rwd? I mean when you tow a RWD with the rear wheels on the ground they ask you to disconnect the driveshaft to not overheat something. (They don't recommend you tow it with the rear wheels down without disconnecting the driveshaft for long distances because something will overheat if you don't.)

[blacksail337]

no luck on the steering wheel angle calibration

i pmed hfxbimmer, really hoping he can get us some part numbers or at least descriptions of which sensors they replaced on his car

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by blacksail337

no luck on the steering wheel angle calibration

i pmed hfxbimmer, really hoping he can get us some part numbers or at least descriptions of which sensors they replaced on his car

Sorry it didn't help! I could have sworn similar errors came up in my car... It is interesting to note that two of them state that "Error is not currently present"...

[orangedawg]

Okay, I tried diagnosing the error using DIS. I didn't get a chance to do a full inverstigation as I didn't have a battery charger on hand, so it was a pretty short diagnosis. Had a few errors come up:

DSC - 5F39 DSC: transfer case internal - fault not currently present
All wheel drive system B3450_8P_VTG

VTG- 53A0 VTG: No coding or faulty coding - implausible signal - fault currently present - fault would not cause a warning light
Control unit, self test B2710_VTG

When I began diagnosis of DSC, it notes that
"There may be a sporadic fault in the VTG. Continue troubleshooting VTG
The cause of this fault is not attributed to DSC control unit
Clear DSC fault memory"

It also noted that "This error may also be entered in there is/was an undervolt in the vehicle".

I didn't clear fault at this time because battery getting low. But I went next to the VTG. when I went to that module (VTG gearbox control) it said:
53A0 VTG: No coding or faulty coding
implausible signal

I didn't go further due to battery. But, it looks like i have to clear DSC fault memory first. Then maybe take it to a dealer to have them re-code VTG. I can provide screenshots, but not sure how to do that or re-size them, etc. Also, I did not have the vehicle running so not sure if that would make a difference if errors. I do note that everytime I start car, the brake, dsc, and 4x4 erros come up everytime.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by jzchen

Is that different than rwd? I mean when you tow a RWD with the rear wheels on the ground they ask you to disconnect the driveshaft to not overheat something. (They don't recommend you tow it with the rear wheels down without disconnecting the driveshaft for long distances because something will overheat if you don't.)

Yes this only pertains to xi models. The front diff dis-engages when the car is off so if you pull the fuse, the front diff does not engage.

I know on xi's if you tow the car on 2 wheels, you need to disconnect the transfer case because it can lock up.

Not sure what you are referring to about 2wd cars.

[fdriller9]

OP, try keeping your hazards on when you run the short tests.

Apparently, if you don't modules will go to sleep and your car won't communicate properly.

[blacksail337]

fdriller, yea i know about the hazards trick, i'm the one that told you about it in the headlight thread haha

orangedawg, def try that if you have trouble communicating with any modules, owen from bavtech told me it keeps the can bus open and it worked for me pulling some codes on my footwell module

ya just turn the hazards on right after you hit the start button to turn the ign on, and i believe your right to not start the car, i don't think you ever have the car running when scanning it

[blacksail337]

oh and hfxbimmer pmed me back, he's taking his car in to have those 3 sensors replaced this week and is gonna let us know which ones it was that failed and threw the codes

[orangedawg]

Only reason I was thinking of starting car and running DIS is when I read the car (with start button pushed 1x), the DSC, 4x4, etc. errors don't come up on the dash. It's only when I push button 2nd time or start car do the error lights come up on dash. It's really weird when it says on DIS (which btw, is a pretty amazing piece of software) that the VTG error won't cause a warning light

[blacksail337]

Ahh gotcha, same here my errors don't come up till startup, I just get a ! When scanning but the faults are still present. I'm not familiar with DIS, didn't know there was anything available but bavtech

[orangedawg]

DIS is the program the dealers use. I think it's called Dealer Information Service, but not sure. It's similar to INPA/NCS but you can't do any coding on it. If you also have TIS installed with DIS, it shows you how to repair. I have learned a lot of info on the transfer case from this. Such as, in order to replace servo motor, you do not need to remove transfer case. All you do is remove the connectors (electrical and vent tube), remove the bolt in the middle of the motor, and then remove the three bolts holding motor onto transfer case. To install, just do the reverse. Looks really simple.

As I understand it, though I still could be wrong, is that the servo motor receives a signal from the transfer case control unit that slip is occuring. The servo motor then operates to move a "lever arm" inside the transfer case that engages the multi-disc clutch that transfers power to front axle.

So, it could be my servo motor is bad, the control unit is bad (not sure where this is located), or the clutch pack or something else inside transfer case is bad. I'll do a bit more investigating when weather is better.

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by orangedawg

DIS is the program the dealers use. I think it's called Dealer Information Service, but not sure. It's similar to INPA/NCS but you can't do any coding on it. If you also have TIS installed with DIS, it shows you how to repair. I have learned a lot of info on the transfer case from this. Such as, in order to replace servo motor, you do not need to remove transfer case. All you do is remove the connectors (electrical and vent tube), remove the bolt in the middle of the motor, and then remove the three bolts holding motor onto transfer case. To install, just do the reverse. Looks really simple.

As I understand it, though I still could be wrong, is that the servo motor receives a signal from the transfer case control unit that slip is occuring. The servo motor then operates to move a "lever arm" inside the transfer case that engages the multi-disc clutch that transfers power to front axle.

So, it could be my servo motor is bad, the control unit is bad (not sure where this is located), or the clutch pack or something else inside transfer case is bad. I'll do a bit more investigating when weather is better.

You can code with TIS, you just need the ICOM... Don't know how much that costs...

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by blacksail337

fdriller, yea i know about the hazards trick, i'm the one that told you about it in the headlight thread haha

Haha....didn't realize it was you. My bad.

[orangedawg]

Also, you can code with DIS version 44. However, it is older and only covers up to 2006 models. So, for e90's, it will cover e90 325's and 330's. I've got an 07 328xi so it doesn't show up on DIS v44. The later versions of DIS (I'm using v57, it's the latest, I think) doesn't have the coding option. Not sure about coding under TIS, though. That is beyond my knowledge.

Anyway, hopefully this weekend I'll get a chance to reset the DSC (as noted above) and try to reset VTG errors and see what that does.

[blacksail337]

ok heard back from hfxbimmer, his dealer replaced his "speed sensor" or "propulsion sensor"

i know orangedawg has talked about there being a wheel speed sensor on each wheel that could throw the faults, but i think this is different

i searched on tischer and it looks like there's a front one and a rear one, going for around $80 a pop

it's gonna be amazing if something that cheap and hopefully easy to remove/install solves all these problems

[orangedawg]

Not sure what a propulsion sensor is, but at $80 it could be a wheel speed sensor, but not sure.

As for my situation, cleared all codes and ran DIS diagnostic again (as well as INPA). Got two codes.
One is:
DSC - 5F39 DSC: transfer case internal - fault not currently present
All wheel drive system B3450_8P_VTG

In reading in the DIS when I hooked it up to car, this is triggered when a fault is detected in the VTG and is not related to a fault in the DSC (it says to clear the code which I have done, but it keeps coming up as there is a fault in the VTG, see below).

The other error code is:
VTG- 53A0 VTG: No coding or faulty coding - implausible signal - fault currently present - fault would not cause a warning light
Control unit, self test B2710_VTG

What the DIS does is lead you step by step through the diagnostic procedure. So, as I proceeded through the DIS program, after that fault, it indictated that:
"possible causes: coding faulty"
I go to next step, which says the dealer is supposed to
"carry out encoding
DIAGCODE: D2710_VTG00000_90_211"
The next line is "GWCODE" where it gives instructions on wha the warranty code is (GWCODE = warranty code). It gives a goodwill warranty code that the dealer is supposed to enter. I did not carry out the encoding part as I am way too cautious to do that and don't want to screw it up.

Lastly, I went to the "control unit function" of the DIS and looked at the status of my VTG. It stated
"calibration status: not calibrated
coding status: not coded"

So, it looks like the issue is that the VTG control module is not coded. I hope that is the only issue so when I take it to a dealer they can code it and maybe it will be all good! I don't live near a dealer, but may be going to one in a few weeks so hopefully this will solve it. I sure hope i don't need a new transfer case.

Anyone know where this VTG module is located? I couldn't find it's location in Bentley.

[blacksail337]

weird that sounds exactly like what my local independant shop told me to do, said the codes were most likely just being thrown because all my modules and whatnot were'nt running up to date coding, or the same version of coding

they said it would be $450 for the coding cause it takes like 6 to 8 hours and they couldn't garuntee it would solve the problem, so i was hesitant and didn't do it

i think you can roll back updates with the BT tool, but i'd be scared to mess with stuff of that nature too, it'll be really ridiculous if allllll these headaches are from some freaking software issues . . .

i'm gonna mess around this weekend with the BT tool and try to run a direct test or commands on the speed sensor, its listed under brakes/control units on tischer and realoem, i remember you tested yours orangedawg with a volt meter or something right? is it easy to get to?

[orangedawg]

Dang, 6 to 8 hours!? At dealer prices (I don't have a local shop that can do this) it would be over $700! I hope if i have this done, I don't go through all that expense at a dealer just to find out it's a bad transfer case (which I can change out myself).

I tested the speed sensors by pulling the connector at the DSC on the driver's side, under the hood, near the firewall. I put a multimeter on the speed sensors pins and mine came out all good. Here's a link to show you how. Lots of good info on how to check sensors. I think I posted on page 10 what pin-outs to use. The number you get aren't as important as that they are all consistant with each other. Hope this helps!

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...356272&page=10