[nicknrmn9]

Hi All, I've been a long time BMW owner, as well as a long-time lurker here.

I ended up picking up a 2011 335d that came in on trade at work. 69k miles on it at the time, single owner, leased it originally then bought it back as CPO. Long story short he got the dreaded CEL, Service blamed it on CBU, quoted him worst case scenario to the tune of $11k. Long story short, he traded it in and through a series of fortunate(for me) events I ended up getting the car for an insane deal.

Night I picked the car up-



Soon after driving it home the first night I'd determined the thermostat had failed, not allowing it to do a DPF Regen. Replaced the thermostat detailed the engine bay, etc. Took it on a long freeway jaunt, and successfully completed the regen process and it ran great.



However not long after, got codes for Glow Plugs/Controller so I replaced that. While I was in there I did the following:

-AAR EGR Delete
-eBay Swirl Flap Delete w/New Intake Manifold Gaskets
-Carbon Cleaning, as well as soaked the Intake Mani overnight in what can only be described as an insane cocktail of solvents. With minimal scrubbing it came satisfactorily clean.
-CPSP Catless Downpipe(The super cheap one on eBay, can confirm it's decent quality and the fitment is great)
-SCR Delete w/3" Stainless back to the OEM Mufflers-The DEF tank is still in the car.




Yet to do:
-Forge Intercooler Piping and Intercooler.
-H&R Sport Spring/Bilstein B6 Install.

Now that of course left me with a car that immediately went into limp mode. Not ready to spend an additional $1k or so on a tune, a friend and I used a seeed studio CAN-BUS Shield V2 paired with a Elegoo UNO R3 Board with an OBDII Dongle, running a custom script to kill the various errors I had(and limp mode as a result). It would run at ignition ON, as well as every few minutes after engine start in case of any errant recurrences. The latter ended up not being necessary. This let me drive the car untuned without having to deal with plugging the reader in and going through the whole song and dance.



That said, we ended up ordering a KessV2 Clone, removing the DME, and flashing what is arguably a *very* homebrew tune using pointers from "other" tuning forums. We ended up with a car that is running happily, with minimum smoke on full throttle runs, and torque like nothing I've ever experienced.

While we were at it, using the same pointers, built a transmission flash that was based off of a 335i, tweaked to suit the differences we find in the diesels. To flash this custom map I simply bought a flash license from XHP.

Recent dawned the Pilot Super Sports now that the weather is warming up



/novel

[awenthol]

Nice! Extremely clean car. Good work.

[lnxguy]

Wait until you get a real tune on that car.

[hootie26]

Nice, I'm thinking of doing the same, just waiting for my warranty to expire.

[hootie26]

I'm next, can't wait. Nice wheels

[robnitro]

Nick, nice catch! I pmed you about a question how you modified the 335i trans maps to 335d.

[nicknrmn9]

Thanks guys. Just put the Bilsteins on last night, replaced the nasty passenger door panel pull handle(anyone know what causes this? The others are perfectly fine.

This tune will do for now but since the stock intercooler and piping is still on the car, I wasn't ready to do a proper(read; $$$$$) tune just yet.

I responded to your PM robnitro.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by nicknrmn9

Thanks guys. Just put the Bilsteins on last night, replaced the nasty passenger door panel pull handle(anyone know what causes this? The others are perfectly fine.

This tune will do for now but since the stock intercooler and piping is still on the car, I wasn't ready to do a proper(read; $$$$$) tune just yet.

I responded to your PM robnitro.

My drivers door handle doesn't operate sometimes if that's what you're talking about... on days where the temp is below 20 degrees F I'll pull once it unlocks then next pull it's completely "limp" and has no tension on it. So I'd sit in the car 5 mins blast the heat and point the vent on the door handle and keep working it and somehow every time it got tension back in it and it would work flawlessly... not sure why it happens either but it is quite annoying. But it's working now lol.

[nicknrmn9]

Originally Posted by RL18

My drivers door handle doesn't operate sometimes if that's what you're talking about... on days where the temp is below 20 degrees F I'll pull once it unlocks then next pull it's completely "limp" and has no tension on it. So I'd sit in the car 5 mins blast the heat and point the vent on the door handle and keep working it and somehow every time it got tension back in it and it would work flawlessly... not sure why it happens either but it is quite annoying. But it's working now lol.

Not an issue I've encountered luckily.

But, I'm talking about where the inner part of the "pull handle"(where you pull to close the door), not the actual door handle, gets all sticky and gummy. It's impossible to clean it. So the only way to resolve it is purchase a new one, drill out the plastic welds on the old one, and install the new one(requires door panel removal)

[RL18]

Originally Posted by nicknrmn9

Not an issue I've encountered luckily.

But, I'm talking about where the inner part of the "pull handle"(where you pull to close the door), not the actual door handle, gets all sticky and gummy. It's impossible to clean it. So the only way to resolve it is purchase a new one, drill out the plastic welds on the old one, and install the new one(requires door panel removal)

Oh lol