[335BBS]

Originally Posted by Dj_Frost

Hey guys,

Ok, so I have a rough idle issue which I can't figure out, below are the symptoms and what I have had done to it so far with no results:

1) It all started with the SES light on but the car worked perfectly, no issues at all.

2) 2 days before I installed my procede, the car had a rough idle issue which went away after I drove off my parking lot. I used the car some more that day and night, no issues

3) The day before I installed the v5, it did the same thing but this time it took a bit longer for the issue to go away, the car felt it was in limp mode and it didn't go away until I hit 4th gear on the highway about 5 minutes after starting the car. I use the car later that night and no issues

4) Installed the v5 procede, went out to auto tune, no problems, car pulls awesome!

5) The following day I have the same rough idle issue and it takes longer to go away. I have no serial/usb cable so I cant see codes. Later on another start and running out of fuel the rough idle would not go away, went to the gas station to fill the tank and when I started it back at the station, it was fine! So I thought it was dirty injectos... I buy and pour one in with full tank. When the car is fine and I have no rough idle issues I step on it to kinda get the mix of fuel/clean inj product on but now I seem to have lost power, it will start hard and chirp the tires but after 2-4k power goes bye bye and the car actually feels slower than stock. I have rough idle issues again that day.

6) I start trouble shooting cause I am really worried now and get 4 codes from the procede (got the cable now) which show misfire on cyl 1,2,3 and the code for multiple cyl misfire. I stop driving the car

7) I clean the BOV cause I notice it doesnt close properly and is blowing alot of air when I am in idle. BOV is now clean and lubbed but car will still have a rough idle after 10 secs of turning it on. Basically what will happen is that I press the start button, the car starts and it's all fine but about 5-10 seconds after just being there without me touching the pedal, the car will drop to around 500rpm and rough/idle makes noises and the SFS light blink.

8) I swap the coils from 1,2,3 to 4,5,6 and retest, same issue, pull codes and I get misfire on 4,5,6 and multiple cyl so I think awesome! it's the coils (although I did find it quite weird that 3 of them would go at the same time and I think once one goes, it wont work intermittently like my problem showed), so I replaced those 3.

9) Tried again, no dice, same symptoms only that now after I press the start button and wait 5-10 seconds, the car will actually rev UP to abour 1.5-2k and kinda like Fart? for a sec before going back down to the usual 500rpm rough idle, etc

10) Another strange thing is that every single time that the car starts (is fine for the first 10 secs) and starts having the rough idle issue (where 2 or 3 cyls are not working properly), I can tap on the gas and rev a little to lets say 2k and let off and the car will have a regular idle again. If I try to drive it though (only tried in the garage), it will rough idle and run with less cyls again.

I have new spark plugs in there and I'm thinking PCV valve or something that controls the coils (isn't it the cars computer directly) or I dunno?? injectors, hpfp? It just doesnt make sense to me..

Please help guys!

I hate to be this way, but most people here wouldnt have a clue what you were talking about let alone be able to help you. That is why we have Service technicians.

[spiike32]

Originally Posted by Dj_Frost

I'm out of warranty and recall only works for 2yr old cars (2008+ well now 2009+) cars here in Panama

Well, here in the US I believe it is April, 2 2007- October 2008 build dates, I would just bring it in and see if they can goodwill it if your car doesn't qualify. My coworker has a 2007 and he got 3/6 injectors replaced. Never hurt to ask.

[Juiced46]

Recall is a Recall no matter if its in warranty or not. Bring it to the dealer.

Also, can you get me the injector part #s off of the injectors, all of them. I can tell you if they are the affected injectors by the recall. The injector you replaced needs to be calibrated per the ID # on the injector. Every single injector flows slightly different due to the amount of Piezo crystals they have in them. There is a number stamped on the injector just for this calibration. The DIS machine may be able to do this calibration. That is old school BMW hardware, I have never tried it on the DIS machine so I cannot give you accurate info on that. But it wouldnt hurt to look for the injector calibration test plan to see if it has it.

[Dj_Frost]

Originally Posted by spiike32

Well, here in the US I believe it is April, 2 2007- October 2008 build dates, I would just bring it in and see if they can goodwill it if your car doesn't qualify. My coworker has a 2007 and he got 3/6 injectors replaced. Never hurt to ask.

I already asked a friend who works at the dealer and he was the one who told me they do honor recalls but only for 2 years. I'm going to go ask someone else and see but it doesnt help that my car is US Spec and the ones they (BMW Panama) sell down here are euro spec... dammit

Originally Posted by Juiced46

Recall is a Recall no matter if its in warranty or not. Bring it to the dealer.

Also, can you get me the injector part #s off of the injectors, all of them. I can tell you if they are the affected injectors by the recall. The injector you replaced needs to be calibrated per the ID # on the injector. Every single injector flows slightly different due to the amount of Piezo crystals they have in them. There is a number stamped on the injector just for this calibration. The DIS machine may be able to do this calibration. That is old school BMW hardware, I have never tried it on the DIS machine so I cannot give you accurate info on that. But it wouldnt hurt to look for the injector calibration test plan to see if it has it.

Yup! I just checked with my friend today and injector #4 (the one that I replaced) now responds to the injector on/off test so that is a step forward. We also checked and there is a calibration procedure and screen, it showed the steps with pictures and everything, looks like I need to write down 2 different numbers from each injector and assign/match each to its cyl.

Now just gotta wait for Tischer to send me my 5 remaining injectors and fuel filter/regulator.

[Dj_Frost]

Originally Posted by Juiced46

Recall is a Recall no matter if its in warranty or not. Bring it to the dealer.

Also, can you get me the injector part #s off of the injectors, all of them. I can tell you if they are the affected injectors by the recall. The injector you replaced needs to be calibrated per the ID # on the injector. Every single injector flows slightly different due to the amount of Piezo crystals they have in them. There is a number stamped on the injector just for this calibration. The DIS machine may be able to do this calibration. That is old school BMW hardware, I have never tried it on the DIS machine so I cannot give you accurate info on that. But it wouldnt hurt to look for the injector calibration test plan to see if it has it.

1353 7537317 - 10 is the number on all of the injectors except for #4 which I changed to a new one 1353 7585261 - 08

[Dj_Frost]

Just thought I'd update with some things I've just found out.... my car is burning oil if left idle for 5+ mins... and my normal daily operating temp for my oil gauge is 230-240 which is NOT normal from what I saw on a friend's friend us spec 335i which is always around 205-210 and never goes beyond that half point mark.

*EDIT* This can be disregarded. I forgot to update that I investigated and found out that the gauge changed after mid 2007 models so my temp reads just fine at beyond the half point mark.

[Dj_Frost]

I uploaded a video and even though I didnt get the 'burp rev' thing this time (and which it usually does all the time on cold startups), this might help show some of the signs...

*EDIT* New videos clearly showing the *burp* added to main post.

[335iVA]

My 335i (e90) is doing the exact same thing:

- Cold start - long crank (5 - 10 secs)
- Upon start, regular rev, then after about 10 secs, rough between 600 - 800 RPM
- Misfires on Cyls 1, 2 & 3

I think the dealership is the next stop, but just saw this link posted in this thread --

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ighlight=rough

I'm interested to see if this would work for me. Have you tried this? Looks like its definitely worth a shot -- rather than replacing parts that may actually be fine. Everyone says its the injectors / HPFP / LPFP Sensor / Plugs / Carbon Build-up, but what are the chances that a few quick resets would do the trick?

[Dj_Frost]

Due to some tough times with my company and other priorities (plus just being depressed about a half working car) I just now got back to looking at this whole thing and trying to get it fixed and I've been talking to Rob from Vishnu about it quite a bit....

Some updates which I think I haven't posted here were:

Changed spark plugs, nothing
Changed all the injectors, seals, nothing
Changed the in tank fuel filter/regulator, nothing

Next on the list:

Check/Clean VANOS and PCVs

Some other newer videos I took and sent to Rob:

On the above video, I had just cleared all codes (reason why the SES light is gone) and wanted to throw it on purpose. You can clearly see/hear the *burp* I've always talked about and get every single time I start the car. The only difference is that, if I am holding the revs above 1k until I get that *burp* the car won't fail and sound/run like crap. If I don't hold the revs, so basically just turn on the car like you should, what happens is what shows on this video. It wasn't as bad because the car was a bit warm from the drive to my friends but trying to drive it like that would throw the code instantly and be a pain to drive as well. On the next video you can see/hear it much worse.

You can also see the smoke that will appear from time to time when I'm either idle or driving around without the rough conditions. I have found out it doesn't have a pattern at all, its just really intermittent, unless I make the car fail like on the video, there it will usually smoke just like that all the time.

The video above is with the A/C on the car will 100% always fail really bad, just like the video shows.

Originally Posted by 335iVA

...
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ighlight=rough

I'm interested to see if this would work for me. Have you tried this? Looks like its definitely worth a shot -- rather than replacing parts that may actually be fine. Everyone says its the injectors / HPFP / LPFP Sensor / Plugs / Carbon Build-up, but what are the chances that a few quick resets would do the trick?

Yeah, adaptations reset was one of the things my buddy tried and did with his tool (DIS) which we hooked up my car to.

[Dj_Frost]

Guess I'd update even though I've kind of lost hope...... (at least Rob is still helping me with ideas). We'll see what happens, hope it's not the DME that's dead cause the dealership are retards and don't want to look at my car since I brought it from overseas

Replaced HPFP
Replaced plugs again
Replaced rear o2s (so all 4 are now new)
Replaced valve cover (for the PCV valve)
Cleaned out both VANOS sensors
Cleaned out the tmap sensor on the charge pipe.

Waiting on the other PCV valve to arrive, the one that connected to the valve cover and going to replaced the VANOS sensors with new ones to see.

[galahad05]

I see no one has mentioned this in here, yet.
Check to see if you have carbon fouling on your intake paths, in particular your intake valves.


FYI: I consider this (carbon fouling) the bane of my existence. Usually not too much of a problem on stock N54/N55s, but if you're boosted, I think the problem gets magnified.

[galahad05]

Also, no one mentioned the throttle valve and throttle valve position sensor.
Something wrong there will throw off the air/fuel mixture--sometimes intermittently (i.e. the sensor jumps or drifts in its readings back to the engine computer).

[Dj_Frost]

Uhmmm yeah.... so almost 2yrs later and a shitload of time and money wasted, it looks like the shop that installed my DPs got two of the o2 sensors (the upper ones I believe) incorrectly connected.

So they were conflicting with the other 2 and had the DME going crazy, injecting more fuel and with time caused gasoline to get into the oil/intake/exhaust system and well those who have read the thread now the rest.

*sigh*


So yeah, got the car back after 3months @ the only shop that didn't give up on my car. I no longer have that startup *burp* thing, it is no longer burning oil (no smoke) and seems to have its stockish power. They told me to leave the DPs and Procede out for about 2-3 weeks so I can test it and make sure no other codes are thrown, etc. Then take it back, they'll put in the DPs and test and I'll put in the procede and if all goes well................. finally.

[Dj_Frost]

..............and I still have the SES light on.............


called the mech and he said it wasn't on when he final tested the car and that sometimes it's the gasoline quality (in Panama it's shit btw) that affects it. I think thats BS but oh well, told me to pass by when I could so he could check it out.








maybe I should just light up this car on fire... grr